วันอังคารที่ 30 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551

How To Get Your Horse To Obey You and Look To You For Instruction

In the animal kingdom there is a pecking order. Richard Shrake points out that it's a lot like the military. He ranks in the pecking order go from General down to Private. The General will get first pick of the food, decide where to go and when, and so on.</p><p>The &quot;second in command&quot; will act just like the General but he won't pick on the General because the General dominates him. This string of command continues all the way down to the bottom of the pecking order. Any time a new animal comes into the group then the pecking order shifts. Knowing this information, you can use it to your advantage. You can make yourself the leader in the horse's eyes. He'll look to you for instruction. He'll obey you.</p><p>If you have a dominant horse it will be instinct for him to let a more dominant being make the decisions. In this case the dominant being will be you. You will become leader by using your body language to show you are confident. Being dominant doesn't mean you're being aggressive.</p><p>On the other hand, if your horse is the General, you may have to be more assertive. Make sure your horse doesn't think you're a threat. It's easy to come across as threatening when you're being assertive. If your horse feels threatened he'll fight back and you can't win. And if you are doing horse training, you will find it hard to get results.</p><p>In the wild, dominant and aggressive horses will make their bodies tight and make sudden moves with fury while getting into the other horse's space. The weaker horse will concede and move out of his space. Think of it as the General screaming an order and the Private is obeying.</p><p>Slow movements tend to draw one horse to another. Horses express calmness with relaxed, slow steps. This is how they welcome other horses in their space.</p><p>If a horse is trying to show you he's the General you may see a clamped-down tail with pinned ears. To get him to accept you as the General you will move him out of his space. You do this by matching any quick moves he makes with your own quick moves. The trick is to make the first strike before he does.</p><p>One way to do this is with a quick arm movement towards him ? almost like you're violently shooing away some pesky flies. Also, you can use an aggressive tone of voice towards a horse if he's being aggressive.</p><p>How can you tell if he's conceding to you? If he turns his head or drops it, relaxes his tail, begins chewing, or takes a deep breath, then that's how you know. If any of these happen he's saying, &quot;Okay, I'll do what you say because I want to listen to you.&quot; Pay attention to these clues that tell you your horse is in the Private mode (the follower) instead of the General mode.</p><p>When you go into the round pen to work with your horse first check to see how he responds to you. If he rubs his head on you or swings his rear end toward you then he's challenging your position in the pecking order. If you're with a horse that's not dominant you want to make sure he has confidence. Thus, be very careful not to be threatening.</p><p>About The Author</p><p>Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com</a>. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm</a>.

The Right Way to Use Electronic Dog Training Collars

As with every training tool used to modify a behavior in your pet, electronic dog training collars need to be used correctly in order to be effective.</p><p>Some dog owners buy an electronic dog training collar because their pooch doesn't follow orders consistently, or at all. As soon as they get home, they strap it on, expecting some sort of miracle. And when doggie decides to do something special, like growl at another dog, his owner zaps the animal.</p><p>However, with no conditioning, the dog won't know what to do, and will immediately be scared. What he'll learn from this process is not to stop growling, but instead, how to avoid the pain. Quickly he'll figure out one of probably three different methods of avoidance:</p><p>? RUN as far and as fast as he can, until the zapping stops;</p><p>? FREEZE and do nothing until the zapping stops; or</p><p>? FIND his owner.</p><p>None of these three responses to the electronic dog training collar, however, teach the dog anything new. If anything, they reinforce more bad behavior: if he RUNS, or FREEZES, he learns an avoidance technique of the pain, but doesn't change the behavior, or he FINDS his owner, and starts to associate safety with the owner's presence, and loses his independence.</p><p>This article will detail the proper ways to modify your dog's behavior using an electronic dog training collar, so that you don't encounter these frustrating mishaps.</p><p>Learn the Proper Command</p><p>Before you start using an electronic dog training collar, your dog must first understand what is being asked of him. There are no shortcuts during this step, and it can take longer or shorter depending on your dog's temperament, breed, and time allotted. Be patient.</p><p>At this stage, the only thing that needs to be done is to show the dog what you want them to do, along with constantly repeating the action. So, if you want your dog to kneel, you would show the dog what kneeling is, and say, &quot;Kneel, kneel, kneel.&quot;</p><p>This stage is NOT a punishment stage, so no disciplinary action should be taken. Just work with your dog a lot until he understands what you are trying to tell him, and associates the word with the action.</p><p>Once this has been achieved, now is the time to test your electronic dog training collar. Find out at what level your dog responds to, and do NOT use a level higher than that. Watch your dog carefully during this testing phase; he should not be in pain, yelp or get scared, he should only be mildly uncomfortable.</p><p>Now you are ready to try all of what you've learned, together. Before you ask your dog to kneel, push turn on the electronic dog collar. Then, immediately say, &quot;Kneel,&quot; until your dog responds. After a couple of tries over an extended period of time, your dog will start responding to the command faster than he does the stimulation. Soon, you'll only be using the electronic dog collar to remind your dog to listen to your &quot;Kneel&quot; command, instead of using it each time.</p><p>(c) 2005 dog-training-info.com. This article may be republished as long as these bylines are included.</p><p>Kevin Simmons is the webmaster of <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-training-info.com">http://www.dog-training-info.com</a>. Please visit the site for more free dog training articles. Online URL for this article: <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-training-info.com/dog-training-collar.htm">http://www.dog-training-info.com/dog-training-collar.htm</a>

Canine Parvovirus

Canine Parvovirus, is a viral disease that attacks dogs and if left untreated, it kills them within day's, usually due to dehydration and it's side effects.</p><p>Parvo is caused by a virus present in the faeces of infected dogs. Other dogs and pups pick up the parvo virus through eating food off the ground, chewing bones on the dirt, licking each other... there is so much parvo virus in the environment that older dogs have become somewhat immune to it, however puppies are very susceptible, especially from around weaning age at 5 to 8 weeks.</p><p>Parvo symptoms include severe depression and a loss of appetite, followed by a high fever, vomiting, diarrhoea and dehydration</p><p>The infected dog will pass bloody stools within 24 hours. Puppies infected with parvo usually die within 48 hours if left untreated.</p><p>The virus initially lodges and multiplys in the lymph nodes of the throat and in 3 or 4 days it spreads to the bone marrow and the gastro-intestinal tract. All three sites contain the rapidly multiplying cells that the virus needs. In the bone marrow it kills the young immune system cells, and as such a low white cell count is the first clinical sign of possible parvo virus infection. Having a low white cell count also means that the host dog cannot fight the infection.</p><p>While this is happening the parvo virus is attacking the gastro intestinal tract, killing new cells of the intestine walls before they have a chance to grow. This results in an inability to absorb nutrients, causing acute diarrhoea. The intestinal wall becomes so damaged that bleeding occurs, allowing bacterial infections to take hold.</p><p>Therefore puppies can die from either severe dehydration and shock, bacterial infection... or more commonly,both.</p><p>You can't treat parvo with antibiotics, however, they are routinely given to prevent secondary bacterial infections setting in, while the dog's immune system is actively fighting the virus.</p><p>The best treatment for parvo is prevention. And the best form of prevention is Vaccinating, which should be mandatory for all puppies before they are 3 months old. Follow up every 12 months with a booster shot.</p><p>You should vaccinate pregnant broody's with a killed parvovirus vaccine, either before mating, or 2 weeks before her puppies are born. This will pass on protection to the puppies until they are about 6 weeks old, or until they stop suckling. The danger period for puppies is between weaning at 5 to 8 weeks old, and 3 months of age, when they should get their full shots.</p><p>On dog farms and in breeding barns, it's advisable to give puppies a 4 in 1 shot that includes parvovirus and corona virus vaccines at about 7 weeks, followed by their full 5 in 1 shot which includes Leptovirus vaccine at 3 months of age.</p><p>The only way to kill parvo in the environment is with either Bleach diluted 30 to 1 with water, or some other proprietary brand containing bleach. If the infected area is left dormant, the parvo will die in the ground in around 7 months, but you would be well advised to leave them vacant for 1 to 2 years. Freezing protects parvovirus cells, so if the ground is snowbound in winter, it may be at least 2 years before it is safe to allow puppies on it again.</p><p>Russell Savige has been breeding and rearing greyhounds since 1986. His website <a target="_new" href="http://www.training-dog-breeds.com">http://www.training-dog-breeds.com</a> has an extensive collection of dog related articles.

