Canine Diabetes

How To Setup A Freshwater Tropical Fish Tank

2009-02-05T19:40:00.001-08:00

This is an 11 step guide to setting up a freshwater aquarium in your home.
Equipment you will need:
Aquarium
Aquarium gravel
Aquarium filter
Replacement filter media
Heater
Other decorations (such as plants)
Chemical test kits
Fish food
Aquarium vacuum
Fish net
Glass Scrubber
5-gallon bucket
Pasta strainer

STEP 1: Realize the responsibility involved. A tropical fish tank is just like having a dog or a cat when it comes to the amount of effort on your part. In order to have a successful fish tank you will have to work at it. Once a week, or at most once every two weeks, you will need to perform some kind of maintenance on the tank. Most of the time you will be performing water changes. You will also have to feed your tropical fish at least once a day. If you are up to the challenge, please proceed!
STEP 2: Decide on an aquarium size. It's a good idea to have in mind what kind of tropical fish you want to keep before you purchase an aquarium. Some tropical fish only grow to be an inch or two, whereas other types of tropical fish can grow 12 or 13 inches in length! Knowing what kind of tropical fish you want will help you decide the size of the tank they will need. If this is your first time with an aquarium, I would recommend going with a 10 or 20 gallon aquarium for now.
STEP 3: Decide on the aquarium's location. Place your aquarium in an area where the light and temperature of the tank won't be affected by external sources such as windows and heater vents. You will want to place your aquarium on a stand that will be able to hold its total weight. A good rule of thumb for determining the total weight of a full aquarium is 10 pounds per gallon of water. For example, a 55-gallon tank will weigh approximately 550 pounds when filled with water!
STEP 4: Buy your aquarium and equipment. Now is the time to decide on the type of filtration you will want to use. You will also need to purchase a heater capable of heating the tank size you have. Buy the gravel, plants, a power strip and other decorations. A good rule of thumb for the amount of gravel that you will need is 1 to 1.5 pounds of gravel per gallon of water.
STEP 5: Set up your aquarium and stand. Wash out your tank with water only! Do not use soap or detergents. Soap residue left behind will be harmful for your tropical fish. If you are going to use an under gravel filter (not recommended) now would be the time to set it up as well.
STEP 6: Wash Gravel, plants and decorations. Be sure to wash the gravel thoroughly before adding it to your tank. An easy way to do this is to put some of the rocks in a pasta strainer and wash them out in your bathtub. Then place the clean gravel in a clean 5-gallon bucket for transport to the aquarium. After adding the gravel you can place your plants and decorations.
STEP 7: Add water to the aquarium. To avoid messing up your gravel and plants, you can place a plate or saucer in the middle of your aquarium and direct the water flow onto the plate. Use room temperature water when filling. To remove the chlorine and chloramine, use something like Tetra AquaSafe for Aquariums. Don't completely fill up the aquarium until you are sure of the layout of your decorations. Otherwise, when you place your arm in to move stuff around water is going to spill over. Doh!
STEP 8: Set up equipment. Install your heater but don't plug it in until the thermostat in the heater has adjusted to the water temperature. This usually takes about 15 minutes or so. Hook up your filter and any other equipment you have, then top off the aquarium water to just under the hood lip. Place your hood and light on the aquarium and then check your power cords to be sure that they are free of water. I would also recommend using a drip loop on all of the power cords to be extra cautious. Plug all of the equipment into a power strip and then "turn on" the aquarium.
STEP 9. Wait, wait, wait and then wait some more. I know, you want to add some tropical fish. But, in order to do this right you must wait until your aquarium has cycled before adding any fish. There are ways of speeding up this process. Check out the nitrogen cycle page to learn more. If you must use fish to cycle, try to get a hardier species like the zebra danio or cherry barb.
STEP 10. Add tropical fish. Only add one or two fish at a time. Adding a couple tropical fish at a time gives your filtration system the time needed to take on the increased biological load that the new fish introduce. When you bring the fish home let the bag float in the tank for about 15 minutes so that the fish can become acclimated to the temperature and pH of the aquarium water. After 5 minutes of floating the bag you should add some of the aquarium water to the bag so that the fish can become acclimated to the pH level in the aquarium. This will help reduce the amount of stress imposed on the tropical fish. Stressed tropical fish often leads to dead tropical fish! Don't feed your tropical fish on the first day. They probably wouldn't eat any food on the first day anyway. Let them get acquainted with their new home.
STEP 11. Get ready for regular maintenance. Be prepared to spend some time once every week or two to clean your tank. Performing regular water changes will reduce the nitrate levels and keep your tropical fish happy and healthy.
For more tropical fish and aquarium information, please visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.fishlore.com">FishLore.com - Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information</a>.

Mike is an editor at <a target="_new" href="http://www.fishlore.com">FishLore.com</a>. Designed for beginners, FishLore.com provides tropical fish information, how-to guides, articles, fish profiles, FAQs, forums and more! <a target="_new" href="http://www.fishlore.com">FishLore.com - Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information</a>

Protecting Your Child from a Dog Bite

2009-02-05T03:40:00.001-08:00

Dogs make great loyal pets and are always pleased to see their owner; they are loving and have their own distinct personalities. However, every animal has the potential to become aggressive. Each year 200,000 people are bitten by dogs in the UK, and a number of those are tragically killed as a result. It is an extremely distressing statistic which comes as a surprise to many people who see dogs as friendly animals which often become part of the family unit.

