Hypoallergenic Dogs

When we talk about hypoallergenic dogs, we mean that they have a less or reduced tendency to cause allergies or allergic reaction among allergy sufferers.

It has been estimated that about 10% of the US population is allergic to animals (American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology). Symptoms of the reactions can range from watery eyes to dangerous asthma attacks.

The problem is not with the pet's hair. It is the dander, or microscopic scales of dead skin (similar to, but much smaller than the dandruff on the human scalp) which pets are constantly shedding that is the cause. They are so tiny that you seldom know that they are circulating in the air or laying on the furniture and carpets because they are so small.

Here is a list of Hypoallergenic Dogs. If I have missed any I do apologize.

American Hairless Terrier
Basenji
Border Terrier
Cairn Terrier
Chinese Crested (hairless)
Havanese
Kerry Blue Terrier
Maltese
Miniature Schnauzer
Portuguese Water Dog
Shih-Tzu
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
Spanish Water Dog
Standard Poodle
Standard Schnauzer
Tibetan Terrier
Toy Poodle
West Highland White Terrier
Wirehaired Fox Terrier
Yorkshire Terrier

Please remember that no dog is 100% hypoallergenic and also that allergic sufferers react differently to each separate breed of dog.

For Westhighland Terriers owners, such as myself, the news is good. They are considered good for allergy sufferers, with a relatively low dander (ranked number 7). However you need to be reminded that one person's allergies may vary greatly from another person. It is always advisable to visit the home of the dog you wish to have, before you bring it home. I hope that you found this article of use to you

Good health and happiness

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

Jeff Cuckson
A Fellow Westies Lover
<a href="mailto:webmaster@madaboutwesties.com">webmaster@madaboutwesties.com</a>

Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest, Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie You Have Ever Dreamed Of! Then Visit NOW! <a target="_new" href="http://www.madaboutwesties.com">http://www.madaboutwesties.com</a>

How To Grow Daphnia For The Aquarium

The benefits of feeding live food to fish in a community tank are many: live food will improve vigor and color, and more closely resemble the food found in the fish's natural habitat. Live food is easily obtained.

Some drawbacks include the transmission of diseases or parasites to the aquarium, it is time consuming to maintain the cultures, and a lot of space needs to be devoted to raising live foods. The cost of equipment and supplies needed to maintain cultures is also a consideration for the beginner.

In this article I will discuss how to raise Daphnia. This article will be part of an on-going series on live foods. You can find many more related articles at http://www.kingdiscus.com.

Daphnia belong to a group known as the Daphniidae, and are close relatives of the freshwater shrimp, and the brine shrimp (Artemia). Their generic name is generally referred to as "water flea." This common name is derived from the jerky movements of Daphnia in the water. The over 150 different species can be found in North America, with a similar amount of species growing in Europe. Some of these species find common ground on both continents.

Daphnia are a small crustacean, and are great to use as a fresh food because they will exist in the tank water until eaten by the fish. Daphnia can also be sterilized if it is felt necessary by placing in a 5% solution of Clorox for 3 to 5 minutes. Very few micro-organisms can survive this. Be sure, however, to rinse them thoroughly before feeding!

Daphnia can be raised both indoors and outside. Many people raise daphnia in a small children's wading pool. A more controlled environment, however, is done indoors, and can be done year round if one lives in northern climes. This can be as simple as a couple of two liter bottles, to a 20 gallon tub purchased from a store such as Menard's. The ideal situation is to have as much oxygenated surface area as possible, so if there is room for a larger container, by all means use it. A shallower environment suits daphnia best for prolific growth.

Setting up the environment for daphnia is quite simple. Many methods are used for collecting the water to use for the culture. The best advice I have heard is from Joe F. of Circle City Aquarium Club in Indianapolis, IN. He gave a presentation at the August meeting of Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, and recommends using tank water saved from a tank change. Joe has been raising live foods for a long time, and has had good success. His video presentation was top notch.

PH levels for successful Daphnia cultures should be in the range of 6-8, and should be more alkaline than acidic. If raised outdoors, no aeration is needed. If raised indoors, aeration should be adjusted to produce large bubbles. Small bubbles in the daphnia culture will cause the bubbles to become lodged in the carapace of the culture, and they will die.

Water temperatures for Daphnia magna are not a high requirement, but the optimal temperature should be in the 64-72 degree range. they are very tolerant to changes in temperature, and can withstand fluctuations down to freezing. In fact, Daphnia can be frozen and kept in the freezer, and then revived when needed. Moina withstand a higher fluctuation in temperature than do D. magna.

Lighting should be in the neighborhood of eight or more hours light per day and light intensity equal to or greater than 850 lux. A simple light and a timer can accomplish this indoors.

Feeding the Daphnia is where most aquarists fail. Daphnia feed on dissolved organic matter, yeast, various groups of bacteria, microalgae, and detritus, or mulm. Organic fertilizers, such as fresh cow manure. It is not recommended by our breeder, though, because of the antibiotics and supplements fed to dairy and beef cattle. A much better mixture is a combination of one tablespoon each of spirulina, soy flour, and active dry yeast, added to a pint of water. This mixture should be added so that the water is cloudy, but you are able to see the bottom clearly, and observe the Daphnia swimming in the culture. This mixture should be added carefully every two or three days, being careful not to over feed. At this time, you should see an abundance of Daphnia, and they can be harvested to feed your fish.

Harvesting is quite simple - simply use a small aquarium net, observing that the smaller Daphnia fall through the netting to grow further. In this way, the adults are harvested, and can be fed to your fish. The younger Daphnia can go on to produce still more fish food. Harvested Daphnia can be kept in the refrigerator for several days in clean water.

Daphnia are high in protein, and a very good diet for tropical fish. Some aquarists feed them exclusively. They provide up to 70% protein to your tropical fish, and are an excellent source of live food for the aquarium.

Much can be written on the culturing of Daphnia. This guide is only meant to help the beginner to live foods to establish a colony, and feed live food high in protein to their fish. A series of article on live foods is forthcoming, and can be viewed at http://www.kingdiscus.com.

Alden Smith is a published author, and has been marketing on the internet for 7 years. Read more articles at his website, <a target="_new" href="http://www.kingdiscus.com">King Discus</a>, an active gathering place for discus breeders and lovers of discus fish. His wife Betsy is the administrator of <a target="_new" href="http://www.allthebestrecipes.com">All The Best Recipes</a> a site rich in free online recipes and cookbooks.

Is He Chasing His Tail? What You Always Wanted To Know About Fleas

My dog has fleas. That one statement is enough to make any visitor to my house run back down the walk to their car.

If you own a pet it's one of those unwritten facts that they will, at one time or another, have fleas. One of the not-so-fun jobs of pet ownership is dealing with an infestation or working to avoid one.

To cope effectively with fleas you should have an understanding of their habits and life cycles. I realize that doesn't sound like fun, sitting-in-front-of-the-fire reading material, but knowing what you're up against is winning half the battle before it starts. So here's the low down on fleas.

Adult flea - lives on the host animal (dog or cat), where the female lays her eggs.

Egg - flea eggs are laid on the animal but fall off into the bedding, carpeting, and elsewhere in the animal's home and hatch into larvae within a few days (depending on heat & humidity).

Larva - flea larvae feed on organic material in the environment and on the droppings from adult fleas. I know it's gross.

As the larvae feed on adult flea droppings, they are found in highest numbers in areas where flea-infested animals spend much of their time.

Pupa - after 5-11 days, the larvae produce a cocoon in which they complete their development. During this stage of their life cycle, fleas are resistant to flea sprays, shampoos, medications,etc.

In ideal conditions, adult fleas hatch from their cocoon in as little as 5 days, although they can live in the cocoon for up to 5 months.

Hatching is brought on by vibration, physical pressure, heat, and air; in other words, the your dog walks in the room, sits down and BAMM.

After hatching, the adult flea finds an animal and within 2 days the female flea begins producing eggs. Fleas can continue to produce eggs for up to 100 days and believe it or not, a single flea can produce thousands of eggs.

I know the whole concept of fleas and their life cycle is gross and personally if I wasn't confronted with our three dogs in constant agony looking at me with those big, sad eyes .. well I'd probably ignore the whole flea thing.

What you do now that you're armed with all this terrific flea knowledge is:

1. Control the fleas on your pet - keep them groomed and use shampoos made for flea control. There are flea medicines that we use in my house. Personally, I prefer "Frontline" because it is a gel and I just rub a little dab at the nape of their neck (do dogs have a nape?) and the fleas are ousted for thirty days or so. You can also get pills like "Program" that control the fleas by sterilizing any female flea that bites your dog.

2. Keep the pet bedding flea-free. This is probably what I had the most trouble with because I have three dogs and they don't sleep in actual beds. But, if you can keep the fleas off the bedding, blankets, carpeting or whatever area they stake-out as their own space, your battle is much easier. Some people even studied fleas and they decided that only about 5% of the adult flea population actually live on your dog. That means the other 95% plus are living either outdoors or in the bedding, carpeting and such.

Don't give up. If you can keep the fleas off your pet or at least under control AND if you are vigilant with the whole bedding issue then fleas won't control your life or that of your dog.

The author of this article, Joanne Robbins is an internet publisher of many sites including <a target="_new" href="http://www.jrsbigdog.com">http://www.jrsbigdog.com</a> where you can find more information about fleas, flea control, selecting the proper pet for your household plus additional health topics. Also read her Blog at <a target="_new" href="http://www.jrsmarketplace.blogspot.com">http://www.jrsmarketplace.blogspot.com</a>

Raw Feed? Are You Joking?