Shut The Door Buddy: Simple Dog Tricks To Teach and Impress

The shutting and opening door trick can be taught to all dog breeds. The only consideration maybe would be asking small size dogs to close large or heavy doors which are beyond their physical capabilities.</p><p>In teaching this trick select a door that swings easily on its hinges; drive a nail, or simply stick with double sided a makeshift hook on your door at such a distance above the floor that the dog can just reach it by standing on his hind legs with his forefeet resting against the door.</p><p>Open the door a few inches, place a small piece of treat on the hook and call your dog's attention to it, saying &quot;Shut the door.&quot; In reaching for the treat the dog will place his forefeet on the door and this will close it. If preferable the treat can be balanced on the door handle, and shutting the door will jar it to the floor, when he should be allowed to eat it and be petted and praised.</p><p>After be has done this a few times you can advance him in his lessons by placing the treat in position while he is in another room, then call him in and say &quot;Shut the door,&quot; directing him toward it, and if he does not go, show him the treat and encourage him to get it. In time he will understand the order and will close any door that is shown to him.</p><p>Finally, teach him to close the door without having any reward in sight, but after he shuts it in response to your command reward him with a treat. In the first lessons you need not be particular about having the door closed tight, but in later stages, insist upon its being done before any reward is given.</p><p>Dogs can be taught easily to open swinging doors, but opening fastened doors is a much more difficult act, and is possible only with those that have the easiest and simplest latches.</p><p>To teach a dog to open a swinging door call his attention to it and push it open at the bottom. Do this a number of times every day for several days, then go through the door, closing it after you, and leave your dog on the other side; call him and he will soon learn to push the door open in order to reach you.</p><p>To teach a dog to open a latch, hold the dog up to it and push it back with his paw, and say &quot;open door&quot; to associate this trick with this command and continue to give him practice in this way until he will push it back without your assistance.</p><p>About the Author:<br> Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of <a target="_new" href="http://dogsobediencetraining.com/">DogsObedienceTraining.com</a> ? The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog.</p><p>You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

How To Stop Your Cat Spraying

The cat backs up to the door, lifts the tail and releases a fine spray of urine. Yes, your cat is spraying. You have a problem. But one you can solve.</p><p>Figures from the British Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors say that aggression in dogs and marking behavior in cats are the biggest behavior problems in the UK pet population.</p><p>Spraying is marking behavior, not a litter box problem. Sprayed cat urine contains pheromones, a substance that animals use to communicate. Combinations of pheromones work like fingerprints: they identify the cat.</p><p>A spraying cat marks his or her territory with cat urine. It simply says: 'This is mine'. You may not like it, but getting angry doesn't help. It may even have an opposite effect: more spraying.</p><p>Cats in heat are attracted by the odor of cat urine. For them, spraying is something like an invitation to love. The results may be there in 65 days: a nest of cute little kittens.</p><p>Cats do not only spray during sexual encounters. Some also do it during conflicts with other felines, or when they are stressed.</p><p>For people the scent is far from pleasant. Thankfully most cats spray outside. But what if you have a cat spraying inside? Do something about it! And yes, that is possible.</p><p>The most radical and effective thing you can do is neutering or spaying your cat. Most castrated toms stopped spraying from the day they were operated.</p><p>But maybe you have a reason not to neuter your cat. In that case try to find out why your cat sprays.</p><p>Maybe it sprays only when it sees another cat. Solution: block the view. Or it sprays because of a conflict with another pet. Keep them separated and problems might be over.</p><p>If you don't know why your cat sprays, discuss it with your veterinarian. Chances are he will advice you to spay or neuter. But your vet can also check if there is a medical problem.</p><p>Anyway, do not leave this problem unsolved. Cat urine odor and stains can make your home a very uncomfortable place, and your cat will still remain a cat even when it doesn't spray anymore.</p><p>--------------------------------------<br> Journalist, site builder and cat lover Marc de Jong is the editor and owner of <a target="_new" href="http://www.cat-pregnancy-report.com">http://www.cat-pregnancy-report.com</a>, a website about cat pregnancy, kitten care, cat health and other cat related subjects.

How To Use Horse Training Thinking To Solve Dang Near Any Problem With A Horse

Horse training can be a relatively mysterious subject to people who have not studied it. Even more mysterious is a behavioral problem a horse has that causes his owner stress and frustration.</p><p>What many horse owners don't understand is often the handler, not the horse, is causing the problem.</p><p>That being said, that is the first consideration in unscrambling the horse's ill behavior.</p><p>For instance, a common problem riders have is a horse being spooky. In layman's terms, that means a horse is nervous and afraid something is going to "get him". Thus, whenever the horse and owner go for a ride it's not usually a relaxing moment.</p><p>As a matter of fact, both horse and rider are on edge.</p><p>So if we take the premise that the rider is causing the horse to spook, then we must ask, "How is the rider causing this."</p><p>An uninformed rider may not be aware that perhaps he is sitting tensely in the saddle. Also, maybe he's stiff as a board and has a white-knuckle hold on the reins.</p><p>Believe it or not, the horse can sense and feel this tense. When the horse is in the habit of feeling it then the horse's spookiness is also the rider's.</p><p>Picture it like this. Two deathly scared kids are walking home at night. They both hear sounds and see things. One kid thinks he saw something and nervously asks, "D-d-d-did you see that?" Seconds later the other kid hears something and cries, "D-d-did you h-h-hear that?" Together they intensify each other's fears and their anxiety grows leaps and bounds.</p><p>So it is with the rider and horse. Maybe not to that extent, but still it happens.</p><p>And since the rider is human and capable of reasoning, then he or she must be the one to interrupt the pattern of behavior. The rider must loosen up while in the saddle. Relax. Have fun. Learn to watch the horse's signals that he has spotted something - and then talk to the horse and start giving him confidence.</p><p>Soon, the horse's demeanor will change and the result will be a more relaxed, fun to ride horse.</p><p>Whether the rider realizes it or not, he or she is training the horse by just riding. The horse simply reacts to the stimuli he gets. If the stimuli is consistent, the horse's reaction will become a habit until changed. If the stimuli is tense, causes fear reactions, and so on, the result is a spooky horse.</p><p>This is but one example of how us humans can actually be the reason the horse does or does not do something we ask of him. Although it's true that the rider is not the cause 100% of the time, it's a good place to start untangling the problem because it's often where it begins.</p><p>About The Author</p><p>Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com</a>. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm</a>.

วันจันทร์ที่ 29 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551

Westie Merchandise that Benefits your Dog

There are many places to find Westie merchandise, but before you make a purchase for yourself or your Westie, consider first a retailer or non-profit organization that uses sales of Westie merchandise to benefit the breed.</p><p>WestieMed, Inc. is a non-profit organization that specifically targets rescued Westies that are injured or ill. Along with donations, WestieMed uses sales of Westie merchandise to pay for medical care for these special-needs dogs while homes are found for them. Westie merchandise that can be purchased from their gift shop includes clothing, novelties, home and garden items, greeting cards, and Christmas ornaments. They also benefit from sales of Westie merchandise purchased through their affiliation with Westie Breed Store when the buyer uses the link at the WestieMed website. They can be found at http://www.westiemed.com/.</p><p>The West Highland White Terrier Club of America, Inc. also offers a small selection of Westie merchandise in their fundraising effort. Their merchandise includes limited edition collector plates with images of Westies, and a few articles of clothing. Their National Rescue Committee, which is responsible for rescuing older Westies and placing them in new homes, has a larger collection of clothing and small items of Westie merchandise for their fundraising efforts. They can be found at http://www.westieclubamerica.com/. There are also links at the site to affiliated Westie clubs that are using sales of Westie merchandise for fundraising.</p><p>In addition to non-profit organizations, there are a number of retailers who have Westie merchandise available, from which a portion of the proceeds is donated to dog and animal welfare organizations. Michelle's Bark-n-Purr Toy Store is one such retailer, and offers a selection of specifically Westie merchandise, including clothing, toys, bedding, pillows, and greeting cards. Their website is at http://www.micheleswesties.com.</p><p>Also if you are looking for a lovely portrait of your pet, then look further than the website at: http://www.portraitsofpets.co.uk</p><p>If you are looking not so much for Westie merchandise but merchandise for your Westie, consider Rescue Pet Store. This retailer offers a broad spectrum of everyday pet merchandise, such as beds, collars, grooming tools, and carriers. Rescue Pet not only promises to donate 10% of your total purchase to animal rescue organizations, they let you choose the organization before you complete the sale. They can be found at http://www.rescuepetstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc.</p><p>(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)</p><p>I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.</p><p>Jeff Cuckson</p><p><a href="mailto:webmaster@madaboutwesties.com">webmaster@madaboutwesties.com</a></p><p>Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest, Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie You Have Ever Dreamed Of! Then Visit NOW! <a target="_new" href="http://www.madaboutwesties.com">http://www.madaboutwesties.com</a>

Training Collars: Teaching Your Dog Basic Obedience and Breaking Bad Habits

<h2>Training Collars</h2></p><p>Training collars are a tool many pet owners utilize to teach their pets boundaries. There are several different types and several different options available to the consumer. If you are in the market to purchase a training collar, you may want to take a few minutes to explore your options and make an informed decision on which type of training collar is for you.</p><p>Training collars help to teach the correct behavior to an animal. While they may have to wear it indefinitely, the hope is that the animal will remember and realize that certain behaviors will trigger a discomfort in the form of static shock and therefore shouldn't be done. For instance, if a pet owner decides to purchase a training collar for their dog to keep them within a yard, the training collar will trigger the animal when it steps over this boundary. But, the animal may never actually remember where that boundary is unless it feels that trigger. In other words, it will be a permanent fixture on the dog while the dog is outside.</p><p>Some training that is taught using training collars includes the following. Many hunter, police department, military, and fire workers use training collars to train their animals to serve them. The collars can be used for many reasons within a home as well. Some examples include pets that jump on people or furniture, chasing, destructive chewing, destructive digging, and more. They can also be used to teach a pet how to do good things as well including such commands like sit, stand, come, and others.</p><p>Considering these points, a pet owner who is looking to purchase a training collar should weigh which choices they would like to utilize and which are appropriate for their animal. Training collars are great tools in controlling an animal and teaching them to serve people. Without training collars, how would we be able to ensure our pet's safety and our family's? It would be much more difficult.</p><p><a target="_new" href="http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net">http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net</a></p><p>Byron Pappageorge

