How To Setup A Freshwater Tropical Fish Tank

This is an 11 step guide to setting up a freshwater aquarium in your home.
Equipment you will need:
Aquarium
Aquarium gravel
Aquarium filter
Replacement filter media
Heater
Other decorations (such as plants)
Chemical test kits
Fish food
Aquarium vacuum
Fish net
Glass Scrubber
5-gallon bucket
Pasta strainer

STEP 1: Realize the responsibility involved. A tropical fish tank is just like having a dog or a cat when it comes to the amount of effort on your part. In order to have a successful fish tank you will have to work at it. Once a week, or at most once every two weeks, you will need to perform some kind of maintenance on the tank. Most of the time you will be performing water changes. You will also have to feed your tropical fish at least once a day. If you are up to the challenge, please proceed!
STEP 2: Decide on an aquarium size. It's a good idea to have in mind what kind of tropical fish you want to keep before you purchase an aquarium. Some tropical fish only grow to be an inch or two, whereas other types of tropical fish can grow 12 or 13 inches in length! Knowing what kind of tropical fish you want will help you decide the size of the tank they will need. If this is your first time with an aquarium, I would recommend going with a 10 or 20 gallon aquarium for now.
STEP 3: Decide on the aquarium's location. Place your aquarium in an area where the light and temperature of the tank won't be affected by external sources such as windows and heater vents. You will want to place your aquarium on a stand that will be able to hold its total weight. A good rule of thumb for determining the total weight of a full aquarium is 10 pounds per gallon of water. For example, a 55-gallon tank will weigh approximately 550 pounds when filled with water!
STEP 4: Buy your aquarium and equipment. Now is the time to decide on the type of filtration you will want to use. You will also need to purchase a heater capable of heating the tank size you have. Buy the gravel, plants, a power strip and other decorations. A good rule of thumb for the amount of gravel that you will need is 1 to 1.5 pounds of gravel per gallon of water.
STEP 5: Set up your aquarium and stand. Wash out your tank with water only! Do not use soap or detergents. Soap residue left behind will be harmful for your tropical fish. If you are going to use an under gravel filter (not recommended) now would be the time to set it up as well.
STEP 6: Wash Gravel, plants and decorations. Be sure to wash the gravel thoroughly before adding it to your tank. An easy way to do this is to put some of the rocks in a pasta strainer and wash them out in your bathtub. Then place the clean gravel in a clean 5-gallon bucket for transport to the aquarium. After adding the gravel you can place your plants and decorations.
STEP 7: Add water to the aquarium. To avoid messing up your gravel and plants, you can place a plate or saucer in the middle of your aquarium and direct the water flow onto the plate. Use room temperature water when filling. To remove the chlorine and chloramine, use something like Tetra AquaSafe for Aquariums. Don't completely fill up the aquarium until you are sure of the layout of your decorations. Otherwise, when you place your arm in to move stuff around water is going to spill over. Doh!
STEP 8: Set up equipment. Install your heater but don't plug it in until the thermostat in the heater has adjusted to the water temperature. This usually takes about 15 minutes or so. Hook up your filter and any other equipment you have, then top off the aquarium water to just under the hood lip. Place your hood and light on the aquarium and then check your power cords to be sure that they are free of water. I would also recommend using a drip loop on all of the power cords to be extra cautious. Plug all of the equipment into a power strip and then "turn on" the aquarium.
STEP 9. Wait, wait, wait and then wait some more. I know, you want to add some tropical fish. But, in order to do this right you must wait until your aquarium has cycled before adding any fish. There are ways of speeding up this process. Check out the nitrogen cycle page to learn more. If you must use fish to cycle, try to get a hardier species like the zebra danio or cherry barb.
STEP 10. Add tropical fish. Only add one or two fish at a time. Adding a couple tropical fish at a time gives your filtration system the time needed to take on the increased biological load that the new fish introduce. When you bring the fish home let the bag float in the tank for about 15 minutes so that the fish can become acclimated to the temperature and pH of the aquarium water. After 5 minutes of floating the bag you should add some of the aquarium water to the bag so that the fish can become acclimated to the pH level in the aquarium. This will help reduce the amount of stress imposed on the tropical fish. Stressed tropical fish often leads to dead tropical fish! Don't feed your tropical fish on the first day. They probably wouldn't eat any food on the first day anyway. Let them get acquainted with their new home.
STEP 11. Get ready for regular maintenance. Be prepared to spend some time once every week or two to clean your tank. Performing regular water changes will reduce the nitrate levels and keep your tropical fish happy and healthy.
For more tropical fish and aquarium information, please visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.fishlore.com">FishLore.com - Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information</a>.

Mike is an editor at <a target="_new" href="http://www.fishlore.com">FishLore.com</a>. Designed for beginners, FishLore.com provides tropical fish information, how-to guides, articles, fish profiles, FAQs, forums and more! <a target="_new" href="http://www.fishlore.com">FishLore.com - Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information</a>

Protecting Your Child from a Dog Bite

Dogs make great loyal pets and are always pleased to see their owner; they are loving and have their own distinct personalities. However, every animal has the potential to become aggressive. Each year 200,000 people are bitten by dogs in the UK, and a number of those are tragically killed as a result. It is an extremely distressing statistic which comes as a surprise to many people who see dogs as friendly animals which often become part of the family unit.

Being bitten by a dog is unpleasant for anyone. Even when a dog is playing, its strong jaw can inflict wounds to human flesh that cause pain and infection. Even breeds of animal that are known for their gentle temperament are potential biters. Any dog can become annoyed and agitated during hot weather, when they are eating, sleeping or with their puppies. Amongst the number of people bitten by dogs is an alarming amount of children. 70% of all dog attacks are on children with 77% of the animals known to the child.

Children are attacked by dogs for several reasons. Firstly, their inexperience and trusting nature can result in an angry dog; they are not aware that dogs can be dangerous, as the family pet is often well loved by children. They may irritate a dog without realising it by playing and stroking a dog that is feeding or sleeping. It is not advisable to leave a child unattended with any animal whether it is the familiar family pet or an unknown dog. The second reason that children are susceptible to dog attacks is their height. A child is often the same height as a dog and young children will come face to face with a dog when standing. Whilst an attack on an adult may result in a bitten arm or leg, an attack on child can lead to serious facial and head wounds.

There are several points that can be followed to help prevent a dog attack on an adult or a child. They are as follows:

? A dog should never be disturbed when it is eating, sleeping or caring for its puppies

? A dog that is tied up behind a fence or in a car shouldn't be approached

? Never touch a dog without letting him see and sniff you first

? You must always ask permission to stroke someone else's dog, some animals don't react well to strangers

? Never approach a strange dog or a dog without its owner

? Never tease a dog by poking it

? Never run away from a dog that is chasing you, stop and stand still and calm and back away from the animal without looking into its eyes. Never scream

? If a dog attacks it is a good idea to put something between you and him such as a jacket or bag

? If a dog attacks you should curl up into a ball and cover your head with your hands

If you own a dog you are responsible for its behaviour and must make sure that there is never a situation where it may bite someone, especially a child. Dogs should be socialised as puppies so that they are used to humans and not just people that are known to them. They should also be trained in the basic commands such as sit and stay. Unfortunately, it is impossible to completely control a dog; a dog that is normally placid and friendly can become aggressive suddenly and without warning. They are hunting animals and their natural instinct is to attack when irritated. When provoked, chased or encouraged to become excitable they are more likely to bite.

If you have been bitten by a dog you should obtain the owners details, including insurance information so that you can make a compensation claim from the owner of the dog. You should seek medical advice if you have serious wounds or wounds that could become infected.

Sadly, dog bites are extremely common, however, if a dog is properly trained and supervised at all times the chance of an accident happening can be minimised. It is also advisable to have adequate insurance that will cover you should your dog bite someone. If you have been bitten by someone else's dog and it can be shown that the dog has been aggressive before, then you can claim compensation for a personal injury. Claiming compensation can help you to get your life back on track and compensate you for any losses incurred, such as loss of earnings or medical expenses.

To make a dog bite compensation claim call YouClaim on 0800 10 757 95 or visit www.youclaim.co.uk to find more information about dog bites and claiming compensation.

Editorial notes: YouClaim provides full accident compensation services. Helps people to claim compensation for all types of injury from whiplash to head injuries.

By Sophie Evans
<a target="_new" href="http://www.youclaim.co.uk">http://www.youclaim.co.uk</a>
Compensation following a non fault accident.

You Should Teach Your Puppy Proper Chewing Behavior

As much as you may love your cute, new puppy, if she chews on everything in sight--including you--she will not be cute to you for very long. Puppies that are left to their own devices can destroy a home quickly. Just as training is required to housebreak your little fur ball, training is also necessary to teach them appropriate chewing behaviors.

Many believe the longer a pup is allowed to stay with her mother and siblings, the better she will behave. It seems that puppies younger than eight weeks--who are taken from their mother--exhibit a more aggressive form of chewing and biting over those pups which are separated after the two-month mark.

Pups learn from the day they are born what is expected of them. Most pups find their mother is very tolerant of being chewed and gnawed on. However, as the pup grows and those sharp little teeth start coming in, the mother dog starts setting the limit on how much nipping she will tolerate, especially if she has a large litter using her for a chew toy! The mother dog will usually get up and leave the area which will eventually teach the little squirts to be gentle with her.

This is usually when the pups start rough housing and playing with their litter mates. Nothing is more enjoyable than watching a pile of pups roll, tumble, and clumsily play with each other. Nevertheless, it is important to understand what is taking place during this time. What looks like good old puppy fun to us is truly a necessary part to a dog's development. During this time with siblings, puppies are learning their place in the &quot;pack.&quot; They are figuring out who is the boss, and they are testing their limits with each other.

