วันอาทิตย์ที่ 30 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2551

Does Your Dog Have An Irritating Jumping Habit?

Do you have a puppy that jumps on you, company and even your Grandma who has a walker? This can be a very irritating trait for your dog to develop. Unfortunately, it can make people dread coming to your home. No one wants to try to have a conversation with a fluffy fur ball trying to jump on them or sit on their lap.

There are many dogs which are just too friendly. They never meet a stranger, and they would even roll the red carpet out and lavish love on the most grouchy individual. While no one wants to discourage friendliness in a puppy, they do need to learn social manners.

Have you ever known a person who you try to avoid? When you see this person coming do you do everything within your power to ensure you aren't held up by their endless chatting? There are some dogs who people simply want to avoid, too. If one of these overly friendly guys is in your home, you should teach them self-control. This can be done through consistent training.

Sometimes this sort of problem arises because a puppy thinks he is in charge of the home. He thinks he is "Lord of the Manor" and everyone should be pleased to have him on their laps! Dogs usually develop this attitude when they do not feel that a leader has been clearly defined in the home. These canines are more than happy to step into the role as the alpha male and do things at their whim and fancy.

The most important thing you can do when you bring your puppy home is to send him the signal that you are the leader of his pack. One of the first steps to achieving this is to have your pet rely on you for his food. You should never leave a full bowl of food out for your puppy to munch on at his leisure. By having you be the one which meets his hunger needs, he will quickly learn to respect you. You should have a set routine when you feed your dog throughout the day. Any food that is left after 20 minutes should be put away until the next feeding.

Dogs can also get confused and think they are the king of the house when they are the first ones greeted by a member of the family after an absence. You should make a point to greet all members of your household before you acknowledge your puppy. If you live alone, you can go to your room, change clothes or get a drink before you settle down and greet your puppy. Many owners only intensify a bad jumping habit when they greet their puppy exuberantly when they come through the door each day.

It is very important that you start teaching your puppy what "down" means the moment they start a habit of jumping. This is not a very hard technique to teach your puppy--if you practice it ever time they jump. The best thing to do during this phase is to let your pup jump on you. When he does and bounces back to the floor say "down." But, don't say this while he is jumping. You have to wait until all four feet of his feet are firmly on the floor. You should also use this word each and every time he is caught reclining on the furniture and you have to put him on the floor.

Once your dog seems to have an understanding of what down means, you should never allow him to jump on you again. Each time your puppy starts to jump on you, turn away immediately. Your pooch will miss his mark and hit the floor. Don't make a fuss. Simply turn your back and step out of his way. Once your pup is back down on the floor, you can reach down, pet him, and say "down." Your pup may not take to this at first. He may continue to jump repeatedly until he reaches his target . . . you. Every time he jumps up to you, simply step away and turn your back. Never greet your puppy until he is completely down on the floor. Your puppy will soon learn what down means, and he will also learn that he will not get attention from you if he is jumping. While this can easily turn into a match of wills, it is important that your dog understands that you are the leader of his pack!

An option to teach your puppy that jumping on guests is unacceptable is to have him on a leash. Have a leash by your door and if a guest arrives, put him on the leash before you open the door. If your pup stands up on his back legs and tries to greet the guest, pull him gently to the floor and say "down." You should advise your guests to ignore your puppy until he is on the floor. When your puppy starts to stay on the floor when guests arrive, have dog treats by the door to reward him with. Each and every time he does not jump up to greet a guest, praise him for staying down and give him a dog treat.

Dogs are very intelligent animals. They learn rather quickly. They can learn to obey and blend into the family, or they can learn to run wild and be a general nuisance to everyone. The choice is up to the owner. It is best to start training your puppy from day one. While many commands cannot be learned right away, you should always let your puppy know that you are the leader of his pack and that you will take care of him. In return, you expect to be obeyed and respected.

You may find that some dogs take to learning their social skills easier than others. You should never give up if you have a pooch who is a slow learner. Once it mentally clicks with your puppy what you are expecting from him, he will usually happily oblige. Puppies thrive under consistent training, routine, and praise. Once he discoveries that you will pile on the praise and adoration, he will gladly keep his feet on the floor and greet you and your guests from a comfortable distance.

Some dog owners may have trouble mastering the proper tone and techniques which are needed to command their dogs respect. If you are finding it hard to train your puppy, you may want to consider taking your canine to an obedience class where the pair of you can benefit from the instruction. You can check the local newspapers or go on the Internet to find the next available class in your area.

Your puppy will be with you for the rest of his life. You owe it to you and your guests (and even your dog!) to teach him how to interact and get along socially with humans.

Author Ian White is founder of Dog-Breeders.biz. This extensive online directory includes listings by private breeders, kennel clubs, and occasional hobby or family breeders. Those seeking dogs can locate and match with appropriate breeders. Dog-Breeders.biz automates the matching of dogs for sale with dog wanted entries, with daily email notifications to all parties. Dog lovers and breeders can find more information on the website at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-breeders.biz">http://www.dog-breeders.biz</a>

Cold Weather Pet Care

As we find ourselves in the middle of winter, it's important to pay particular attention to our pets when they're outside. When temperatures get into the twenties and below, with whipping winds, pets can suffer serious health problems. Besides not leaving your dog, cat or other animal outside for too long, there are several other precautionary measures you can take to care for your loving pet.

I generally don't favor going nuts over buying every trinket imaginable for my pets, but there are a few that make a lot of sense when it's cold and windy out. For dogs and horses, it's a good idea to purchase a coat. I have an all weather coat for my dog that's made of a nylon material on the outside and fleece on the inside. This provides warmth as well as protection from the snow and rain. It attaches via one Velcro strap that goes from one side to the other side of the dog around his or her belly. As for cats, they don't often take kindly to coats, but do your best to keep them inside during winter storms. They can easily get disoriented under very bad conditions. I'd rather have more litter box duty to handle, than find myself driving around the neighborhood trying to track down a cold, wet cat!

I don't use &quot;booties&quot; for my dog, but some people actively use them for cats and dogs. For the most part, this is only necessary for animals that have very sensitive paws. These booties slide on the animal's feet and keep them warm and dry. As you can imagine, going to this extreme isn't necessary for most animals, just don't leave them outside for very long, use a coat and try to keep them off heavily salted streets ? which can badly sting paws.

Lastly, I wanted to provide a few quick comments about fish and bird care. You may think that since your fish and birds are always in the house, you don't need to take any precautions when it's very cold ? not true. Despite keeping the heat level in your house at the usual level, cold weather outside may create colder temperatures inside.

Make sure your fish tank water is at the normal temperature, and hasn't fallen due to the cold. If you have a pet bird, make sure he or she is out of any draft and is nice and warm ? especially at night. Extended periods of cold temperatures for pet birds can be fatal. You probably do this already, but put an extra warm towel or sheet over the bird cage when it's particularly cold.

If you follow these few basic tips, you are more likely to have happy, healthy pets amidst the winter time cold!

<a target="_new" href="http://www.thepetman.com/">http://www.thepetman.com/</a>

The Different Breeds Of Dogs

The American Kennel Club recognizes 150 different dog breeds. There are seven different groups in which the dog can belong. They are assigned to one of the groups based on what the breed of dog was originally developed for. There is also a miscellaneous group if the dog doesn't fit into one of the seven. The seven different dog groups are as follows.

The first is the sporting group. These dogs were developed to work with people who hunted birds. A Labrador Retriever would fit into this group. Labs can also be beneficial as guide dogs and in search and rescue.

The second group is the hound group. These dogs were developed to hunt using their scent and sight. This group includes the Whippet, which is the fastest domestic animal of their size. They can run up to 35 mph.

Thirdly, is the working group, which includes the Saint Bernard. They have been known for hundreds of years for their rescue work in the Alps. Other dogs in this group are useful for herding or guarding.

The fourth group is the terrier group, first developed to hunt vermin. The Australian Terrier, one of the smallest terriers, is a part of this group. They were developed to work side by side with the Australian pioneers to aid in tending the sheep or chasing off invaders.

The fifth group is the toy group, developed to be companions. A Japanese Chin is a good example. They like to play, show off, and spend lots of time trying to keep clean and tidy.

The sixth group is the non-sporting group, which overall do not perform the tasks that they were originally developed for. A good example would be the American Eskimo Dog. These dogs were sometimes used in circus acts at the beginning of the century.

The seventh group is the herding group, which was meant to be used in working with livestock. The German Shepherd is in this group. They are not only useful in herding livestock, they are also great companions to humans.

Originally, many dog breeds were first developed for specific uses, such as hunting, companionship, herding, etc. Today, because man has created such a large variety of dog breeds, there is a dog out there to make almost anybody happy. Currently, the most popular dog breed in America is the Labrador Retriever, with the Golden Retriever coming in second.

About The Author

Published by: Wendy Yeager

<a href="http://www.wenmarcorp.com/dogs-go2" target="_new">http://www.wenmarcorp.com/dogs-go2</a>; <a href="mailto:mjy222@hotmail.com">mjy222@hotmail.com</a>

Westie Pups - How to Prepare for Your Westie Puppy

Just like when you bring home a new baby, you will need to prepare before you bring home your westie puppy. The needs of westie pups are not tremendous, but there are a few things that you must have in place to give your westie a safe, happy transition into your life.

It is much easier and safer to prevent your west highland terrier pup from getting into and destroying things than it is to watch him every second. Remember that any item they chew on is also an item that is potentially swallowed: bits of cloth, tassels, string, and of course, shoes.

Secure everything that can be picked up or moved. Electrical cords are a particular danger. A solution called 'bitter apple' can be sprayed on cords, and anything else that cannot be relocated, to discourage chewing.