Let's think about this for a minute: God did not design our animals to eat pre-packaged, kibble or pellet-like food. In the wild, dogs don't tell each other, "Hey, I'm hungry, let's go to the pet food store and grab us some lunch." As if!

No, together, they go out and hunt down their food, then dig right in while it's still warm. Sorry about the graphic image, but well, that's nature for you! They also do not stoke up a campfire and sit around singing Kum Bi Ya while the meat gets cooked. Nope they just have at it in the natural raw form.

Now you might be thinking, "Yeah but that's wild animals, not our sweet kitties and dogs." Think again. They are and will always be carnivores. They need raw meat and bones to be healthy with a fully supported immune system. Also the raw, non-weight bearing bones such as the shoulders and backs give dogs and cats strong, clean white teeth eliminating the need for dentals done under anesthesia at a veterinarian's office, something that is not only much riskier but much more expensive than feeding your dogs and cats what they were designed to eat: meat.

Your other pets such as horses, guinea pigs, birds and rabbits also need natural raw food in order to thrive. They do not forage for pellets, let me tell you. Many birds are omnivorous so they'll eat fruits, veggies and meat. While our other furry and feathered friends need to eat fresh fruits and vegetables.

Kim Christopher states, "Proper diet is among the more important considerations in the health maintenance of your pet and essential in the management of many diseases. To feed correctly, a knowledge of dietary nutrients and their availability is important."

And Dr. Russell Swift,"Carbohydrates are not needed by dogs(or cats). Carnivores cannot maintain long term production of the quantity of amylase enzyme necessary to properly digest and utilize the carbohydrates. In addition, the proteins in grains are less digestive than animal proteins. As a result, the immune system becomes irritated and weakened by the invasion of foreign, non-nutritive protein and carbohydrate particles."

So just what do you think most packaged pet foods commonly know as premium kibble contain? Grains. Byproducts. Toxic preservatives.

The question would then arise, if pet food manufacturers know this (they must because they're in business to know) why are these things added to our pet food and why are we told that these packaged foods are so good? Even our mainstream veterinarians are selling these foods to us.

Good questions. Part of the reason is because it's cheaper to use grains and byproducts. Byproducts can be anything we'd normally throw out such as beaks, feathers, feet/hooves, euthanized animals, road kill, you name it. It all gets rendered and added into our packaged pet foods.

Oh but it gets better. These foods are then baked. Here is what Dr. Betty Lewis stated on her website, "What's wrong with commercial foods? The number one item which makes commercial foods inappropriate for pets is that these foods are cooked. No one has ever reported seeing wild animals routinely barbecuing their meals! Raising the temperature of food above 118?F destroys all the enzymes and many of the nutrients."

To top it all off, in order to be able to say that these commercial foods have all the needed nutrients in them, they SPRAY on the nutrients. To get more details on this pick up the book by Ann Martin, Foods Pets Die For.

One of the best things you can do if you're confused about how to get started feeding your pets a natural diet is to first find a holistic veterinarian in your area and then find out what is appropriate for your pet. Homeopathic and holistic vets really adhere and promote the complete natural lifestyle for your pets and can help you put together a diet that will give your pet what he/she needs for full nutritional support.

All the problems we're seeing in our pets: allergies, skin disorders, cancer, diabetes, feather plucking, pulling out furr, etc., can almost alway be attributed to poor nutrition AND to food allergies. Their immune systems are compromised because they are not getting enough nutrition to support themselves which then weakens their immune system. Then we see disease. If the immune system is not supported properly, disease gets a front door welcome into your pets bodies.

So if you want to start seeing your pets live healthier, longer lives and also greatly reduce your vet bills, then switch to a natural, raw food diet. Your pets will love you for it!

References:
http://home.earthlink.net/~pawsreflect/nutrition.html
http://www.raot.org/information/nutrition.htm

About the Author:
Kim Bloomer is a natural pet care educator helping pet owners learn to care for their pets through natural, holistic means. Disease prevention is her goal to help pet owners lower their pet care costs and extend the lives of their pets. Visit her website <a target="_new" href="http://www.aspenbloompetcare.com">Aspenbloom Pet Care</a> and her dog's blog barkin' about natural pet care from a canine perspective <a target="_new" href="http://www.bark-n-blog.com">Bark 'N' Blog</a>

Look for Kim's new book on natural dog health with Dr. Jill Elliot, DVM due for release spring 2006.

How to Feed and Care for Orphaned Kittens

Over the last 15 years, I have raised nine orphaned kittens. Four of them were two weeks old when their mother was killed; three others were only hours old when their mother died; two more kittens fell out of the nest in our barn when they were only a day old.

Raising motherless kittens is not a difficult process, but it does require patience, time and plenty of TLC.

Here are some tips to help you raise your orphaned kittens:

1. Make a nest.

Normally, a mother cat spends many hours a day in the nest with her kittens, which helps her babies stay warm. Keeping the kittens warm is important because if they're not warm enough, they won't want to eat, and in fact, all of their bodily functions will slow down.

To keep your orphaned kittens warm, make a nest in a small box and line it with towels or old t-shirts or sweatshirts to help the babies conserve their body heat. Put a towel over the box to keep out the light. Female cats choose nests that are dark. If you don't have a heat lamp, use a small 40-watt desk lamp and place it several feet above the box to help keep the kittens warm.

If the box is big enough, you can also use a jug or another large container filled with hot water to keep the babies warm. Place the jug in the box and then make a nest with towels beside it. Refill the jug when it cools off. You can use a quart jar as a "hot water bottle" too except that a quart jar cools off very quickly.

2. Use an eyedropper or a syringe to feed the kittens.

The first time I raised orphaned kittens, I discovered that the small nursing bottles available at vet clinics were too big. The kittens couldn't get their mouths around the nipples. So, at first, for newborn kittens, I used an eyedropper. As the kittens grew bigger, a syringe worked very well, the kind of syringe for giving injections (without the needle of course!). I started out with the 3 cc size and used larger syringes when the kittens grew bigger. The tip of a syringe is about the size of a cat's nipple, and my kittens eventually sucked hard enough on the end of the syringe to draw the plunger down by themselves. Check with your vet clinic to see if any used syringes are available or to see if you can buy new syringes from the clinic.

A word of caution: Whether you're feeding with an eyedropper or a syringe, be careful to give only a few drops at a time. My veterinarian told me that if the kittens were given too much formula at once (more than they could swallow), they might inhale it. Inhaling formula will make your kittens much more susceptible to pneumonia.

Along the way, I have also discovered that it is best to feed the kittens as much as they want to eat. They will settle down and sleep until the next feeding if they are getting enough to eat. Tiny kittens will start out taking maybe 1 CC at a time. As they grow bigger, they will eat around 12 CCs at a time (usually in several different helpings).

Kittens learn very quickly that food comes from the syringe you hold in your hand. If you are having trouble getting them to take the formula from the syringe, let nuzzle in the palm of your hand for a few seconds or let them suck on your fingers. Then introduce the syringe and let them suck on it while you very slowly press the plunger down.

3. Feed the kittens KMR or kitty formula that you have mixed yourself.

KMR, the canned cat milk replacer, is available at most vet clinics in either a premixed or dry form. It is specifically formulated for kittens to provide all the nutrients they need. Follow the directions on the label. The amount to feed is determined by body weight. My newborn kittens weighed three ounces each, and for the first several days, they only needed a half an eyedropper of KMR at a time.

My vet clinic also gave me a recipe for "kitten formula." After the first can of KMR, this is what all of my kittens have been raised on.

Here is the recipe for Kitten Formula

1 cup whole milk

1 tablespoon white corn syrup

1 egg yolk

a pinch of salt

Mix in a blender and mix it up far enough in advance so the bubbles will have time to dissipate.

Warm over medium heat. Heat the formula so it feels slightly warm to the touch. All of my kittens have refused to swallow the formula if it was too cold or too warm. The same was true for KMR.

4. Feed your kittens on a regular schedule three times a day.

Mother cats nurse their kittens every couple of hours. The veterinarian I consulted cautioned me not to feed them that often. "They won't eat well and you'll get frustrated and they'll get frustrated and it will be harder on everybody," he said. He was right. Feeding the kittens three times per day worked out very well.

5. Groom your kittens with a warm, wet washcloth and help them to empty their bladders and their bowels.

Young kittens are unable to empty their bladders or move their bowels, so you'll have to help them. Use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe under their tails until they have emptied their bladders and/or moved their bowels. Be prepared to use as many as four washcloths for each kitten. If they only have to empty their bladders, you won't need that many. If they have to empty their bowels, look out -- it could get messy! Smaller washcloths that you can wring out with one hand while you hold onto a squirming kitten with the other work best. I put the washcloths in a pail of warm water and put the pail where I can reach it easily.

Young kittens also do not know how to groom themselves, and after a day or two of eating kitten formula, they become sticky from the formula that inevitably dribbles down their chins. From time to time, use a warm, wet washcloth to wipe off the formula, but be careful not to get the kittens TOO wet or it will be hard for them to stay warm.

6. Provide a litter pan when they're four weeks old.

Cats have a strong instinct to use material that they can scratch around in when they have to empty their bladders and move their bowels. By the time the kittens are four weeks old, they will already be thinking in this direction and providing them with a litter pan will help them get the idea. You might still have to assist them with a washcloth for a while, but it won't be long before they are using the litter pan.