When a puppy nips or chews on their sibling too hard, they are shocked when their sibling lets out a yelp. One of two things usually occurs at this point. The hurt sibling will either fight back and nip their sibling in return even harder, or the hurt pup will refuse to play with the biter any longer. Both of these approaches work to teach pups how to interact. When pups are taken from their mother and litter mates too soon, they miss out on this much needed character and personality training.

If your puppy is chewing everything in site, it can be very frustrating. Who wants to come home to find an expensive pair of shoes torn apart or feathers from pillows floating in the air? I know of one particular couple who came home to find their entire couch shredded down to the springs. Their two pups were snoozing in the midst of all the mess oblivious to their naughty deed. Also, it is hard for children and adults to be around a puppy who thinks that fingers, toes and pant legs are an invitation for teething and biting. Situations like this are why many pups find themselves banned to the outdoors, or locked in a crate for hours on end, while their owners are at work.

It is important to understand that teething is as natural to a puppy as teething is to a human infant. It is just a fact of life. You cannot expect your puppy to not want to chew. It helps her teeth come through the gums, and it also promotes the development of her adult teeth under the gums. Puppies see no differentiation between a bone and a hairbrush. Both serve the purpose to a puppy. In fact, most puppies will sometimes seek out items that have their owners scent if they are having separation anxiety. So, it is important that you teach your pup from day one proper chewing behaviors. If not, your puppy will assume everything in the home is at her disposal whenever it suits her.

The best advice is to go out and purchase your puppy some chew toys. These toys should be mentally stimulating to your pup. If not, your pup will soon tire of them and return to the piano leg! Some chew toys can even be purchased which have treats inside. These treats take some work to get to. Your pup can spend hours figuring out how to chew on these toys in the right manner to reach the yummy inside. Once your puppy has learned there are items in her home which provide her with a snack, she will tire of your shoes, furniture and clothing. It is good to stock up on the chew toys which seem to stimulate your pup and occupy her time the most. You should only leave one or two of these out at a time. You should also rotate the toys to ensure she doesn't get bored.

The important thing to remember about chew toys is that you should not purchase ones that have a hidden bell or other device which can pose as a choking hazard. You should also avoid toys that have been chemically treated.

When your pup gets overly rambunctious and starts nipping and chewing on you, you should handle the situation like her mother and litter mates would. This is especially important if you have a pup which was taken from its mother and siblings rather early. When your pup starts nibbling on your person, or clothing, you should let out a noise that lets her know it hurt. This is not a problem if she has actually nipped at your skin! But, you should also put on your acting hat and let out a yelp if she is pulling on your shoe laces or pant leg. When you do this, it will usually startle her. You should immediately walk away from your dog, or leave her in the area alone.

It will take consistency and repetition for your puppy to get the message that what she is doing is wrong. However, if she is a slow learner, you can let out your &quot;yelp&quot; and put her in her crate. You shouldn't be harsh about the manner, as this will only confuse her. Once she is in her crate, she may turn on the tears and start trying to manipulate you with her whiney groans of dissatisfaction. When this occurs, you should never take her out. Wait until she has stopped her tantrum and then release her. When you let her out, be affectionate with her and let her know all is well. You should not hold a grudge, as your dog is incapable of understanding why you are angry. Also, when you place her in her crate, it should only be for a few minutes . . . unless she is having a full-blown tantrum. Then you should wait until she quiets. If you are consistent with this approach, your pup will soon learn that when she nips, chews or bites she will have to go to time out.

Puppies love to be handled and may affectionately want to play with you like she would her litter mates. It is perfectly fine for a pup to want to lick or even playfully hold your fingers in her mouth as you play. This is normal, and a form of bonding. However, any form of aggression or pressure should be promptly discouraged. Puppies usually learn by four months what is appropriate in regards to chewing . . . if their owners are consistent with training.

Author Ian White is founder of Dog-Breeders.biz. This extensive online directory includes listings by private breeders, kennel clubs, and occasional hobby or family breeders. Those seeking dogs can locate and match with appropriate breeders. Dog- Breeders.biz automates the matching of dogs for sale with dog wanted entries, with daily email notifications to all parties. <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-breeders.biz">Dog lovers and breeders find more information </a>

Crate Training Dogs: The Right Way and the Wrong Way - Part One

Part1: There is Actually a "Wrong" Way to Crate Train

Crate training dogs, (or crate training puppies) if approached correctly is by far one of the most effective tools you can use to form good dog behavior.

The most subtle mistakes in crate training are sometimes the worst because they go undetected and are repeated over and over again which can make the whole experience of potty training dogs negative and frustrating.

Using the correct method of crate training you can avoid subtle mistakes and have your puppy or dog's training move along quite smoothly.

Even though crate training dogs is by far the best way to potty train, it can backfire if not done correctly. This is why there are so many pet owners who attempt crate training and wonder why they're still having problems; because there is a right way and a wrong way to approach the whole process.

My proven methods of crate training make this stage both a positive and rewarding experience for both you and your puppy (or dog).

A Basic Understanding:
---------------------

The first step in puppy training or dog training is to learn how your puppy or dog is viewing things, what actually forms his puppy behavior and what you can do to appropriately shape it.

By understanding the canine mindset better, you can make the process a lot easier and faster, which in turn makes it a lot more fun and rewarding for both you and your puppy.

So in order to be successful in crate training dogs or puppies, a basic understanding of "natural" puppy behavior is needed. Here are a few examples:

1. Dogs cannot view things the way we do; and in fact many times situations are just the opposite of what it looks like from our perspective.

2. Dogs do not make connections between cause and effect when any amount of time has passed.

3. Dogs do not understand the spoken language unless it's paired consistently with something meaningful to them.

4. Dogs are frightened and confused by anger that humans display.

5. When a dog experiences fear and confusion as a result of a human getting angry with him this also slows down the dog's learning process since effective learning cannot take place under these conditions.

What Dogs Do Understand:
------------------------

Some of what dogs and puppies do understand is:

* Instinct and self preservation-(neither of which they have conscious control over)

* Immediate consequence to action

* Positive rewards

* Tone of voice

* Some body language

And they are effected by our emotions even when they don't understand them.

Dogs and puppies respond more quickly and more reliably to positive incentives than to fear or punishment. And in dealing with puppies, fear and punishment can and will damage their personalities for life.

In many cases, punishment tactics actually cause behavioral problems, can compound existing ones, and can even bring about the opposite behavior than what we are trying to achieve.

Crate training dogs and crate training puppies using positive behavior shaping methods allows you to effectively train your pet without having to use punitive measures at all.

Kathleen Amaro is the owner of <a target="_new" href="http://www.puppy-potty-training.com">http://www.puppy-potty-training.com</a>. Her instantly downloadable ebook "25 Secrets to Raising the Perfect Puppy" not only tells you how to raise the perfect puppy, it presents the exact methods of how to <a href="http://www.puppy-potty-training.com">crate train</a> your puppy or dog using only positive and healthy learning techniques.

Dogs and Old Age, How To Care For Your Aging Canine

Now that you're dog has shown you so much love and brought you so much joy throughout your many years together, it's time that you return the favor when the dog reaches his elder years. Caring for an older dog is much like caring for an elderly person. Knowing how to do that will help comfort your dog immensely.

What's old for a dog?

The first thing that you've probably heard is the seven-year rule (that your dog ages seven times faster than a human). While this is pretty much accurate, some dogs (or breeds of dogs) show signs of aging earlier than others. So, you're going to have to know what signs to look for to ascertain whether your dog has officially reached his &quot;golden years.&quot;

Senility is not just for humans.

If your dog is older than seven (human years), then he's officially becoming older. While some dogs may show signs far after seven, you may notice some of the following characteristics once he reaches an older age. You may notice that your dog has lost some of his housetraining skills. He may soil or wet the area, especially through the night when lying down. He may have trouble chewing food due to loose teeth and sore gums. He may suffer from cataracts or even partial or full blindness. He may gain weight more easily. Weigh your dog every couple of months. If you notice large lumps under his skin, it's advised that you consult your veterinarian, as this may be a sign of a possible tumor or cancer. Your dog may even become grumpier.

While it's impossible to cure all of the maladies that accompany age, you can comfort your dog and make his older life enjoyable.

Medication can help

There are many drugs out there that can help your dog. While it's not advised to give your pet too many medications, there are some that can help if he's suffering joint or hip pain. If your dog seems extra tired or sore one day, go ahead and skip his daily exercise routine. If it last more than a couple of days, talk with your vet. Install a partial ramp over the steps to and from your house so that your dog doesn't have to deal with the harsh incline on his joints. Massage and rub your dog's muscles. Studies have shown that physio- or hydrotherapy can be extremely beneficial in your dog's elder years.

Grooming offers relief

Be sure to clip your older dog's nails as he probably doesn't run about as much as when he was younger. The nails won't naturally keep trimmed down, so you'll have to be sure to keep his nails under control. If you don't want to do it yourself, veterinarians usually provide this service. Your dog may become senile. While this is normal, some cases are so severe that they are compared to Alzheimer's. There are dog drugs, like those given to human Alzheimer's patents that have proven effective.

Routines are welcome

Be sure that you keep your dog on a regular routine. Exercise him daily. Control his weight. Buy high-quality food and groom, pet and cuddle with your dog frequently. Visit your vet at least once a year to screen for diseases. Buy an orthopedic bed mat for your older dog.

Disabilities can occur

If your dog is blind or nearly there, you can make a home solution of vinegar mixed with water to spray (about nose high) onto door frames and sofas so he doesn't run into them. Also, don't move furniture around. For deaf dogs, tell everyone (especially children), not to approach your dog too quickly. Be sure that the dog sees anyone coming towards him.