Tips & Guide To Looking For A Good Dog Trainer

Dog training is definitely not rocket science and is easier than you would expect particularly if you can get help from a good dog training book or guide. It's also certainly possible for almost any dog owners to train their dogs themselves provided they put in adequate amount of effort.</p><p>Nevertheless, you might still want to get additional help from a professional trainer, especially if you got a tough nut to crack in your hand. Before you engage a trainer, it's always best that you do some research first as there are many trainers with different teaching styles and not every style suit every dog or owner.</p><p>Here's a guide for you to find a reliable trainer:</p><p>Ask someone</p><p>It wouldn't hurt you to open your mouth to ask someone for advice or recommendation.</p><p>- Ask your friends, even strangers you meet in the park for the contacts of their trainer if you notice that he owns a particular well-train dog. Even if they don't engage a trainer, you could still possibly pick up some valuable training tips. You've got nothing to lose and I'll bet the owner would also most probably be flattered.</p><p>- Ask your veterinarian for recommendations. He deal with dogs everyday and must have seen the best and worse dog. He should have contacts for some good trainers in your area.</p><p>- Ask the local Humane Society, dog breeder or even your pet supplies shop owner. They are also a good source of information and might just be able to direct you to a trainer who is particularly suited to training your dog breed.</p><p>- You can also check out The Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) Trainer Directory: => http://www.apdt.com/trainers-and-owners/trainer-search/trainer-search.php</p><p>The directory has a search engine that allows you to search trainer by specific geographical location and also list out if trainers are Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT) to help you make your decision.</p><p>*CPDT is certified by the Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers an international testing and certification program for professional pet dog trainers. It is basically to ensure that the trainer has a certain level of knowledge and expertise. To be certified, trainers must have at least 300 hours of dog training experience and have passed an exam that assesses basic knowledge of canine training. For more details, visit http://www.ccpdt.org/</p><p>There are several things to look out for before you engage a trainer. You might want to consider these factors first before you engage one from a list of good contacts you got. The Trainer must have the following traits:</p><p>- must be humane and gentle with the dogs during training.</p><p>- must be an effective communicator and teacher. Both you and your dog must be able to understand his teaching for effective training. In short, &quot;Do you understand the words that are coming out of his mouth?&quot; As dog training involve both you and your dog, you must also be able to understand his teachings so that you can practice them when you get home.</p><p>- must be experience and up-to-date with the latest training methods. You might want to request a sit-in session to observe him and see if he can deal with the particularly difficult dogs. Don't be afraid to ask him questions about his training background, training techniques, methods and etc. An experience trainer should have no problem answering your questions.</p><p>Distance - This might not be a big factor but certainly one worth considering. Imagine a 4 hours drive for every training session!</p><p>Hope these tips are useful to help you look for a good dog trainer.</p><p>Good luck in your quest for a good trainer!</p><p>About the Author:<Br> Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of <a target="_new" href="http://dogsobediencetraining.com/">DogsObedienceTraining.com</a> ? The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog.</p><p>You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

My Tips to Take Care of a New Dog

So you're bringing home that cute little puppy from the best breeder after doing all that research, or you found the most adorable &quot;mutt&quot; at the pound, where you were just going to look, you swore. And now you realize that you weren't as prepared as you thought. Maybe you're planning in advance for the new bundle of joy. Either way, we'll give you some valuable tips we've learned over the years of bringing home little bundles of terror ? I mean joy :)</p><p>Learn as much as possible about potty training, and expect none of it to matter, especially when you step in their deposits at 3 a.m. in the pitch black ? it WILL happen!</p><p>Buy the smallest bag of puppy chow you can find. Your dog will hate the first one, and the second one and the third one. Buying small will help you overcome the horror of the money you've just spent on the 7th brand of dog food in 2 weeks.</p><p>Strip naked or at the very least to a swimsuit before bathing your dog. You WILL BE WET. No way to avoid it, even in a 2 foot deep sunken bathtub. Personal experience talking here.</p><p>Prepare yourself for the fact that the toy you thought was SO COOL in the store, will be sniffed and promptly ignored until the end of time. Your dog will only like the toys that will drive you the most crazy. One of the favorites in our house (NOT purchased by us) is a big skunk with a plastic bottle inside. Inside said plastic bottle is a marble. Aaaaaargh. 'Nuff said.</p><p>That gorgeous dog bed you bought? You know, the one that cost almost as much as the new king size bed you got to accommodate the new dog? Yeah, the dog will rarely, if ever use it. Preferred dog beds in this house? Couches, blankets dragged to the floor, pile of clothes, carpets ? and of course, our bed, preferably leaving as little room as possible for the humans by stretching as wide as possible.</p><p>Training? What's that? Mine occasionally come when called, and usually sit when told, but that's about it. I've given up. Did you know that a dog can be flunked out of training school? Neither did I until it happened? to ME!</p><p>Fill in the blank: my favorite ______ will be chewed to death. Expect it. Embrace it. You will live it.</p><p>I think the biggest tip I can give to a new dog owner is to become a firm believer in Murphy's Law: whatever can happen usually will and at the worst possible time. Of course, if you'd like to avoid my jaded outlook on life with a dog, visit our website, <a target="_new" href="http://www.a1-dog-info.com/tips-to-take-care-of-a-new-dog.htm">http://www.a1-dog-info.com/tips-to-take-care-of-a-new-dog.htm</a> for more tips to help you survive living with a dog.</p><p>Tara Pearce is the author and webmaster of A1-Dog-Info.com. Please visit us for all kinds of information about dog food, toys, health, books, supplies and clothes.</p><p><a target="_new" href="http://www.a1-dog-info.com">http://www.a1-dog-info.com</a><br> <a href="mailto:webmaster@a1-dog-info.com">webmaster@a1-dog-info.com</a>

5 Surefire Ways to Show Your Dog You?re The Boss

You Must Be The Alpha Dog</p><p>First, let's take a look at what a &quot;pack mentality&quot; means. Dogs are born into packs ? in the wild, packs are the essential social order. Unlike humans, who use a variety of political processes to determine leadership and rank, dogs sort out their social order by dominance and power. In a wolf pack, there is a Top Dog ? a clear leader who is the dominant, Alpha male. He's the Big Dog, with pride of place at the dinner table (well, if wolves had a dinner table!), first in mating, first in decision making for the pack.</p><p>Whether you realize it or not, your dog views your household as his own personal wolf pack. The pack mentality is so engrained in your dog's psyche that he will either view you as a leader - or a follower - depending on your actions. If you are to have a well-trained dog, you must establish that you are the leader, and he is the follower. Your dog has to know in his heart that you are the Alpha Dog, the Head Honcho, the Big Dog, the Top Dog ? call it whatever you want, but your dog needs to know you're in charge.</p><p>Dogs are a little like children in one respect ? they're looking for someone else to be the leader ? they want rules and regulations because that makes their role in the pack more clear-cut and understandable. It's scary being the leader ? if you're not up to it, your dog may assume the role ? because someone has to be in charge!</p><p>If that's what's happened at your house, you need to re-establish your position as the Top Dog, or &quot;Leader of the Pack.&quot; But here's an important note: being the leader of the pack has absolutely nothing to do with harsh punishment. It has everything to do with consistency and setting limits.</p><p>A simple rule to remember (and one people have great difficulty keeping in mind) is that you are the leader, not your dog.</p><p>1. You Go Through The Door First Even something as straightforward as who walks through the door first can reinforce your position as &quot;dominant dog.&quot; Leaders lead. Followers follow. If you allow your dog to charge through the door ahead of you, he perceives that as asserting his dominance over you. Put your dog on the leash, and make sure you're the first one through the door.</p><p>2. You Eat Before Your Dog Who gets fed first in your house ? you or your dog? In a wolf pack, the leader eats first, and when he is done, the rest of the pack can dine. Do you feed your dog first because he pesters you when you're cooking your dinner, and it's simply more convenient to have him quiet and out of the way when you're eating?</p><p>Food is a powerful motivator that can be used to clearly demonstrate who is the ruler of the roost at your house. In no way, shape or form am I suggesting that you withhold food from your dog ? that's cruel and unusual punishment any way you look at it. What I am suggesting is that you control the timing of the food ? you should eat first, your dog second, after you're done with your meal.</p><p>3. Don't Walk Around Your Dog</p><p>Does your dog lie on the floor and expect you to walk around him? In the wild, dominant dogs lie wherever they want, and dogs lower in the social order go around so they don't disturb the Big Dog. If you walk around your dog, he will assume this to be an act of submission on your part; therefore he must be the leader, not you.</p><p>If your dog is lying in the middle of the hallway, or right in front of your easy chair, make him move. If he's on the couch and you want to lie down, make him move. Don't step over him. Just gently nudge him and make him get out of your way. You're the Big Dog, remember?</p><p>4. You Determine When Your Dog Gets Attention</p><p>Even asking for attention or affection can be seen as an act of dominance from your dog's point of view. Dogs that demand attention are asserting dominance, so if your dog gets pushy, ignore him. When you're ready to give him attention or affection or pet or play with him, ask him to sit first. Don't run after him just so you can pet him. Make him come to you when you're ready to give him attention, or play with him. And when you play with a toy, make sure that you end up with possession of the toy, and then put the toy away when you're done. (Note: I'm not talking about his favorite toys that you leave in his crate. I'm talking about play toys that the two of you use for games.)</p><p>5. Don't Let Your Dog Sleep In Your Bed</p><p>This is a tough one for a lot of people, but when you let your dog share your bed, at best you're making him an equal to you. He should have his own bed, either a dog pad or his crate that he feels comfortable in ? you can even put the dog pad next to your bed if that makes both of you happier ? but don't let him take over the sleeping arrangements. Before you know it, he'll be trying to make you sleep on the floor!</p><p>Again, reinforcing or retraining your dog to recognize you as the Head Honcho has absolutely nothing to do with harsh discipline. These are changes you can make that will change the way your dog thinks about you. And making even small changes like these can have an enormous impact on the way your dog views the social hierarchy in your home ? all without a harsh word being spoken!</p><p>Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!" To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit: <a target="_new" href="http://tinyurl.com/6u2cj">http://tinyurl.com/6u2cj</a>