Kitty litter in an aluminum pie plate works well to start out. As the kittens grow bigger, use a bigger container for a litter box.

7. Start feeding solid food when the kittens are about six weeks old.

Kittens that are raised by their mothers probably will start eating sooner than six weeks, but you will be able to provide more milk than their mothers would have available.

When your kittens have gotten their teeth, you can begin feeding them solid food. If you want to feed dry food, a good quality kitten chow will work fine. Kitten chow has all of the nutrients and protein that they need to keep growing. Kitten chow also is made in tiny kitten-bite-sized pieces. To tempt their appetites and to give them a "treat," you can also try a little canned kitty food. Be sure to provide fresh water for your kittens to drink, as well. And until the kittens are eating solid food regularly, supplement their caloric intake with kitten formula. By this time, you won't have to feed them with a syringe. You can put the formula into a small saucer, and once they discover where it is and what it is, they will drink by themselves.

8. Be prepared to be surprised and amazed.

Kittens grow very quickly, and on some days, you will think they are growing right before your very eyes.

Kittens get their eyes open when they're about 10 days old.

They will start purring when they are as young as 6 days old.

Kittens will start other "kitty behaviors" such as shaking their heads, attempting to groom and lifting a hind food to scratch behind their ears when they are between two to three weeks old.

Young kittens will sometimes get the hiccups (!) while you are feeding them.

Young kittens are like baby humans, in a way. Their days consist of eating, sleeping and emptying their bowels and bladders. After the kittens have gotten enough to eat and have had their bodily functions taken care of, when you put them back in the "nest," they will sleep or rest quietly until you are ready to feed them again. If they are restless and crying and meowing, they might need a little more to eat, or they might have to empty their bladders or move their bowels, or they might feel cold.

As the kittens grow older, they will be awake for longer periods of time and will eventually start playing with each other.

By the time the kittens are four weeks old, you will most likely have to move them into a bigger box, if not sooner, because the first one will be too small and they will know how to get out on their own!

If you have any questions concerning the raising of orphaned kittens, you can e-mail me at <a href="mailto:bigpines@ruralroute2.com">bigpines@ruralroute2.com</a>

*************

? 2004 LeAnn R. Ralph

About The Author

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books: *Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)* (trade paperback) and *Preserve Your Family History (A Step-by-Step Guide for Writing Oral Histories)* (e-book; 66 pages). To read sample chapters and to sign up for the FREE! monthly newsletter, Rural Route 2 News & Updates, visit - <a href="http://ruralroute2.com" target="_new">http://ruralroute2.com</a>

Sugar Gliders: Tiny Acrobats

In the last decade or so, the popularity of sugar gliders as pets has grown considerably. The small size of these furry acrobats, their personalities, their plush fur, their large eyes, their agility and their ability to bond closely with humans have attracted legions of new sugar glider devotees.

What is a sugar glider and where did they originally come from? Sugar gliders are small marsupials and members of the possum family. They are found in Australia, Tasmania, Indonesia, and New Guinea. Their scientific name is Petaurus breviceps. Most sugar gliders these days are captive-bred and not wild-caught.

Like their larger marsupial cousins, kangaroos, sugar gliders have a pouch where their infants grow and develop. Their young are called "joeys," as are the young of kangaroos. You may come across the term OOP while researching sugar gliders on the internet. OOP means "out-of-pouch" and it indicates how long the joey has been completely out of his mother's pouch. Joeys are ready to go to a new home at approximately 8 weeks OOP.

Sugar gliders are approximately chipmunk-sized, measuring about 9 to 12 inches long (including their long tail), and they weigh about 3 to 6 ounces as adults. Their normal color is steel gray to brownish with a black stripe down the back, but selective breeding in captivity has brought out other color variations, including albinos. In captivity, they can live as long as 15 years, although 8 to 12 years is more usual.

One of the most distinguishing features of sugar gliders is a thin membrane, called a patagium, that stretches between their front and rear legs, much like the more familiar flying squirrels of North America. This is what allows them to glide from tree to tree. When they glide, the skin spreads out, making sugar gliders look like furry kites! When the sugar glider is sitting, the patagium looks like ruffled furry skin, shaped somewhat like the edge of lasagna noodles.

Their tail is not prehensile, unlike their more familiar American opossum cousins. That means that sugar gliders cannot grasp, grip and hang from their tails. Instead, the tail is used as a balancing and stabilizing tool, especially while gliding.

Sugar gliders are nocturnal, which means they are active at night. They have very large (relative to their size) eyes, which help them see at night. They also have large ears, an obvious benefit to an animal who is both preyed-upon and a predator. Those big ears allow them to hear even the smallest sound.

Sugar gliders have fixed teeth, incisors, molars, and premolars. You should not trim your sugar glider's teeth. Unlike some species, such as guinea pigs, their teeth do not continue to grow once mature. If a tooth falls out, it is not replaced. Wild gliders chew on branches and in the process, clean their teeth. Gliders in cages will also chew on branches.

Sugar gliders have 5 toes on their front feet. Each toe ends with a very sharp claw that helps them land when they glide. Those claws also make gliders very agile climbers. Their hind feet also have 5 toes, but one of them is an enlarged, clawless opposable toe. An opposable toe means that they can use that toe to grip things, much as humans' opposable thumbs allow us to do the same.

Why are they called "sugar gliders"? In the wild, sugar gliders eat, as part of their diet, manna (a crusty sugar left where sap flowed from a tree trunk or branch) and honeydew (an excess sugar produced by sap-sucking insects). In captivity, sugar gliders have a fondness for sweet foods. They will eat too many sweets if allowed, so sweet foods must be rationed.

In the wild, sugar gliders nest in holes of trees in colonies of 7 to 15 members and have been observed gliding as far as 300 feet! The ability to glide is one of the most amazing features of sugar gliders, and one of the things that makes them such special pets. Teaching your sugar glider to glide to you is very rewarding!

Sugar gliders are social animals, which means they live in groups. They get along with and love the company other sugar gliders, and many sugar glider owners choose to have more than one glider. It is their social nature that allows them to develop strong bonds with their human owners. But it is also that social nature that creates their need for attention from their owners. Sugar gliders are not the kind of pet that can be left for long periods of time without any attention from their owners. The more time you spend with your sugar glider, the more he will become bonded with you.

Many sugar glider owners bond with their new gliders by carrying them around in a bonding pouch for several hours a day while the glider sleeps. Sugar gliders are sometimes called "pocket pets" because they will often curl up in your pocket and go to sleep!

Diet and housing are perhaps the two most important factors in deciding whether a sugar glider is the right pet for you. Sugar gliders require a varied diet consisting of a protein source (meat, insects, etc.), a fruit and/or vegetable source, and a supplement of calcium. There are commercial sugar glider dry and soft-pellet foods available, but it is not recommended that you feed your sugar glider a diet consisting solely of these commercial foods. Sugar gliders require fresh food sources in addition to any commercial food. Calcium is also crucial to their diet, and there are a number of products on the market that will allow you to easily add calcium to your sugar glider's diet.

Sugar gliders require as tall a cage as possible. They feel safer up high because they are normally tree-dwellers. 30 inches tall is usually the bare minimum for a sugar glider cage, but most breeders and sugar glider experts recommend cages 4 feet tall or higher. Many sugar glider owners buy flight cages designed for finches and other small birds. The flight cages are tall enough and roomy enough for a sugar glider. It is also recommended that sugar glider owners permit their gliders supervised play time in a glider-safe room for at least several hours a day.

Although sugar gliders are loving, affectionate and adorable, it is recommended that an adult closely supervise any young children around sugar gliders.

The cost of a sugar glider is approximately $150 to $250. If the glider must be shipped to you via airplane, there will be an additional cost. Certain desirable color variations can raise the price of a sugar glider considerably.

Miles Fowler is the author of Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide , a comprehensive book for both novice and experienced sugar glider owners. Learn more at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.sugargliderauthority.com/">http://www.sugargliderauthority.com</a>

Lets Get Clear On Proper Dog Care

Whether you're a new dog owner or have had dogs around you for many years, learning about proper dog care is essential if you're to give your dog the greatest possible chance to enjoy a long and healthy life. The most basic area of dog care is feeding. Unfortunately, many dog owners believe that as long as their dog is being given enough food, everything's ok.

Too many dogs suffer from brittle bones, bad teeth and joint problems due to being fed the wrong kind of food and therefore not receiving the nutrients that are necessary for them to grow and maintain healthy bones, muscles and teeth. Foods that contain artificial colorants and preservatives often lead to allergies developing and feeding a dog on raw meat alone simply won't cover his daily calcium needs. A dry food that's specially formulated to cover the nutritional needs of your dog depending on his age and level of activity is always the best choice. Cheap foods may seem like a good alternative but are often the most expensive choice in the long run. Consider that the dog will generally need more of the cheaper varieties as much of what's in these foods is 'padding' and that the padding will just lead to him having more bowel movements than would otherwise be necessary. Grooming is an important area of your dog's care.

All dogs, regardless of their coat type, should be groomed at least once a week. Obviously, some breeds will need daily grooming but even flat coated breeds, like Rottweilers and Labradors should be given weekly grooming sessions. During the grooming session, utilize the time to check for any other health problems that may be affecting your dog. His skin should be checked for signs of sores or dryness; his ears should be checked for inflammation or pus; his legs and tail should be checked for any damage; and his body should be checked for unexpected lumps and bumps. If fleas or ticks are found on the body, these should be treated immediately. Ticks can be removed by covering the body in Vaseline so that the tick comes to the surface to breath; fleas can be dealt with by using special preparations available from your local pet shop or veterinary surgery.