Caring for an older dog can be just as hard as caring for a puppy. Your dog will take kindly to the adaptations you've made, which will make his &quot;golden years&quot; truly shine.

About the Author:
Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-gifts-and-toys-for-dog-lovers.com">Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers</a>.

Copyright 2005. All rights reserved.

Helping Your Pets Cope With The Stress Caused By Loud Noise

Which is the noisiest species of all? Nope, not the lions, or the elephants, or the geese? it's us, humans. Our voices were not enough, we started making music and creating musical instruments to help us being louder.

This Holiday season will not only be noisy, this year we're starting earlier because this year we have Election Day! Where I'm from, we go to the streets and make loud noises with our car horns after the results are official and we know our party won, maybe you're so excited because you know your candidate is going to win, that you are already prepared with everything to celebrate your triumph the noisiest way, but have you thought about how that noise affects your pet?

Pets don't understand what is happening, even if you dress them with a patriotic costume. They don't know this are &quot;happy&quot; noises, they just perceive them as a sign of danger. They get nervous, afraid, and if they feel they're exposed they will try as hard as they can to look for a hideout, sometimes this means they run away.

What can you do to minimize the effect of loud noises on your pet?

1.Ask your veterinarian if it's recommended to give your pet a mild sedative, be sure to ask for the correct dose depending on the pet's weight. There are natural remedies to cope with stress for pets you should consider those too.

2.Keep your pet in a room in which he/she feels safe. Put there his/her bed, fresh water, food and make sure the room has proper ventilation, but that the pet is not capable to escape.

3.If you have to leave your pet outside, check all fences for loose parts or openings and fix them in order to prevent your pet from escaping through them.

4.Keep your vet's phone number at hand in case of an emergency.

5.Make sure your pet wears his/her collar with ID tag at all times, and that the contact information in the tag is updated.

6.Keep a recent and clear photo of your pet available, in the event of your pet getting lost, you can make flyers and post them everywhere. Remember that a frightened pet can run long distances so he/she may end up far from home and don't know his/her way back. Send the photo to your local paper too, they must have a missing pets section and it can reach more people than the flyers.

Remember this is only the beginning, later comes, Christmas, New Year, 4th of July? Keep these precautions at hand and your pet will do fine.

Mariangie Gonzalez has a major in Animal Science and Pre-Veterinary and runs the day-to-day operations of her home-based business and website in which you can learn how homeopathic remedies could prolong and improve your pet's life. She can also help you start your own home-based 100% natural pet supplies business, you can visit online at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.MindBodyAndPaw.com">http://www.MindBodyAndPaw.com</a>

Are Exotic Cats a Threat to Public Safety? Why Exotic Pets Are Not Dangerous

I would like to address some of the statements I have found on the web and in proposed ban bills portraying servals and other small wild felines as unpredictable and dangerous creatures. This is a clear case of "what you don't know you will fear." First of all, I would like to clarify for everyone that we are talking about tame, hand-raised pets bred in the United States. It's not like you take a trip to Africa, rope yourself a serval, and drag it home hissing and spitting!

In his best-selling book Fear Less, security and threat analysis expert Gavin de Becker writes &quot;Unfortunately, when it comes to security, the American way has often been to implement procedures that are more relevant to assuaging public anxiety than they are to reducing risk.&quot; Ban laws are a prime example of an action that may ease anxiety, but fail to make the nation safer.

By saying that tame wild cats are "extremely unpredictable and dangerous creatures," people show their lack of understanding of animal behavior. These statements are wild exaggerations of the reality. Even wild animals in-situ (i.e. roaming untamed in the wilderness) do not behave in a dangerous, unpredictable fashion. Every animal has species-specific behavior patterns. These behaviors can be learned and understood by the owners of such animals in captivity, especially since they are very similar to the behaviors of a domestic cat.

These behaviors are not greatly different from domesticated animals. For example, the pattern of naturally occurring behaviors in wolves and domestic dogs is virtually identical. A poorly socialized domestic dog with a careless or un-informed owner can be far more "dangerous" than a serval or a caracal.

Our society's standard for a safe and lovable pet predator seems to be the domestic dog. However, even man's self-proclaimed best friend has been known to injure and sometimes kill us. Statistics suggest that between 2 and five million dog bites occur yearly. In fact, during the five-year period between 1989 and 1994, domestic dogs killed 45 children. Why doesn't this sad figure shock us more deeply?

Maybe it has something to do with the fact that during a similar length of time, an estimated 4,605 children were killed by humans (Lindsay, Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training). Approximately 5 children lose their lives every day due to maltreatment and child abuse homicide (U.S. Advisory Board on Child Abuse and Neglect, 1995).

To further put this in perspective, we must now consider the fact that even with the enormous number of dog bites each year and the number of fatalities due to dog bites, a child is statistically safer in the presence of the average pet dog than with its own family! The number of children murdered each year by their own parents and guardians overwhelmingly overshadows the number of people killed by dogs. We ourselves are the most dangerous and unpredictable animal on the planet.

Am I saying that servals and other exotic cats are not dangerous? No, if we define &quot;dangerous&quot; as having the potential to cause injury to a human being. Every animal can be dangerous, and every human can be dangerous. One thing I teach my dog behavior clients is that all dogs have the potential to bite. They will show aggression if placed in the wrong situation, just as even the most benevolent of humans will react with violence when sufficiently provoked.

However, these cats are certainly no more inherently dangerous than a domestic dog of comparable size. In fact, they are probably safer than domestic dogs; there has never been a report of a serval killing a human being, and their owners are generally very responsible about keeping them controlled.

Whether a dog, a person, or an exotic cat eventually injures someone depends on an uncertain balance of genetics, temperament, environment, and the unique circumstances they find themselves in.

Horseback riding is an example of a far more hazardous animal-related activity. In fact, many stables and equine event centers post signs informing patrons that participation in equine activities is inherently dangerous. According to the National Center for Health Statistics, 1218 people died while riding an animal between 1983 and 1994.

Horses have been known to viciously attack and kill their handlers and even people entering their pastures. A single kick from a horse can cause serious injuries or death. Horses are so powerful that even the strongest person stands no chance of restraining one if it is determined to break loose. When frightened, they flee and can easily trample one to death. Yet, horseback riding remains a popular youth sport.

Why doesn't the neighbor's 1200 pound horse or his Great Dane inspire as much fear as his cougar? I think two factors are involved: fear of the unknown and fear of predators. One of man's most primal fears is that of being eaten by a wild animal, of being the hunted rather than the hunter. Police canine units are so effective in subduing violent individuals that officers report that criminals are often more afraid of a dog than a gun. Offenders are more willing to risk death than a non-fatal bite from a German Shepherd.

Horses and dogs are deeply familiar to us; we've lived with them for centuries, watched them on TV, read cute and fuzzy stories about them, and associate them with companionship and service. When one happens to attack or kill us, we see it as an anomaly.

We know little of exotic cats through direct experience; for most of us, exposure is limited to nature programs emphasizing their killing power and the occasional sensational news article announcing the mauling of some hapless zoo employee. When you think about it, it comes as no surprise that we develop a disporportionate fear of these animals.

The text of a failed Oregon ban bill stated &quot;It is almost impossible for an exotic animal to adapt to traditional household settings&quot; and that &quot;Exotic animals are by nature wild and dangerous and do not adjust well to captivity.&quot; These statements are both contradicted by the many thousands of examples of exotic companion animals living healthy, happy lives with Americans nationwide.

I would challenge anyone who truly believes those words to observe my serval Sirocco as he greets me with ecstatic purring and rubs against my legs when I come home from work, and then to watch him curl up beside me purring and licking my face as we watch a movie together. This is not rare; in fact it is typical of the experiences of the majority of exotic cat owners. This cat is as much a member of my family as the domestic dogs and cats you yourself may have lived with and loved.

The failed Oregon HB 3065 stated, &quot;This 2003 Act being necessary for the immediate preservation of the public peace, health, and safety, an emergency is declared to exist.&quot; There is no emergency. Try to find any evidence of a public health or safety crisis being caused by the ownership of exotic animals. I assure you that you will find none. The number of people in the general public killed by escaped exotic cats in the past decade, across the entire United States, is believed to be zero. This includes not only small felines like servals, caracals, and bobcats but also lions, tigers, and cougars.

Now turn your attention to how much death and destruction has been caused by drunken drivers, parole violators, shoddy building contractors and even catholic priests. Shouldn't we as a country focus our efforts on legitimate public safety threats, rather than discriminating against the safe and legitimate activities of the citizens?

These bills are redundant. There are already laws in place providing for the criminal prosecution of those whose actions (and the actions of their animals) recklessly endanger the public. Our civil system is already a more than adequate means to punish those whose animals harm or otherwise disturb members of the public and to provide restitution to those who have been harmed. The extremely low number of incidents involving exotic animals proves the effectiveness of these current laws.

This article may be reprinted in its entirety only. Permission is not granted to reproduce in edited form or to support the ending of exotic pet ownership.

For information on wild and exotic cats from servals to tigers as pets, visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.exoticcatz.com">http://www.exoticcatz.com</a>. The site includes articles on care, behavior, housing, and legal issues as well as species profiles and photos.

This article may be reprinted in its entirety only. Permission is not granted to reproduce in edited form or to support the ending of exotic pet ownership.

Bark Collars: Stop Unwanted Dog Barking

<h2>Bark Collars</h2>

Many pet owners become lost as to what to do when their dog is barking and nothing seems to stop him. Maybe it doesn't even bother the pet owner himself, but the neighbors are complaining. What can be done? A bark collar is one method to help control a dog's barking. Bark collars are used to stop a dog from barking, but should be used as a last resort.

While it may be inconvenient to the dog's owner, bark is part of owning a dog. It comes with the territory, so to speak. Understanding why your dog barks may help you realize what needs to be done. Often, the only thing that can be done is to use a bark collar. Here's how they work.