Dog trainers recommend that you never give your new puppy the freedom to roam the house while you are gone. A crate will keep the dog secure, and can also be used for safe travel. Pick one that is big enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in. Baby gates, or pet gates, will keep it confined to a room of the house that has a durable floor.

Since your westie will not be old enough for reliable housetraining until about four months of ages, this may be essential to keeping your carpets stain-free.

Your westie dog will need to eat, and it is wisest to ask the breeder what he has been eating, and buy that brand. You may change the food later, but in the beginning he will have enough adjustments to make without a change in diet. Food and water bowls should be of stainless steel, since most plastics will become victims of teething.

To encourage it to chew on acceptable items, have a selection of sturdy chew toys on hand. These should be made of Cressite, or English rubber, although tennis balls and nylabones are also acceptable.

You will want to get your westhighland terrier puppy used to a collar and leash as quickly as possible. Buy a light collar and leash, suitable for puppies, and get an ID tag to go with them. The grooming routine is also something that it needs to experience as early as possible. Have a brush or comb ready at hand.

Some owners recommend a bed of old towels, while others suggest faux lambskin. Like everything else you buy for your westie puppy, whatever you choose for a bed should be both washable and durable, as well as comfortable for your dog.

Last, but not least, find a veterinarian. A reputable west highland white terrier breeder will even let you bring the dog to a vet before purchase, in order to ensure that the dog you bring home is healthy.

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

Good health and happiness

Jeff Cuckson <a href="mailto:webmaster@madaboutwesties.com">webmaster@madaboutwesties.com</a>

Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest, Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie You Have Ever Dreamed Of! Then Visit NOW! <a target="_new" href="http://www.madaboutwesties.com">http://www.madaboutwesties.com</a>

How To Find a Lost Cat

Losing your cat is a worrying experience, use these 'How to find a lost cat' steps, and try to stay calm. Remember that most lost cats have not run away from home, we all know about cats and curiosity.

The first place you will want to search for your lost cat is right inside your home. It may seem obvious but make sure that your cat is not shut in a room, less obvious check washing machines, clothes dryers, dish washers, even refrigerators. Check garden sheds, garages, basements and attics, look up trees. An injured cat will hide anywhere, and will not always respond to your calling, so search every possible space, under furniture, in boxes, any conceivable space that your cat could have crawled into.

Next check with your immediate neighbors, ask them to check their sheds, garages, etc. Ask local children if they have seen your cat, when and where they last saw it, ask if they know of any places that your cat could be hiding. If the children are old enough, and with their parents permission, ask them to help find your lost cat.

Ask people who are regularly outside your home, joggers, postal workers, people walking dogs, moms taking kids to school, if they have seen your cat. Show them a photograph if possible.

It is a good idea to make a search to find a lost cat at night, but not alone - have someone with you.

Have you, or your neighbors, had anything delivered? It has been known for cats to climb into the backs of vehicles and get driven off, phone the company and see if they know anything. Have you recently moved? Check your old address, if it is a distance, phone your old neighbors ask them to let you know if they should find your lost cat.

Post flyers, preferably with a photograph, all around your neighborhood. Make the flyers stand out somehow, use brightly colored paper if possible. Do not publish your name and address, just your phone number, if you offer a reward do not state the amount. Don't forget to go back frequently and check that the flyers are still there, sometimes people take them down. Leave flyers at your local post office, pet supplies store, laundromat, gas station, animal shelter and veterinary. Consider placing a 'Lost Cat' classified ad. in your local newspaper.

Return to the same spots that you have already investigated and search again and again. Call back to the animal shelters and animal control agencies, in person - do not rely on telephoning. Do not shrink from checking with the highway department and any other agency that deals with road kills, you would rather know if the worst has happened.

Finally have hope, cats are tough creatures and can last for some time without food and water. It is not too unusual for lost cats to be reunited with their owners after being missing for some months.

About The Author

If you have a pet related web site and you wish to reproduce the above article you are welcome to do so, provided the article is reproduced in its entirety, including this resource box and live link to <a href="http://www.best-cat-art.com" target="_new">http://www.best-cat-art.com</a>.

Cat art posters, art prints, cat calendars and cat collectibles. Great cat gifts for yourself or your cat loving friends.

วันเสาร์ที่ 29 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2551

Train Your Buddy To ?Walk? & ?Dance? - Warning: Not All Dogs Can Do It!

Standing and walking on the hind legs are tricks that put an abnormal strain upon the muscles of the back and hind legs and most dogs require considerable practice before they gain sufficient control of those muscles to balance themselves in this unnatural position.

Before you rush into teaching this trick, bear in mind that not all dogs can do this trick, especially the big dogs such as St. Bernard or Great Dane as it is almost physically impossible for them to perform such trick. Sorry. This trick is not for you - Big dog owners!

A dog should first be taught to sit up and after he will do this well, hold a small piece of treat just above his nose and say &quot;Up,&quot; when he will elevate himself just a trifle to get it, and should be allowed to eat it. Give him daily practice at this, making him reach a little higher from day to day until he can balance himself on his hind feet.

Do not keep him at these lessons too long at any one time, as they are very fatiguing, and you must give the muscles plenty of time in which to grow strong, so that he can sustain himself more easily. After he can stand up he should be taught to walk by slowly moving the treat from him, and he will be induced to take first one step and then another toward it. Reward him frequently by letting him have the treat and be careful not to tire him.

Dancing Dog

After a dog can stand erect and walk on his hind legs he can be taught to dance, which consists simply in hopping around on the hind legs and at short intervals turning around.

The simplest method of teaching this trick is to attach a piece of treat to a string, four or five feet long; hold the treat in tempting proximity to the dog's nose, and so high that he will stand on his hind legs to get to it, and then slowly move it around and he will follow after it any way that you may select. Give a command such as &quot;Dance&quot; to associate this trick with. Say the command when you tempt him with the treat.

Do not keep him at it too long and reward him frequently, so as to keep up his enthusiasm. In the early lessons, your dog simply follows the treat because he wants the reward attached to the end of it, nevertheless with regular practice, your dog will still dance for you even without the reward treat. Over time, he should be able to dance at command and for an occasional reward. Till then, he can be accustomed to dancing when dressed up in fantastic apparel.

Standing On Forelegs

This is one of the most difficult tricks to teach, and you most probably see this trick only in a circus as the position of standing on the front feet alone with the head down and the hind legs elevated is an unnatural one. It will be a long time before your dog learns to balance himself.

However, it is not totally impossible to teach your dog such trick, provided that you put in consistent amount of effort and time to teach and train him. (This trick is mainly for smaller and toy breed dogs only, most big dogs are physically incapable of doing this trick)

To teach this trick, provide yourself with a light cane or a stick, about two feet long. Hold the stick in your right hand and place it under the dog's stomach, raising his hindquarters with the stick and at the same time placing your left hand on his head, so as to prevent his moving away, thereby forcing him to retain his reversed position; as the dog rises into position the stick should be gradually moved back from his belly until it supports only his hind feet.

Use a command such as &quot;On your head&quot; to associate this trick with and repeat it distinctively during training and remember don't save on your praises and treats when your dog is progressing and learning. He need plentiful of them to further encourage him to learn the trick.

Repeat this operation at successive lessons until the dog understands what is expected of him and learns to balance himself with but very little assistance or support from the stick, and finally with none at all. Eventually he will learn to take the position at the order, &quot;on your head,&quot; without assistance from the hand or switch.

After a dog can balance himself on his forefeet he can be taught easily to take a few steps by standing in front and calling him to you, and as he gains confidence and experience can be made to walk quite a distance.

Your dog may or may not master any of these tricks mention above. For all you might know, he could be a lazy dog, or maybe you are a lousy teacher. In any case, tricks are still tricks; you shouldn't be bothered if your buddy can't perform them because I know you will still love him for what he is, and not performing tricks to entertain friends or yourself.

About the Author:
Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of <a target="_new" href="http://dogsobediencetraining.com/">DogsObedienceTraining.com</a> ? The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog.

You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

The Background and Use of Clicker Training For Dogs

Presently, and throughout the 1990s a phenomena swept through the dog-lover's community. It was called &quot;Clicker Training,&quot; and was implemented to teach dogs (along with horses and cats) that certain behaviors would be awarded, while others were not. Ms. Karen Pryor, a former dolphin trainer and author, along with a team of &quot;Operant Trainers&quot; started giving presentations at dog shows. They displayed how the small plastic device (about half the size of a bottle-opener) could be used to train dogs to do a number of &quot;tricks,&quot; in just a few days; tricks that would've taken months or even years to learn before.

The idea of using an acoustic sound or &quot;click&quot; to stimulate desired behaviors is called &quot;operant conditioning&quot; and was first used with dolphins and whales as early as the 1930s. This idea evolved and was formulated for other types of animals. These animals, like their dolphin predecessors, were &quot;conditioned&quot; to perform desired behaviors or actions.

Clicker Training is entirely based on a system of positive reinforcement with no punishment for undesired behavior. The clicker is clicked to let the dog know that he did something (i.e. sat, didn't chew or jumped over a box, etc.) right. The system is designed to shape behavior by allowing the animal to do something for which he will then be rewarded with a click and a treat. It is NOT designed (as old training methods were) for the dog owner to physically manipulate the animal to sit, for example. Modern animal behaviorists find that animals learn more by themselves than when someone &quot;shows&quot; them how they should react in a situation.

If this idea is still hard to grasp, think about dolphins; or better yet, killer whales. There is no way that a trainer is going to physically manipulate a whale to jump out of the water. However, whales jump out of the water (at least partially) without conditioning. When these same whales jump out of the water, hear the &quot;click&quot; (or some associated sound), and then receive a treat, they quickly associate jumping out of the water as a positive behavior. Once that connection is made, trainers gradually increase what it takes (a higher jump) for the whale to get a click and a treat. It's the same idea for a dog. The trainer waits for the dog to sit, quickly clicks, and gives the dog a treat. Puppies have been shown to learn as fast as within one click.