Regular exercise is, of course, important to your dog who should be walked at least once a day, preferably twice. Don't just stick to roads as your dog will enjoy being able to run and play, and vary your route so that he doesn't become bored by his exercise. Get to know your dog's routines. That way, if you notice any ongoing changes you'll be able to contact your vet for advice. It's always better to make one call too many than to ignore a problem because they rarely disappear without treatment.

Copyright2005 Aki Desorcy Aki Desorcy is the Author of <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-treats-n-dog-care-tips.com">http://www.dog-treats-n-dog-care-tips.com</a> Visit Today And Get A Free fun ebook from Aki. You may use this article as long as the resource box is not removed And the back link is made live on your site.

Are Your Fish Sick?

Keeping a fish tank is a wonderful and relaxing hobby, but it can turn stressful if your fish start to die off. The most common cause of fish disease is poor water quality so it is vital that you perform regular maintenance on the tank, making sure you do a partial water change periodically and clean out any waste or uneaten food so it does not decay and poison the water.

Many fish disease can be halted if you provide treatment as soon as you see any signs of your fish being sick. Therefore, it is important that you monitor your fish each day to see if there are any signs of illness.

Some common symptoms of disease are listed below.

White dots ? sometimes fuzzy looking, almost like grains of salt on your fish. This disease is called Ichthyophthirius), or simply Ich. It is a rather common disease and is caused by poor water quality or can effect your fish when it's immune system is not functioning up to par due to stress. It can be treated easily if you catch it in time. There is a special solution you can buy at the pet store to medicate your tank and, hopefully, get rid of this problem.

Gray patches on the skin, looks cottony and can be around the gills. This is a fungus also caused by excess fish waste and food decaying in the bottom of the tank. You can buy treatment for it and it should clear up easily unless you have let it go too far. In the future remember to clean the tank each week so you do not have a reoccurrence.

If your fish seem like they are gasping for air, this could be simply due to lack of oxygen in the water and not necessarily a disease. You could add an airstone to see if that helps the problem. Make sure you do not overcrowd the tank with too many fish.

If you see your fish scraping itself agains the bottom of the tank or the decorations, it's possible that he has a parasite called Flukes. These attack the gills and skin and are rather difficult to get rid of once your tank is infected. Again, poor water quality will make this much worse. They do sell medication for the tank and you may be able to clear it up if you treat the tank at the first sign of trouble.

Rotting fins are sometimes seen if the fish is under stress and also if the water quality is substandard. It is a bacteria that is attacking the fins and you must treat the tank at the first sign of this problem. If possible, isolate the affected fish to another tank to prevent the bacteria from spreading.

To insure that you always have healthy fish, you should keep the tank clean and religiously perform partial water changes. This will not only keep your fish happy but will make for a better looking tank as well!

Lee Dobbins is a pet lover and owner of <a href="http://www.fish-tank-guide.com" target="_blank">Fish Tank Guide.com</a> where you can learn to setup your freshwater aquarium. Visit the site and learn more about <a href="http://www.fish-tank-guide.com/fish-disease.html" target="_blank">fish disease</a>.

Is Your Dog In Pain Without You Realising?

A dog that is feeling pain can often be highly unpredictable. When you handle a dog in that you suspect to be in pain, you should always proceed with great care.

If your dog has been involved in an accident, he may be badly affected by shock as well as pain. Even the most laid back dog may bite under these circumstances.

Traffic Accidents.

If he has the misfortune to be involved in an accident, always bear in mind that he will be in shock and distressed. It is important to consider this when handling him to avoid being bitten.

?If he runs away, try to catch him, but do not chase after it if possible. Once the dog is distressed, avoid crowding around him. Instead, crouch down and speak soothingly to him in a quiet voice to reassure him. You must not give him any reason to panic.

?See if he will allow you to stroke his head, and then gently take hold of his collar, talking in a soft voice throughout. If you startle him, then he's likely to react aggressively.

?He may be trembling as the result of shock and possibly the pain of any underlying injury. This is quite normal.

?Do not try to examine him at the roadside. Instead, take him to the local vet's surgery, so that he can be thoroughly examined. Lift him up very carefully, in case he reacts aggressively.

?If he's not wearing a collar, loop a tie or even a pair of tights to form a temporary lead. Dogs that appear seemingly unhurt may be masking serious injuries.

Recognising Pain.

Dogs are relatively stoic in terms of dealing with pain: pain would have left their ancestors vulnerable to attack, so suffering in silence may be instinctive behaviour for him.

It's always important to observe him if he appears to be in pain as closely as possible to try to locate the source of the discomfort.

If he pays particular attention to one area of his body by licking or scratching at it, you should consult you vet.

Other signs of pain to be aware of include limping, excessive panting, aggression when touched, and changes in behaviour with no apparent cause.

Arthritis is common in older dogs and you may have to watch for subtle changes over time such as reluctant to go for a walk, and any difficulties getting up from a lying position.

Amy Howells is the owner of a website dedicated to teaching you the short-cuts to <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-owner.net">dog training</a>.

You can also sign up to a free e-course and discover the astonishing short-cut secrets to <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-owner.net">dog obedience training</a>

Is Pet Insurance Worth It?

Many pet owners often wonder if it's worth it to purchase pet insurance. The way I see it, there are two main considerations, your opinion when it comes to risk-taking and the expected health of your pet.

Are you a risk-taker or are you conservative? If you are a risk-taker when it comes to insurance and would be okay covering any health-related costs yourself, you shouldn't bother getting pet insurance. Right or wrong, this is what most pet owners do. However, if you are conservative, and want the peace of mind knowing that most major health costs you incur for your pet would be covered, pet insurance might be right for you!

The second consideration is the expected health of your pet. Of course, it's impossible to predict with any level of precision how healthy your pet will be, but if you have carefully researched the lineage of your puppy, kitten or foal, and have sound information about the health of the lines, then that's valuable information for you to use when making this decision.

Next, you might be wondering how pet insurance works. It's pretty simple. You'd pay a monthly insurance premium for your pet, which could be as low as $10 per month (but usually higher). Some plans cover routine care as well as accidents and illnesses, while others only cover accidents and illnesses (the later would be cheaper). When your pet receives veterinary care, you'd submit the bill to the insurance company for reimbursement. Based on the plan you purchase, you'd be reimbursed a percentage of the total cost minus any deductible. Not every procedure is covered, so check out your policy carefully.

With the rising costs of pet healthcare and with the extremes that many of us would go to for our pets, pet insurance is becoming very popular with pet owners.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.thepetman.com">http://www.thepetman.com</a>

Toby ? My Whirling Twirling Sheltie

Five years ago this August a funny little puppy came to live in our home.

He was tiny, blue-gray and white colored coat, skinny tail that hurt when it hit you and the biggest bat ears I'd ever seen on a puppy. There was one other oddity his eyes were two different colors, one blue one brown.

This little guy's energy level was amazing; he ran and bounced like there were springs attached to the pads of his feet. He made us laugh from the moment he walked through the front door.

However the reality of having a new puppy soon set in, keep in mind we had not done this for fifteen years. Prior to Toby's arrival we had been blessed with a wonderful Golden Retriever named Beau. Unfortunately after fifteen years of love and companionship he left us due to a long illness.

Getting back to the new puppy for about the first year I awoke each morning between 4:00 ? 4:30am, walked around the yard in the freezing cold ? it was October when this little furbaby came to live with us ? then slept in a chair with my new little buddy.

In the end the interrupted sleep, housebreaking and everything else that come with a new puppy was well worth it.

Toby has grown into a beautiful, absolutely handsome dog ? Oh, in case I didn't mention it, he is a Blue Merle Shetland Sheepdog ? he has brought so much joy and laughter to our home, but most importantly he helped fill a void in my heart that I really believed would be there forever.

He is such a wonderful friend. Every morning he is waiting for me when I come down the stairs - he's afraid of stairs and will not go up or down - sits next to me while watching TV and lays in his bed right next to my desk keeping me company while using the computer.

I'm also kept informed of anything that happens to be going on - ringing phone, Squirrels in the yard, passing cars and trucks, timer on the oven going off.

You may be wondering why I titled this story My Whirling Twirling Sheltie. For those of you lucky enough to share your lives with these gorgeous little dogs, you already know the answer. For those of you not familiar with Shelties here is why.

Shelties are very happy, vocal, lovable dogs that smile ? yes, they smile ? because of this they get excited about almost everything, when this happens they spin around in circles.

It's really amazing to watch; you wonder sometimes how it is that they don't bang into something or why they don't fall over from being dizzy. This trait is so common it's even got a name &quot;The Sheltie Spin&quot;.

If you are considering getting a puppy, check out these fantastic bundles of fluff. They are compact in size, extremely intelligent, they love to learn and pick up new commands quite fast. However in my opinion their best quality is their loyalty, their love is so unconditional; it really is a wonderful thing.

This is a share ware article. Give this article away for free on your site, or include it as part of any paid package as long as the entire article is left intact including this notice. Copyright ? 2005 Bonnie Carrier.