Being bitten by a dog is unpleasant for anyone. Even when a dog is playing, its strong jaw can inflict wounds to human flesh that cause pain and infection. Even breeds of animal that are known for their gentle temperament are potential biters. Any dog can become annoyed and agitated during hot weather, when they are eating, sleeping or with their puppies. Amongst the number of people bitten by dogs is an alarming amount of children. 70% of all dog attacks are on children with 77% of the animals known to the child.

Children are attacked by dogs for several reasons. Firstly, their inexperience and trusting nature can result in an angry dog; they are not aware that dogs can be dangerous, as the family pet is often well loved by children. They may irritate a dog without realising it by playing and stroking a dog that is feeding or sleeping. It is not advisable to leave a child unattended with any animal whether it is the familiar family pet or an unknown dog. The second reason that children are susceptible to dog attacks is their height. A child is often the same height as a dog and young children will come face to face with a dog when standing. Whilst an attack on an adult may result in a bitten arm or leg, an attack on child can lead to serious facial and head wounds.

There are several points that can be followed to help prevent a dog attack on an adult or a child. They are as follows:

? A dog should never be disturbed when it is eating, sleeping or caring for its puppies

? A dog that is tied up behind a fence or in a car shouldn't be approached

? Never touch a dog without letting him see and sniff you first

? You must always ask permission to stroke someone else's dog, some animals don't react well to strangers

? Never approach a strange dog or a dog without its owner

? Never tease a dog by poking it

? Never run away from a dog that is chasing you, stop and stand still and calm and back away from the animal without looking into its eyes. Never scream

? If a dog attacks it is a good idea to put something between you and him such as a jacket or bag

? If a dog attacks you should curl up into a ball and cover your head with your hands

If you own a dog you are responsible for its behaviour and must make sure that there is never a situation where it may bite someone, especially a child. Dogs should be socialised as puppies so that they are used to humans and not just people that are known to them. They should also be trained in the basic commands such as sit and stay. Unfortunately, it is impossible to completely control a dog; a dog that is normally placid and friendly can become aggressive suddenly and without warning. They are hunting animals and their natural instinct is to attack when irritated. When provoked, chased or encouraged to become excitable they are more likely to bite.

If you have been bitten by a dog you should obtain the owners details, including insurance information so that you can make a compensation claim from the owner of the dog. You should seek medical advice if you have serious wounds or wounds that could become infected.

Sadly, dog bites are extremely common, however, if a dog is properly trained and supervised at all times the chance of an accident happening can be minimised. It is also advisable to have adequate insurance that will cover you should your dog bite someone. If you have been bitten by someone else's dog and it can be shown that the dog has been aggressive before, then you can claim compensation for a personal injury. Claiming compensation can help you to get your life back on track and compensate you for any losses incurred, such as loss of earnings or medical expenses.

To make a dog bite compensation claim call YouClaim on 0800 10 757 95 or visit www.youclaim.co.uk to find more information about dog bites and claiming compensation.

Editorial notes: YouClaim provides full accident compensation services. Helps people to claim compensation for all types of injury from whiplash to head injuries.

By Sophie Evans
<a target="_new" href="http://www.youclaim.co.uk">http://www.youclaim.co.uk</a>
Compensation following a non fault accident.

You Should Teach Your Puppy Proper Chewing Behavior

2009-02-04T10:00:00.001-08:00

As much as you may love your cute, new puppy, if she chews on everything in sight--including you--she will not be cute to you for very long. Puppies that are left to their own devices can destroy a home quickly. Just as training is required to housebreak your little fur ball, training is also necessary to teach them appropriate chewing behaviors.

Many believe the longer a pup is allowed to stay with her mother and siblings, the better she will behave. It seems that puppies younger than eight weeks--who are taken from their mother--exhibit a more aggressive form of chewing and biting over those pups which are separated after the two-month mark.

Pups learn from the day they are born what is expected of them. Most pups find their mother is very tolerant of being chewed and gnawed on. However, as the pup grows and those sharp little teeth start coming in, the mother dog starts setting the limit on how much nipping she will tolerate, especially if she has a large litter using her for a chew toy! The mother dog will usually get up and leave the area which will eventually teach the little squirts to be gentle with her.

This is usually when the pups start rough housing and playing with their litter mates. Nothing is more enjoyable than watching a pile of pups roll, tumble, and clumsily play with each other. Nevertheless, it is important to understand what is taking place during this time. What looks like good old puppy fun to us is truly a necessary part to a dog's development. During this time with siblings, puppies are learning their place in the "pack." They are figuring out who is the boss, and they are testing their limits with each other.

When a puppy nips or chews on their sibling too hard, they are shocked when their sibling lets out a yelp. One of two things usually occurs at this point. The hurt sibling will either fight back and nip their sibling in return even harder, or the hurt pup will refuse to play with the biter any longer. Both of these approaches work to teach pups how to interact. When pups are taken from their mother and litter mates too soon, they miss out on this much needed character and personality training.