Canine Parvovirus

Canine Parvovirus, is a viral disease that attacks dogs and if left untreated, it kills them within day's, usually due to dehydration and it's side effects.</p><p>Parvo is caused by a virus present in the faeces of infected dogs. Other dogs and pups pick up the parvo virus through eating food off the ground, chewing bones on the dirt, licking each other... there is so much parvo virus in the environment that older dogs have become somewhat immune to it, however puppies are very susceptible, especially from around weaning age at 5 to 8 weeks.</p><p>Parvo symptoms include severe depression and a loss of appetite, followed by a high fever, vomiting, diarrhoea and dehydration</p><p>The infected dog will pass bloody stools within 24 hours. Puppies infected with parvo usually die within 48 hours if left untreated.</p><p>The virus initially lodges and multiplys in the lymph nodes of the throat and in 3 or 4 days it spreads to the bone marrow and the gastro-intestinal tract. All three sites contain the rapidly multiplying cells that the virus needs. In the bone marrow it kills the young immune system cells, and as such a low white cell count is the first clinical sign of possible parvo virus infection. Having a low white cell count also means that the host dog cannot fight the infection.</p><p>While this is happening the parvo virus is attacking the gastro intestinal tract, killing new cells of the intestine walls before they have a chance to grow. This results in an inability to absorb nutrients, causing acute diarrhoea. The intestinal wall becomes so damaged that bleeding occurs, allowing bacterial infections to take hold.</p><p>Therefore puppies can die from either severe dehydration and shock, bacterial infection... or more commonly,both.</p><p>You can't treat parvo with antibiotics, however, they are routinely given to prevent secondary bacterial infections setting in, while the dog's immune system is actively fighting the virus.</p><p>The best treatment for parvo is prevention. And the best form of prevention is Vaccinating, which should be mandatory for all puppies before they are 3 months old. Follow up every 12 months with a booster shot.</p><p>You should vaccinate pregnant broody's with a killed parvovirus vaccine, either before mating, or 2 weeks before her puppies are born. This will pass on protection to the puppies until they are about 6 weeks old, or until they stop suckling. The danger period for puppies is between weaning at 5 to 8 weeks old, and 3 months of age, when they should get their full shots.</p><p>On dog farms and in breeding barns, it's advisable to give puppies a 4 in 1 shot that includes parvovirus and corona virus vaccines at about 7 weeks, followed by their full 5 in 1 shot which includes Leptovirus vaccine at 3 months of age.</p><p>The only way to kill parvo in the environment is with either Bleach diluted 30 to 1 with water, or some other proprietary brand containing bleach. If the infected area is left dormant, the parvo will die in the ground in around 7 months, but you would be well advised to leave them vacant for 1 to 2 years. Freezing protects parvovirus cells, so if the ground is snowbound in winter, it may be at least 2 years before it is safe to allow puppies on it again.</p><p>Russell Savige has been breeding and rearing greyhounds since 1986. His website <a target="_new" href="http://www.training-dog-breeds.com">http://www.training-dog-breeds.com</a> has an extensive collection of dog related articles.

วันอาทิตย์ที่ 28 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551

How To Keep Your Cat Healthy - Your Guide to Cat Diseases and Conditions, and How to Cure Them

Even with the best care, cats can become ill. Sometimes this means a simple "kitty cold," at other times the disease might have a more lasting or even fatal result. The following are some of the more common causes of serious illness in cats.</p><p>An upper respiratory infection (URI) is the medical term for what many cat lovers call a "kitty cold." Indeed, the symptoms match those of a human cold, sneezing and discharge from the nose. While they seem similar, the human and cat version of this infection are different, and one species cannot be infected by the other. However, URI is highly contagious among cats. If you have a multi-cat household and notice URI symptoms, isolate the cat immediately.</p><p>The best treatment for URI is time and loving care. Use a warm, moist cloth to keep your cat's eyes and nose free of discharge. You might need to warm her food to enhance the smell to encourage your cat to eat.</p><p>URI symptoms, which include a decreased appetite, can last anywhere from a few days to several weeks. Watch your cat carefully; not eating or drinking can lead to dehydration. Also, if your cat becomes extremely lethargic, it may mean the URI has turned into something more serious.</p><p>The symptoms of URI may last a few days to several weeks. Cats with URI may also be lethargic and have a decreased appetite. Monitor the cat carefully; a growing lack of appetite and fever can lead to dehydration. Not eating can lead to liver problems. Lethargy can mean a minor URI has become a more serious problem, such as pneumonia. If you notice this occurring, or if the discharge becomes very thick and yellowish-green, contact your veterinarian. Severe URIs may need to be treated with antibiotics.</p><p>Chlamydia is a type of bacteria that has many variations. Usually, each variant is species specific; feline Chlamydia is not transmitted to humans. In cats, the bacteria usually infects the eye, causing conjunctivitis. Chlamydia can be treated with antibiotics.</p><p>Symptoms of Feline Chlamydia</p><p>* Anorexia (loss of appetite; may occur as the disease progresses)</p><p>* Coughing</p><p>* Difficulty breathing</p><p>* Fever (may occur as the disease progresses)</p><p>* Pneumonia (in young kittens 2 to 4 weeks old, which could be fatal)</p><p>* Runny nose (rhinitis)</p><p>* Sneezing</p><p>* Watery eyes due to conjunctivitis (either one or both eyes)</p><p>Panleukopenia is a condition in which a cat's white blood cell count drops dramatically. Since white blood cells are vital to the cat's defense against disease, this condition leaves cats vulnerable to deadly infections. The virus is transmitted via body secretions. Feces are particularly common transmitters. It can be carried in water or on shoes.</p><p>Panleukopenia is often referred to as a number of different terms, such as</p><p>* Panleukopenia (often shortened to "Panleuk" in verbal discussion)</p><p>* FPV (Feline Panleukopenia Virus OR Feline Parvo Virus)</p><p>* FP (Feline Panleukopenia)</p><p>* Feline Distemper</p><p>* Feline Infectious Enteritis</p><p>* Feline Infectious Gastroenteritis</p><p>* Feline Agranulocytosis</p><p>* Cat Plague</p><p>* Cat fever</p><p>* Show fever</p><p>* Psuedomembranous Enteritis</p><p>* Maladie du jeune chat</p><p>* Feline Typhus</p><p>* Feline Tyfoid</p><p>* Colibacillosis</p><p>* Agranulocytosis</p><p>Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) causes a variety of diseases, one of which is leukemia, or cancer of the white blood cells. Infected cats often appear healthy in the early stages of the disease. The illness may take months or years to cause death. For a long time, FeLV was the most fatal disease among cats. Today, although vaccinations are available to protect cats from this disease, it continues to be a leading cause of death, as there is no treatment.</p><p>FeLV is usually transmitted through cat fighting with each other. Because large quantities of the FeLV are shed in puncture wounds and cat saliva associated with fighting result in the injection of PeLV into other cats. Other less frequent routes of viral spread include sharing food and water bowls, cats grooming each other, and transmission from mother to kittens before birth.</p><p><a target="_new" href="http://www.pet-medication-supplies.net">Pet Medication Supplies</a> (<a target="_new" href="http://www.pet-medication-supplies.net">http://www.pet-medication-supplies.net</a>) can help you get the best possible pet health supplies. Advantix, Arthramine, Cosequin, Frontline, Heartgard - find the best deals in pet medication for flea and tick control, arthritis and lyme disease. Upto 50% discount everyday on brand names.