Bonnie P. Carrier is the creator of Savvy Home Decorating & Savvy Outdoor Decorating. She is the mother to two grown daughters and a very spoiled 4yr old Blue Merle Sheltie named Toby. Stop by for information and ideas for both inside and outside your home.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.savvy-home-decorating.com">http://www.savvy-home-decorating.com</a>

<a target="_new" href="http://www.savvyoutdoordecorating.com">http://www.savvyoutdoordecorating.com</a>

Dog Training Collars -- Proper Selection Leads To Training Success

The proper selection of a training collar can have a significant impact on the success of any dog training program. Most new dog trainers make the mistake of choosing a dog collar that does not allow for adequate control during the training sessions.

During my nearly four years of working with dogs, I have seen dog collars in numerous sizes and shapes. From head leaders to pronged choke collars, the choices available to dog owners are endless. However, in my training experience, I have not seen a dog training collar as effective as the classic choke collar.

The basic choke collar is an effective training tool that can be used on almost any size dog (for very small dogs, a nylon dog collar might be preferred). When used properly, the correction and response of the dog is almost immediate.

The key to using a choke collar effectively is to keep the dog collar loose when the dog is exhibiting proper behavior. For example, if the dog is heeling without pulling ahead, the choke collar should remain loose. If the dog begins to pull ahead, a quick "pop" or tightening of the collar will teach the dog that unwanted behavior has occurred. As soon as the dog's behavior has corrected, the collar is once again loosened.

By using the tightening & loosening technique, the dog quickly learns to associate good behavior with a loose collar. If the collar were to remain constantly tightened, the dog would only learn to fight against the choking feeling.

Regardless of which collar type you choose, it is imperative that the dog collar fit properly and give you, the trainer, maximum control over the dog.

For nearly four years, David Dunlap has been working & training dogs from puppyhood to more advanced levels. For more information on dog collars, visit <a target="_new" href="http://dogcollarinfo.com">http://dogcollarinfo.com</a>

Lower Your Veterinarian Costs And Increase the Longevity of Your Pets Lives

What does doing natural preventative care mean? I thought vaccinating, prevention medicines, and premium kibble was natural preventative care. Hardly.

Unfortunately the pharmaceutical companies and the pet food industry have really pulled the wool over everyone's eyes -but the wool is coming off! People are frustrated with the way traditional care has let them down and are seeking alternatives to help them not only give their pets more quality of life but longer lives. It seems as though we barely get our pets to a "settled" place in our lives before they're gone. It doesn't have to be like this.

Please don't misunderstand, mainstream care does have its place but it should not be the only choice people and their pets have. In fact, I think it's the imbalanced lean towards allopathic medicine rather than including homeopathic and naturopathic and alternative therapies that is a big part of the problem. At some point where do we stop and say, what happened to &quot;first do no harm&quot;?

Okay, so let's start with what preventative, natural, holistic care means with a definition of the words holistic, preventative and natural which I obtained from my American Heritage Dictionary: 1. Holistic: ?2) emphasizing the importance of the whole and the interdependence of its parts. 2. Natural: 1) present in or produced by nature; not artificial or man-made; 3) pertaining to or produced solely by nature or the expected order of things 3. Preventive: 1) designed or used to prevent or hinder; acting as an obstacle; precautionary. 2) Thwarting or warding off illness or disease. When we put all these definitions together: the whole of the parts working interdependently, without artificial ingredients or synthetics, in the natural order of things you will then ward off illness or disease! Now that we have the definition of natural pet care in place, let's go deeper into the how to do this and thereby lowering the costs of your pet care and increase the longevity of your pets lives.

The first place to always start is with nutrition and that starts with what you are feeding your pets. My initial answer will be as species specific as you can get in a domestic setting. For dogs and cats that means that meat needs to be the primary ingredient of their food. Not kibble. Kibble isn't fit for anything or anyone to eat. There a couple I will recommend in the light of a very reluctant pet owner not being able to stomach the idea of feeding raw meat to their dog or cat, but I will say that as long as you adhere to kibble your pets will experience the problems associated with food that their bodies weren't designed to digest.

There are many different forms of feeding natural for example in dogs you can choose a B.A.R.F. diet which translates to Biologically Appropriate Raw Food and can also stand for Bones and Raw Food. This diet consists of all raw meats, veggies, dairy products, and nuts. Some adhere to strictly feeding raw meat. Some to a cooked diet of meat and vegetables. I think that you've got to decide what will work in your household and do that and any of these, including the cooked diet is far better than any form of a kibble diet. Think of animals in the wild ? they do not get kibble or pellets. Our domestic pets don't need those things either!

I feed my dog a cooked meat diet along with a natural whole food liquid supplement. I also use essential oils to thwart parasites and help with the pain in his forelegs. He came to us as a very abused, starved, neglected nearly 5 month old puppy. Through trial and error we've found what keeps him healthy, strong and happy and he is completely natural. We do homeopathic for heartworm prevention. He actually runs with me and traditionally his breed is not a running breed ? or so it's thought! So you also need to include some precautionary nutrition along with natural feeding. For horses you always need to be concerned with worms but there are natural ways like using food grade (ONLY use food grade) diatomaceous earth ?this also works well in cats, dogs and other warm-blooded animals but I prefer to use essential oils in my dog.

Next I would consider why vaccinating seems to be so important to your pets health. Let me give you just a few examples of why that could be the very thing that is harming your pets rather than helping them (information from www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com):

"Routine" vaccination has adverse side-effects, either short or long term. With vaccines that are repeated year after year, the frequency and severity of these side-effects in our pets has increased dramatically. Most of the problems involve the immune system. After all, the immune system is what vaccines are designed to stimulate. But they do so in a very unnatural way that can overwhelm and confuse the immune system." Donna Starita Mehan DVM. I believe that Dr. Mehan is saying here that while vaccinations stimulate the immune system and that is supposed to rev it up, the vaccine actually not only does this unnaturally as Dr. Mehan stated but it also causes so much confusion in the immune system that much more harm than good is done by vaccinating.

Dr. Ronald D. Schultz, Ph.D..- "Annual revaccination provides no benefit and may increase the risk for adverse reactions. The percentage of vaccinated animals (those vaccinated only as puppies) protected from clinical disease after challenge with canine distemper virus, canine parvovirus and canine adenovirus in the study was greater than 95%." Current and Future Canine and Feline Vaccination Programs. Dr. Ronald Schultz is a Professor and Chair of the Department of Pathobiological Sciences at the School of Veterinary Medicine, UW-Madison. Schultz, R.D. - Current & Future Canine & Feline Vaccination Programs. Vet Med 3: No. 3, 233-254, 1998 more. A chart provided in the report shows immunity levels for all vaccines currently given to dogs lasting a minimum of 5 years with most lasting 7-15 years! Don Hamilton, DVM -Yearly "boosters" are unnecessary, provide no benefit if given (will not increase immunity). Thus boosters are either a legal issue (Rabies) or a manipulation issue (inducing clients to come in for examination rather than directly suggesting an examination). Charles E Loops DVM - "Homeopathic veterinarians and other holistic practitioners have maintained for some time that vaccinations do more harm than they provide benefits. Vaccinations represent a major assault on the body's immune system.... Vaccine induced chronic diseases range from life-threatening conditions such as auto-immune crises to conditions destroying the quality of life of an animal as in chronic skin allergies."

These are just a few examples with veterinarians leading the way in sharing this information which I find interesting since vaccinations and surgeries are their bread and butter. A few of the holistic/homeopathic vets I know started in mainstream medicine and became frustrated and moved into the holistic arena so they could do their patients the most good. Feed correctly with proper back up supplementation and your pets will have natural immunities that protect them naturally from disease.

Another thing to do is to keep your pets stimulated mentally through exercise, play and training. Animals love to have a job and they love to be useful. The key to a good interaction here is training according to the natural interaction of the animal you own. What does that mean? For a dog it means approaching him or her using the &quot;pack&quot; mentality. For the horse it means approaching the horse the way another horse would. It all makes common sense really. Good practical common sense, do away with all these synthetics, using the natural order of things, and all the parts working together means you don't treat an illness, you treat the pet. I like what I saw Dr. Shawn Messonnier write recently to one of the groups I belong to, &quot;I don't treat crystals in the urine, I treat the pet&quot;. That's what holistic means: all the parts working together interdependently. So not treating the symptoms but caring for the entire animal is the answer to lowering your veterinarian costs and increasing the longevity of your pets lives.

Article originally published on and for http://www.Suite101.com under the Holistic Pet Care topic.

Kim Bloomer is a preventative pet care consultant. She offers natural products and a business opportunity. She is partnered with a dog breeder and internationally known master dog trainer in their online audio pet care classes, All God's Creatures. Visit her website for details <a target="_new" href="http://www.aspenbloompetcare.com">Aspenbloom Pet Care</a> and her dog's blog <a target="_new" href="http://www.bark-n-blog.com">Bark 'n' Blog</a>

The Fun of Do It Yourself Snake and other Reptile Cages

Are you nuts? You think banging your finger with a hammer is fun? No, I don't. But building your own snake and other reptile cages can be a fun and rewarding experience.

Before you even start, it is important to spend some time planning your reptile enclosure and carefully examining at how other cages are manufactured. Check out all of the parts, examine the locks, joins and vents. How is the lighting done? What about the heating?

Use this information to design your own cages, based on the needs of your reptile and its size. Work out the size of cage you require and design it accordingly, altering the basic designs as needed to suit your purposes.

Building something yourself is a great feeling. I personally enjoy the process of shopping for materials and deciding which is best for the purpose.