It's important when using Clicker Training that the clicker is used immediately following the desired behavior. If the trainer or owner waits even a second, then the training could take a lot longer. Or worse yet, the dog may not associate the click and treat with something he did right. The clicker allows you to use something besides your voice to control your pet's behaviors. It provides an external stimulus outside your body and provides a sound that is always the same, hence, always precise. It might be considered to be like a small remote control.

Today, Clicker Training is spreading like wildfire across many states and countries. Ms. Karen Pryor notes that in the early 1990s there were no Clicker Trainers. Just the idea existed. But now that people are seeing the amazing results, there are people budding up everywhere buying the manuals and using the device to train their dogs. Success statistics vary, but they lay somewhere between 90% and 100% percent effective. The higher statistics are a result of the dog having only one trainer who follows the guidelines exactly. When used precisely, it's seemingly a flawless method of pet training.

To get more free information about dog training or the use of clickers, visit us at www.dog-gifts-and-toys-for-dog-lovers.com.

About the Author:
Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-gifts-and-toys-for-dog-lovers.com">Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers</a>.

Copyright 2004. All rights reserved.

วันศุกร์ที่ 28 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2551

The Case AGAINST Raw Frozen Pet Foods

For some 25 years I have alerted the public to the dangers of exclusively feeding heat processed foods. Companion animal feeding has progressed ? actually digressed ? from table scraps and real foods the family could spare to today's &quot;100 % complete&quot; processed foods in primarily kibble form, with some canned and semi-moist also available. The foods appear to be scientific and improved, but they're far worse for the animals. Not only is nutrient value diminished by heat, but a spectrum of toxins is created. Additionally, the singular feeding of processed food has led to the spurious &quot;100% complete and balanced&quot; claim that is both logically and scientifically flawed.

Entrepreneurs have seized upon this information to create a spate of raw frozen (RF) foods to capture a market niche and to fill the demand from consumers wanting a raw alternative to standard heat processed canned, semi-moist and dried pet foods. This market trend, as with most others, may begin with some truth (raw food is the best food) but gets distorted, if not perverted, once economic opportunity enters the picture. This paper will examine the rationale of these products, their economics and dangers. A more intelligent and healthy alternative will be proposed.

Dangers

1. Weakened Pets And Highly Virulent Organisms ? A raw state and the presence of moisture in food provide the perfect environment for the growth of pathogenic organisms. Although prey foods in the wild often putrefy and are teeming with microorganisms, carnivores in the wild are immunologically adapted to these organisms and even benefit from the probiotic effects of some. On the other hand, domestic pets eating sterilized heat processed foods are immunologically compromised and are threatened by mutated and highly virulent pathogenic strains created by modern circumstances and antibiotic resistance. Freezing at appropriate temperatures puts pathogens in a state of arrest but does not eliminate them. Although all foods contain some pathogens, unless they are sterilized (requiring high heat or other measures that greatly diminish the nutritional value and create toxins), it is the load of these pathogens that must be of concern to consumers. RF foods are a potential reservoir and vector of large numbers of pathogens.

2. Producers With Only Kitchen Technology ? Because of the minimal technology required to produce a RF pet food, essentially anyone regardless of credentials or expertise can bring a product to market. All one needs to do is grind and mix ingredients in a kitchen, package and put in a freezer. There are no controls over the conditions in the kitchen, the quality of the ingredients or the method of freezing. All these factors can dramatically influence the nutritional value and pathogenic and toxic content of the food. But being in a frozen state hides these potential dangers and therefore poses a threat to both pets and the humans who handle the foods. John Doe can make a food under unknown conditions and with unknown ingredients, label, package, freeze and deliver to consumers or stores without one single control monitoring or impeding the process. Regulators may eventually examine the label if they happen to see it in a store (they will never see it if shipped directly to consumers) and object to some terminology or the like; but, all John needs to do is change the label and all will be well. The product could contain every manner of ingredient, be laced with virulent pathogens, and receive the aegis of regulators ? and into the market it goes.

3. Raw Frozen Foods Are Not &quot;100% Complete&quot; ? Many RF foods make (or imply) the same spurious 100% complete claim as heat processed foods and thus carry with them the same health dangers. Feeding any food exclusively, let alone a nondescript packaged food containing who-knows-what from who-knows what manufacturing environment, is a bad choice if health and safety are of concern. (See The Truth About Pet Foods by Dr. Wysong).

4. Problems Are Ignored By Producers ? RF food pathogens include not only bacteria, but fungi, viruses and parasites. Toxins include those from molds (mycotoxins), bacteria and those created by oxidation. In our study of RF products in the stream of commerce, not one producer addressed these concerns with any technological know-how that we could discern, and most did not even acknowledge the problems potentially lurking in their foods.

5. Freezing Masks Inedibles ? Raw meat and organ tissue continues to use ATP (source of energy) until it is exhausted and the tissue enters a state of rigor. Endogenous enzymatic activity within the tissue continues to digest the muscle tissue (proteolysis), softening it until it becomes tender and develops the typical palatable taste. This process is retarded by cold. The freezing of properly aged meat presents few problems, however, any residual ATP present in the tissue during freezing will contract the muscle upon thawing resulting in a more unpalatable product. Mixed RF foods would hide this problem.

6. Free Radical Problems Masked ? Essential fatty acids and other health enhancing lipids are critical in the diet. Once foods are ground, mixed, exposed to air, light and pro-oxidants such as heme iron and other metals found in plant and animal tissue, the contained lipids are oxidized to chain reaction producing free-radicals, causing rancidity and oxidant toxins. Freezing at appropriately low temperatures slows this process but does not stop it. The temperature in conventional freezers used for RF foods is not insurance against such oxidation. Because the frozen state masks olfactory detection of rancidity, foods that would be otherwise rejected end up being consumed. The free-radical pathology potential can then work its chronic degenerative disease and immune weakening effects.

7. Freezer Burn Indicates A More Serious Problem ? Air reaching the meat surface is the cause for the freezer burns that result in the typical grayish-brown leathery spots. Frozen water on the surface or just beneath it sublimates (from solid state directly to vapor) into the air, causing moisture to be lost from the meat over time resulting in discoloration and a dry, leathery texture. Proper packaging helps maintain quality and prevent freezer burn, however most packaging is permeable to air. The prevalence of freezer burn in RF products speaks to the fact that the product is being oxidized and with that creating free radical toxins to lay the seeds for various degenerative diseases.

8. Display Packaging Causes Free Radicals ? Light, as well as air, can promote free radical production. Retail display packaging that is clear or light permeable permits light to catalyze the free radical (disease promoting) process.

9. Frozen Products Are Not Inert To Degradation ? In frozen storage there is deterioration in organoleptic quality ? meat texture, fat turning granular and crumbly, and discoloration. Microbial enzymes also remain active, especially lipases that break down fats increasing their susceptibility to oxidation.

10. Frozen Foods Can Lead To Acidemia ? Tissue degradation and oxidation under high heat freezing (above 29? F), which occurs along the supply chain with most RF products, also leads to acidification. Increasing acid consumption can contribute to acidemia that lies at the base of virtually every chronic degenerative disease plaguing modern pets. (See reference below.)

11. Temperature And Time Are Critical ? Ice nucleation, as opposed to ice crystallization, is the primary vector in producing a stable, tasty, frozen product. Freezing is a technically complex process based on the optimum combination of temperature and time, amongst other factors. In the wrong processor's hands, slips in proper freezing care can lead to a microbiologically unstable product and/or a sensory inferior one. Rapid freezing leads to nucleation, thereby preventing undesirable large ice crystals from forming throughout the product. With rapid freezing the molecules don't have time to form positions in the characteristic six-sided snowflake, so nucleation overrides crystallization. On the other hand, slow freezing (the usual RF situation) creates large ice crystals, which on thawing causes cellular damage to the meat. This in turn causes meat to &quot;drip&quot; ? lose juiciness ? and form a perfect liquid medium for bacterial growth.

12. The High Risk In Thawing ? Thawing is another critical phase in the freezing process as it involves a change from crystal ice to melted water, which upon reabsorption results in microbial reactivation. Pathogenic bacteria inherently contaminate raw meat, fish, and poultry and will begin to multiply again when the temperature reaches just 29.3? F ? which is below freezing! Thus a product that may appear subjectively frozen could be a veritable incubator of pathogens. When consumers attempt to thaw RF foods, dangers dramatically increase. The surface temperature rises long before the interior is sufficiently thawed to serve. For example, it takes about 15 hours for the middle of a 22-pound turkey to get to 32? F. In the interim the surface temperature rises to 53? F. In this amount of time there would be about 4 multiplications of spoilage bacteria as well as non-detectable multiplications of pathogens. The FDA Model Food Code (1999) recommends that food be thawed in the refrigerator or in flowing water. Thawing RF food in the refrigerator can be inefficient and time consuming, in addition to occupying refrigeration space required for other food items. Most of all, this lengthy procedure can lead to the risk of cross-contamination when the drip from the raw meat comes in contact with ready-to-eat food stored in the refrigerator. In the alternative, consumers usually put the RF food out at room temperature, creating the perfect circumstance for pathogen proliferation.