Suppose that while a dog owner is away from home, neighbors complain that the barking is unbearable. Perhaps a dog barks quite a bit at night and this leads neighbors to report the owner. Using a bark collar can help eliminate this. The collar is placed on the dog either all the time or during certain times that the pet owner wishes to stop the dog's barking. When the dog barks, a very small amount of electric stimulation which is similar to static shock is sent through the bark collar to the dog. While it is uncomfortable, it is not harmful. The dog barks again, and again, the collar sends the stimulation. The dog starts to relate the stimulation to the bark and will eventually stop barking.

A bark collar is a bark collar. It will do its job and eliminate or lessen the amount of barking a dog does. Deciding when to use a bark collar is the decision only the pet owner can make. A recommendation to use a bark collar is not bad, but it may be necessary. Should the dog keep barking and causing the pet owner's neighbors to report it, can lead the animal to being removed. If a bark collar can stop this, it may be necessary. But, before resorting to this level, a pet owner should try to find out why his dog is barking. Using a bark collar sparingly or only during specific times may also lessen the effects on the dog. While a great tool, the decision to use a bark collar should be thought about first.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net">http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net</a>

Byron Pappageorge

Safety Tips for Moving With Pets

Which kind is your pet? The pooch who is the first one in the car when the door opens, or the kitty who runs to hide at the first hint of travel? Both kinds face dangers on the road, but there are steps you can take to protect them. Even the happiest traveler can get into trouble, and it can happen even on a short jaunt to the grocery store.

What can you do?

1. Always use ID tags. When traveling, add an extra tag with your cell phone number. If you don't use a cell phone, add the number of a trusted friend who will be at home while you're on the road.

2. If your pets are microchipped, be sure to call and update your address and phone number. If they aren't microchipped, consider having it done.

3. Keep your pet contained. The back of a pickup is NOT a safe place, but if your pet must travel there, either put him in a secure carrier, or cross tie him so there's no chance that he can fall or be thrown over the side. Falling from trucks is a major cause of lost and/or injured pets. Sometimes the fall is fatal. Also, remember that the temperature of your metal pickup bed corresponds to the weather. Use a liner so that you don't burn his feet, or freeze them!

4. While a few cats travel well in cars and stay put, they should ride in a carrier so they can't jump out when the door opens and can't suddenly decide to ride under the driver's feet or around his or her neck.

5. If at all possible, contain your dogs in a carrier inside the car. This is a safety precaution for both you and the dog.

6. Remember the heat factor. Don't take your pet if you'll have to stop for more than 5 minutes on a hot day. Temperatures inside your vehicle can reach killer heights in a matter of minutes. You love him?don't cook him! Cold weather holds a similar danger for your short haired friends.

7. Take water and a water dish! When you reach for a drink remember your pet probably needs one too.

8. When you stop for a potty break, keep your pet on a leash. Even the most well trained dog can become frightened and bolt. You don't want your best friend running in traffic, and you don't want him lost up a mountain side or wandering in a strange city.

9. Don't discount anxiety. For pets who don't like to ride, anxiety comes from the trip itself. Moving to a new home can cause emotional upset for ALL pets. Your vet can prescribe a sedative for extreme anxiety, and there are also homeopathic products to help calm their nerves. Check at your nearest pet store.

10. Plan ahead and be sure to take medical records on long trips or moves. If you're missing any vaccination certificates, ask your vet for copies. You may have to give proof of vaccinations if crossing state lines. If you're relocating, your new veterinarian will want to know your pet's medical history, when he had his last vaccinations, etc. Proof of rabies protection is vital at this time, because an emotionally distraught pet could bite. (Yes, even your dog who has never hurt a fly.) Without proof of a rabies vaccination the dog would have to be quarantined, if not put down.

Moving day is a dangerous time for your pets. Take these additional precautions:

Containment: Do NOT try to keep an eye on the dog and cat and the moving all at the same time. Doors will be opening constantly and no one can watch every minute.

If your new home has a secure fenced yard in an area where the movers (or the family) will not need to go back and forth, it could be a safe place, but check often. Stop occasionally to give a treat or throw a ball? let him know that this is an OK place and that you are nearby.

If you own a kennel cage, put it up first and put your dog inside until things settle down. Be sure to stop and talk to him now and then.

If you own kennels that your pets use for sleeping or riding, place them in the quietest room of the house and put your pets in them until the movers have left or everything is unloaded. Leave the cats in their travel carriers until you're sure the doors won't be opened by movers.

If you have no fenced yard and your dog is accustomed to staying home without one, be sure to go outside with him the first several days. If you must leave him outside alone, tie him on a long chain or cable tie. (Not a rope - they are too easily chewed.) You and the dog may hate the idea, but his safety is worth a few days of discomfort.

Anxiety:

If your dog sees his role in life as protector, he or she will hate the movers being there and handling your belongings. Put him in the back bedroom or the yard where he can't see what's going on. Don't let him follow them back and forth, because this is a sure formula for disaster. You don't need your dog being lost or hurt, and you don't need to deal with your insurance over a dog bite. Remember, even the calmest dog WILL BITE if severely provoked.

Remember that moving to a new home is traumatic for your pets. After things settle down on moving day let them take a tour of the house, with you along acting relaxed and happy. Don't transmit your fatigue to your pets!

Understand that your housebroken friend may relapse at this time. If your new home was formerly occupied by other pets yours may feel a need to &quot;mark&quot; their territory. Not a pleasant thing, and not to be condoned, but don't go ballistic on them. If it appears that marking will be an ongoing problem you may have to shampoo the carpets with a special shampoo designed to kill the odors left by previous pets.

Marte Cliff is a Freelance Copywriter and co-founder of the Animal Rescue group in her hometown. She offers discounted rates for rescue groups needing fundraising letters and/or newsletters. You can visit her at <a target="_new" href="http://www.marte-cliff.com">www.marte-cliff.com</a>

A Guide to Successful Obedience Training

Showing off your dog in front of friends and family is something that I personally love to do. Having an obedient, happy slab of lab is like having an obedient happy child. Have you ever been in a supermarket only to come across a screaming baby and a blushing parent? I know I have, and my first reaction is to get as far away from the disturbing scene as possible. I have also been in the undesirable situation of being in public with an unobedient dog and I can say, I feel the pain of the frantic parent!

The term, "A happy dog is an obedient dog" is one that I really believe holds a lot of merit due to its simplicity. If you have a relatively well behaved dog, that interacts well with the family, it is fair to say that rarely will you or anyone else in that family be angry or even worse abusive towards your pet. On the other hand if your dog is not obedient to a satisfactory level, and does not interact well with the family, one can say that members of that family will have a hard time coping with the pet and this trend can only escalate only leading to the eventual departure of the pet from the family.

When teaching your dog basic obedience, it is wize to make sure that you first have an understanding of the art yourself. Like people, dogs have unique personalities none of which are the same, and it is a good trainer that will take the time to figure out the dog before trying to figure out how to best approach introducing basic obedience. Furthermore, there are many external resources out there for you to take advantage of in order to help you understand the art of training. Books, articles, Obedience Instructors, and the internet, are all viable sources that you should take advantage of when seeking advice, or just experiences from others in your situation.

Below I have listed my top ten components to keep in mind when working with your dog. I did not rank them, as they are all very important to keep in mind as they will only aid you in bonding, understanding, and interacting positively with your four-legged friend:

- Know what your doing. Before comensing any type of training, do your research first! To offen, pet owners try to do all the work their way, get frustrated and take out their frustrations on their pet. Having an understanding of the methodology behind the many types of training, will benefit you to know end.

- Consistancy. Being consistent with your approach is very very important when dealing with your dog in any aspect of life. When working with your dog try to use the same approach each time. Changing training methods mid session for example will only confuse your dog even more than he-she already is. Furthermore, set up training time at least twice a day, and keep to these times. Training time is important, the more sessions you set up the more productivity you can expect in the long run.

- Keep your sessions short. The attention span of a dog is frail at the best of times, thus it is crutial to keep the sessions short. Remember keep the sessions short but do not sacrifice content. Rome was not built in a day.

- Keep training sessions fun. Dogs as do people, like to have fun, and why shouldn??t they? Training can be fun for you and your pet! Be lively, treat good behavior, praise your dog to no end, make him feel like he is the best dog in the world, even if he's not!

- Never punish your pet for what they don't know! To offen, I have seen people talk to their pet with the understanding that their beloved dog is a master of the English language, only to punish them when the desired response is not carried out. This really bothers me because it shows me that that person would rather bully their pet into submitting than taking the time to research, develop and implicate an approach to help the dog learn the desired response to certain words or phrases. (No Hungmay Kowaisa!( Did you understan that? Well you would if you researched the Korean language??

- Train to your dog's strength. As stated above every dog has its own unique personality, therefore we must identify characteristics of our pets in order to take advantage of them in our training sessions. If your pet is very lively, take advantage of that! During training sessions, be lively yourself! Match your dogs enthusiasm, when your happy, your pet will be happy and your pet will be very happy come training time. If your dog has a laid back shy personality, take this into account when training. Still be lively and upbeat as this will spark the interest of your dog, however keep in mind that due to his/her personality, displaying comprehention may take longer due to the shy nature of your dog. It is really important to make a shy laid back dog feel super great during training sessions as this can only improve your chances of continuing successful training.

- Incorperate training into your everyday routine. It can be very beneficial to perform individual obedience exercises through out the day. Simply by performing the sit exercise while you brush him, or having the dog sit while you attach his leash can help to imprint the sitting position. Keep little things like this in mind as they can only aid you and your pet.