If your puppy is chewing everything in site, it can be very frustrating. Who wants to come home to find an expensive pair of shoes torn apart or feathers from pillows floating in the air? I know of one particular couple who came home to find their entire couch shredded down to the springs. Their two pups were snoozing in the midst of all the mess oblivious to their naughty deed. Also, it is hard for children and adults to be around a puppy who thinks that fingers, toes and pant legs are an invitation for teething and biting. Situations like this are why many pups find themselves banned to the outdoors, or locked in a crate for hours on end, while their owners are at work.

It is important to understand that teething is as natural to a puppy as teething is to a human infant. It is just a fact of life. You cannot expect your puppy to not want to chew. It helps her teeth come through the gums, and it also promotes the development of her adult teeth under the gums. Puppies see no differentiation between a bone and a hairbrush. Both serve the purpose to a puppy. In fact, most puppies will sometimes seek out items that have their owners scent if they are having separation anxiety. So, it is important that you teach your pup from day one proper chewing behaviors. If not, your puppy will assume everything in the home is at her disposal whenever it suits her.

The best advice is to go out and purchase your puppy some chew toys. These toys should be mentally stimulating to your pup. If not, your pup will soon tire of them and return to the piano leg! Some chew toys can even be purchased which have treats inside. These treats take some work to get to. Your pup can spend hours figuring out how to chew on these toys in the right manner to reach the yummy inside. Once your puppy has learned there are items in her home which provide her with a snack, she will tire of your shoes, furniture and clothing. It is good to stock up on the chew toys which seem to stimulate your pup and occupy her time the most. You should only leave one or two of these out at a time. You should also rotate the toys to ensure she doesn't get bored.

The important thing to remember about chew toys is that you should not purchase ones that have a hidden bell or other device which can pose as a choking hazard. You should also avoid toys that have been chemically treated.

When your pup gets overly rambunctious and starts nipping and chewing on you, you should handle the situation like her mother and litter mates would. This is especially important if you have a pup which was taken from its mother and siblings rather early. When your pup starts nibbling on your person, or clothing, you should let out a noise that lets her know it hurt. This is not a problem if she has actually nipped at your skin! But, you should also put on your acting hat and let out a yelp if she is pulling on your shoe laces or pant leg. When you do this, it will usually startle her. You should immediately walk away from your dog, or leave her in the area alone.

It will take consistency and repetition for your puppy to get the message that what she is doing is wrong. However, if she is a slow learner, you can let out your "yelp" and put her in her crate. You shouldn't be harsh about the manner, as this will only confuse her. Once she is in her crate, she may turn on the tears and start trying to manipulate you with her whiney groans of dissatisfaction. When this occurs, you should never take her out. Wait until she has stopped her tantrum and then release her. When you let her out, be affectionate with her and let her know all is well. You should not hold a grudge, as your dog is incapable of understanding why you are angry. Also, when you place her in her crate, it should only be for a few minutes . . . unless she is having a full-blown tantrum. Then you should wait until she quiets. If you are consistent with this approach, your pup will soon learn that when she nips, chews or bites she will have to go to time out.

Puppies love to be handled and may affectionately want to play with you like she would her litter mates. It is perfectly fine for a pup to want to lick or even playfully hold your fingers in her mouth as you play. This is normal, and a form of bonding. However, any form of aggression or pressure should be promptly discouraged. Puppies usually learn by four months what is appropriate in regards to chewing . . . if their owners are consistent with training.

Author Ian White is founder of Dog-Breeders.biz. This extensive online directory includes listings by private breeders, kennel clubs, and occasional hobby or family breeders. Those seeking dogs can locate and match with appropriate breeders. Dog- Breeders.biz automates the matching of dogs for sale with dog wanted entries, with daily email notifications to all parties. <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-breeders.biz">Dog lovers and breeders find more information </a>

Crate Training Dogs: The Right Way and the Wrong Way - Part One

2009-02-03T08:10:00.001-08:00

Part1: There is Actually a "Wrong" Way to Crate Train

Crate training dogs, (or crate training puppies) if approached correctly is by far one of the most effective tools you can use to form good dog behavior.

The most subtle mistakes in crate training are sometimes the worst because they go undetected and are repeated over and over again which can make the whole experience of potty training dogs negative and frustrating.

Using the correct method of crate training you can avoid subtle mistakes and have your puppy or dog's training move along quite smoothly.

Even though crate training dogs is by far the best way to potty train, it can backfire if not done correctly. This is why there are so many pet owners who attempt crate training and wonder why they're still having problems; because there is a right way and a wrong way to approach the whole process.

My proven methods of crate training make this stage both a positive and rewarding experience for both you and your puppy (or dog).

A Basic Understanding:
---------------------

The first step in puppy training or dog training is to learn how your puppy or dog is viewing things, what actually forms his puppy behavior and what you can do to appropriately shape it.

By understanding the canine mindset better, you can make the process a lot easier and faster, which in turn makes it a lot more fun and rewarding for both you and your puppy.

So in order to be successful in crate training dogs or puppies, a basic understanding of "natural" puppy behavior is needed. Here are a few examples:

1. Dogs cannot view things the way we do; and in fact many times situations are just the opposite of what it looks like from our perspective.

2. Dogs do not make connections between cause and effect when any amount of time has passed.

3. Dogs do not understand the spoken language unless it's paired consistently with something meaningful to them.

4. Dogs are frightened and confused by anger that humans display.

5. When a dog experiences fear and confusion as a result of a human getting angry with him this also slows down the dog's learning process since effective learning cannot take place under these conditions.