13. Undetected Freeze-Thaw Cycles ? The transit time of RF food from the processor (or John Doe's kitchen) to the distributor, to the stores and eventually to the consumer is very critical. Although freezer delivery trucks might putatively maintain stable product temperatures, lack of thermocouples fitted in the truck to show temperature readings, and/or inadequate TTIs (time-temperature indicators) can lead to microbiologically infested products without any visible spoilage signs. If the refrigeration in any part of the supply chain fails temporarily and then goes back to frozen (freeze-thaw-freeze), the consumer would never know of this abuse and danger.

14. Supply Chain Time Dangers ? Time is the enemy of nutrition and safety. The longer the time between the farmer's field and the belly, the greater the potential problems. RF foods create the illusion that time is not a factor. Because the frozen state masks toxins and odors, the consumer can be given the impression of value and freshness when, in fact, they may be getting age and toxicity.

15. Microwave Thawing Dangers ? If RF foods are thawed in the microwave as a matter of convenience, the value of the food is greatly compromised. Microwaves can virtually boil the liquid phase within cells and electromagnetically alter important food components rendering them not only useless nutritionally, but toxic as well.

16. Mycotoxins Go Undetected ? RF foods, particularly those that are a mix of cooked grains (which of course negates the claim for &quot;rawness&quot;) and vegetables, can contain mycotoxins. None of the producers surveyed addressed this problem.

17. Frozen Product Mixtures Make No Health Sense ? In an attempt to cover every conceivable base and not miss any opportunity for profit, many RF producers mix every manner of ingredient. For example, watermelon, grains, persimmons, liver, lamb, etc. Not only would creatures in the wild never eat such a mixed gruel at one sitting, such combinations in the fresh state can cause serious digestive stress. Many of the exotic RF ingredients do not keep well in the fresh frozen state (for example, freeze watermelon alone and see what happens, let alone combining it with meat). Also, the combination of fruit sugars with proteins can potentially create toxins such as glycation end products, acrylamides (particularly in those &quot;RF&quot; foods containing cooked carbohydrates) and reaction products of proteins with plant tannins, phenols and flavonoids. Producers &quot;throwing the book&quot; at RF formulations in desperate attempts to capture market share make evident their motives and their scientific, health and technical naivet?.

18. Parasites Are Ignored ? A wide range of parasites can be found within RF foods. Although there is technology in terms of freezing and natural ingredients that can be used to thwart this problem, none of the producers examined employed any of it that we could detect.

Packaging

The best packaging for any food, particularly RF foods, is light- and oxygen-barrier and modified atmosphere flushed. In the absence of this, oxidation proceeds rendering the lipids toxic. None of the producers surveyed employed these technologies that we could detect. Even if they did, the other problems and dangers listed above would remain.

Environmental

We live in an age of pollution and energy diminishment. RF foods require a tremendous amount of refrigeration and equipment all along the supply path. Freezing is energy inefficient and consumes valuable energy resources. Since RF foods are 70% water (at least) there are huge resources wasted in freezing and transporting the tons of this food-contained water through the supply chain. Along with all the equipment, trucking, freezing and frozen water handling inefficiency comes the pollution that parallels such industry.

Quality

In order to make their foods anywhere near affordable, RF producers must search the ingredient market for items that can carry the name of real food but may in fact be only a hollow shell of the real thing. Inferior meat and organ ingredients, heat processed grains and vegetable riffraff (for example &quot;broccoli&quot; on a label may really be broccoli stems ? like eating a branch from an apple tree rather than the apple) are used because they are of low cost. That is not to say the marketing brochures and labels do not make it appear as though the brand is not a true gourmet meal. If one reviews the various labels it becomes clear that the race is on to see who can put the fanciest and most exotic ingredients on labels ... as if that is the road to pet health. (It is not.) In a brief ingredient survey this is what we found:

Every manner of &quot;pureed&quot; vegetable
Organic beef, rabbit, chicken, turkey, goat, lamb, duck, pork
Organic honey
Organic papaya, persimmons, blueberries, oranges, apples, pears
Organic yogurt
Organic alfalfa, millet, quinoa and barley sprouts
Wheat grass
Nettles
Bok choy
Cultured kefir
Cod liver oil
Capsicum
Watermelon

The reader is challenged to go to the store and total up the cost of such ingredients. Some of the organic ingredients can cost over $15 per pound. But the RF diets containing them can retail for as little as $2-4 per pound. Take away margins for distributors and retail stores and the producer is selling them wholesale for close to a dollar per pound. Now on top of the cost of ingredients is the production, advertising, packaging, freezing and in some cases a sales force making six figures. Something most certainly does not add up. The only thing that can be missing is true ingredient quality. But how can the label say these expensive ingredients are in the food? All the producer needs to do is put in pinches of the expensive ingredients just to say they are there.

The only economic hope for a RF producer is to create the perception of &quot;value added.&quot; They simply could not put the costly ingredients in the food to any degree and make a profit for themselves and all the middlemen up and down the chain. The price they would have to charge would be ridiculous. In effect, in order to be successful, producers must become accomplished at propaganda, not health and nutrition.

Consumers interested in cutting through to the truth do themselves and their pets a service by going to the grocery store with a list of the ingredients ostensibly in a RF diet. Although some RF diets in the lower price range appear to not be attempting to mislead, consumers should do the math comparing the exotic ingredients in RF pet foods to the prices for the real thing in the store and decide for themselves whether either value or honesty resides in RF products.

Economics

Consumers are under the mistaken assumption that a nondescript package mix of ingredients with an officious label and from a producer posing as a nutritional authority (none of the producers we examined had people at the helm with expertise or credentials) would be the best choice. Little do they realize that they could avoid essentially all of the caveats listed above by simply going to the grocer and buying fresh meats and produce. Pets do not require every nutrient in existence at every meal, as is the impression given by the 100% complete RF producers, and for that matter the rest of the pet food industry. Why would people choose to pay a producer to mix inferior ingredients, package them, label them, freeze them, transport them, advertise them and pay the margin for the producer, the distributor, sales force and the retailer when they can avoid all that cost and put their money into real quality fresh foods? Some people are so convinced that RF manufacturers perform some sort of magic that they will pay to have such foods put in special insulated containers packed with dry ice and overnight delivered! This is particularly ridiculous when one considers that no real convenience ? and certainly no health or nutritional value ? is added in the process. The consumer still has to go to the store and buy something.

At the grocer a person can buy fresh, raw, untainted meats and produce appropriate for pet carnivores at less than $1 per pound. Slightly out-of-date meats, sale items, trimmings or other still excellent products that cannot be put in the meat case can be even less. True, if you are to purchase the ingredients listed above in perfect human grade organic form (as many RF producers boast) the cost could be far greater. But at least you would know what you are getting. RF foods can cost as much as $7 per pound with an average of about $3-4 per pound (not including shipping to the customer's door) and most of that cost is going into freezing, transportation and profits through a whole chain of participants. Here is a case where a consumer gets to pay more (a whole lot more) and get less (a whole lot less). Isn't marketing a wonderful thing?

A Better Alternative

Fresh foods fed in variety are without question the perfect form of nutrition. Appropriately designed supplements to help reduce the risk of food-borne pathogens and oxidation, and to help balance high meat meals and provide a spectrum of vegetable-based nutrients and nutraceuticals can also be of great benefit. Anything less than this is a compromise. The next best alternative is packaged dried raw foods that have incorporated in them food technology to impede pathogens, parasites and oxidation. The low water activity of these products is a great inhibitor of pathogens and the low level of moisture make storage and shipping efficient and environmentally friendly. Good quality table scraps and properly designed dried extruded and canned foods can be mixed into the diet rotation with benefit as well.

Consumers must learn the principles of fresh foods fed in variety and to trust in nature. Every pet owner desires the best for a beloved pet, and is correct in thinking food is an essential element in achieving that goal. But it is incorrect to believe that another person can do more for their pet's health than they can do themselves. All that is required is a little understanding and use of common sense.

[ NOTE: To that end, the Wysong Institute makes available a free e-Health Letter, a free one-hour CD entitled, &quot;The Thinking Person's Master Key To Health,&quot; healthy product alternatives designed intelligently with health as the number one objective, and books and recipes for anyone wanting to take control of their own and their family's and pet's health. See www.wysonginstitute.org ]

References:

Cano-Mu?oz, G. (1991). Manual on meat cold store operation and management. FAO Animal Production And Health Paper 92. Food and Agriculture Organization of The United Nations, Rome.

FDA Food Code (1999). U.S. Public Health Service, U.S. Dept. of Health and Human Services. Pub. No. PB99-115925. Washington, D.C. 20250

Food Safety and Inspection Service (2004). FOCUS ON: Freezing. U.S. Dept. of Agriculture. Washington, D.C. 20250

Klose, A.A., Lineweaver, H., and Palmer, H.H. (1968). Thawing turkeys at ambient air temperature. Food Tech. 22:1310-1314.

Muldrew, K. and McGann, L.E. (1999). Cryobiology - A Short Course. http://www.ucalgary.ca/~kmuldrew/cryo_course/cryo_chap13_1.html

Snyder, O. P. (1999). Thawing At Ambient Temperature On The Counter. Hospitality Institute of Technology and Management, St. Paul, MN.

Wysong, R. L. (2004). Nutrition is a Serious Health Matter: The serious responsibility of manufacturing and selling. Wysong Institute, Midland, MI.

Wysong, R. L. (1990). Lipid Nutrition: Understanding Fats and Oils in Health and Disease. Midland, MI: Inquiry Press.

Wysong R. L. (1993). Rationale for Animal Nutrition. Midland, MI: Inquiry Press.

Wysong, R. L. (2000-2005). Wysong e-Health Letter. Wysong Institute, Midland, MI. For subscriptions: http://www.wysong.net/subscribehl.shtml, and archived at http://www.wysong.net/archivesehl.shtml

Wysong, R. L. (2002). The Truth About Pet Foods. Midland, MI: Inquiry Press.