There are quite a few questions to consider, such as:

? what should I make the base from
? what is the best way to make a vent
? how do you make the base water resistant
? what sort of lock should I use
? what sort of door should I use and how do I make it
? what is the best light fitting
? How should I heat it

Getting the materials home and the anticipation of starting your reptile cage is an exciting time. The will be frustrations to overcome, problems to solve but the feeling of accomplishing and achievement you finally get from building something yourself is fantastic.

Every time you go into the room and see the cages you made you can feel good about them. Sure, you will sometimes get a bit picky about the smaller details. What could you have done better, what if you had done this here etc. ? well maybe next time.

Some people even use the skills they learn to make cages for other people and make a bit of money. Once you have the skills and tools it is easy. Even if you don not have all of the tools, there are ways around it. You can go to local cabinet makers when you need something cut to size that is too large for you to handle. They are generally happy to oblige for a small fee and you get a perfectly square piece of timber.

On a final note, making your own cages is a fun and rewarding experience and is recommended it to anyone considering it.

Mark Chapple is the Author of "How to build enclosures for reptiles." Find out how anyone can build reptile cages. Full color pictures, detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions. <a target="_new" href="http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com">http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com</a>

Dog Vomiting? Help Your Dog Now

In most cases you should not be too concerned about your dog vomiting. If you know that the dog got into something or you changed its diet, you can probably wait 24 hours to see if the vomiting clears up, but only if your dog does not appear lethargic.

<B>You must withhold food for 24 hours</B> and then gradually start a bland diet. If at any time the dog becomes worse please see your veterinarian.

If your dog has been vomiting continually for more than 1 hour or if he has been vomiting on and off for 24 hours, it is severe and you should bring him in to see the doctor.

Vomiting can have lots of causes. Sometimes the cause can be straightforward. An easy indication maybe what was the pet's last meal.

<B> Sometimes the consistency of the vomit may indicate what's wrong.</B>

? Undigested food-1.food poisoning 2. Anxiety, 3.simply overeating

? Strong odor-intestinal obstruction.

If no vomiting occurs in 24 hours, then you can try and give some ice cubes followed by water. If no vomiting occurs, then give a small amount of a bland diet. If the dog continues to vomit, call your veterinarian.

<B>What to do for dog vomiting<B>

1. <B>withholding food for 24 hours.</B>

2. <B>Feed a bland diet</B>, consisting of 2/3 rice, sweet potato or oatmeal and 1/3 of the meal should be well cooked non-fatty meats like chicken.

3. Feed only 1/2 of the normal amount of food at a time. Or you can feed several small meals until the vomiting has subsided.

Find out what additional steps you can take to help your sick dog at <a target="_new" href="http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com">http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com</a>

You can submit a question to the veterinarian by clicking here <a target="_new" href="http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com/askavet.html">http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com/askavet.html</a>

Chris Suckow, DVM, currently lives and works in Los Angeles.

How To Install An Emergency Brake On Your Horse

Imagine being on a horse and he bolts. You pull those reins to slow him down but it's no use. He resists and the fence posts go whizzing by you as you panic and pray he doesn't shift his bodyweight and you fly off his back into a post.

It's scary to be on a horse that runs on his own volition and can't be slowed down. Many people will sell their horse because they're so scared of that happening again. How do you keep a horse from bolting like that?

There is a way to temper your horse even if he spots something that scares him and he wants to run in fear. I call it, &quot;Installing an emergency brake.&quot;

This is done on the ground while you're doing ground training. Every time you work with your horse you should spend a few minutes doing this ? even if you know your horse &quot;gets it.&quot; It simply cannot be done enough.

What does it look like when you use the emergency brake on your horse? While you're riding, you reach down to either rein. You tightly grab the rein, slide it up your legs along the seam of your pants up to your hips. At the same time, you are loosely holding the other rein. As you do this, your horse's nose will be pointing back towards his rear end.

Why does this work? Ever try to run forward while looking backwards? Need I say more? (There are exceptions. Some horses are so limber they will run forward with their nose buried in their sides ? but not many)

But you can't simply get on your horse and expect to pull his head back if he takes off. You must do some ground work first. And here's what you do.

Put a halter on your horse and hook a lead rope to the halter. Stand on the left side of your horse. Stand by your horse across from his back leg. Take your right arm and put it over his rump. Next, pull the lead rope towards you and rest your left hand on his back.

At this point your horse will resist some. If he pulls his head forward you hold the lead rope in place. Eventually he will move his head back towards you and give into the pull you have on the lead rope. The second he moves his head back towards you then you release the lead rope tension and praise him. In other words, when you see the lead rope has slack in it because he moved his nose back towards you, then release.

Eventually, you want him to touch his nose to his body. That's the goal you're shooting for because the more his head comes around the better control you will have. Also, there's a second goal you're shooting for. When you pull the lead rope around to bring your horse's head back, you want it to be where you don't pull. He moves his head back for you. As you pull on the lead rope his head moves back with no exertion from you. His head follows. It's called being responsive. This is important because when you're riding your horse and you have to pull his head around you don't want to have a tug of war while you're riding a bolting horse. You want him to automatically do it.

At first your horse won't be able to touch his nose to his body. So you start with small successes. At first you pull his head back towards you until you get resistance. When you do, hold the lead rope tension. Don't make the tension more or less, simply hold it there. The second he looks back toward you more and creates slack in the lead rope, you give him immediate relief and take the tension off the lead rope completely. Then you tell him what a good boy he is. Pet him too. Let him know that's just what you wanted.

As you do this, you will want him to bring his head farther and farther back until he begins to touch his nose to his body. Don't try to get him to touch his nose to his body within the first one or two ground sessions. That's rushing it and you likely won't make it happen. This takes time to get your horse to understand what you want him to do.

Remember to do this on the other side of your horse too. What your horse can do on his left side, he should be able to do on his right side.

When you have your horse touching his nose to his side, then you're ready to get on him and test his emergency brake. Get on your horse and go for a test ride. If he starts to run and you don't want him to, grab a rein and pull his head around. Don't jerk the reins?pull. Then boot him into a circle. When he slows down or stops like you want him to then release the pressure. Remember to do it on the left and right reins.

If your horse doesn't easily touch his nose to his body while riding him, then you need to have him practice it more. Also, before you go riding have him touch his nose a few times on each side with the bit in his mouth. Doing these things will cinch your riding into a pleasant experience.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com</a>. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm</a>.

Old Fashioned Flea Control

Fleas have plagued dogs, cats, and their owners since time began so ways to kill or repel them has been a constant search. Today, with the shake of a can, the spray of a bottle, or a flea dip fleas are more easily controlled. But before these controls were available, pet owners were constantly on the lookout for a better way to free their pets of these disease carrying insects.

The flea can cause many illnesses including anemia, tapeworms, typhus, and skin infections, according to veterinarians. The National Institutes of Health says that bubonic plague was, and still can be, transmitted by fleas. Rocky Mountain Fever and Lyme Disease are the most common illnesses caused by fleas. The last two diseases were thought to be transmitted only by ticks.

Common foods and herbs were used to help keep pets flea- free. Brewer's yeast, sprinkled onto the dog's coat like flea powder is today, was used as a deterrent. Unlike flea powders, it wasn't harmful to the dog if the dog licked the brewer's yeast off. Internally, the yeast fortified the health of the dogs skin because it is high in B-vitamins. Keeping the skin healthy is necessary for good control of fleas.

For more information on flea control:

http://www.apluswriting.net/onlynaturalpetstore/fleacontrol. htm

And more natural pet products for your dog or cat:

http://www.apluswriting.net/onlynaturalpetstore/onlynaturalp etstore.htm

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Author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: <a target="_new" href="http://www.apluswriting.net">http://www.apluswriting.net</a>

Guinea Pig History

Their scientific name is Cavia Tschuldi and their nickname in South America where they were first discovered, is&quot;Cavy. As you might have guessed Guinea Pigs are rodents.

Near the Andes Mountains in Peru over a thousand years ago , some Inca Indians were exploring near the tall grass on the edge of a forest, when they found dozens of little hairy creatures scampering around.

The fat little animals when they bent down to pick them up did not bite or even seem to mind . The Incas soon learned that the cavies or cuy, were wild but safe animals, who liked to hide in tall grass away from the hungry owls and other predators that they were easy prey to.

They searched out burrows and homes made by rabbits or snakes or other creatures and made these spaces their home. When it was night and dark, they would wander out to find food. Wild guinea pigs live all over South America from Argentina to Columbia. Some scientists say that the Inca Indians were the first to tame the wild guinea pigs, but other scientists think that even prehistoric people as far back as 5000 B.C. were keeping guinea pigs as pets and raising them as a source of food.

If you would like to know more about guinea pigs as pets,why not get a copy of my book at

<a target="_new" href="http://www.mysecretsrevealed.com">http://www.mysecretsrevealed.com</a>

or if you are interested in recieving my guinea pig newsletter just send me an email with newsletter in subject at graeme@mysecretsrevealed.com

Why Build Your Own Reptile Cage?

When I first started my interest in reptiles I was only young. At that stage of my life I had little or no skills and did not understand the requirements of the wonderful creatures so I did not keep them effectively. We just kept the local lizards, so the cage temperature was not an issue.

I rekindled my desire later in life but I also had mortgages, the cost of raising a family and the daily costs of living to contend with. A reptile was expensive enough, without adding the costs of retail cages and accessories. So I built my own. It saved me a lot of money.