- Be patient. Remember you are trying to teach your dog! Your dog is a non-english speaking individual, lacking house manners, behavioral skills, curticy, do I need to continue?? Take your time, play to your dog??s strength, praise, respect, keep sessions short and compact, and have fun!

- Empithize with your dog. The best example I can think of for this suggestion, is going to a foreign country and trying to comprehend what people are saying. Somebody will come up to you and start rambling on in a foreign tongue and you have no clue what they are saying. Your dog is in the same predicament with you. When you start training your dog, he-she has no clue on earth what you are saying. How is he-she supposed to respond if he-she doesn't know what you want? As in the above example, the more time you spend in the foreign country, the more familiar you become with the language. You can apply the same principle with your dog. More training leads to more comprehention, leading to the end result, an obedient dog.

- Reward good bahavior. The best way to reinforce good behavior is to reward it. Others may disagree with this statement, but through my experience with my own dog and others around me, I have found that rewarding good behavior can only aid in maintaining that behavior. In my opinion, the best way of rewarding good behavior is through offering toys or treats. Praise is also worthy but would you rather have an icecream cone, or a good handshake? I personally love icecream and would pick that over a handshake anyday. Your dog is driven by his belly in most cases, and you can achieve astonishing success by baiting your dog with the occasional russle of the treat bag.

For more great articles and tons of other great dog info, visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.web-rover.com">Dog forum</a> or visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.petsblogs.com">Pet blog</a>

Buy Dog Travel Supplies Online

Dog Travel Supplies

The shopping part along for dog travel supplies is amusing for sure. The trinkets, toys and accessories for pet product travel are a blast. Grab your favorite drink, your mouse and grease up that shopping finger and off we go to review those dog travel supplies.

We found, while shopping for Charlie pet harnesses that combine safety with convenience. The step-in padded harness is easy to fasten to your best pet friend and can also be used as a walking harness. The strap plugs into the car's seat belt buckle receptacle. It's recommend that for all pet travel you harness your doggie while driving for the protection of passengers and your little best pet friend.

Then add a nice durable car seat cover to protect your upholstery and everyone's a happy camper. These covers fit most vans, trucks, SUV's and cars with bench or fold-down seats. The outer shell is 100% polyester with a layer of foam for cushion and comfort. One side is a tan, soft pile and reversible to a durable gray polyester weave. Easy to care for, simply hand wash with a mild detergent soap and line dry. Measures 48"x 60".

Tip: Vehicle barriers and harnesses should always be used when traveling with your dog in a car, van or SUV. They not only protect your dog, but you and your passengers as well.

Pet barriers will fit either your Car, Van or Suv. Vehicle barriers should always be used when traveling with your doggie in the car, van or SUV. They not only protect your best pet friend, but you and your passengers as well. The different styles of pet barriers will allow you to fill your needs. There are barriers for small cars, mini and full size vans and SUV's.

We also needed a pet ramp and found training Charlie to use it was pretty simple.Charlie adapted to the ramp easily but we've been told that some of our doggies don't, we suggest you put the ramp flat on the ground & walk your pet friend over it (a reward placed on the ramp also helps or you might try feeding him on the ramp once or twice). When you raise the ramp, your pets favorite treat placed towards the top of the ramp also works the first time.

We had fun snooping around for dog travel supplies. Our pets always have softened our hearts, put smiles on our faces and even released stress as our minds went shopping for our family's best pet friend. Sit back, relax and enjoy yourself after-all think of all the joy those lovable pets of ours bring into our lives.

More dog goodies and information can be found at <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-stuff4u.com">http://www.dog-stuff4u.com</a>

Help Your Dog Become a Good Canine Citizen

Is your dog a gentleman or lady? If so, you may be able to get an award to prove it from the American Kennel Club (AKC) through its Canine Good Citizen Program.

This certification program is for all dogs, whether purebred or mutt. Any dog who has completed his vaccinations can be tested, and there is no upper age limit.

Ten behaviors are tested:

1. Accepting a friendly stranger

2. Sitting politely for petting

3. Letting someone brush and groom him

4. Walking on a loose leash

5. Walking through a crowd

6. Staying in place (sit and down)

7. Coming when called

8. Reacting to another dog

9. Reacting to distractions

10.Being separated from owner for 3-minutes.

If your dog can't pass these, you need to initiate a training program. These are the social skills required for living with humans in urban America.

The tests are done at dog shows, community colleges and private training facilities. The AKC charges $5 for the certificate (if you pass) and some organizations charge a nominal amount for the test ($10).

To find a location, go the AKC website at

I'm really, really encouraging you to take advantage of this program.

You owe it to your dog to assure that he can survive in an urban setting and that he remains adoptable by someone else if something happen to you. Not everyone would put up with a nippy, barking, high-strung dog who thinks he's the king of household.

Your participation also encourages the AKC to continue this program. It's been around since 1989 but hasn't been publicized the way it should.

The AKC raises more than $50M a year from registration fees and does a lot of great work for purebreds.

The Canine Good Citizen is a way for them to help all dogs and dog owners no matter what they're background - something not all AKC members support.

More participation will ensure funding continues and the AKC expands the program.

We're also hopeful that insurance companies and landlords will start accepting the certificates and giving homeowners or renters a break on insurance rates or damage deposits.

With the increase in "dangerous breed" laws and rising homeowners insurance rates when you have a dog, it's important for all our dogs to be good citizens and respected members of the community.

Louise Louis is a long-time dog person and creator of <a target="_new" href="http://www.ToyBreeds.com">http://www.ToyBreeds.com</a>

The Top 3 Tricks Horse Owners Can Use To Unspoil A Barn Spoiled Horse

It's been weeks since you went riding. Now you have time to ride this afternoon and there ain't no one gonna stop you. Excited, you saddle up your horse and get on him. You get about 50 feet from the barn and your horse turns around and goes back ? and you can't stop him. Why? You have a barn spoiled horse. This is a common scenario for novice horse owners.

Here are the top three tricks to solve the barn sour problem.

Teach your horse that you have control over him. Once your horse gets it in his mind that you can make him do what you want him to do, you have control over him and can thus make him leave the barn. One way to get control over him is to use a training technique called doubling. When you double your horse you teach him you can control him.

It doesn't take long before your horse will know you can control him. Be careful when doubling though. If you do it too much at a time you can over do it. Your horse could get so sensitive to you doing it that he may try to anticipate it. If he sees your hands making the slightest movement that looks like you're about to double him, he may double himself. Thus, just double him four to six times a day on both sides. He'll quickly learn you have control.

The next thing you can try is this: Make it dang hard to do the wrong thing ? and make it real easy to do the right thing. Here's what I mean. A while back my horse didn't want to leave her buddies or the barn. We'd get about 100 feet away and she'd turn around and bolt back. She'd stop in front of the barn expecting me to get off, remove the saddle and tack, and put her back into the corrals.

By my barn is two hay stacks. There is a space between them big enough to go through and do figure eights around the hay stacks. So every time she'd go back I would make her work, and work, and work at running figure eights around those hay stacks. Then I would test her to see if she had enough and would leave the area.

The first seven times she ran back. Each time we came back to the barn we'd run more laps around the hay stacks. I could tell she was getting tired. But the eighth time I walked her away from the hay stacks I noticed she went quite a ways before turning to go back.

When we went back again we ran more figure eights. Only this time I could tell we didn't have to do too many. I walked her out and away from doing the figure eights and I suddenly had a horse who decided that it was sooo much nicer going for a walk away from the barn rather than doing a bunch of crummy ol' figure eights. We had a nice ride that day and she was in no hurry to get home.

The last thing to do is this: Ride. Ride a lot. Don't wait for weeks or months in between riding. Try to ride at least once per week for three or four hours. Preferably, try to ride at least twice a week for a few hours at a time. (Ideally, you should ride everyday. But that's hard to do with today's time constraints) Doing that your horse will get in his brain that you're going to ride and he's going to leave the barn and there will be no argument. In fact, if you want to have a great horse the biggest secret is this: Ride the heck out him!

So if your horse is barn spoiled you can try doubling him to show you are in control. The next thing you can try is making the wrong thing difficult and the right thing easy. Make it dang hard for him to go the wrong thing and very pleasant to do the right thing. And lastly, ride your horse often. Two to three times a week if possible.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com</a>. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm</a>.

Choosing Between Dog Training Schools and Animal Behavior Specialists

If you are having behavioral issues with your dog that you cannot seem to resolve on your own, getting professional help is an excellent idea. However, there are two different kinds of professionals that can help you with your situation: a Dog Training School, and an Animal Behavior Specialist. Which one is right for you and your pet?

The answer to this question lies in whether or not the behavior that the dog is exhibiting is normal, or explainable. For instance, if a dog is threatened in a violent manner (horrible to think about, but it does happen), then it would be appropriate for the dog to bite in retaliation. However, if a dog starts biting you after you feed him a treat, this isn't as easily explained. In this second situation, you'd want to access an Animal Behavior Specialist to get some help, instead of one of the many readily available Dog Training Schools.

Most behavioral issues with dogs are related to pet owners who aren't aware as to how to manage their dogs. For instance, jumping on people or things, pulling on their leash, not listening or responding to commands or eliminating in the home are all management issues. These can normally be treated with obedience training through a Dog Training School.

Dog Training Schools are usually staffed with professionals who have received formalized training in the field of animal behavior modification. The methods used in these programs teach you how to think like your dog, and communicate with each other better. They also help your dog to understand his place, what is expected of him, and how to stop negative behaviors, and replace them with positive ones.

If any of these behaviors are apparent in your dog, are causing a problem in your home, you'll need to contact a Dog Training School as soon as you are able, in order to start the training process quickly. These Dog Training Schools can correct behavior in as little as a couple of weeks.