Wysong, R. L. (2003, January 14). What to do to reverse and prevent acidemia. The Wysong e-Health Letter. http://www.wysong.net/health/post_101_011403.shtml Wysong Institute, Midland, MI.

Wysong, R. L. (2004). The Thinking Person's Master Key to Health (60 Minute CD Discussion). Wysong Institute, Midland, MI.

Dr. Wysong is a former veterinary clinician and surgeon, college instructor in human anatomy, physiology and the origin of life, inventor of numerous medical, surgical, nutritional, athletic and fitness products and devices, research director for the present company by his name and founder of the philanthropic Wysong Institute. He is author of The Creation-Evolution Controversy now in its eleventh printing, a new two volume set on philosophy for living, several books on nutrition, prevention and health for people and animals and over 15 years of monthly health newsletters. He may be contacted at <a href="mailto:Wysong@Wysong.net">Wysong@Wysong.net</a> and a free subscription to his e-Health Letter is available at <a target="_new" href="http://www.wysong.net">http://www.wysong.net</a>

Three Important Litter Box Considerations

There are three important litter box considerations to account for whether you're a new kitten owner, or someone who has had a cat for a while. If kitty isn't happy with any or all three of these, you may find she'll start urinating outside the box.

1. Litter Box Location:

Location is all-important in real estate. The litter box location is important to your kitty. As an owner, you need to be certain her box is in a quiet location, away from traffic and noise. Ideally, a room that is seldom visited, such as the basement or laundry room is a good choice.

Cats need to be left alone while tending to their business. A child's room, the hallway by the front door, or the family room may be too noisy for her.

2. Litter Box Type:

New cat litter boxes are marketed constantly. The final decision may rest with kitty. If you buy her a box, and she doesn't use it, think about the way she does her business. For example, my boy, JJ (who is fixed), urinates standing up. He's 14 years old, and it may be too much effort for him to squat. We have tall sided, and hooded litter boxes to accommodate the splash on the back wall.

You may consider the mechanical, self-cleaning litter box. They rake the results of kitty's visit into a small container. The drawbacks are that your cat may be scared of the motor noise. If so, she won't use it. The rakes, or tines, need to be cleaned regularly. They're close together, and can be a real trial to clean properly. What if you lose electrical power for an extended period of time? The motor won't operate, and the box won't get scooped, if you forget!

Bottom line? Observe your kitty doing her business, and formulate a strategy about the best box to buy.

3. Cat Litter:

There are lots of different types of cat litter you can purchase. There are different blends of clay; some are perfumed, some are not. Again, your cat may decide for you. If you purchase a certain brand, and kitty eliminates somewhere else, you'll need to experiment with different types until you and she agree on what will be used.

Perfumed, or scented litter is for us humans, not the cat! Some cats will refuse to patronize a box with heavily scented litter. As bad as the smell may be for you and your family, the end goal is find the right litter she'll use every time.

About The Author

Nancy E. Wigal
Cat Urine Odor Advisor

<a href="http://www.cat-urine-odor-advisor.com" target="_new">www.cat-urine-odor-advisor.com</a>

The Cat Urine Odor Advisor offers solutions, resources, and materials that work together to get rid of cat urine odor in your home. <a href="mailto:nancy@cat-urine-odor-advisor.com">nancy@cat-urine-odor-advisor.com</a>

Feeding Your Pet Stingray - The Essentials of Maintaining a Varied Diet

Stingrays will eat a wide variety of foods. Maintaining a varied diet is extremely important in captive animals, as monocultural diets incur a risk of nutritional deficiencies. Stingrays are very active, and should be fed at least once a day, preferably twice or even three times daily. The daily diet can be varied in order to create some environmental enrichment as well as balanced nutrition for the rays.

First Foods
First foods for newly acquired rays should be blackworms or tubifex worms. These foods seem to be the most readily accepted, and are small enough to be inadvertently ingested either by mouth or through the spiracle, thereby giving the ray an opportunity to taste these possibly unfamiliar foods by chance. Foods that have been used for very small specimens, such as the teacup rays, are small insect larvae such as mosquito larvae, small shrimp known as ghost shrimp or glass shrimp, live adult brine shrimp, and blackworms. Chitinous foods such as shrimp provide less nutritional value than do soft-bodied foods, and so should not be used as sole food items.

The best way to be certain that your new stingray is feeding is to watch the spiracles as the ray passes over food on the bottom of the tank. If it is eating, you will see the spiracles opening and closing rapidly, or fluttering, as the food is ingested and water is passed from the mouth and out the spiracles. Once you observe a newly acquired ray readily feeding on black-worms or redworms introduce finely chopped night crawlers in small quantities. Once stingrays recognize these as food, most will readily eat them. Later, experiment with other types of food.

Types of Food

Live Foods
Feed live foods, including blackworms or tubifex worms, in quantities adequate to allow a small amount to be left in the tank so the rays can browse later. However, when cleaning the substrate, note whether a significant amount of living worms is present; blackworms and tubifex worms will colonize the substrate if not eaten and add to the nitrogenous waste production in the aquarium.

Nonlive, Nonaquatic Foods
Chopped earthworms, redworms, or night crawlers and any nonlive, nonaquatic foods should be fed in smaller quantities to prevent any overlooked food from decomposing in the tank. Keep in mind that stingrays have relatively small mouths-a 10-inch (25-cm) ray may have a mouth that is 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13 to 19 mm) wide, so chopped food items must be small enough to be eaten easily. If a ray ingests a piece of food and repeatedly spits it out and ingests it again, this usually indicates that the particle is too large. Some ray species, such as antenna rays, have extremely small mouths relative to their size.

Once acclimated, rays often develop techniques for eating larger pieces of food; for example, newly imported rays may have difficulty consuming even small chopped pieces of night crawlers. Eventually, however, they learn to eat an entire worm by sucking it into their oral cavity without chewing. Newly acquired rays also often ignore feeder goldfish but they quickly learn to chase down and consume feeders, even learning where they hide in the tank.

Commercially Prepared Foods
Stingrays may learn to eat other unfamiliar foods such as brine shrimp, pellet foods, or other commercially prepared foods. While there is probably no harm in offering these foods to rays, it is best to use fresh, live, or frozen foods as the dietary staple. Although stingrays often do not initially accept frozen or other nonliving foods, they may soon learn to eat these foods after they have been acclimated. A benefit of frozen foods is that they are less likely than live foods to introduce diseases or parasites.

Hand-feeding

Occasionally, a well-acclimated specimen will fail to gain weight, even though you are offering enough food. Several things may cause this problem; the most likely possibility is that it is not competing efficiently for food against other fish in the aquarium, or it may have a parasitic infestation. Stingrays occasionally do not seem to learn where foods can be found during feeding times, and are always in the wrong part of the tank during those times. In these cases, it is helpful to hand-feed such specimens. By this I do not mean feeding with your hands. Although some aquarists do this with stingrays, I do not recommend it because of the possibility of being accidentally stung. Remember that stingrays are wild animals, and no matter how accustomed your specimens become to your presence, it is impossible to always accurately predict their response to humans. Instead, you should always perform the hand-feeding of specimens with long forceps or a similar instrument. Stingrays generally avoid metal objects and appear to be frightened by metal; however, because they can sense metal, they will quickly learn that when there is a metal object in the aquarium, food is being offered. In this way, you can teach your stingray to feed directly from forceps, and selectively feed it more food.

Simply hold a night crawler (or a piece of night crawler) in the forceps, and hold the worm in the aquarium so that the ray can touch it with its fin. It should eat the worm immediately. After a few feedings in this manner, allow the forceps to touch the ray while it is eating the worm. It will quickly learn to associate the forceps with feeding and soon you will find that the ray will pounce on the forceps as soon as it touches it, eagerly looking for a treat!

How Much and How Often

The key to having well-fed stingrays in your aquarium is providing plenty of food. Unlike most fish that swim quietly between feedings, stingrays search constantly for food, looking under and around tank ornaments, moving driftwood, rocks, filters, and even other fish! This high activity level translates to a high metabolic rate, which means that while searching for food rays continue to burn energy. If they use up energy looking for food, but do not find any, they will lose weight. To compensate for this loss of energy, it is essential to provide adequate food. I cannot stress this enough. Hobbyists sometimes tell me that they feed their rays three times weekly, thinking that this is adequate. Stingrays should be fed at least twice, and usually three times, daily. In spite of these frequent feedings, rays will still constantly look for food between feedings!

When feeding significant quantities of live feeder goldfish, it is wise to add vitamin B1 to the feeder supply. Goldfish contain the enzyme thiaminase, which destroys thiamin, or vitamin B1, and this vitamin must be replenished. It should be your practice to add one 50-mg tablet to each 500 gallons (1893 L) of water every two weeks. You can add the tablets directly to the sump of the wet-dry filter; or as an alternative, the tablets can be added directly to the tank.

Brendon Turner maintains The Animal Gazette - a weekly edition of helpful articles for pet owners. Visit AnimalGazette.com for information about cats, <a target="_new" href="http://www.animalgazette.com">dog breeds</a> and tropical fish.

New Pet Tag Services Provide A Sense Of Security

The greatest benefits of ownership is knowing that your property will be there when you need it, but ownership of a pet requires a different type of security measure. Because, pets are living creatures with minds of their own, they have a tendency to want to explore new things, and this often encompasses wandering off and not knowing how to return to where they started. This dilemma poses a unique problem for their owners inthat their pet is out there alone, and they are depending on the kindness of strangers to reunite them with their lost pet.