You do need some basic tools but the money you save by making it yourself will allow you to purchase some of those tools that help make the cage. The remainder can go into accessories so that for the cost of a basic cage with nothing else you can make a cage, get some tools and the cage accessories and still have money left over. That's a big difference.

Many people have materials about the house. If you are going to make your own cages you can save even more money by using bits and pieces or timber you may already have, screws, old glass, hinges, light battens etc. that you already have in the basement or garage.

When upgrading one of my cages recently, I was able to reuse some of the materials and the fittings for use on the new cage. This saved me having to purchase new accessories and materials.

Another benefit is the ability to maintain your own cages. Many of the plastic or moulded cages cannot be fixed once they are broken. With a cage you made yourself you can usually fix broken locks or replace doors (I haven't had to do any of these yet as they are very sturdy).

When you build your own cages you decide how strong it will be and what quality of fitting, glues and materials you will be using. The higher the quality of materials and accessories you use, the better the final cage product. You are not at the mercy of manufacturers saving money by using inferior materials and poor quality fittings.

Another benefit is the ability to customise you cages to suit your purpose. One of my earliest cages was built as a normal cage but by placing a removable divider in the middle it allowed me to re-use the cage when I shipped one of the snakes out. This divider was fitted over the middle of a heat mat, allowing for two reptiles to be housed in the cage. It also had two doors. The cage is now used for another purpose but will soon be empty. The divider can still be placed back in the cage for another small snake and then simply removed as the snake gets larger. Tis snake will finally be moved into an arboreal cage. To purchase a plastic cage with divider that will only be a transient cage before the snake goes into a final cage is an expensive exercise.

If you do need to upgrade again, you have the time to build the final cage as the snake grows.

Making your own cages allows you to build and maintain your reptile cages in a cost effective manner while keeping them comfortable and healthy. You can also expand your collection in an affordable way, making more money available for the reptiles while still getting quality cages.

Mark Chapple is the Author of "How to build enclosures for reptiles." Find out how anyone can build reptile cages. Full color pictures, detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions. <a target="_new" href="http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com">http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com</a>

Mosquitoes Are a Hazard to Your Pets Health Too

None of us likes to be bitten by mosquitoes and sometimes it is easy to forget that our pets suffer from mosquito bites too.

Mosquitoes feed on blood, and they will take it where they can find it. Only the female bites, the males feed on plant nectar. While the female may have preferred hosts, she must have protein from blood to produce eggs. And, one blood meal is often not enough to produce a clutch of eggs. Often the female will feed, rest to digest the meal and feed again up to three times before she can get enough protein to produce her eggs.

So, each time your pet is outside in mosquito territory, it is a sitting target for a hungry female mosquito that is eager to reproduce.

Many species of mosquitoes will choose birds over humans or pets, but they have even been known to feed on frogs and other reptiles, if that is what they can find for a blood meal.

Most responsible pet owners know of the hazards from mosquito bites associated with heartworm disease in cats and dogs. Mosquitoes carry parasite larvae, which they transmit to your pet once they bite. The parasite larvae then migrate to the heart and major circulatory organs in your pet, where it develops into an adult worm that can reach ten inches in length.

The problem with heartworms is that they can take many years to develop into an adult that can cause symptoms in your cat or dog. Dogs are usually more at risk than cats, simply because they are usually outdoors more often. By the time the symptoms develop, treatment is long and difficult. Sometimes the pet owner is unaware of the problem until the animal simply dies during exertion, a tragic ending that is very preventable.

Protection against heartworms is as easy as a trip to your veterinarian. Many effective medicines, which are given orally, can prevent development of the larvae, if an infected mosquito bites your pet. The biggest failure of these medicines is pet owner default. They must be administered faithfully once per month with no lapse in treatment. And, just because it seems like mosquito season is at bay, don't lapse and forget to give your pet its dose. Many mosquitoes over-winter in protected places and they arouse ready to bite long before you might expect them.

Luckily, it is now possible to get a shot for your pet that will afford protection against heartworms for up to six months. Even diligent and caring pet owners can sometimes forget about the narrow window of opportunity for administering the oral medication. This new advancement spares you and your pet the risky aftermath of those lapses.

Now, pet owners have an even greater concern about mosquito bites to their pets. While rare, West Nile virus has been reported in both dogs and cats. There are very few reported cases of pet fatalities in dogs and cats, but the risk still exists. Instead, most of the time, the animal may test positive for the virus, without having symptoms.

If your pet has West Nile virus, it may have the following symptoms: fever, depression or lethargy, muscle weakness or spasms, impaired coordination, seizures or paralysis. If your pet has these symptoms, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Bird and horse owners should be much more concerned. West Nile virus is primarily fatal to many bird species. Crows, for example, are very susceptible to fatal cases. Sparrows, on the other hand, easily contract it, but have no symptoms. And, migratory birds like sparrows help to continue the spread of the virus because they are highly mobile.

Of those birds that are kept as pets, parrots, cockateels and parakeets are most at risk. The risk factor is lower because they are seldom outside. If your home is well sealed and has good screens, these pets should be easily protected, if kept indoors.

Horse owners are now able to protect their horses with a very effective vaccine. Horses are particularly susceptible to mosquito borne viruses, and it is difficult to keep them away from outdoor exposure, even in barns and stalls. No such vaccine exists for smaller animals.

The same thing that protects you against mosquito diseases also protect your pets. Prevention!

Keep your home and yard mosquito free by being sure that mosquitoes don't have places to breed. Avoid allowing any water to stand in containers, like buckets, birdbaths, pet bowls, gutters, storm drains, and plant saucers. Many mosquitoes need only ? cup of water to breed.

The FDA has traditionally advised keeping your pet indoors around dawn and dusk, because that is when many mosquito species feed. That advice is no longer enough to protect your pet. The Asian tiger mosquito is an aggressive day biter. It was imported to the United States in 1985 and is now found in 30 states. It carries both West Nile virus and heartworm parasites.

Instead, get rid of any possible breeding sites and also get a good pet insect repellant. Mosquito repellants made for humans are not to be used on pets. Never put any repellant on pets that is not DEET free. Instead get a repellant that is made for veterinary use and apply only according to directions. With your pets, you have to assume they may lick treated areas and you can't afford to take a chance that the repellant may be toxic to them.

For example, tea tree oil is a good natural mosquito repellent for humans, but it has proved fatal to some cats that have licked it off of their fur.

And, consider getting a propane powered mosquito trap to reduce mosquito populations in your yard. They are very effective, although expensive, but actually kill hundreds of mosquitoes if used according to the manufacturers directions. Over time these devices can actually decrease mosquito populations.

Mosquitoes are here to stay. Our best defense for our pets is to know how to avoid them, and how to keep our pets safe using the latest scientific advances. And, many of the things we do to protect our pets from mosquito borne diseases are good for us too.

About The Author

Scottie Johnson is a life long mosquito warrior, free lance author and dog lover. For more information about having a mosquito free life, visit her site at <a href="http://www.mosquito-kill-net.com" target="_new">http://www.mosquito-kill-net.com</a>; <a href="mailto:info@www.mosquito-kill-net.com">info@www.mosquito-kill-net.com</a>

Flea Control

Last summer, we added a new pet to our family - our cat, Ally. She was a sweet, shorthaired, stray kitten that we picked up from a neighbor's house. Ally had one problem though - fleas. She was completely infested with them, which in turn, infested our home with them.

We tried everything to get rid of those pesky blood-suckers, including flea collars, indoor foggers, and bathing her with flea shampoo. And everyone knows how much cats hate water! Nothing that we tried worked. Just when we thought we were rid of them, more would hatch.

We even considered putting Ally back outside, but we decide to try one more thing before resorting to such drastic measures.

We took her to the vet, where we were provided with more effective flea foggers and a flea spray for our home called Siphotrol Plus II. We used these to kill the fleas in our house while Ally was at the vet getting a flea dip. They also treated her with Frontline Plus, which was applied to the back of her neck. Our trip to the vet wound up costing about $150, but it was worth it. We were rid of the fleas, and we were able to keep Ally in the house.

We were instructed to reapply the Frontline Plus monthly, however, we found another product at our local Co-op that is much cheaper than Frontline Plus and seems to work well so far. It is called Flea Halt! and is made by Farnam Pet Products.

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Housebreaking Your Dog-Potty Training Canine Style

Puppies are a bundle of newfound joy. You've prepared the house, and even bought him a new rubber chew toy. However, with all the joy your new pet brings, he also brings along with him his natural behaviors and instincts. It's now your job to begin training and molding him into the furry companion you've always wanted. It's not quite time for adventure or obedience school. It's time for potty training!

Just for starters, let's reiterate what pet experts back 100% of the time: never hit or abuse your puppy in any way. It will have a detrimental affect on his future behavior, his trust in you, and his ability to socialize with other dogs and humans.

With that said, you should not expect your new dog to be fully housetrained until he's about six months old, especially if you're not home to oversee his training every hour of every day.

There are a couple of different tried and true options to choose from when house training a puppy. One is commonly referred to as the &quot;passive&quot; option, or the newspaper option. The other option is considered the &quot;active&quot; approach, where you attempt to teach your new puppy when and where to control his bowel movements from the confines of a puppy crate.