What Dogs Do Understand:
------------------------

Some of what dogs and puppies do understand is:

* Instinct and self preservation-(neither of which they have conscious control over)

* Immediate consequence to action

* Positive rewards

* Tone of voice

* Some body language

And they are effected by our emotions even when they don't understand them.

Dogs and puppies respond more quickly and more reliably to positive incentives than to fear or punishment. And in dealing with puppies, fear and punishment can and will damage their personalities for life.

In many cases, punishment tactics actually cause behavioral problems, can compound existing ones, and can even bring about the opposite behavior than what we are trying to achieve.

Crate training dogs and crate training puppies using positive behavior shaping methods allows you to effectively train your pet without having to use punitive measures at all.

Kathleen Amaro is the owner of <a target="_new" href="http://www.puppy-potty-training.com">http://www.puppy-potty-training.com</a>. Her instantly downloadable ebook "25 Secrets to Raising the Perfect Puppy" not only tells you how to raise the perfect puppy, it presents the exact methods of how to <a href="http://www.puppy-potty-training.com">crate train</a> your puppy or dog using only positive and healthy learning techniques.

Dogs and Old Age, How To Care For Your Aging Canine

2009-02-02T21:30:00.001-08:00

Now that you're dog has shown you so much love and brought you so much joy throughout your many years together, it's time that you return the favor when the dog reaches his elder years. Caring for an older dog is much like caring for an elderly person. Knowing how to do that will help comfort your dog immensely.

What's old for a dog?

The first thing that you've probably heard is the seven-year rule (that your dog ages seven times faster than a human). While this is pretty much accurate, some dogs (or breeds of dogs) show signs of aging earlier than others. So, you're going to have to know what signs to look for to ascertain whether your dog has officially reached his "golden years."

Senility is not just for humans.

If your dog is older than seven (human years), then he's officially becoming older. While some dogs may show signs far after seven, you may notice some of the following characteristics once he reaches an older age. You may notice that your dog has lost some of his housetraining skills. He may soil or wet the area, especially through the night when lying down. He may have trouble chewing food due to loose teeth and sore gums. He may suffer from cataracts or even partial or full blindness. He may gain weight more easily. Weigh your dog every couple of months. If you notice large lumps under his skin, it's advised that you consult your veterinarian, as this may be a sign of a possible tumor or cancer. Your dog may even become grumpier.

While it's impossible to cure all of the maladies that accompany age, you can comfort your dog and make his older life enjoyable.

Medication can help

There are many drugs out there that can help your dog. While it's not advised to give your pet too many medications, there are some that can help if he's suffering joint or hip pain. If your dog seems extra tired or sore one day, go ahead and skip his daily exercise routine. If it last more than a couple of days, talk with your vet. Install a partial ramp over the steps to and from your house so that your dog doesn't have to deal with the harsh incline on his joints. Massage and rub your dog's muscles. Studies have shown that physio- or hydrotherapy can be extremely beneficial in your dog's elder years.

Grooming offers relief

Be sure to clip your older dog's nails as he probably doesn't run about as much as when he was younger. The nails won't naturally keep trimmed down, so you'll have to be sure to keep his nails under control. If you don't want to do it yourself, veterinarians usually provide this service. Your dog may become senile. While this is normal, some cases are so severe that they are compared to Alzheimer's. There are dog drugs, like those given to human Alzheimer's patents that have proven effective.

Routines are welcome

Be sure that you keep your dog on a regular routine. Exercise him daily. Control his weight. Buy high-quality food and groom, pet and cuddle with your dog frequently. Visit your vet at least once a year to screen for diseases. Buy an orthopedic bed mat for your older dog.

Disabilities can occur

If your dog is blind or nearly there, you can make a home solution of vinegar mixed with water to spray (about nose high) onto door frames and sofas so he doesn't run into them. Also, don't move furniture around. For deaf dogs, tell everyone (especially children), not to approach your dog too quickly. Be sure that the dog sees anyone coming towards him.

Caring for an older dog can be just as hard as caring for a puppy. Your dog will take kindly to the adaptations you've made, which will make his "golden years" truly shine.

About the Author:
Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-gifts-and-toys-for-dog-lovers.com">Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers</a>.

Helping Your Pets Cope With The Stress Caused By Loud Noise

2009-02-02T21:20:00.001-08:00

Which is the noisiest species of all? Nope, not the lions, or the elephants, or the geese? it's us, humans. Our voices were not enough, we started making music and creating musical instruments to help us being louder.

This Holiday season will not only be noisy, this year we're starting earlier because this year we have Election Day! Where I'm from, we go to the streets and make loud noises with our car horns after the results are official and we know our party won, maybe you're so excited because you know your candidate is going to win, that you are already prepared with everything to celebrate your triumph the noisiest way, but have you thought about how that noise affects your pet?

Pets don't understand what is happening, even if you dress them with a patriotic costume. They don't know this are "happy" noises, they just perceive them as a sign of danger. They get nervous, afraid, and if they feel they're exposed they will try as hard as they can to look for a hideout, sometimes this means they run away.

What can you do to minimize the effect of loud noises on your pet?

1.Ask your veterinarian if it's recommended to give your pet a mild sedative, be sure to ask for the correct dose depending on the pet's weight. There are natural remedies to cope with stress for pets you should consider those too.