Now, every pet owner wants to have a sense of security that their pet will be returned if lost, and this is evidenced by the popularity of various identification techniques, such as pet tags, tattoos, and pet microchips. But, all of these means of pet identification have their limitations, and those limits are based on the fact that the owners' information will not change, and that the finder knows how the pet is tagged. Although the most recognizable form of identifying a pet is the pet tag, this method is also subject to the limitations above, but a company called RecoveryPets.Com has rectified this problem.

The pet tag is not a new invention, nor is it high tech, but it is still the most recognize means of identifying a lost pet. Now the use of the pet tag has been revolutionize by combining the pet tag with a unique identification number and the internet, this company has effectively created a means to recover lost pets that will never become obsolete. And, by compiling a database of registered pet owners on the RecoveryPets.Com website with their contact information, the pet tag now provides a true sense of security for pet owners concerned about their pets wandering away.

RecoveryPets.Com provides their registered pet owners a location to place their contact information prior to a pet being lost, which will save them time in the recovery effort, plus it increases the chances of a quick return. So, a listing of the pets complete description, a full color photograph, along with up to ten methods to contact the owner is the base of the services provided by this company. Along with this service they provide the pet owner the ability to update their contact information free for the life of the pet.

Providing a sense of security that if a registered owners pet is lost they will have a better than average chance of being returned in the first six hours is the mission of all pet recovery services. But, a pet tag along with the services provided by companies like RecoveryPets.Com can make this low-tech device the new revolution in pet recovery. For more information about the services provided by pet recovery companies visit: http://www.recoverypets.com

Thaddeus Collins is the owner of RecoveryPets.Com a company that specializes in the global recovery of lost pets using a unique tracking number that is registered on the companies website, and can be searched if the pet becomes lost. For more information visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.recoverypets.com">http://www.recoverypets.com</a>

วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 27 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2551

Acclimating New Birds

Now that my services have expanded into the "matchmaking" business, it dawned on me that we need to talk about the transition of a bird moving to a new home, whether a hand fed baby just adopted to a new home or an older bird going to a second home. This is a stressful time for any bird, but you can help lessen the strife and make the move easier for both your new bird and the rest of the family.

Good planning ahead of time is essential. A pet parrot should NEVER be an impulse buy. Adopting a companion parrot is just that - ADOPTING a new family member - they're not used cars to be traded in when you get bored! They are living, feeling, sensitive beings who should always be considered PERMANENT additions to the family.

I'll never forget the first local bird expo I went to after moving to the Northwest. It was winter - cold and rainy, and I saw a person after person exiting the expo, each with a tiny baby African Grey tucked under their coats. There was a vendor inside with lots of cute baby Grays and a cheap price - apparently, many folks couldn't resist. Since no one seemed to have brought a carrier, it didn't seem to me that these were "planned" purchases, but rather spur of the moment purchases.

I wonder how many went home to a nice cage, all set up with new toys and the proper diet? Not many, I'll bet. It's a deadly combo - cute, cheap, and baby! I'll bet not too many folks had done their homework either, studying up on African Greys and bird care in general.

The other common scenario is the "petshop rescue" - the pitiful bird at some pet store that knows nothing about birds - there he is, in a tiny cage, eating sunflower seeds, no toys, tucked in between the hamsters and the snakes, while the resident shop cat climbs freely through the store. So, on a whim, you take him home.

So, whether it's the irresistible baby, the sad ill cared for rescue, or an actual well thought out carefully chosen new addition - there he is, coming in your front door, hoping to spend the rest of his life with you, his ever loving devoted family!! So how do we transition from scared outsider to contented feathered child?

First, be prepared. Have the cage, toys, and food all set up prior to his arrival so he can slide right in and not have to stand by while everyone scrambles around, frantically searching for bird stuff. Normally, we advise putting a bird's cage in the busiest part of the house, where he can be the center of attention.

But new birds need some space, quiet and privacy during the settling in process, so find him a comfortable safe corner where he can observe, but at a distance. Of course, he should have made a trip to the vet first thing and quarantining him for at least one month away from any other birds is always recommended. So this may not be his permanent location, but rather serve as a "pit-stop" in the beginning. You may want to partially cover his cage, draping a towel over the back and one side to help him feel safe. If possible, have some of his previous diet to mix in with the new (wonderful) cuisine you'll be serving.

Find out as much as possible about, not only his diet, but preference in toys, play time, bed time, and daily routine. Keeping some consistency helps for a smoother transitional time. Radical changes don't agree with many parrots, so go slow. Introduce him to every family member, but avoid anyone doing too much "hands on" stuff in the beginning. Rather, spend time just sitting by him, talking to him and offering some treats by hand. Don't force him or expect instant love. Work on building trust with "step-ups". Play "The Towel Game" to have interactive fun, as well as aiding future needs for handling by a vet or groomer.

Put your new guy on a regular schedule. Feed him lots of fresh veggies and nice warm cooked grains and legumes. Warm food is "comfort food" and helps strengthen the bond when fed by hand. Share some family dinner with him, preferably on a stand by the dining table.

Watch TV together and preen his head feathers for him while you hang out on the couch. Include him in lots of family activities to help him feel a part of the flock. If everyone is gone to work or school during the day, leave a radio or TV on and make sure he's got plenty of interesting toys that provide both chewing exercise and mental stimulation. Talk to him before leaving, tell him he's okay and reassure him that you'll be back. When you do return give him a warm hello and a big hug. If you do have other birds, try to maintain the flock order. It won't help him relax if the other birds are resentful of all the attention the new guy gets.

Always address your primary bird first - first one out, first one kissed, first one fed, etc. Don't allow the birds to get together until you're sure everyone gets along. First time together, it's helpful if it's on a neutral new stand that no one is territorial about. If you expect the two to ultimately share a cage, remember that will take time and patience - you don't want the new guy intimidated by an overbearing dominant "resident" who thinks he runs the place.

An important point to remember - don't make the mistake of totally doting on the bird at first, then ignoring him after the novelty wears off. He'll definitely need extra attention in the beginning, but try to maintain a balance from the start, to avoid rebound problems down the road. So be prepared, go slow, build trust, and have fun getting to know each other. This is the beginning of a beautiful lifelong friendship.

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Your Parrot Place
Marilu Anderson, Bird Nutrition and Behavior Consultant, (503) 771-BIRD. Marilu is a regular contributor to the Your Parrot Place Newsletter. <a target="_new" href="http://1mc.tmkhosting.com/track.php?action=mtrack&id=3&track=28">YourParrotPlace.com</a> - Only the Best for Your Parrot!

Free eBook!
140 pages! A compilation of parrot articles from 2000-2004.
<a target="_new" href="http://1mc.tmkhosting.com/track.php?action=mtrack&id=3&track=29">http://www.yourparrotplace.com/ebooks/ypp2004ebook.htm</a>

How to Buy a Purebred Dog

If you decide you want a purebred, make sure it's because you love the breed since purebreds are often not as resilient as mixed breeds. Consider carefully why you want a purebred. Many people will want a purebred because it conveys some symbol of status on them. Purebreds are prone to many illnesses due to inbreeding, and having a purebred could become a costly affair.

If you simply want a companion consider a mixed breed. There is nothing a mix breed puppy cannot offer you in terms of love, companionship and devotion, and there are many mixed breed dogs already born, looking for homes.

When you discover you are in love with a particular breed, do some research to find out if the breed is compatible with your lifestyle. Pay special attention to breed characteristics, size, hair length, and amount of exercise required.

Talk to breed rescue centers. They will tell you what to look out for. No one has more experience on the breed as the dedicated volunteers and professionals who rescue the purebred dogs when they are no longer wanted. Learn how a typical dog of your beloved breed behaves and whether that is a fit for your lifestyle and your entire family.

Keep in mind how much room your dog will have, how much exercise you are able to handle daily, grooming needs, and how much maintenance they will require. Your rescue organization will also give you the "dumping factor" what the most common reason is for this breed being abandoned by their families.

Make sure everyone in your family is committed to interacting with the dog daily - the quality of life for your dog is based on healthy and constant social interaction. If your family cannot provide huge amounts of time, and if your dog is going to be home alone during the day, consider getting two dogs so that they can keep one another company. No matter what the breed, two dogs are no more trouble than one.

Make sure that you can guarantee a lifetime of dedication to your new dog.

To locate a dog, check out the pounds online. As many as 25% of the dogs in pounds ARE purebreds, and surprisingly there ARE puppies. To find a dog in a pound in your neighborhood, you can go online at http://www.Muttshack.org, type in your area code and look at the photos of dogs in the shelters near your home.

Next try the special breed rescue centers. They frequently rescue purebreds from the pounds because of their love and devotion to the breed. They may give you truly valuable advice about your new dog. If they don't have one, consider waiting. It won't take long!

If you can't find your purebred puppy or dog already in need of a home, look for a breeder. You will need to find a reputable breeder to give you the best chance of a healthy dog with a sound temperament. Problems with irresponsible breeders range from purebreds that are inbred, causing litters that suffer from illnesses and congenital diseases to others guilty of &quot;litter stuffing&quot; - offering puppies from another mother, to be sold under the auspices of a &quot;Champion&quot; to get more money.

Visit their facilities and meet their dogs. Facilities should be clean. See how their dogs behave, and if that is the behavior you want from your dog. All dogs should be healthy, clean, and free of parasites. A good breeder will screen breeding stock for common health problems before breeding and will be happy to share that information with you. Tests should be done on the stud and the bitch. When you find a breeder you want, then wait for a litter. A good breeder will require a sales agreement that clearly spells out the obligations for everyone involved.

Get a complete veterinary exam within 24 hours of picking up your puppy. Make sure you have him micro-chipped, and get an ID tag.