A Cat Tale

My son and I have a cat. Her name is Princess, aka Sugar Bear or Bear. She is part Himalayan and part Siamese. I was just thinking, I rarely, if at all have ever mentioned her and I really don't know why. She is a huge part of our family and has been a great emotional support for me and Dakota. Which brings me to my next subject, emotional support animals. I have noticed that a lot of people are now obtaining animals for &quot;emotional support&quot; , but honestly they have always been for that purpose right, only now the law labels them as this and in most cases if you have a doctor that is willing to say you need support, your pet maybe the one to give you just that. I have had anxiety in the past and I know from experience that my pet, Bear, gives me great support and I have to give all my pets that respect . I know all pets past, present and future give me a great deal of love and affection and are devoted in ways no human would ever begin to understand.</p><p>My son has his Mini Schnauzer from when me and his dad were married and he is always with that dog, his name is Squirt. I don't think I could ever go for long without some type of pet and companion. When I was married we had the two Minis, Natasha and Squirt, we split them up after we divorced so Dakota would have a dog at each house, because he was so attached. I even have visitation rights, well David allows me to see him when I want and sometimes he brings him to my house, Squirt that is. Bear doesn't like that to well but she accepts it anyways. This cat is quite a character, every cat I have ever owned has never been the typical, independent cat. My cats always followed me everywhere, and would even take walks with me and Dakota. I kid you not, they would even walk a mile with us if we went that far. I don't know many cats willing to follow you to the front door let alone a mile, sometimes I feel like I am in that Homeward Bound movie, with the two dogs and the cat.</p><p>Dakota and bear have a great time. I swear it is like having two kids. If she isn't bothering him then he is bothering her. He can be laying on the couch and she will sneak over and get down by his head and swat him in the back of the head ,and she will be lying on the back of the couch and he will just have to grab her by the tummy or something to get her started, they play hide and seek together and I play that too. It is actually fun. Hide behind a corner and call her and she sneaks up the hall and jumps up it is sweet. I don't even always call her by name, sometimes I just say brrr like a purr and she comes running or will start meowing at me. I love her to death and Dakota loves her more than anything and is very protective of her. Even his friends have nicknamed her and play with her, but she is loyal to us. She will even growl when someone knocks on the door and I have never, ever heard of that.</p><p>When I get mad at her she reacts violently too. One day she hit me in the eye with her scratching post and I know this is mean but I said, 'freaking cat', and she ran over and swatted me on the head, I guess telling me to not yell at her, it was really funny. I had to write this, she gives me so much support and love and is devoted more so than any other cat I have known, and I am so glad we got her. She definitely is a part of this family and she is right now, sitting here under my chair as I write, maybe waiting on Bub to get home, probably waiting for me to give her a treat, either way we love her and are so glad she is family.</p><p>Vaughn Pascal</p><p>To Bub: I love you.</p><p>To Bear: We Love you too, and thanks for being so purrfect

Buyer Beware: Purebred Dog Myths

Every month I am approached by dog owners of my breed who complain about how poorly behaved, how sickly, how untrainable, and generally my breed is and how deeply they resented spending money on this breed. I listen patiently, but time taught me not to defend 'good' breeders, or explain to the angry owners how their own ignorance cuased them to become victimized.</p><p>There are many myths that abound in the dog world. Unfortunately, each allows unscrupulous breeders to take advantage of eager, prospective, puppy buyers.</p><p>Here are some of the most common myths:</p><p>Registered dogs are good quality. Even puppy mills register their puppies and get the papers.</p><p>If the parents have papers, the puppy is a good one. Wrong. Actually, if the parent's papers do not have a blue boarder, then the puppy's parent is registered as &quot;Not good enough for breeding." In many cases, these breeders show the parent's papers to prospective buyers, but explain that the litter is not registered in an attempt to save money. This is a lie. They didn't register the litter because the puppies are not purebred, and unregisterable. It takes less than $25.00 to register a puppy.</p><p>"You don't need to take breeding stock to 'dog shows,' because it is all political." Sorry, but I hate hearing this one from hobby breeders. I have been in the dog world for more than 20 years and have shown more than 4 breeds. Yes, when it comes to the BIG shows, or the Best In Show wins, there are politics involved. But, when it comes to getting the LOWEST award a dog can get (which is becoming a champion) there is little to prevent any breeder from showing and winning ? unless they know their dogs are not good quality. All the title of champion means is that more than one judge considers the dog is good enough for breeding.</p><p>Poor quality parents = poor quality puppies. Many people believe they only need two purebred parents to produce good quality puppies. This is not true. Many hereditary diseases, like joint problems, are avoided by good breeders who understand bloodlines and structure. If the breeder thinks they can breed different body types together, and get consistently healthy puppies, they shouldn't be breeding.</p><p>If both parents are champions, the puppies are good. Again, buyer beware. It is relatively easy to make a good dog a champion. Hobby and unscrupulous breeders know this, so they finish one or two dogs (not most of them), and then con new buyers into believing that 'championship' is the pinnacle of a dog's career, instead of the lowest award it can achieve.</p><p>So, how can you protect yourself? Here are some helpful hints that will help you avoid ending up with a puppy you cannot live with.</p><p>Visit at least 10 breeders, before looking at a puppy.</p><p>Never let a breeder put a puppy in your hands, or tell you it will be gone tomorrow if you don't buy it now. In fact, most good breeders will not let you have the puppy after a first visit. Most good puppy owners do not take money on the first visit.</p><p>Never take your children when looking at puppies.</p><p>Contact the national breed association and ask questions.</p><p>Make sure the breeder does not consistently use males and females from their own kennel. The males most good kennels use come from top winning stock.</p><p>A health guarantee is only valuable if you, the puppy buyer, is willing to go to court. In many cases, they are not worth the paper they are written on. Instead, ask for the names of 5 ? 10 people who ownes one of these dog's puppies for more than a year.</p><p>Ask the breeder for vet records showing when the breeder had the parents checked for hereditary defects.</p><p>Don't buy from breeders who always have puppies. Also, when it comes to kennels, bigger is not better. Large operations, even 'show' ones, are businesses. They are more concerned with income than the relationship between you and your new puppy.</p><p>Don't buy a cheap puppy. Find the average price of a puppy, and look for puppies in that price range. It is expensive, 'properly' raising a litter of puppies. And, it is easy for a good breeder to sell puppies. So, if a breeder is selling bargain puppies, then something is wrong.</p><p>Beware of breeders who breed their female pet. Rarely do they possess the knowledge needed to breed a good litter. More important, I have known about entire networks of people selling puppies, believing they are helping a breeder. Instead, these people are selling puppies for a puppy mill. No one will go to a stinky farm and select their puppy from dozen's of litters. No one is that na?ve anymore. So, puppy mills have become very savvy, even buying 'show ribbons', to make themselves appear more legit.</p><p>If you can avoid these mistakes, you will reduce the risk of buying a poor quality puppy.</p><p>There are some facts I can give you. All the reputable, concerned breeders I have met have three things in common.</p><p>1. They love to talk about their breed.</p><p>2. They are not in any hurry to sell a puppy.</p><p>3. They only breed 1 ? 5 litters a year.</p><p>Suzanne James is instructor of the online course &quot;Pick the right dog for you&quot; at <a target="_new" href="http://www.universalclass.com">http://www.universalclass.com.</a> She ran a dog training school, and has shown and bred 4 breeds of dogs. Currently she breeds Chinese Crested dogs under the name Orchid Kennels <a target="_new" href="http://www.inspiredauthor.com/ChineseCresteds">http://www.inspiredauthor.com/ChineseCresteds</a>

Adopt A Pet

In order to add love and affection to their lives, many people look into where they can adopt a pet. A number of neglected and deserted animals end up in shelters that house them until someone is looking to adopt a pet or the shelter can no longer care for them. Adopting a pet of any kind from a shelter or animal rescue service is a great way to get a pet with medical treatment as well as the spaying or neutering of the animal. When you adopt a pet from a shelter or rescue that provides these kinds of services, you often save money on the care that the pet received while in the shelter or rescue's care than you would have if you had taken the animal to the vet on your own.</p><p>When you adopt a pet from an animal shelter or rescue, you aren't limited to just cats and dogs. Not everyone looking to adopt a pet has the room or desire to commit to caring for and raising a cat or a dog. A number of smaller pets that require minimal care and are just as rewarding as other animals for the right person are often available for adoption at animal shelters or rescues. If a person is interested in adding an animal to his or her family, they might want to adopt a pet that is often considered to be a traditional pet.</p><p>Along with domestic dogs and cats, many animal shelters have guinea pigs, bunny rabbits, gerbils, rats, hamsters and a number of other rodents that can offer a pet owner the kind of love and caring that they are looking for when they adopt a pet. Other options for someone who would like to adopt a pet can include a variety of birds and even ferrets.</p><p>When looking to adopt a pet, a benefit from adopting from a shelter would be that the animals have been socialized and a personality is often observed by the staff in order to help in the proper placement of each pet. Some shelters even microchip ID their animals so that if someone were to adopt a pet and the pet should end up back in a shelter, the animal can be identified.</p><p>About The Author: Kevin Lynch is the owner of <A target="_new" href="http://www.nu-pets.com">nu Pets</a> website, which has tons of resources with a variety of information, news and more.