2.Keep your pet in a room in which he/she feels safe. Put there his/her bed, fresh water, food and make sure the room has proper ventilation, but that the pet is not capable to escape.

3.If you have to leave your pet outside, check all fences for loose parts or openings and fix them in order to prevent your pet from escaping through them.

4.Keep your vet's phone number at hand in case of an emergency.

5.Make sure your pet wears his/her collar with ID tag at all times, and that the contact information in the tag is updated.

6.Keep a recent and clear photo of your pet available, in the event of your pet getting lost, you can make flyers and post them everywhere. Remember that a frightened pet can run long distances so he/she may end up far from home and don't know his/her way back. Send the photo to your local paper too, they must have a missing pets section and it can reach more people than the flyers.

Remember this is only the beginning, later comes, Christmas, New Year, 4th of July? Keep these precautions at hand and your pet will do fine.

Mariangie Gonzalez has a major in Animal Science and Pre-Veterinary and runs the day-to-day operations of her home-based business and website in which you can learn how homeopathic remedies could prolong and improve your pet's life. She can also help you start your own home-based 100% natural pet supplies business, you can visit online at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.MindBodyAndPaw.com">http://www.MindBodyAndPaw.com</a>

Are Exotic Cats a Threat to Public Safety? Why Exotic Pets Are Not Dangerous

2009-02-02T19:50:00.001-08:00

I would like to address some of the statements I have found on the web and in proposed ban bills portraying servals and other small wild felines as unpredictable and dangerous creatures. This is a clear case of "what you don't know you will fear." First of all, I would like to clarify for everyone that we are talking about tame, hand-raised pets bred in the United States. It's not like you take a trip to Africa, rope yourself a serval, and drag it home hissing and spitting!

In his best-selling book Fear Less, security and threat analysis expert Gavin de Becker writes "Unfortunately, when it comes to security, the American way has often been to implement procedures that are more relevant to assuaging public anxiety than they are to reducing risk." Ban laws are a prime example of an action that may ease anxiety, but fail to make the nation safer.

By saying that tame wild cats are "extremely unpredictable and dangerous creatures," people show their lack of understanding of animal behavior. These statements are wild exaggerations of the reality. Even wild animals in-situ (i.e. roaming untamed in the wilderness) do not behave in a dangerous, unpredictable fashion. Every animal has species-specific behavior patterns. These behaviors can be learned and understood by the owners of such animals in captivity, especially since they are very similar to the behaviors of a domestic cat.

These behaviors are not greatly different from domesticated animals. For example, the pattern of naturally occurring behaviors in wolves and domestic dogs is virtually identical. A poorly socialized domestic dog with a careless or un-informed owner can be far more "dangerous" than a serval or a caracal.

Our society's standard for a safe and lovable pet predator seems to be the domestic dog. However, even man's self-proclaimed best friend has been known to injure and sometimes kill us. Statistics suggest that between 2 and five million dog bites occur yearly. In fact, during the five-year period between 1989 and 1994, domestic dogs killed 45 children. Why doesn't this sad figure shock us more deeply?

Maybe it has something to do with the fact that during a similar length of time, an estimated 4,605 children were killed by humans (Lindsay, Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training). Approximately 5 children lose their lives every day due to maltreatment and child abuse homicide (U.S. Advisory Board on Child Abuse and Neglect, 1995).

To further put this in perspective, we must now consider the fact that even with the enormous number of dog bites each year and the number of fatalities due to dog bites, a child is statistically safer in the presence of the average pet dog than with its own family! The number of children murdered each year by their own parents and guardians overwhelmingly overshadows the number of people killed by dogs. We ourselves are the most dangerous and unpredictable animal on the planet.

Am I saying that servals and other exotic cats are not dangerous? No, if we define "dangerous" as having the potential to cause injury to a human being. Every animal can be dangerous, and every human can be dangerous. One thing I teach my dog behavior clients is that all dogs have the potential to bite. They will show aggression if placed in the wrong situation, just as even the most benevolent of humans will react with violence when sufficiently provoked.

However, these cats are certainly no more inherently dangerous than a domestic dog of comparable size. In fact, they are probably safer than domestic dogs; there has never been a report of a serval killing a human being, and their owners are generally very responsible about keeping them controlled.

Whether a dog, a person, or an exotic cat eventually injures someone depends on an uncertain balance of genetics, temperament, environment, and the unique circumstances they find themselves in.

Horseback riding is an example of a far more hazardous animal-related activity. In fact, many stables and equine event centers post signs informing patrons that participation in equine activities is inherently dangerous. According to the National Center for Health Statistics, 1218 people died while riding an animal between 1983 and 1994.

Horses have been known to viciously attack and kill their handlers and even people entering their pastures. A single kick from a horse can cause serious injuries or death. Horses are so powerful that even the strongest person stands no chance of restraining one if it is determined to break loose. When frightened, they flee and can easily trample one to death. Yet, horseback riding remains a popular youth sport.

Why doesn't the neighbor's 1200 pound horse or his Great Dane inspire as much fear as his cougar? I think two factors are involved: fear of the unknown and fear of predators. One of man's most primal fears is that of being eaten by a wild animal, of being the hunted rather than the hunter. Police canine units are so effective in subduing violent individuals that officers report that criminals are often more afraid of a dog than a gun. Offenders are more willing to risk death than a non-fatal bite from a German Shepherd.