Make sure every member of your family is equally well trained in handling the dog. Make sure every member of your family knows that dogs can nip and bite, when they are playful. (A nip is NOT an attack!) Kids need to learn to be around a dog as much as the dog learns how to listen to commands. Make sure your family are all ready to walk the dog, feed the dog, brush the dog, and pick up after the dog.

A bred dog becomes your personal responsibility.

If sometime in the future, you have to relocate to another home or apartment, you HAVE to find an apartment or home that allows dogs. If you cannot find such a home, or make a specific agreement with your new landlord, be a loving and responsible guardian and find your dog a new home too with another family. You are his only chance at life. Don't drop him off at the pound. Since 56% of dogs including purebreds entering shelters are euthanized, your older dog, depressed with a broken heart will easily be overlooked. Shelter descriptions are cursory, and if your dog acts slightly defensively he will be marked "fractious" and be killed. You are the most qualified person to find your dog a new home. Go to MuttShack.org and learn where to advertise, and how to promote your dog.

People moving are the cause of the death of millions of dogs yearly when they are dumped at the pound like some disposable commodity as unwanted as old garden furniture.

If you made the choice to bring a dog into this world through your breeder, you should see it through to his dying day. Society is no longer finding it acceptable to have to take in a dog when the owner's whim has passed him by. There are many more dogs than homes. Don't think your dog (even a purebred) will be any more special than millions of other dogs that have to be euthanized every year.

Become a "Dog Person". Fight for dogparks, dog friendly apartments, dog beaches, dog restaurants and dog safe shelters. Let your new puppy inspire you! Sharing your life with a dog is simply awesome!

Some good books to read are: "Man Meets Dog" by Donald McCraig, "Lost and Found" by Elizabeth Hess, "Disposable Animals" by Craig Brestrup, and "The Illustrated Veterinary Guide" by Pinney.

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Rescue and Animal Foster

About Muttshack:
Muttshack Foundation is a 501((c)3) non-profit, a project of the National Heritage Foundation, established in 1968. MuttShack Foster and Animal Rescue promotes the education and creation of foster homes for abandoned and abused animals.

Muttshackers rescue animals from shelters, and from the streets, rehabilitate and nurture them to health in homes (MuttShacks) and find them quality, permanent new families.

By intervening and rescuing shelter animals about to be put to sleep, MuttShack fostering stops the senseless killing of healthy animals in overcrowded shelters. Donations Saves Lives.

Visit MuttShack Lifelines<Br> <a target="_new" href="http://www.photochains.com/view/MuttShack_LifeLine_South_LA">http://www.photochains.com/view/MuttShack_LifeLine_South_LA</a>

Support Muttshack Animal Rescue. DONATE and we will rescue on your behalf! [<a target="_new" href="https://www.registrationfactory.com/v3/?EventUUID=B47421FD">https://www.registrationfactory.com/v3/?EventUUID=B47421FD</a>] Donate by Paypal to payments at <a target="_new" href="http://www.muttshack.org">muttshack.org</a>.

Training Your Dog?Is It Worth The Effort Or Is It Just A Waste Of Time?

Many people feel that taking the time to train their puppy or dog isn't worth the effort. What with everything else we have to do these days in our busy lives, whose got the time?

Kimberley was just like that. She'd never bothered training Jack?but then, one day?

Kimberly and Jack ran excitedly up to the top of the escarpment and gazed out over the deep blue ocean waves as they rolled in from the east. The sun was just appearing over the horizon, the cool sea breeze on her face made her feel completely alive, and Kimberley was as contented as she had ever been.

The time she spent with Jack, the 3 year old German shepherd she had rescued from the animal shelter a few months earlier, was the most precious part of her life. He seemed to know just what she was thinking and was devoted to Kim to the point of being a fanatic.

He wouldn't leave her side?unlike most of the other male companions she had previously had in her life.

Jack was the perfect companion.

He gave her unconditional love, he was always there for her when she needed to talk to someone, he lavished his undivided attention on her, he never spoke back, and was always waiting patiently for her when she came home from her work at the pharmacy.

The early morning walks they shared helped her forget the many troubles in her life, and allowed her just enjoy herself.

This morning was special.

She was on the first day of her annual two-week vacation, and had plans to take Jack up to the mountains hiking and camping for a few days later in the week.

The thought of getting away from the pressures of daily life made her feel a rush of adrenaline and Jack could sense her excitement, yelping and barking playfully as they frolicked in the grass at the top of the ridge.

They played for over half an hour, then turned to head for home to have something to eat.

Maybe it was the excitement of it all, but for whatever reason, Kimberly wasn't thinking straight as she undid Jack's leash to let him run on his own through the grassy fields as they descended the hill towards the township below.

It happened in an instant.

Jack caught sight of a rabbit hiding in the grass and took off after the animal in a frenzied rush of excitement and playful enthusiasm.

Kimberley called him back, but he was totally focused on catching the rabbit and heard nothing but the creature's cries for help as it raced towards the safety of its borough.

Jack was a beautiful sight to behold as he chased the rabbit in full flight across the grassy field. Every second he gained on the small creature, until he was only 10 feet behind it and closing fast.

But Kim was looking on in horror.

The rabbit had built its borough close to the edge of the cliff, and Jack was running at full speed towards the huge drop down to the ocean below.

Kim could feel the fear welling up inside her and she frantically called him back as she ran towards the cliff top herself. &quot;Stop Jack!&quot;, she cried, but he paid no attention to her commands as he chased the rabbit towards the cliff top.

Just 6 feet short of the cliff's edge, the rabbit dropped into the safety of it's home below ground.

Jack didn't see where the animal went, and in the few seconds it took for him to realize that the rabbit had escaped, his momentum carried him off the cliff and over the edge.

Kimberley screamed as she saw her beloved companion disappear out of sight. &quot;No!&quot; she cried as she ran headlong towards the jagged cliff top.

She peered over the edge with tears streaming down her cheeks, fearing that her best friend had fallen all the way to the rocks below.

She moved closer to the edge screaming out to Jack, praying that by some miracle, he had survived.

As she lay down to look over the edge, she saw Jack wedged precariously next to a tree stump on a small outcrop about 20 feet below, injured, but alive.

If he had gone off the cliff just 3 feet either side of where he did, he would have fallen hundreds of feet to the rocks below. His life had been spared, at least at the moment, by the narrowest of margins.

A huge feeling of relief welled up through Kimberley's body as she saw that Jack was still alive.

She pulled out her mobile phone and called the police.

She quickly explained what had happened to the officer on the line and a team of rescue workers were dispatched to the cliff top to rescue Jack.

Kimberley watched on with trepidation as the rescue team carefully winched her beloved Jack to safety from the outcrop that had saved his life.

He had broken his left rear leg and had some cuts and abrasions, but on the whole, he was a very lucky dog that day?and Kimberley knew it.

She looked towards the sky and gave thanks that her best friend had been spared.

She promised herself that as soon as Jack was back on four legs, she would start to train him to obey her commands so that something like this could never happen again.

She felt guilty that her neglect at not training him properly from the start could have cost this beautiful animal his life. She felt sad but also happy that she had been given another chance with Jack, and she wasn't about to waste it.

3 Months Later?

Kimberley and Jack are again able to take their early morning walks, but now, Jack's lead is an option.

He obeys Kimberley's every command, and they have a deep, new found respect for each other's abilities that goes far beyond their roles of dog and master. They are truly great friends.

Maybe you don't take your shepherd for off leash walks near cliff tops, but there are lots of hazards just as dangerous around your home that can cause your favourite pet to hurt himself?or worse.

Running into moving traffic, drinking something poisonous around your home, jumping the fence and getting into fights with other dogs?these are all situations that proper training can severely restrict or eliminate.

Think for a moment of how you would feel if your wonderful dog was injured or killed by a car right in front of you because he ran out onto the road despite your calls for him to come back.

Training is vital for every pet so that they know what is expected of them and they stay safe in an increasingly dangerous world. And properly training your pet is your responsibility.

Please, take the time to train your dog. If you don't know where to start, there are plenty of good books around to help.

Another option is to take him to obedience classes in your local area.

This is the most focused training you can give him (and yourself?) but it's also the most time consuming and expensive.

If you have the time and financial resources, it's usually the best way (if you can find a good trainer), but if you don't, then reading a good training book and following it's instructions will give you a solid grounding on how to train your dog properly.

Train him well, and he will reward you for it in so many ways that you can't imagine.

Rocky Tapscott is an author and owner of Just German Shepherds.com For free information and articles on buying, training and living with German shepherds, or any dog for that matter, come and visit us at, <a target="_new" href="http://www.just-german-shepherds.com/">http://www.just-german-shepherds.com/</a>

วันพุธที่ 26 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2551

What You Need To Know To Keep Your Dog Safe In Your Car

Man's Best Friend is a great companion around the home, but Rover will love joining you on road trips - short or long - as well. If you've tried taking your dog along in the car before and met with bad results, don't give up. It might take a little longer to help your pet feel comfortable after a bad experience, but you can train your dog to ride quietly in the car. It requires foresight and patience on your part, but the rewards are worth it.

What kind of personality does your dog have? Is she a confident, mellow pooch or a high-energy, somewhat fearful animal? Consider, too, your relationship with your dog. Does she see you as the pack leader and obey your commands? Both of these factors have an impact on how much work you'll need to do before the two of you hit the road. A dog that is calm by nature and obedient will more quickly adjust to sitting still in a moving vehicle. On the other hand, a "hyper" animal that doesn't respond to basic obedience commands requires specific training to ensure her (and your) safety in the car.

Remember not to shout at Rover if she does something wrong - this will only upset her and may make her misbehave even more.