Animal Behaviorists are professionally trained as well, but rather academically rather than vocationally. Their training normally includes some sort of graduate work in psychology, biology, chemistry, neurology, zoology and the like. They will also have specialized training in the types of animals they work with. These professionals are equipped to deal with the more serious of the behavioral issues in a pooch, such as aggression, fears, anxiety or compulsions.

After reading this article, choosing the proper professional to help you help your pet shouldn't be terribly difficult. Now all you need to do is find an appropriate person; ask friends, people who work at the local pet store and your vet for recommendations. Soon the negative behavior will only be a memory in your loved one.

(c) 2005 dog-training-info.com. This article may be republished as long as these bylines are included. Kevin Simmons is the webmaster of <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-training-info.com">http://www.dog-training-info.com</a>. Please visit the site for more free dog training articles. Online URL for this article: <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-training-info.com/dog-training-school.htm">http://www.dog-training-info.com/dog-training-school.htm</a>

Tips on Sexing Discus Fish

Do you have some adult discus fish and want to know whether they are male or female. In this article I'm going to share with you some of the tips and techniques you can use to determine the gender of your discus or those you wish to buy.

First of all, know that these are only guides and they are not always 100% correct as in some circumstances females have male characteristics and males have female ones.

Here are ways to determine the sex of your discus

1, The dorsal and anal fins

Take a good look at the dorsal and anal fins of your discus. Are they rounded or are they pointed. Males tend to have pointed dorsal and anal fins or sometimes have extended growth on the end rear of the dorsal fin. Females tend to have rounds rear fins.

2, The colour and pattern of your discus

Please look at the colour and pattern of your discus fish, compare them to one another in the tank. Some fish will hopefully have more intense colour and some discus will have more pattern. Male discus fish tend to have less intense colour but have more pattern while the female tends to be more colourful but with lesser pattern.

3, Size of the discus

Compare the size of your discus. Male discus tend to be bigger than the females but the size can also depend on whether the fish was stunted or are just small in genetic make up.

I hope these three tips have helped you to sex your discus and will help you when selecting adult discus fish from a shop or dealer.

If you liked this information and want to learn more about discus fish care and breeding discus please check out my website <a target="_new" href="http://www.discus-fish-secrets.com">discus-fish-secrets.com</a>

Rob owns Discus Fish Secrets website helping begginners and advanced fishkeepers with discus problems including keeping and breeding them. Please visit the site for more information on <a target="_new" href="http://www.discus-fish-secrets.com">breeding discus</a>.

Hypoallergenic Dogs

When we talk about hypoallergenic dogs, we mean that they have a less or reduced tendency to cause allergies or allergic reaction among allergy sufferers.

It has been estimated that about 10% of the US population is allergic to animals (American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology). Symptoms of the reactions can range from watery eyes to dangerous asthma attacks.

The problem is not with the pet's hair. It is the dander, or microscopic scales of dead skin (similar to, but much smaller than the dandruff on the human scalp) which pets are constantly shedding that is the cause. They are so tiny that you seldom know that they are circulating in the air or laying on the furniture and carpets because they are so small.

Here is a list of Hypoallergenic Dogs. If I have missed any I do apologize.

American Hairless Terrier
Basenji
Border Terrier
Cairn Terrier
Chinese Crested (hairless)
Havanese
Kerry Blue Terrier
Maltese
Miniature Schnauzer
Portuguese Water Dog
Shih-Tzu
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
Spanish Water Dog
Standard Poodle
Standard Schnauzer
Tibetan Terrier
Toy Poodle
West Highland White Terrier
Wirehaired Fox Terrier
Yorkshire Terrier

Please remember that no dog is 100% hypoallergenic and also that allergic sufferers react differently to each separate breed of dog.

For Westhighland Terriers owners, such as myself, the news is good. They are considered good for allergy sufferers, with a relatively low dander (ranked number 7). However you need to be reminded that one person's allergies may vary greatly from another person. It is always advisable to visit the home of the dog you wish to have, before you bring it home. I hope that you found this article of use to you

Good health and happiness

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

Jeff Cuckson
A Fellow Westies Lover
<a href="mailto:webmaster@madaboutwesties.com">webmaster@madaboutwesties.com</a>

Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest, Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie You Have Ever Dreamed Of! Then Visit NOW! <a target="_new" href="http://www.madaboutwesties.com">http://www.madaboutwesties.com</a>

How To Grow Daphnia For The Aquarium

The benefits of feeding live food to fish in a community tank are many: live food will improve vigor and color, and more closely resemble the food found in the fish's natural habitat. Live food is easily obtained.

Some drawbacks include the transmission of diseases or parasites to the aquarium, it is time consuming to maintain the cultures, and a lot of space needs to be devoted to raising live foods. The cost of equipment and supplies needed to maintain cultures is also a consideration for the beginner.

In this article I will discuss how to raise Daphnia. This article will be part of an on-going series on live foods. You can find many more related articles at http://www.kingdiscus.com.

Daphnia belong to a group known as the Daphniidae, and are close relatives of the freshwater shrimp, and the brine shrimp (Artemia). Their generic name is generally referred to as "water flea." This common name is derived from the jerky movements of Daphnia in the water. The over 150 different species can be found in North America, with a similar amount of species growing in Europe. Some of these species find common ground on both continents.

Daphnia are a small crustacean, and are great to use as a fresh food because they will exist in the tank water until eaten by the fish. Daphnia can also be sterilized if it is felt necessary by placing in a 5% solution of Clorox for 3 to 5 minutes. Very few micro-organisms can survive this. Be sure, however, to rinse them thoroughly before feeding!

Daphnia can be raised both indoors and outside. Many people raise daphnia in a small children's wading pool. A more controlled environment, however, is done indoors, and can be done year round if one lives in northern climes. This can be as simple as a couple of two liter bottles, to a 20 gallon tub purchased from a store such as Menard's. The ideal situation is to have as much oxygenated surface area as possible, so if there is room for a larger container, by all means use it. A shallower environment suits daphnia best for prolific growth.

Setting up the environment for daphnia is quite simple. Many methods are used for collecting the water to use for the culture. The best advice I have heard is from Joe F. of Circle City Aquarium Club in Indianapolis, IN. He gave a presentation at the August meeting of Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, and recommends using tank water saved from a tank change. Joe has been raising live foods for a long time, and has had good success. His video presentation was top notch.

PH levels for successful Daphnia cultures should be in the range of 6-8, and should be more alkaline than acidic. If raised outdoors, no aeration is needed. If raised indoors, aeration should be adjusted to produce large bubbles. Small bubbles in the daphnia culture will cause the bubbles to become lodged in the carapace of the culture, and they will die.

Water temperatures for Daphnia magna are not a high requirement, but the optimal temperature should be in the 64-72 degree range. they are very tolerant to changes in temperature, and can withstand fluctuations down to freezing. In fact, Daphnia can be frozen and kept in the freezer, and then revived when needed. Moina withstand a higher fluctuation in temperature than do D. magna.

Lighting should be in the neighborhood of eight or more hours light per day and light intensity equal to or greater than 850 lux. A simple light and a timer can accomplish this indoors.

Feeding the Daphnia is where most aquarists fail. Daphnia feed on dissolved organic matter, yeast, various groups of bacteria, microalgae, and detritus, or mulm. Organic fertilizers, such as fresh cow manure. It is not recommended by our breeder, though, because of the antibiotics and supplements fed to dairy and beef cattle. A much better mixture is a combination of one tablespoon each of spirulina, soy flour, and active dry yeast, added to a pint of water. This mixture should be added so that the water is cloudy, but you are able to see the bottom clearly, and observe the Daphnia swimming in the culture. This mixture should be added carefully every two or three days, being careful not to over feed. At this time, you should see an abundance of Daphnia, and they can be harvested to feed your fish.

Harvesting is quite simple - simply use a small aquarium net, observing that the smaller Daphnia fall through the netting to grow further. In this way, the adults are harvested, and can be fed to your fish. The younger Daphnia can go on to produce still more fish food. Harvested Daphnia can be kept in the refrigerator for several days in clean water.

Daphnia are high in protein, and a very good diet for tropical fish. Some aquarists feed them exclusively. They provide up to 70% protein to your tropical fish, and are an excellent source of live food for the aquarium.

Much can be written on the culturing of Daphnia. This guide is only meant to help the beginner to live foods to establish a colony, and feed live food high in protein to their fish. A series of article on live foods is forthcoming, and can be viewed at http://www.kingdiscus.com.

Alden Smith is a published author, and has been marketing on the internet for 7 years. Read more articles at his website, <a target="_new" href="http://www.kingdiscus.com">King Discus</a>, an active gathering place for discus breeders and lovers of discus fish. His wife Betsy is the administrator of <a target="_new" href="http://www.allthebestrecipes.com">All The Best Recipes</a> a site rich in free online recipes and cookbooks.

Is He Chasing His Tail? What You Always Wanted To Know About Fleas

My dog has fleas. That one statement is enough to make any visitor to my house run back down the walk to their car.

If you own a pet it's one of those unwritten facts that they will, at one time or another, have fleas. One of the not-so-fun jobs of pet ownership is dealing with an infestation or working to avoid one.

To cope effectively with fleas you should have an understanding of their habits and life cycles. I realize that doesn't sound like fun, sitting-in-front-of-the-fire reading material, but knowing what you're up against is winning half the battle before it starts. So here's the low down on fleas.

Adult flea - lives on the host animal (dog or cat), where the female lays her eggs.

Egg - flea eggs are laid on the animal but fall off into the bedding, carpeting, and elsewhere in the animal's home and hatch into larvae within a few days (depending on heat & humidity).

Larva - flea larvae feed on organic material in the environment and on the droppings from adult fleas. I know it's gross.

As the larvae feed on adult flea droppings, they are found in highest numbers in areas where flea-infested animals spend much of their time.