Horses and dogs are deeply familiar to us; we've lived with them for centuries, watched them on TV, read cute and fuzzy stories about them, and associate them with companionship and service. When one happens to attack or kill us, we see it as an anomaly.

We know little of exotic cats through direct experience; for most of us, exposure is limited to nature programs emphasizing their killing power and the occasional sensational news article announcing the mauling of some hapless zoo employee. When you think about it, it comes as no surprise that we develop a disporportionate fear of these animals.

The text of a failed Oregon ban bill stated "It is almost impossible for an exotic animal to adapt to traditional household settings" and that "Exotic animals are by nature wild and dangerous and do not adjust well to captivity." These statements are both contradicted by the many thousands of examples of exotic companion animals living healthy, happy lives with Americans nationwide.

I would challenge anyone who truly believes those words to observe my serval Sirocco as he greets me with ecstatic purring and rubs against my legs when I come home from work, and then to watch him curl up beside me purring and licking my face as we watch a movie together. This is not rare; in fact it is typical of the experiences of the majority of exotic cat owners. This cat is as much a member of my family as the domestic dogs and cats you yourself may have lived with and loved.

The failed Oregon HB 3065 stated, "This 2003 Act being necessary for the immediate preservation of the public peace, health, and safety, an emergency is declared to exist." There is no emergency. Try to find any evidence of a public health or safety crisis being caused by the ownership of exotic animals. I assure you that you will find none. The number of people in the general public killed by escaped exotic cats in the past decade, across the entire United States, is believed to be zero. This includes not only small felines like servals, caracals, and bobcats but also lions, tigers, and cougars.

Now turn your attention to how much death and destruction has been caused by drunken drivers, parole violators, shoddy building contractors and even catholic priests. Shouldn't we as a country focus our efforts on legitimate public safety threats, rather than discriminating against the safe and legitimate activities of the citizens?

These bills are redundant. There are already laws in place providing for the criminal prosecution of those whose actions (and the actions of their animals) recklessly endanger the public. Our civil system is already a more than adequate means to punish those whose animals harm or otherwise disturb members of the public and to provide restitution to those who have been harmed. The extremely low number of incidents involving exotic animals proves the effectiveness of these current laws.

This article may be reprinted in its entirety only. Permission is not granted to reproduce in edited form or to support the ending of exotic pet ownership.

For information on wild and exotic cats from servals to tigers as pets, visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.exoticcatz.com">http://www.exoticcatz.com</a>. The site includes articles on care, behavior, housing, and legal issues as well as species profiles and photos.

This article may be reprinted in its entirety only. Permission is not granted to reproduce in edited form or to support the ending of exotic pet ownership.

Bark Collars: Stop Unwanted Dog Barking

2009-02-02T19:00:00.001-08:00

<h2>Bark Collars</h2>

Many pet owners become lost as to what to do when their dog is barking and nothing seems to stop him. Maybe it doesn't even bother the pet owner himself, but the neighbors are complaining. What can be done? A bark collar is one method to help control a dog's barking. Bark collars are used to stop a dog from barking, but should be used as a last resort.

While it may be inconvenient to the dog's owner, bark is part of owning a dog. It comes with the territory, so to speak. Understanding why your dog barks may help you realize what needs to be done. Often, the only thing that can be done is to use a bark collar. Here's how they work.

Suppose that while a dog owner is away from home, neighbors complain that the barking is unbearable. Perhaps a dog barks quite a bit at night and this leads neighbors to report the owner. Using a bark collar can help eliminate this. The collar is placed on the dog either all the time or during certain times that the pet owner wishes to stop the dog's barking. When the dog barks, a very small amount of electric stimulation which is similar to static shock is sent through the bark collar to the dog. While it is uncomfortable, it is not harmful. The dog barks again, and again, the collar sends the stimulation. The dog starts to relate the stimulation to the bark and will eventually stop barking.

A bark collar is a bark collar. It will do its job and eliminate or lessen the amount of barking a dog does. Deciding when to use a bark collar is the decision only the pet owner can make. A recommendation to use a bark collar is not bad, but it may be necessary. Should the dog keep barking and causing the pet owner's neighbors to report it, can lead the animal to being removed. If a bark collar can stop this, it may be necessary. But, before resorting to this level, a pet owner should try to find out why his dog is barking. Using a bark collar sparingly or only during specific times may also lessen the effects on the dog. While a great tool, the decision to use a bark collar should be thought about first.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net">http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net</a>

Byron Pappageorge

Safety Tips for Moving With Pets

2009-02-02T17:30:00.001-08:00

Which kind is your pet? The pooch who is the first one in the car when the door opens, or the kitty who runs to hide at the first hint of travel? Both kinds face dangers on the road, but there are steps you can take to protect them. Even the happiest traveler can get into trouble, and it can happen even on a short jaunt to the grocery store.

What can you do?

1. Always use ID tags. When traveling, add an extra tag with your cell phone number. If you don't use a cell phone, add the number of a trusted friend who will be at home while you're on the road.

2. If your pets are microchipped, be sure to call and update your address and phone number. If they aren't microchipped, consider having it done.

3. Keep your pet contained. The back of a pickup is NOT a safe place, but if your pet must travel there, either put him in a secure carrier, or cross tie him so there's no chance that he can fall or be thrown over the side. Falling from trucks is a major cause of lost and/or injured pets. Sometimes the fall is fatal. Also, remember that the temperature of your metal pickup bed corresponds to the weather. Use a liner so that you don't burn his feet, or freeze them!