An uncontrolled animal is a serious car accident waiting to happen. It is important to keep your dog confined to one area of the car. This might be the back of a truck or SUV, a kennel, or simply sitting on the seat, secured by a safety harness designed for use in cars. If you plan on using a safety harness, introduce it to your dog outside of the car. Let her sniff and otherwise investigate it. Drape it over her and praise her when she stands quietly. If she shakes it off and runs, try again using treats and only placing it against her so she gets the feel of it.

Once she accepts having it placed over her, let her wear it while you take walks or sitting in her kennel. Be sure to give her treats and verbal praise whenever you put the safety harness on her. Make sure you have her favorite toy in the car, and a trusted human friend sitting beside her will help relax her too. You want your dog to associate the car with positive things.

The same holds true for car rides in general. If the only time your dog rides in the car is to go to the vet's surgery she'll associate the car with an unpleasant experience. Let Rover sit in the car while it is parked to let her get used to sitting in the car. Once your dog is used to sitting in a confined space, take her for short rides. If she has gotten carsick in the past, drive slowly along as straight a path as possible. Take her for a ride at least once a day, slowly increasing the distance and speed. Talk to her in a happy voice as you go, and give her a treat before you take her out, so she connects the car ride to something yummy.

The sight of a dog with her head out the car window, nose in the wind, makes just about everyone smile. Smell is your dog's best sense. With the window down, she's picking up all kinds of new, interesting smells. This stimulating experience is fine at slow speeds for short distances, be careful about letting your dog make it a habit. While dogs love the feel of the wind in their noses, dust and debris can cause respiratory problems.

If you can ensure that your dog is safe, and enjoying herself, in the car, you will find that going for a drive with your best friend will enhance both your life, and Rover's, too.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.best-pet-health.info">Best Pet Health Information</a> <a target="_new" href="http://www.best-pet-health.info">http://www.best-pet-health.info</a> is a resource which will help you find infomation, hints and tips to keep your dog happy and healthy.

Those Amazing Dog Noses -- Fun Facts About A Chilly Little Organ

If you thought dog noses were just a source of smeary prints on your windows, think again!

======== How Nose Prints save dog's lives ======

Nose prints are used to identify dogs in the same way finger prints are used to identify human beings. Breeders and trainers keep a dog's nose prints on file as part of its permanent record and insurance companies now require them whenever a dog is to be bonded. At one time paw prints were used as a means of canine identification, but these proved less accurate than noses. And while some owners have had microchips "installed" in their pets, these are more invasive and can be detected and removed. If you dog is ever lost or stolen, having his nose print on record could save his life!

====== Why Dog Noses are Wet =======

Why are dog noses wet? Fluid from the lateral glands in a dog's nose lubricates the outsides of his nostrils and makes them moist and shiny. But mostly, the nose stays wet because your dog is always licking it (along with other parts). So, a moist nose has generally been considered as a healthy nose, but this isn't always true. For example, if a dog falls asleep in a hot place, his nose may be dry when he first wakes up. Once he cools down and has a little Gatorade (kidding!) -- I mean, gets rehydrated, his nose will soon look wet again.

Distemper can permanently alter the nasal glands. So, a dog who suffers from distemper early in life may have a perpetually dry nose.

======= Why Dog Noses are Cold =======

Cold normally goes along with wet, which I heard has something to do with convection cooling, or some such law of physics, which I've long forgotten. So, if a dog's nose dries out (see above), it will feel warm to the touch. This is OK, as long as the nose gets wet again. However, a chronically dry nose could be sign of illness and should be seen by a vet.

Note: if you have concerns about your dog's nose and health, be sure to check with your vet!

======= Why Dog Noses are hard to fool ========

We know that dogs have traditionally been used for tracking, search and rescue due to their keen sense of smell.

A dog's sense of smell is about 40,000 times better than ours, and that's not all. You can't throw a dog off by "covering up" one smell with another. A study was done in which a number of different objects were sprayed with skunk odor, and trained tracking dogs were still able to distinguish the objects from each other! So forget about trying to fool Fido!

Here's another intriguing story about the dog's famous sense of smell: A yellow lab named Parker wasn't a trained "nose dog", but liked to sniff everything, all the time. Then he began to constantly sniff a blemish on his owner's leg, which had been there for a number of years. The dog was pushing his nose hard into the area, and really concentrating. So, the owner decided to have it looked at. The skin specialist immediately detected the early signs of skin cancer, and ordered the blemish removed immediately. Once the lesion was gone, Parker lost interest in the leg! Similar stories have reportedly led doctors in the US to train dogs to "sniff out" skin cancer. Apparently, dogs can detect skin cancer long before any conventional methods can!! More recently, dogs have been given urine samples from cancer victims to see if they can also smell bladder and prostate cancer. The results have been promising.

====== Fun with Dog Noses =======

There are only a few websites that devote themselves entirely to this quirky topic, but they're always worth a visit if you're a fan of "the nose". They're loads of fun--a real nose full!

Try searching for "dog noses" on eBay. I did, and found a cute rubber dog nose mask complete with whiskers for a couple of bucks!

? 2004, Carolyn Schweitzer. Lifelong dog-lover, power-shopper, and former family dentist Carolyn Schweitzer is owner and editor of Great-Dog-Gift.com where she offers a wide range of choices for dog gift shoppers, plus shopping and gift-giving tips. (Also advice on dog care and feeding.)

Visit the site to see the full illustrated article with links to <a target="_new" href="http://www.great-dog-gift.com/dog_noses.html">more information about dog noses and fun dog nose websites</a>

You can reach Carolyn by email at <a href="mailto:netbrainer@verizon.net">netbrainer@verizon.net</a>.

Lemon Tetra - A Perfect Addition for Your Community Aquarium

Lemon Tetra

Glassily transparent, the lemon tetra (hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis) could appear to be just a sunbeam flashing through your community tank if not for background elements like plants and driftwood. Another member of the large characin clan, the lemon tetra has a fairly elongated body like its smaller relative the neon tetra and like neons and other characins, the lemon tetra does best if kept in small schools of six to eight fish.

One of the most distinguishing features of the lemon tetra is their large eyes. The upper part of the lemon tetra's eye is brilliant red, which is a sharp contrast to the yellow pastels it displays in its body colors. Actually, though, the lemon tetra is quite colorful on close inspection. Body coloring is a delicate pale yellow, flanks are silver, and the leading edge of the anal fin is shiny-bright-yellow and sharply divided from the other rays, which are black. In the male, the rest of the anal fin is broad and fringed in black, a characteristic that is missing in the plumper female. As many male characins do, the male lemon tetras also have tiny hooks on their anal fins. Both males and females have the tetras' characteristic adipose fin, which is also pale yellow in color.

Although omnivorous and able to exist on a diet of flaked food, the pale yellow color of the lemon tetra displays best if the fish's standard diet is well supplemented with live treats. The lemon tetra is an egg-scatterer. However, breeding can be tricky since females often have a problem expelling their eggs and after spawning, the lemon tetra like many others of its species, is quick to cannibalize its eggs if not removed from the breeding tank. However, eggs will hatch in about 24 hours after spawning. Fry should be fed a live diet and if they survive, they'll be about two inches long as adults.

Hans is author of <a target="_new" href="http://www.aquarium-guides.com/product-pages/prod-tetra-fish.htm"> Tetra Fish and Cichilds</a> sections on <a target="_new" href="http://www.aquarium-guides.com">aquarium-guides.com</a> For more reviews visit our site.

วันอังคารที่ 25 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2551

How To Get Your Horse To Obey You and Look To You For Instruction

In the animal kingdom there is a pecking order. Richard Shrake points out that it's a lot like the military. He ranks in the pecking order go from General down to Private. The General will get first pick of the food, decide where to go and when, and so on.

The &quot;second in command&quot; will act just like the General but he won't pick on the General because the General dominates him. This string of command continues all the way down to the bottom of the pecking order. Any time a new animal comes into the group then the pecking order shifts. Knowing this information, you can use it to your advantage. You can make yourself the leader in the horse's eyes. He'll look to you for instruction. He'll obey you.

If you have a dominant horse it will be instinct for him to let a more dominant being make the decisions. In this case the dominant being will be you. You will become leader by using your body language to show you are confident. Being dominant doesn't mean you're being aggressive.

On the other hand, if your horse is the General, you may have to be more assertive. Make sure your horse doesn't think you're a threat. It's easy to come across as threatening when you're being assertive. If your horse feels threatened he'll fight back and you can't win. And if you are doing horse training, you will find it hard to get results.

In the wild, dominant and aggressive horses will make their bodies tight and make sudden moves with fury while getting into the other horse's space. The weaker horse will concede and move out of his space. Think of it as the General screaming an order and the Private is obeying.

Slow movements tend to draw one horse to another. Horses express calmness with relaxed, slow steps. This is how they welcome other horses in their space.

If a horse is trying to show you he's the General you may see a clamped-down tail with pinned ears. To get him to accept you as the General you will move him out of his space. You do this by matching any quick moves he makes with your own quick moves. The trick is to make the first strike before he does.

One way to do this is with a quick arm movement towards him ? almost like you're violently shooing away some pesky flies. Also, you can use an aggressive tone of voice towards a horse if he's being aggressive.

How can you tell if he's conceding to you? If he turns his head or drops it, relaxes his tail, begins chewing, or takes a deep breath, then that's how you know. If any of these happen he's saying, &quot;Okay, I'll do what you say because I want to listen to you.&quot; Pay attention to these clues that tell you your horse is in the Private mode (the follower) instead of the General mode.

When you go into the round pen to work with your horse first check to see how he responds to you. If he rubs his head on you or swings his rear end toward you then he's challenging your position in the pecking order. If you're with a horse that's not dominant you want to make sure he has confidence. Thus, be very careful not to be threatening.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com</a>. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm</a>.