Pupa - after 5-11 days, the larvae produce a cocoon in which they complete their development. During this stage of their life cycle, fleas are resistant to flea sprays, shampoos, medications,etc.

In ideal conditions, adult fleas hatch from their cocoon in as little as 5 days, although they can live in the cocoon for up to 5 months.

Hatching is brought on by vibration, physical pressure, heat, and air; in other words, the your dog walks in the room, sits down and BAMM.

After hatching, the adult flea finds an animal and within 2 days the female flea begins producing eggs. Fleas can continue to produce eggs for up to 100 days and believe it or not, a single flea can produce thousands of eggs.

I know the whole concept of fleas and their life cycle is gross and personally if I wasn't confronted with our three dogs in constant agony looking at me with those big, sad eyes .. well I'd probably ignore the whole flea thing.

What you do now that you're armed with all this terrific flea knowledge is:

1. Control the fleas on your pet - keep them groomed and use shampoos made for flea control. There are flea medicines that we use in my house. Personally, I prefer "Frontline" because it is a gel and I just rub a little dab at the nape of their neck (do dogs have a nape?) and the fleas are ousted for thirty days or so. You can also get pills like "Program" that control the fleas by sterilizing any female flea that bites your dog.

2. Keep the pet bedding flea-free. This is probably what I had the most trouble with because I have three dogs and they don't sleep in actual beds. But, if you can keep the fleas off the bedding, blankets, carpeting or whatever area they stake-out as their own space, your battle is much easier. Some people even studied fleas and they decided that only about 5% of the adult flea population actually live on your dog. That means the other 95% plus are living either outdoors or in the bedding, carpeting and such.

Don't give up. If you can keep the fleas off your pet or at least under control AND if you are vigilant with the whole bedding issue then fleas won't control your life or that of your dog.

The author of this article, Joanne Robbins is an internet publisher of many sites including <a target="_new" href="http://www.jrsbigdog.com">http://www.jrsbigdog.com</a> where you can find more information about fleas, flea control, selecting the proper pet for your household plus additional health topics. Also read her Blog at <a target="_new" href="http://www.jrsmarketplace.blogspot.com">http://www.jrsmarketplace.blogspot.com</a>

Raw Feed? Are You Joking?

Let's think about this for a minute: God did not design our animals to eat pre-packaged, kibble or pellet-like food. In the wild, dogs don't tell each other, "Hey, I'm hungry, let's go to the pet food store and grab us some lunch." As if!

No, together, they go out and hunt down their food, then dig right in while it's still warm. Sorry about the graphic image, but well, that's nature for you! They also do not stoke up a campfire and sit around singing Kum Bi Ya while the meat gets cooked. Nope they just have at it in the natural raw form.

Now you might be thinking, "Yeah but that's wild animals, not our sweet kitties and dogs." Think again. They are and will always be carnivores. They need raw meat and bones to be healthy with a fully supported immune system. Also the raw, non-weight bearing bones such as the shoulders and backs give dogs and cats strong, clean white teeth eliminating the need for dentals done under anesthesia at a veterinarian's office, something that is not only much riskier but much more expensive than feeding your dogs and cats what they were designed to eat: meat.

Your other pets such as horses, guinea pigs, birds and rabbits also need natural raw food in order to thrive. They do not forage for pellets, let me tell you. Many birds are omnivorous so they'll eat fruits, veggies and meat. While our other furry and feathered friends need to eat fresh fruits and vegetables.

Kim Christopher states, "Proper diet is among the more important considerations in the health maintenance of your pet and essential in the management of many diseases. To feed correctly, a knowledge of dietary nutrients and their availability is important."

And Dr. Russell Swift,"Carbohydrates are not needed by dogs(or cats). Carnivores cannot maintain long term production of the quantity of amylase enzyme necessary to properly digest and utilize the carbohydrates. In addition, the proteins in grains are less digestive than animal proteins. As a result, the immune system becomes irritated and weakened by the invasion of foreign, non-nutritive protein and carbohydrate particles."

So just what do you think most packaged pet foods commonly know as premium kibble contain? Grains. Byproducts. Toxic preservatives.

The question would then arise, if pet food manufacturers know this (they must because they're in business to know) why are these things added to our pet food and why are we told that these packaged foods are so good? Even our mainstream veterinarians are selling these foods to us.

Good questions. Part of the reason is because it's cheaper to use grains and byproducts. Byproducts can be anything we'd normally throw out such as beaks, feathers, feet/hooves, euthanized animals, road kill, you name it. It all gets rendered and added into our packaged pet foods.

Oh but it gets better. These foods are then baked. Here is what Dr. Betty Lewis stated on her website, "What's wrong with commercial foods? The number one item which makes commercial foods inappropriate for pets is that these foods are cooked. No one has ever reported seeing wild animals routinely barbecuing their meals! Raising the temperature of food above 118?F destroys all the enzymes and many of the nutrients."

To top it all off, in order to be able to say that these commercial foods have all the needed nutrients in them, they SPRAY on the nutrients. To get more details on this pick up the book by Ann Martin, Foods Pets Die For.

One of the best things you can do if you're confused about how to get started feeding your pets a natural diet is to first find a holistic veterinarian in your area and then find out what is appropriate for your pet. Homeopathic and holistic vets really adhere and promote the complete natural lifestyle for your pets and can help you put together a diet that will give your pet what he/she needs for full nutritional support.

All the problems we're seeing in our pets: allergies, skin disorders, cancer, diabetes, feather plucking, pulling out furr, etc., can almost alway be attributed to poor nutrition AND to food allergies. Their immune systems are compromised because they are not getting enough nutrition to support themselves which then weakens their immune system. Then we see disease. If the immune system is not supported properly, disease gets a front door welcome into your pets bodies.

So if you want to start seeing your pets live healthier, longer lives and also greatly reduce your vet bills, then switch to a natural, raw food diet. Your pets will love you for it!

References:
http://home.earthlink.net/~pawsreflect/nutrition.html
http://www.raot.org/information/nutrition.htm

About the Author:
Kim Bloomer is a natural pet care educator helping pet owners learn to care for their pets through natural, holistic means. Disease prevention is her goal to help pet owners lower their pet care costs and extend the lives of their pets. Visit her website <a target="_new" href="http://www.aspenbloompetcare.com">Aspenbloom Pet Care</a> and her dog's blog barkin' about natural pet care from a canine perspective <a target="_new" href="http://www.bark-n-blog.com">Bark 'N' Blog</a>

Look for Kim's new book on natural dog health with Dr. Jill Elliot, DVM due for release spring 2006.

How to Feed and Care for Orphaned Kittens

Over the last 15 years, I have raised nine orphaned kittens. Four of them were two weeks old when their mother was killed; three others were only hours old when their mother died; two more kittens fell out of the nest in our barn when they were only a day old.

Raising motherless kittens is not a difficult process, but it does require patience, time and plenty of TLC.

Here are some tips to help you raise your orphaned kittens:

1. Make a nest.

Normally, a mother cat spends many hours a day in the nest with her kittens, which helps her babies stay warm. Keeping the kittens warm is important because if they're not warm enough, they won't want to eat, and in fact, all of their bodily functions will slow down.

To keep your orphaned kittens warm, make a nest in a small box and line it with towels or old t-shirts or sweatshirts to help the babies conserve their body heat. Put a towel over the box to keep out the light. Female cats choose nests that are dark. If you don't have a heat lamp, use a small 40-watt desk lamp and place it several feet above the box to help keep the kittens warm.

If the box is big enough, you can also use a jug or another large container filled with hot water to keep the babies warm. Place the jug in the box and then make a nest with towels beside it. Refill the jug when it cools off. You can use a quart jar as a "hot water bottle" too except that a quart jar cools off very quickly.

2. Use an eyedropper or a syringe to feed the kittens.

The first time I raised orphaned kittens, I discovered that the small nursing bottles available at vet clinics were too big. The kittens couldn't get their mouths around the nipples. So, at first, for newborn kittens, I used an eyedropper. As the kittens grew bigger, a syringe worked very well, the kind of syringe for giving injections (without the needle of course!). I started out with the 3 cc size and used larger syringes when the kittens grew bigger. The tip of a syringe is about the size of a cat's nipple, and my kittens eventually sucked hard enough on the end of the syringe to draw the plunger down by themselves. Check with your vet clinic to see if any used syringes are available or to see if you can buy new syringes from the clinic.

A word of caution: Whether you're feeding with an eyedropper or a syringe, be careful to give only a few drops at a time. My veterinarian told me that if the kittens were given too much formula at once (more than they could swallow), they might inhale it. Inhaling formula will make your kittens much more susceptible to pneumonia.

Along the way, I have also discovered that it is best to feed the kittens as much as they want to eat. They will settle down and sleep until the next feeding if they are getting enough to eat. Tiny kittens will start out taking maybe 1 CC at a time. As they grow bigger, they will eat around 12 CCs at a time (usually in several different helpings).

Kittens learn very quickly that food comes from the syringe you hold in your hand. If you are having trouble getting them to take the formula from the syringe, let nuzzle in the palm of your hand for a few seconds or let them suck on your fingers. Then introduce the syringe and let them suck on it while you very slowly press the plunger down.

3. Feed the kittens KMR or kitty formula that you have mixed yourself.

KMR, the canned cat milk replacer, is available at most vet clinics in either a premixed or dry form. It is specifically formulated for kittens to provide all the nutrients they need. Follow the directions on the label. The amount to feed is determined by body weight. My newborn kittens weighed three ounces each, and for the first several days, they only needed a half an eyedropper of KMR at a time.

My vet clinic also gave me a recipe for "kitten formula." After the first can of KMR, this is what all of my kittens have been raised on.