Got Fleas? How to Spot and Care For Fleas on Your Dog

Your poor pooch is scratching himself all over. Plus, you know he's uncomfortable because he's whimpering and gnawing too. Chances are, he's got fleas. These little sixlegged parasites will wreak havoc and mayhem for you and your pet if you don't learn how to take care of the problem now.</p><p>Most fleas are known in the medical world as Ctenocephalides Felis, which is a species of cat flea that has really enjoys dog meat. It's ironic, but true. These little buggers have four stages to their life-egg-larva-pupa-adult-and it's your job to kill them all off or you're going to have big problems with these tiny insects.</p><p>Fleas thrive in warm, humid and low altitude areas. Female fleas are the one's that need your puppy or dog's blood in order to lay her eggs, and their most likely the ones that are aggravating your pooch the most. However, male fleas also do their fair share of bloodletting on your doggie's skin. If you live in a warmer climate (southern US states or Hawaii), you should treat your dog for fleas year-round.</p><p>There are many ways to check to see if you puppy or dog has fleas. As mentioned above, they may scratch, bite or whimper, but many dogs won't react at all. It simply depends upon their skin type and if they have an allergic reaction to the flea's salvia residue, and not the actual bite. If your dog is allergic to fleas and/or their bites, you'll know it.</p><p>It's called Flea Allergy Dermatitis (FAD), and the dog may develop a rash or even lose hair. Fleas also spread tapeworms and have been known in extreme, but not rare, cases to cause your dog (or especially puppies) anemia. To check for fleas yourself, simply brush up your puppy or dog's coat and look for the insects hopping around. If you can't see them for yourself, try using a magnifying glass under good light. Keep in mind that fleas don't necessarily live on your dog. So, you may have to check for small flea feces or eggs, which are brown and/or red.</p><p>If you notice fleas, there are some things that you must do. You may want to talk or visit with your vet before starting your own flea-battling regimen. First, let's take care of the puppy or dog. Use gentle flea and tick shampoo. Wash and soak thoroughly. The shampoo will rid your dog's skin of any eggs, larvae or flea feces. When dry, you may want to use some flea powder on your dog. But first, test a spot to make sure that it doesn't burn or irritate your dog's skin. Second, wash the puppy or dog's sleeping area (which you should do once a week anyway). Use a pyrethrin-based product or an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR) or Insect Developmental Inhibitor (IDI) on his sleeping area. Try using a monthly dosage product proven to help battle against fleas. If your dog still has discomfort, use a dermatological mist and/or try an antihistamine tablet. Keep your dog from running all over the house. He should remain somewhat quarantined as to not roll around on or become infected with any more fleas.</p><p>Finally, it's time to take care of the environment that the fleas thrive in, your home. First, experts say that vacuuming the infected area will help substantially. Be sure to empty and change the vacuum bag each time. Then, you can use an IGR or IDI product throughout your home. Better yet, use a canned fogger in your home and spray in all the hard-toreach areas. Then, vacuum thoroughly again. You can also treat the grass in your yard against fleas. It's a full-fledged battle against an almost invisible enemy. You can win it, and you must for you and your dog's sanity.</p><p>About the Author:<br> Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-gifts-and-toys-for-dog-lovers.com">Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers</a>. <br><br>Copyright 2005. All rights reserved.

The Secret That Keeps Horses Trainable!

As you likely know already, horses have at least 10 times our strength. If they also had our intelligence, they would probably be riding us humans. Fortunately, horses cannot reason like human beings and therefore will never have superior intelligence.</p><p>Since they don't have reasoning abilities, horse training becomes a challenge because you now have to understand how their intelligence works. You have to know what works and why to really be effective.</p><p>The biggest secret that makes it so we can train a horse is the fear of pain and/or punishment that our creator instilled in their mind. We can use that built-in fear to our advantage and teach the horse what we want him to do.</p><p>The trick is to not push the horse too far with his built-in fear. We must never abuse this knowledge because it will backfire. Once it backfires then we will have problems with the horse we're training.</p><p>How does it backfire? Let's take a novice horse owner who fulfills his dream to have horses and train them. Unless he's studied a horse's nature he will probably get into big trouble with his horse because of the delicate balance of the horse's built-in fear.</p><p>For instance, the very first lesson you must teach your horse is to have confidence in you. If your horse doesn't have confidence in you, he will neither trust you. Both are enormously important to horse training.</p><p>Think of confidence in this way. If you're a child who's just seen a scary movie on TV you probably want to sleep with Mom and Dad for the night. They'll protect you. You'll be safe with them. Hopefully, you know these things to be true because you have experienced it with your own parents.</p><p>But if you didn't feel like they'd keep you safe you wouldn't have confidence in them, would you?</p><p>A horse's thinking is similar to that. He must have confidence in you when you're working with him.</p><p>A horse can be taught confidence in different ways. I prefer to the Jesse Beery confidence lesson.</p><p>Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800's, uses his confidence lesson as the beginning place of training his horses. He said, "This is the most important lesson of all." To learn more about Jesse Beery go to:</p><p><a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm" target="_new">http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm</a></p><p>Interestingly, it's also the easiest.</p><p>How nice it is that the most important lesson is the easiest to do.</p><p>Essentially, the confidence lesson takes advantage of (but never abused) the horse's built-in fear. In a way, the fear is harnessed and carefully used to get the horse's confidence in you. It's akin to getting a child to watch a scary movie and being there to protect him or her when they get scared.</p><p>When the horse experiences the fear, you're there to save the day. You make it so he depends on you to be his superhero.</p><p>When the horse gets fearful, you have to be there to tell him everything is okay. You do that through petting him. Talking to him in a soothing manner. Using a pleasant tone of voice.</p><p>I have a friend, Gene, who loves his horses but when they don't do certain things he think they should do, he punishes them. (By punishing, I don't mean he hits or whips. A horse can feel punished just by a threatening tone of voice for example)</p><p>Anyway, I rode with a group of people one day and Gene was in our group. We came upon running water. You could call it a small river or a big creek. It was about 30 feet wide and varied in depth from a foot to three feet.</p><p>Every horse crossed the water but Gene's. Gene got so upset that his horse wouldn't cross that he began booting his horse in the ribs. That poor horse wanted to comply with Gene's request but the running water scared him. The horse was spooking.</p><p>The horse paced back and forth, occasionally sniffing the water but never crossed it. The whole time Gene's legs were wildly kicking the horse trying to get him to cross - yet the horse remained spooky.</p><p>What Gene didn't realize is the horse was fearful and needed his help. Anytime a horse is fearful of a place or a thing he should be reassured with pleasant, soothing voice sounds and/or petting him.</p><p>If you do what Gene did, you just gave your horse another thing to fear. Not only does that horse fear crossing running water, now he fears he's going to be punished for it. And it's likely that anytime the horse comes upon running water both fears will crop up and Gene will have a horse that would like to comply but his instincts are so powerful that he probably won't (unless Gene figures out what to do)</p><p>Think of it from the horse's point of view.</p><p>You're a horse that cannot reason and you're instincts are self-preservation. What keeps your self-preservation in check is the built-in fear. Fear makes you run from danger. Fear is what keeps you alive. If you don't understand something you fear it even more.</p><p>Now knowing all that, imagine you're the horse and you're standing at the edge of the river. You won't cross it because you think there's danger in it somehow. On top of that, someone is on your back, pissed off and kicking you in the ribs because you won't go forward.</p><p>Not only are you scared of the water, but now you're getting kicked in the ribs and feeling punished. You want to be obedient and go forward but your instinct is too powerful and tells you not to.</p><p>It would be like telling a scared child who just saw a scary movie that he had to sleep in his own damn room.</p><p>But what if Gene had understood his horse was scared? What if he helped his horse deal with his fear.</p><p>How would he do this?</p><p>When Gene and his horse approached the water he could have spoke to his horse in a pleasant, soothing manner. When the horse was getting scared Gene should have recognized it as fear and not as disobedience.</p><p>He could have petted his horse to reassure him all is okay. He could have talked to his horse in a pleasant manner. He could have let his horse sniff the water and check it out on his own.</p><p>Instead, the horse was now confused, scared, feeling punished, less trusting of his rider, and who knows what else.</p><p>But if Gene would've recognized the fear in his horse then he could have helped his horse overcome it. Gene lost the awesome opportunity to gain a significant amount of the horse's confidence and friendship in that river scene. Too bad too. That's a beautiful paint horse.</p><p>About The Author</p><p>Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com</a>. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm</a>.

วันเสาร์ที่ 27 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551

Top 10 benefits of Natural and Holistic Pet Care

There are a number of reasons for choosing natural pet foods, treats and supplies. First, use of natural products is consistent with a holistic view. A holistic approach considers all factors regarding your pet's health, not just individual symptoms. The top 10 benefits of choosing natural and holistic pet care are listed below.</p><p>Top 10 benefits of Natural and Holistic Pet Care</p><p>1) Better nutrition- a natural diet reduces contact with unnecessary chemicals and preservatives while increasing the intake of quality nutrients and vitamins.</p><p>2) Less probability of developing disease- Quality natural foods can reduce the onset of a variety of health problems, including allergies, digestive disorders and more.</p><p>3) Treats source of disease not just symptoms- Holistic care also looks at an animal's surroundings for ways to improve health. Lowering potential causes of stress, such as loneliness or territorial conflicts, can be helpful in improving overall health. Sufficient exercise and grooming are also elements of good holistic care.</p><p>4) Longer lifespan- natural pet care will help pets live a long life and give you many years of faithful companionship.</p><p>5) Enhanced quality of life- there's no use on living longer if the quality of life is not good, holistic pet care, will provide a better quality of life for your pet.</p><p>6) Faster healing- Holistic treatment of existing conditions by use of natural products will promote faster healing as natural ingredients are generally absorbed better by your pet and thus speeds the healing process.</p><p>7) Human safety- another reason for using natural pet products is the reduction in human exposure to toxins. Most pets are in frequent contact with people, especially children. Contact with a pet can mean risk of exposure to whatever is on your pet, whereas natural treatments avoid these risks.</p><p>8) Protects the environment- also, natural products breakdown and are absorbed into the environment better than chemical agents and, consequently, are more earth friendly.</p><p>9) Saves time- you won't be wasting your time dragging your pets to the vet's office to treat different illnesses as the holistic approach targets the individual as a whole entity, treating existing conditions from their source, not just their symptoms, and preventing new ones from developing.</p><p>10) Saves money- you won't be wasting your money on cheaper products that ultimately can be a contributor to declining health in your pets and thereby creating more vet visit and bills.</p><p>Mariangie Gonzalez has a major in Animal Science and Pre-Veterinary and runs the day-to-day operations of her home-based business and website in which you can learn how homeopathic remedies could prolong and improve your pet's life. She can also help you start your own home-based 100% natural pet supplies business, you can visit online at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.MindBodyAndPaw.com">http://www.MindBodyAndPaw.com</a>