4. While a few cats travel well in cars and stay put, they should ride in a carrier so they can't jump out when the door opens and can't suddenly decide to ride under the driver's feet or around his or her neck.

5. If at all possible, contain your dogs in a carrier inside the car. This is a safety precaution for both you and the dog.

6. Remember the heat factor. Don't take your pet if you'll have to stop for more than 5 minutes on a hot day. Temperatures inside your vehicle can reach killer heights in a matter of minutes. You love him?don't cook him! Cold weather holds a similar danger for your short haired friends.

7. Take water and a water dish! When you reach for a drink remember your pet probably needs one too.

8. When you stop for a potty break, keep your pet on a leash. Even the most well trained dog can become frightened and bolt. You don't want your best friend running in traffic, and you don't want him lost up a mountain side or wandering in a strange city.

9. Don't discount anxiety. For pets who don't like to ride, anxiety comes from the trip itself. Moving to a new home can cause emotional upset for ALL pets. Your vet can prescribe a sedative for extreme anxiety, and there are also homeopathic products to help calm their nerves. Check at your nearest pet store.

10. Plan ahead and be sure to take medical records on long trips or moves. If you're missing any vaccination certificates, ask your vet for copies. You may have to give proof of vaccinations if crossing state lines. If you're relocating, your new veterinarian will want to know your pet's medical history, when he had his last vaccinations, etc. Proof of rabies protection is vital at this time, because an emotionally distraught pet could bite. (Yes, even your dog who has never hurt a fly.) Without proof of a rabies vaccination the dog would have to be quarantined, if not put down.

Moving day is a dangerous time for your pets. Take these additional precautions:

Containment: Do NOT try to keep an eye on the dog and cat and the moving all at the same time. Doors will be opening constantly and no one can watch every minute.

If your new home has a secure fenced yard in an area where the movers (or the family) will not need to go back and forth, it could be a safe place, but check often. Stop occasionally to give a treat or throw a ball? let him know that this is an OK place and that you are nearby.

If you own a kennel cage, put it up first and put your dog inside until things settle down. Be sure to stop and talk to him now and then.

If you own kennels that your pets use for sleeping or riding, place them in the quietest room of the house and put your pets in them until the movers have left or everything is unloaded. Leave the cats in their travel carriers until you're sure the doors won't be opened by movers.

If you have no fenced yard and your dog is accustomed to staying home without one, be sure to go outside with him the first several days. If you must leave him outside alone, tie him on a long chain or cable tie. (Not a rope - they are too easily chewed.) You and the dog may hate the idea, but his safety is worth a few days of discomfort.

Anxiety:

If your dog sees his role in life as protector, he or she will hate the movers being there and handling your belongings. Put him in the back bedroom or the yard where he can't see what's going on. Don't let him follow them back and forth, because this is a sure formula for disaster. You don't need your dog being lost or hurt, and you don't need to deal with your insurance over a dog bite. Remember, even the calmest dog WILL BITE if severely provoked.

Remember that moving to a new home is traumatic for your pets. After things settle down on moving day let them take a tour of the house, with you along acting relaxed and happy. Don't transmit your fatigue to your pets!

Understand that your housebroken friend may relapse at this time. If your new home was formerly occupied by other pets yours may feel a need to "mark" their territory. Not a pleasant thing, and not to be condoned, but don't go ballistic on them. If it appears that marking will be an ongoing problem you may have to shampoo the carpets with a special shampoo designed to kill the odors left by previous pets.

Marte Cliff is a Freelance Copywriter and co-founder of the Animal Rescue group in her hometown. She offers discounted rates for rescue groups needing fundraising letters and/or newsletters. You can visit her at <a target="_new" href="http://www.marte-cliff.com">www.marte-cliff.com</a>

A Guide to Successful Obedience Training

2009-02-02T05:20:00.001-08:00

Showing off your dog in front of friends and family is something that I personally love to do. Having an obedient, happy slab of lab is like having an obedient happy child. Have you ever been in a supermarket only to come across a screaming baby and a blushing parent? I know I have, and my first reaction is to get as far away from the disturbing scene as possible. I have also been in the undesirable situation of being in public with an unobedient dog and I can say, I feel the pain of the frantic parent!

The term, "A happy dog is an obedient dog" is one that I really believe holds a lot of merit due to its simplicity. If you have a relatively well behaved dog, that interacts well with the family, it is fair to say that rarely will you or anyone else in that family be angry or even worse abusive towards your pet. On the other hand if your dog is not obedient to a satisfactory level, and does not interact well with the family, one can say that members of that family will have a hard time coping with the pet and this trend can only escalate only leading to the eventual departure of the pet from the family.

When teaching your dog basic obedience, it is wize to make sure that you first have an understanding of the art yourself. Like people, dogs have unique personalities none of which are the same, and it is a good trainer that will take the time to figure out the dog before trying to figure out how to best approach introducing basic obedience. Furthermore, there are many external resources out there for you to take advantage of in order to help you understand the art of training. Books, articles, Obedience Instructors, and the internet, are all viable sources that you should take advantage of when seeking advice, or just experiences from others in your situation.