Here is the recipe for Kitten Formula

1 cup whole milk

1 tablespoon white corn syrup

1 egg yolk

a pinch of salt

Mix in a blender and mix it up far enough in advance so the bubbles will have time to dissipate.

Warm over medium heat. Heat the formula so it feels slightly warm to the touch. All of my kittens have refused to swallow the formula if it was too cold or too warm. The same was true for KMR.

4. Feed your kittens on a regular schedule three times a day.

Mother cats nurse their kittens every couple of hours. The veterinarian I consulted cautioned me not to feed them that often. "They won't eat well and you'll get frustrated and they'll get frustrated and it will be harder on everybody," he said. He was right. Feeding the kittens three times per day worked out very well.

5. Groom your kittens with a warm, wet washcloth and help them to empty their bladders and their bowels.

Young kittens are unable to empty their bladders or move their bowels, so you'll have to help them. Use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe under their tails until they have emptied their bladders and/or moved their bowels. Be prepared to use as many as four washcloths for each kitten. If they only have to empty their bladders, you won't need that many. If they have to empty their bowels, look out -- it could get messy! Smaller washcloths that you can wring out with one hand while you hold onto a squirming kitten with the other work best. I put the washcloths in a pail of warm water and put the pail where I can reach it easily.

Young kittens also do not know how to groom themselves, and after a day or two of eating kitten formula, they become sticky from the formula that inevitably dribbles down their chins. From time to time, use a warm, wet washcloth to wipe off the formula, but be careful not to get the kittens TOO wet or it will be hard for them to stay warm.

6. Provide a litter pan when they're four weeks old.

Cats have a strong instinct to use material that they can scratch around in when they have to empty their bladders and move their bowels. By the time the kittens are four weeks old, they will already be thinking in this direction and providing them with a litter pan will help them get the idea. You might still have to assist them with a washcloth for a while, but it won't be long before they are using the litter pan.

Kitty litter in an aluminum pie plate works well to start out. As the kittens grow bigger, use a bigger container for a litter box.

7. Start feeding solid food when the kittens are about six weeks old.

Kittens that are raised by their mothers probably will start eating sooner than six weeks, but you will be able to provide more milk than their mothers would have available.

When your kittens have gotten their teeth, you can begin feeding them solid food. If you want to feed dry food, a good quality kitten chow will work fine. Kitten chow has all of the nutrients and protein that they need to keep growing. Kitten chow also is made in tiny kitten-bite-sized pieces. To tempt their appetites and to give them a "treat," you can also try a little canned kitty food. Be sure to provide fresh water for your kittens to drink, as well. And until the kittens are eating solid food regularly, supplement their caloric intake with kitten formula. By this time, you won't have to feed them with a syringe. You can put the formula into a small saucer, and once they discover where it is and what it is, they will drink by themselves.

8. Be prepared to be surprised and amazed.

Kittens grow very quickly, and on some days, you will think they are growing right before your very eyes.

Kittens get their eyes open when they're about 10 days old.

They will start purring when they are as young as 6 days old.

Kittens will start other "kitty behaviors" such as shaking their heads, attempting to groom and lifting a hind food to scratch behind their ears when they are between two to three weeks old.

Young kittens will sometimes get the hiccups (!) while you are feeding them.

Young kittens are like baby humans, in a way. Their days consist of eating, sleeping and emptying their bowels and bladders. After the kittens have gotten enough to eat and have had their bodily functions taken care of, when you put them back in the "nest," they will sleep or rest quietly until you are ready to feed them again. If they are restless and crying and meowing, they might need a little more to eat, or they might have to empty their bladders or move their bowels, or they might feel cold.

As the kittens grow older, they will be awake for longer periods of time and will eventually start playing with each other.

By the time the kittens are four weeks old, you will most likely have to move them into a bigger box, if not sooner, because the first one will be too small and they will know how to get out on their own!

If you have any questions concerning the raising of orphaned kittens, you can e-mail me at <a href="mailto:bigpines@ruralroute2.com">bigpines@ruralroute2.com</a>

*************

? 2004 LeAnn R. Ralph

About The Author

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books: *Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)* (trade paperback) and *Preserve Your Family History (A Step-by-Step Guide for Writing Oral Histories)* (e-book; 66 pages). To read sample chapters and to sign up for the FREE! monthly newsletter, Rural Route 2 News & Updates, visit - <a href="http://ruralroute2.com" target="_new">http://ruralroute2.com</a>

Sugar Gliders: Tiny Acrobats

In the last decade or so, the popularity of sugar gliders as pets has grown considerably. The small size of these furry acrobats, their personalities, their plush fur, their large eyes, their agility and their ability to bond closely with humans have attracted legions of new sugar glider devotees.

What is a sugar glider and where did they originally come from? Sugar gliders are small marsupials and members of the possum family. They are found in Australia, Tasmania, Indonesia, and New Guinea. Their scientific name is Petaurus breviceps. Most sugar gliders these days are captive-bred and not wild-caught.

Like their larger marsupial cousins, kangaroos, sugar gliders have a pouch where their infants grow and develop. Their young are called "joeys," as are the young of kangaroos. You may come across the term OOP while researching sugar gliders on the internet. OOP means "out-of-pouch" and it indicates how long the joey has been completely out of his mother's pouch. Joeys are ready to go to a new home at approximately 8 weeks OOP.

Sugar gliders are approximately chipmunk-sized, measuring about 9 to 12 inches long (including their long tail), and they weigh about 3 to 6 ounces as adults. Their normal color is steel gray to brownish with a black stripe down the back, but selective breeding in captivity has brought out other color variations, including albinos. In captivity, they can live as long as 15 years, although 8 to 12 years is more usual.

One of the most distinguishing features of sugar gliders is a thin membrane, called a patagium, that stretches between their front and rear legs, much like the more familiar flying squirrels of North America. This is what allows them to glide from tree to tree. When they glide, the skin spreads out, making sugar gliders look like furry kites! When the sugar glider is sitting, the patagium looks like ruffled furry skin, shaped somewhat like the edge of lasagna noodles.

Their tail is not prehensile, unlike their more familiar American opossum cousins. That means that sugar gliders cannot grasp, grip and hang from their tails. Instead, the tail is used as a balancing and stabilizing tool, especially while gliding.

Sugar gliders are nocturnal, which means they are active at night. They have very large (relative to their size) eyes, which help them see at night. They also have large ears, an obvious benefit to an animal who is both preyed-upon and a predator. Those big ears allow them to hear even the smallest sound.

Sugar gliders have fixed teeth, incisors, molars, and premolars. You should not trim your sugar glider's teeth. Unlike some species, such as guinea pigs, their teeth do not continue to grow once mature. If a tooth falls out, it is not replaced. Wild gliders chew on branches and in the process, clean their teeth. Gliders in cages will also chew on branches.

Sugar gliders have 5 toes on their front feet. Each toe ends with a very sharp claw that helps them land when they glide. Those claws also make gliders very agile climbers. Their hind feet also have 5 toes, but one of them is an enlarged, clawless opposable toe. An opposable toe means that they can use that toe to grip things, much as humans' opposable thumbs allow us to do the same.

Why are they called "sugar gliders"? In the wild, sugar gliders eat, as part of their diet, manna (a crusty sugar left where sap flowed from a tree trunk or branch) and honeydew (an excess sugar produced by sap-sucking insects). In captivity, sugar gliders have a fondness for sweet foods. They will eat too many sweets if allowed, so sweet foods must be rationed.

In the wild, sugar gliders nest in holes of trees in colonies of 7 to 15 members and have been observed gliding as far as 300 feet! The ability to glide is one of the most amazing features of sugar gliders, and one of the things that makes them such special pets. Teaching your sugar glider to glide to you is very rewarding!

Sugar gliders are social animals, which means they live in groups. They get along with and love the company other sugar gliders, and many sugar glider owners choose to have more than one glider. It is their social nature that allows them to develop strong bonds with their human owners. But it is also that social nature that creates their need for attention from their owners. Sugar gliders are not the kind of pet that can be left for long periods of time without any attention from their owners. The more time you spend with your sugar glider, the more he will become bonded with you.

Many sugar glider owners bond with their new gliders by carrying them around in a bonding pouch for several hours a day while the glider sleeps. Sugar gliders are sometimes called "pocket pets" because they will often curl up in your pocket and go to sleep!

Diet and housing are perhaps the two most important factors in deciding whether a sugar glider is the right pet for you. Sugar gliders require a varied diet consisting of a protein source (meat, insects, etc.), a fruit and/or vegetable source, and a supplement of calcium. There are commercial sugar glider dry and soft-pellet foods available, but it is not recommended that you feed your sugar glider a diet consisting solely of these commercial foods. Sugar gliders require fresh food sources in addition to any commercial food. Calcium is also crucial to their diet, and there are a number of products on the market that will allow you to easily add calcium to your sugar glider's diet.

Sugar gliders require as tall a cage as possible. They feel safer up high because they are normally tree-dwellers. 30 inches tall is usually the bare minimum for a sugar glider cage, but most breeders and sugar glider experts recommend cages 4 feet tall or higher. Many sugar glider owners buy flight cages designed for finches and other small birds. The flight cages are tall enough and roomy enough for a sugar glider. It is also recommended that sugar glider owners permit their gliders supervised play time in a glider-safe room for at least several hours a day.

Although sugar gliders are loving, affectionate and adorable, it is recommended that an adult closely supervise any young children around sugar gliders.

The cost of a sugar glider is approximately $150 to $250. If the glider must be shipped to you via airplane, there will be an additional cost. Certain desirable color variations can raise the price of a sugar glider considerably.

Miles Fowler is the author of Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide , a comprehensive book for both novice and experienced sugar glider owners. Learn more at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.sugargliderauthority.com/">http://www.sugargliderauthority.com</a>