5 Tips For Feeding A Happy, Healthy Dog

Do you really know all there is to know about your canine companion's nutritional needs? Many pet owners think they're doing what's best for their dogs when it comes to food, but in reality they rely on pure instinct more than science. Nutrition isn't a guessing game, even when it comes to your pooch. Think about it ? if you were left to feed yourself based only on what you craved and had no knowledge of what your body needs to function, would you be eating 5 servings of fruit and veggies or would you head straight for the Ding Dong case at the market?</p><p>1. Cover all of the bases.</p><p>A dog's diet can be as complex as any human's (including yours!), and it's absolutely essential that you, as an owner, hit all of the vital nutritional bases. A deficiency of certain vitamins and nutrients can lead to upset tummies, overly dry or oily skin, brittle bones, weight issues, and, in some of the worst cases, death. A balanced and proper diet is the building block of your dog's overall health ? if he doesn't get the right blend of nutrients, the most impeccable care otherwise won't mean a thing. But with the right diet, his defenses against disease and disorders are infinitely stronger than a dog whose owner hasn't put much thought into an eating plan.</p><p>2. Mix it up!</p><p>For the most part, pre-packaged food will help you cover all of the major nutritional requirements a healthy, fairly young dog has. This where many owners trip up simply because of the ease of the decision. Most think that the major choice is between dry and moist food, when in reality the best diet you can provide your dog is one varied in ingredients, textures, and nutritional value. Dogs, of course, are carnivores, and that instinct remains in their blood to this day. They continue to hunt prey (poor Kitty), love sausage-flavored treats, and adore the great crunch they get when chowing down on a bone. Those varied elements should give you a little bit of insight into how diverse your dog's diet can be.</p><p>3. Move beyond meat.</p><p>Building some portion of his diet from meat gives you many of the crucial nutrients he needs for energy and growth, but he also needs fiber and carbohydrates to aid in digestion and stability. You could throw down a bowl of dry food every day and maybe give him a &quot;treat&quot; of moist food once a month, but how would you like it if the tables were turned and he insisted on feeding you pancakes every day for the rest of your life? Not such a sunny outlook, is it?</p><p>4. Make it a real meal.</p><p>Listen, nobody ever said you had to rely on a bag or can of food to feed your dog. You cook for your family all the time. Doesn't your dog deserve similar treatment? Most owners say they'd love to cook for their pups but just don't know where to start, and that's where I come in. Now you can help fulfill all of your dog's nutritional needs as well as his taste desires with just one quick flip through my new book, 180 Delicious Gourmet Dog Recipes. I know, I know, you're busy, and there's barely time to cook your family a proper meal. That's why you'll love this book ? in addition to covering all of the usual recipes like traditional dog chow and cookies, I've created several that are healthy and delicious enough for you, your dog, and your family. Being skeptical is natural; after all, I never dreamed I'd come up with recipes I could easily share with my dogs! But how can you pass up recipes like biscotti, muffins, omelettes, dinner mints, and even sushi?</p><p>5. Give him some green.</p><p>Your dog needs a well-balanced diet, and the best way to accomplish that is through a wide variety of ingredients. Did you know that many dogs love veggies? In fact, if your dog likes to nibble on grass, he may appreciate some of the veggie-oriented recipes in the cookbook. Give it a shot and see what you ? and your dog ? think. After all, the worst that could happen is an improvement in your pooch's health!</p><p>The only set rule in feeding your pup is to make sure his meals satisfy the unique nutritional requirements any dog has. You don't have to stick to the bag or the can, and you don't have to spend hours slaving away in the kitchen. Making dishes for your dog can be a family event, and nothing expresses gratitude better than a big, sloppy, wet kiss. "180 Delicious Gourmet Dog Food Recipes" features a huge array of delectable treats made to please any pup... but you'll be amazed at how many you can eat, too! It's a great starting point for any well-rounded nutritional plan for your dog. You'll both be happy you made the investment!</p><p>Mark Eckenrode is a lover of dogs, his own is named Ryker. Mark is also the creator of an amazing website that offers free step-by-step tips on how to spoil your dog, cook up delicious dog recipes, insights into health, and communicating with your dog?</p><p>&quot;Finally! A Quick and Easy Way For YOU to Learn Exactly What Your Dog is Looking For? Without Being a Vet, Visiting an Animal Shrink, or Paying Outrageous Prices for Dog Toys!&quot;</p><p><a target="_new" href="http://www.DogMatters.com">http://www.DogMatters.com</a>

Canine Distemper

What is Canine Distemper?</p><p>Canine distemper is a highly contagios disease caused by a virus (paramyxovirus) which attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervus systems of dogs. Although dogs are the most commonly affected, Canine Distemper is also seen in foxes, ferrets, mink and many other carnivores. These infected animals are often the cause of the spread of this disease to domesticated dogs.</p><p>At normal temperature the virus can remain active in infected tissue for several weeks, provided the infected source does not dry out, or become exposed to ultraviolet radiation (sun light). At below zero, the virus can remain active for several months. At temperatures of 32?C or greater, the Canine Distemper virus will be destroyed very quickly.</p><p>How can the Virus spread?</p><p>Canine Distemper is spread through bodily secretions (nasal fluid for example} The most common form of transmission is airborne. Dogs become infected by breathing in particles secreted by infected hosts. For several weeks after recovery, a dog will still carry the virus which can lead to further contamination if not properly quarantined.</p><p>What are the symptoms?</p><p>Upon contracting the virus, dogs often appear &quot;normal&quot; for several days. The initial symptoms of the disease are runny nose, water eyes and a sore throat. The dogs temperature will increase to approximately 103.5?F (39.7?C). Over the next couple of days the symptoms worsen with the tonsils becoming enlarged, and the dog developing diarrhea. After approximately four weeks of treatment the virus begins to affect the brain. The dog will start twitching which will gradually turn in to larger convulsions The convulsions normally become so frequent and violent, that euthanasia is often carried out at this stage.</p><p>Are all dogs at risk?</p><p>Yes. Puppies younger than 4 months of age, and dogs who have not received vaccination, are at the greatest risk of infection. However, all dogs are susceptible to the virus. Canine Distemper was at one time the leading cause of deaths in domesticated dogs. Due to understanding of the virus and the ability to treat secondary symptoms, Canine Distemper only become a concern in isolated outbreaks.</p><p>What is the treatment for Canine Distemper?</p><p>At this time, there is no cure for the actual virus which causes Canine Distemper.. Treatment mainly consists of controlling spread and severity of secondary ailments such as , vomiting, diarrhea and fluid discharge. In the later stages of canine distemper, the use of anti-consultant drugs may help to control twitches and spasms. Constant nursing care is needed to make the dog as comfortable as possible.</p><p>Is there anyway to prevent canine distemper?</p><p>Have your dog vaccinated!!! Pups should be vaccinated at 6 weeks of age, and re-vaccinated every 3-4 weeks until 16 months old. Adult dogs should be vaccinated every year. Like most disease, prevention is often the only viable solution. Be cautions of where you are taking your dog. Since the most common transmission of Canine Distemper is air born, dog parks, kennels, even grooming facilities can be ideal places for dogs to contract the virus. Raccoons, skunks, foxes, and other carnivores are often the catalysts for outbreak. For this reason ALWAYS be cautions of wild animals. Never let your dog have contact with an unknown animal.</p><p>Ths website only provides BASIC information about canine distemper, your veterinarian is always your best source of health information. Consult your veterinarian for more information about Canine Distemper and its prevention.</p><p>For more great articles and tons of other great info visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.dogsforums.com/">Dog forum</a>, visit Ron's blog or visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.petsblogs.com">Pet blog</a>

Cute Cat Names ... And How To Find Them

Cute cat names? Max is popular, Lady a favorite for queens. If you want your cat to have a more original name, you have to use your imagination. Or get some expert help.</p><p>'Muffin. Kitty. Snowball. All stupid names that no self respecting cat would have - if it weren't for the stupid human who gave it to him!'</p><p>These lines come from the hilarious, but now sold out Garfield Book of Cat Names by Jim Davis. The famous cartoon cat is a self declared enemy of silly names. In the book he gives advice on how to give your kitten a name to be proud of.</p><p>Popular tom cat names are Max, Sam, Charlie, Buddy, Toby, Rocky, Buster, Casey.</p><p>Popular cat names for females are Lady, Kitty, Chelsea, Molly, Maggie, Sadie, Abby, Dakota, Sasha.</p><p>There are also names that are just right for males and females, like Shadow or Smokey.</p><p>Although some people think cats ignore them when called, cats do listen - and very well. If you say its name often and clear it will soon recognize it. And if you consequently call your kitten's name, it will associate the sound with food, play and other pleasant activities.</p><p>If your kitten comes from a planned mating between pedigree animals, you need to register the name. There are strict rules for this. Professional cat breeders are happy to tell you more.</p><p>Still, finding the right and preferably cute name is not easy.</p><p>Your family members will want to agree with it, and of course it should not sound silly once your cute little kitten becomes an adult cat.</p><p>Colors often give inspiration, or the coat. During the Clinton administration almost every American knew Socks, the First Cat of the United States, and it's not difficult to understand why Clinton's cat got this name.</p><p>A cat's personality may also give a hint for a good name. This works best with older cats that you took from a shelter, because they usually have a clearly developed personality.</p><p>Celebrity names are also a good bet. There are cats that are called Elvis Presley or Marilyn (after Monroe). Best advice: choose a timeless celebrity. This week's Top-20 star may be forgotten tomorrow. But your cat certainly won't.</p><p>ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Marc de Jong is the owner of a popular web site on cats and the author of the acclaimed ebook How To Take Care Of Your Pregnant Cat. Buyers of the book get The Box Of Cat Names, a publication with over 15,000 cat names. Read more here: <a target="_new" href="http://www.pregnant-cat-care.com">http://www.pregnant-cat-care.com</a>