The newspaper option is great for those with the necessary floor space, workers and/or apartment dwellers. Start out by designating a puppy room. If you don't have the space, and you still want to opt this route, create a room. Choose a small area (perhaps a tiled laundry room) and puppy proof it. In other words, don't allow the puppy access to any cleaners, wires or sharp objects. And, don't put your puppy into a closet or dark room. Be sure the room has windows (which you can crack open for air movement). Line the floor with newspaper. Put his bed, toys, food and water bowl in the room. At first, he'll go to the bathroom all over the place. Give the process plenty of time.

Optimistically, no matter where your puppy eliminates, it will be on the newspaper. Over time he'll slowly choose one spot (most likely based on scent). Then, gradually move the newspapers less and less on the floor until the spot where he usually eliminates is left covered. This process could take a few months. Move the paper inward only an inch or two every couple of days. If your puppy has an accident, remember, it's your fault. Most likely, you've moved the papers too quickly.

Crate training, as stated, is called the &quot;active&quot; approach because you really have to have an open schedule with plenty of patience and fortitude to make it work. Figure that you're going to have to take your dog out of the crate/cage about every forty-five to fifty minutes each hour of the day when you first begin.

If this is all viable, then make sure that you buy a puppy crate and not a dog cage that will be much to big. Buy a puppy cage for a puppy and later a dog cage when he becomes full-grown. Your dog should have enough space to be comfortable when sleeping, but not enough to have room to defecate in an extra corner.

Every forty-five minutes you should take your puppy outdoors on a leash to walk around and hopefully eliminate. He should do so within ten minutes. When he does go, praise the puppy by petting and saying, &quot;Good boy&quot; or &quot;Good&quot; plus his name. Once inside, allow the puppy to have supervised indoor playtime with a treat or two. If the puppy doesn't go to the bathroom outdoors, be sure to put him back in his cage and repeat the process a little later. If the puppy jitters around like he has to go to the bathroom, take him back outdoors. Expect accidents until he learns the procedure.

While both procedures take ample time and patience, they will work. The choice is yours. Give the puppy time to become familiar with his routine, you as his owner and his environment. The best thing to do is to richly award his successful attempts and never scold him for accidents.

About the Author:
Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-gifts-and-toys-for-dog-lovers.com">Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers</a>.

Copyright 2005. All rights reserved.

Managing Horse Pasture

A major part of a horse's diet is hay or pasture. A horse weighing 1000 pounds will eat about 500 pounds each month. A horse needs roughly 28 acres of non-irrigated, dryland pasture a year if that is the only source of forage. However, a pasture that is irrigated will grow more forage than dryland pasture, requiring less acreage. The amount of irrigated pasture needed for one horse is roughly 1 to 2 acres.

Two acres of pasture for each horse are recommended. One acre of pasture will provide adequate grazing, but requires more pasture management. Manage your pasture as you would with any crop with soil testing, fertilizing, and managing manure. Horses will not eat trampled grass or grass with manure on it. Horses will also overgraze smaller areas very quickly. Therefore, a combination of pasture and small lot or barn is needed to help minimize overgrazing.

Do not let horses overgraze the pasture as this can cause grass to no longer grow. Keep pasture grass healthy--overgrazed pasture may never recover. To allow for re-growth, leave about 1/3 of the grass uneaten at any given time. The horse can be confined to the lot or barn and only allowed to graze for a few hours a day, reducing damage to a small pasture. Rotational pasture lots are one key to using small acreage pasture space to the fullest potential. Portable electric fencing provides an efficient and economic way to partition you pasture. Over-supplementing your horse with hay and grain will not prevent your horse from overgrazing.

Pasture grazing is not absolutely necessary for a horse. A nice green pasture is not always a reality. Horses can be properly fed without pasture. However, pasture has several advantages as it is the natural feed for horses, reduces the cost of feeding, provides your horse with exercise, and generally speaking, horses are usually healthier when kept outside on pasture.

Establishing and maintaining a productive pasture is not too difficult. A few dollars spent on soil nutrients for your pasture is a good investment. Fertilizer will help your pasture to become more productive and produce more forage. Fertilizer costs will generally be offset from good pasture rotating and from savings in feed costs for hay and grain supplements.

Mowing is also important of pasture management. It minimizes the spread of weeds to help maintain higher quality forage. Mowing weeds before seed heads are produced limits the spread of weeds. Grass should be mowed to 3-4 inches.

No matter how well you manage your pasture, it will most likely thin. To help ensure pasture continues to produce good grass, new forage seed should be spread every year. It is recommended re-seeding be done in the spring or fall. In the spring, wet conditions will allow for germination and growth, but only if it is not too wet or muddy. In the fall, there will be less competition from weeds. Grazing should not be allowed on new grass seedlings for approximately 6 to 8 weeks after emerging from the ground to allow for proper root growth.

Caution! Turning your horse out on green lush pasture before conditioning him to a change in diet is dangerous and can result in sickness or possibly death. Start your horse out slowly by letting him graze for few minutes each day and gradually increase to a few hours each day.

Randall Holman, site owner of Front Range Frenzy and horse enthusiast, is the author of the above article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website: <a href="http://www.frontrangefrenzy.com" target="_blank">http://www.FrontRangeFrenzy.com</a>.

The One-Minute Horse Training Manager

If your life is so busy you literally only have a minute or two a day to spend with your horse, then here are 5 smart training tips you can use to keep your horse "tuned up" when you have just minutes a day.

Smart Tip #1: Practice Backing Up

Suppose you just fed your horse some hay and he's eating. Assuming you have enough room to get beside him, put your finger into his chest and get him to back up. Getting a horse to back up is a basic and essential lesson horses should know. Plus, when you get a horse to move in a direction you want him to move, you earn respect from him.

Smart Tip #2: Practice Getting His Head Down

Just before you feed your horse approach him. When you get to him pet him a couple times. Then put your thumb and first finger on his poll and push down. Do not increase the pressure of the push. Instead, on a scale of one to ten, push at a one. Then say "head down". If he doesn't drop his head increase the pressure to a two. Then say "head down". Repeat the process increasing the pressure until his head drops.

When his head drops, reward him with a petting above the eyes on the forehead.

Over time, work on getting him to drop his head down where you can easily put on a halter.

Smart Tip #3: Quick Lunge

If you have a minute or two, before you feed your horse slip on a halter with a lead rope. Lunge your horse left and right a few times and get him to back up and come forward. You can accomplish this in just about two minutes.

Smart Tip #4: Pick Up The Feet

Before feeding your horse, go pick up his feet. You should start with the front feet. Remember to reward each time he does what you ask. Then go to the back feet. If your horse is sensitive about picking up his feet you can make amazing breakthroughs over time by doing this in just minutes a day.

Smart Tip #5: Brush Your Horse

Before feeding, approach your horse with a halter and brush in hand. Put on the halter then brush him. You do this because you want him to associate the halter with pleasure and he'll come to you almost every time. Thus, whenever you want to ride or work with him, and you approach with a halter, he's more willing to let you catch him.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com</a>. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm</a>.

No, No, No! Drop It, Drop It! Give It To Me Now!

Puppies can be so exasperating! They know what we want, and what we don't want, yet they continue to push our buttons. Wait a minute! Maybe we can rewire our buttons and bring them out of reach of Puppy! Use the following tips to help prevent Puppy Theft and other hiccups in Puppy's road to adulthood.

SUPERVISE, SUPERVISE, SUPERVISE.

The more that you can supervise rather than confine, the happier Puppy will be. Additionally, he will learn his lessons that much quicker. If you must wrap a leash around your waist to keep Puppy with you while you move about your home, do so. If all members of the family must take turns leaving the room or taking the puppy with them, do so. However, when you CANNOT keep him supervised, CONFINE him. He doesn't care that you just left the room "for a minute." That absence gave him a minute to fill--possibly with your favorite sandal.

SCAN THE ROOM, REMOVE THE BAIT.

When you leave toys, shoes, books, and other objects lying around, you have set Puppy up to fail. If it is within sight, if it is within reach, it should be considered bait. Redirect your commands--instead of directing "drop it, drop it!" at Puppy, you should be repeating "pick it up, pick it up" to every other family member in the house. Remember, every failure to remove these objects before they are confiscated by Puppy should be considered a failure by you, not Puppy.

TRADE THE GOODS.

Try rewarding Puppy--not for taking the wrong object, but for trading it for the right object. Trade a shoe or a couch leg for a favorite treat or toy, happily and without a fuss on your part. Make sure you keep your voice cheerful and offer lots of praise when he even thinks of doing the right thing. He will learn not to run from you with his stolen object, as he will know that you are approaching to offer him a desireable trade. (Make it worth the trade, or you lose!)

NEVER LET HIM SEE YOU SWEAT.

When you feel your patience running low, separate yourself from Puppy. Give him time in his crate with a favorite toy or treat and give yourself some space. Whenever you can, read about how puppies think. Do this throughout his growing stages to keep reminding yourself that he is a Puppy, not a person. Keeping this straight in times of stress will keep you giving Puppy positive signals that will help to build his confidence and his ability to be the best canine companion he can be.

WIN, WIN.

You will have a win/win relationship when you remember the Golden Rules of Preventing Puppy Theft--Supervise, Supervise, Supervise; Scan the Room, Remove the Bait; Trade the Goods; and Never Let Him See You Sweat.

The author has worked with dogs and dog people for two decades, advocating for smart selections before a new dog is brought into a home and always stressing responsible selection and ownership for the good of the dog, the family and the community. She also makes dog and cat art available to the companion animal industry and to animal lovers at <a target="_new" href="http://www.GreatandSmallGallery.com">http://www.GreatandSmallGallery.com</a>