Alarm Clock Kitty, How to Stop Early Morning Meowing

Meow! Meow! Meow! I bury my head underneath my pillow. Meow! Meow! Meoooooow! The high pitched meowing persists and penetrates through my feather stuffed shield. Meow! Meow! Meow! My eyes open only with the greatest of efforts. Grudgingly, I drag myself out of my warm bed and look at the clock; 3:47 am. I reach over to the night-stand and turn on the light, pain is the result, the light, so bright, the light is, so, so bright. My wife rolls over on her side and I can see the annoyed look on her scrunched up little face. "Must.... feed.... demon... cat...." I say to myself as I trudge to the kitchen to empty a can of cat food into the little yellow cat dish. The cat has by this time woken up the entire household and I wouldn't be surprised if the neighbors were also awake.</p><p>Our cat is a loud cat. Unnervingly loud. 747 jet-engine loud. And there was a time that she woke up every morning before even the sun had the nerve to peek over the horizon. Our loveable little ball of fur wanted to be fed. While the rest of the household was fast asleep our sweet little kitty wanted to have some food to suck down her gullet. This caused quite a bit of frustration for us, especially since this was not a one time thing. No, this was indeed becoming her morning ritual. Every morning, our cat would sit in front of our door and meow at the top of her little kitty lungs the most blood curdling meows I had ever had the displeasure of hearing. Our initial reaction, after caving in and feeding her several nights/early mornings in a row, was to put her in the laundry room before my wife and I went to sleep at night. This, however, was not the best solution in the world, our cuddly little black mass didn't seem to like it very much and after a while she wasn't the warm and cuddly cat we knew before.</p><p>There must to be another solution to this dilemma. Fortunately, there is. What your cat is, is what has been termed as an "alarm clock kitty", what that is, is a cat that wakes up very early (or stays up very late) and begins to meow at approximately the same time every single, bloody day in expectation of being fed. Unfortunately for those of us who enjoy sleeping at night this is a natural behavior in cats and while the problem may not happen to every cat owner it happens to many. So what can you do? Even though cats have been domesticated animals for thousands of years now dating back to ancient Egypt, they still have retained most of their wild instincts and this is a cat's natural instinct; hunt and feed. Cats are predatory animals, they hunt, and the cat's natural time to hunt generally falls between dusk and dawn because most of the prey they hunt are nocturnal (rats, mice and other rodents). So, if you can't or don't want to let your cat out at night to hunt on her own what should you do?</p><p>Training your cat to stop this behaviour may be fairly easy, but be warned, it will take a little patience on your part but a good night's sleep may be the reward. What you need is a cat toy, preferably a mouse or something similar, a piece of string and a stick. Attach the cat toy to a string and the string to the stick. While you are watching your bedtime TV or doing whatever your before bedtime ritual is take your cat toy and play a hunting game with her. Cats love to chase things because of their hunting instinct. Play with your cat for about 15 minutes, enough time to tire your cat out and give her the satisfaction of having hunted. During your game create as realistic a hunting scenario as you can, make noises like a mouse (or whatever animal you are emulating) squeaking or scurrying through the brush. Let your cat catch the toy from time to time so that your cat will feel as if she was involved in a successful (rather than a frustrating) hunt. Towards the end gradually slow down the game drawing your little hunt to a close. Your cat will probably be sufficiently tired by this time. At the end of the game feed your cat something you know she likes. You don't need to feed her a full sized meal, but feed her an amount sufficient enough to satisfy her hunger. A handful of cat treats or a little piece of left over pork chop may be sufficient. Then go to sleep. In all likelihood your cat will be satisfied and will not continue her ritual of waking you up every morning.</p><p>You may need to continue your hunting game with your cat for a week or two before the early morning meowing goes away, and even after it does its a good idea to play this game with your cat from time to time in order to keep the behavior from returning and to keep your cat feeling like an accomplished hunter. But if you follow this routine you should be able to satisfy your cat and get a little shut eye at the same time.</p><p>Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, <a target="_new" href="http://www.zapgraphix.com">ZapGraphix.com</a>, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.

Round Pen: The Great Equalizer

Although many horsemen and trainers extol the virtues of the round pen, many horse owners still overlook just how powerful such a pen can be in developing or maintaining a relationship with a horse. This is a shame because it is truly what I call the Great Equalizer in a horse-human relationship. Perhaps that bears some clarification?</p><p>I've found many horse owners to be concerned about their physical strength as opposed to that of their horse. They fear they simply cannot firmly establish themselves as the alpha, or leader, of the relationship because the horse is so much stronger. Thus when their horse displays poor ground manners or commits an inappropriate action they are more prone to ignore it and hope it doesn't develop into worse behaviors. After all, what choice do they have? The horse is just too strong.</p><p>The reality is that, except for the youngest of foals, a horse will always possess more raw strength than a human. Any attempts to overpower a horse with sheer strength are doomed to fail. Techniques such as raising your voice towards or slapping a misbehaving horse do not rely on strength ? they are psychological. The horse does not want the conflict to escalate as it is uncertain exactly what your capabilities are, therefore it submits.</p><p>Of course there are exceptions, and truth be told such techniques are best used on already-trained horses or in situations where you cannot properly establish your authority due to lack of time or proper surroundings. The best way to instill respect and discipline into a naughty horse is by incorporating the Great Equalizer: the round pen.</p><p>Whereas many people view a round pen as a means for exercise (and it is true that it's a great exercise tool), the true power behind the round pen is its ability to establish dominance in a completely non-forceful method. In the round pen, physical strength means very little. It is a quick and easy (as opposed to other methods) technique to make your alpha status known.</p><p>Allow me to share an example that will better illustrate why a round pen will serve you better than strength.</p><p>I once owned a willful young colt raised by a first-time mother, so unfortunately the mare wasn't all that familiar with the need to discipline her colt. In fact although the colt was really quite a nice horse, he was unruly and tended to do whatever he wanted from day one. An experienced mare would not have permitted such antics, and had she "laid down the law" better from the first day the colt would likely have been a little less rambunctious.</p><p>Soon it came time to provide halter and lead training to this young upstart, and true to his form he made sure the task was trying. Although more than willing to walk with you, he felt there was little need to do so in an orderly fashion. If he "accidentally" bumped into you, or strayed so far from your side that you had to cling to the lead line with an iron grip, so be it. Snapping or jerking the lead line didn't impress him much.</p><p>Even worse, as a colt develops into a mature stallion they often can become very "nippy." This one was no different at first. Just as he did with his mother, he would sneak tiny bites and nips when you weren't watching, and although there wasn't mean intent behind them let's face it ? they hurt!</p><p>Anytime a horse strikes at you (and a nip should be considered a strike) it's important that you retaliate with conviction so they think twice about doing so again. But when I would give this colt a fairly light slap he would almost smirk to himself and try to nip me again! Was he being mean-spirited? No! This colt grew up with no significant discipline from his mother and no fear of humans ? we imprinted him from birth and thus he trusted us. Since he did not fear me, he thought I was engaging in some horseplay as any other colt would do.</p><p>A slap, as harsh as it sounds to us, is not always about force. It generally does not cause a horse much pain, but rather it is intended as a shock technique for a horse that already recognizes you as an alpha. Since this colt saw me as a playmate and equal, he possessed no fear of my slaps ? my choice was to either escalate the physical force (which is generally not my first choice) or establish my dominance in a gentle way via the round pen.</p><p>Once I established that slaps or verbal growls would not have any effect on this colt, anytime he would nip at me or try my patience with his rebellious ways we would march straight to the round pen or enclosed paddock. While this colt found the notion amusing for the first five minutes or so, eventually the round pen will drain the "oats" from nearly any horse and he was no different.</p><p>With consistent round pen work, this colt soon learned that I wasn't a simple playmate ? I was his leader. Although we could still enjoy each other's company, it had to be on terms that were agreeable to the both of us (no more black and blues!). Due to consistent round pen work, the leading, nipping and general disrespect issues became a thing of the past.</p><p>I hope my example of this young colt showed the folly of depending upon physical force to achieve your goals ? "outgunning" a horse is not easy, practical or desirable. Never accept poor behavior and do not feel your authority is measured solely by your raw strength; both are mistakes that are all too commonly committed by horse owners. Instead consider the use of a round pen (or in a pinch you can use a longe line) and find out how easy training and discipline can be when using the Great Equalizer.</p><p>Jeffrey Rolo, owner of AlphaHorse and an experienced horse trainer and breeder, is the author of the above article. You will find many other informational articles dealing with horse training and care as well as games and other horse fun on his website: <a target="_new" href="http://www.alphahorse.com">http://www.alphahorse.com</a>