Below I have listed my top ten components to keep in mind when working with your dog. I did not rank them, as they are all very important to keep in mind as they will only aid you in bonding, understanding, and interacting positively with your four-legged friend:

- Know what your doing. Before comensing any type of training, do your research first! To offen, pet owners try to do all the work their way, get frustrated and take out their frustrations on their pet. Having an understanding of the methodology behind the many types of training, will benefit you to know end.

- Consistancy. Being consistent with your approach is very very important when dealing with your dog in any aspect of life. When working with your dog try to use the same approach each time. Changing training methods mid session for example will only confuse your dog even more than he-she already is. Furthermore, set up training time at least twice a day, and keep to these times. Training time is important, the more sessions you set up the more productivity you can expect in the long run.

- Keep your sessions short. The attention span of a dog is frail at the best of times, thus it is crutial to keep the sessions short. Remember keep the sessions short but do not sacrifice content. Rome was not built in a day.

- Keep training sessions fun. Dogs as do people, like to have fun, and why shouldn??t they? Training can be fun for you and your pet! Be lively, treat good behavior, praise your dog to no end, make him feel like he is the best dog in the world, even if he's not!

- Never punish your pet for what they don't know! To offen, I have seen people talk to their pet with the understanding that their beloved dog is a master of the English language, only to punish them when the desired response is not carried out. This really bothers me because it shows me that that person would rather bully their pet into submitting than taking the time to research, develop and implicate an approach to help the dog learn the desired response to certain words or phrases. (No Hungmay Kowaisa!( Did you understan that? Well you would if you researched the Korean language??

- Train to your dog's strength. As stated above every dog has its own unique personality, therefore we must identify characteristics of our pets in order to take advantage of them in our training sessions. If your pet is very lively, take advantage of that! During training sessions, be lively yourself! Match your dogs enthusiasm, when your happy, your pet will be happy and your pet will be very happy come training time. If your dog has a laid back shy personality, take this into account when training. Still be lively and upbeat as this will spark the interest of your dog, however keep in mind that due to his/her personality, displaying comprehention may take longer due to the shy nature of your dog. It is really important to make a shy laid back dog feel super great during training sessions as this can only improve your chances of continuing successful training.

- Incorperate training into your everyday routine. It can be very beneficial to perform individual obedience exercises through out the day. Simply by performing the sit exercise while you brush him, or having the dog sit while you attach his leash can help to imprint the sitting position. Keep little things like this in mind as they can only aid you and your pet.

- Be patient. Remember you are trying to teach your dog! Your dog is a non-english speaking individual, lacking house manners, behavioral skills, curticy, do I need to continue?? Take your time, play to your dog??s strength, praise, respect, keep sessions short and compact, and have fun!

- Empithize with your dog. The best example I can think of for this suggestion, is going to a foreign country and trying to comprehend what people are saying. Somebody will come up to you and start rambling on in a foreign tongue and you have no clue what they are saying. Your dog is in the same predicament with you. When you start training your dog, he-she has no clue on earth what you are saying. How is he-she supposed to respond if he-she doesn't know what you want? As in the above example, the more time you spend in the foreign country, the more familiar you become with the language. You can apply the same principle with your dog. More training leads to more comprehention, leading to the end result, an obedient dog.

- Reward good bahavior. The best way to reinforce good behavior is to reward it. Others may disagree with this statement, but through my experience with my own dog and others around me, I have found that rewarding good behavior can only aid in maintaining that behavior. In my opinion, the best way of rewarding good behavior is through offering toys or treats. Praise is also worthy but would you rather have an icecream cone, or a good handshake? I personally love icecream and would pick that over a handshake anyday. Your dog is driven by his belly in most cases, and you can achieve astonishing success by baiting your dog with the occasional russle of the treat bag.

For more great articles and tons of other great dog info, visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.web-rover.com">Dog forum</a> or visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.petsblogs.com">Pet blog</a>

Buy Dog Travel Supplies Online

2009-02-02T02:40:00.001-08:00

Dog Travel Supplies

The shopping part along for dog travel supplies is amusing for sure. The trinkets, toys and accessories for pet product travel are a blast. Grab your favorite drink, your mouse and grease up that shopping finger and off we go to review those dog travel supplies.

We found, while shopping for Charlie pet harnesses that combine safety with convenience. The step-in padded harness is easy to fasten to your best pet friend and can also be used as a walking harness. The strap plugs into the car's seat belt buckle receptacle. It's recommend that for all pet travel you harness your doggie while driving for the protection of passengers and your little best pet friend.

Then add a nice durable car seat cover to protect your upholstery and everyone's a happy camper. These covers fit most vans, trucks, SUV's and cars with bench or fold-down seats. The outer shell is 100% polyester with a layer of foam for cushion and comfort. One side is a tan, soft pile and reversible to a durable gray polyester weave. Easy to care for, simply hand wash with a mild detergent soap and line dry. Measures 48"x 60".

Tip: Vehicle barriers and harnesses should always be used when traveling with your dog in a car, van or SUV. They not only protect your dog, but you and your passengers as well.

Pet barriers will fit either your Car, Van or Suv. Vehicle barriers should always be used when traveling with your doggie in the car, van or SUV. They not only protect your best pet friend, but you and your passengers as well. The different styles of pet barriers will allow you to fill your needs. There are barriers for small cars, mini and full size vans and SUV's.

We also needed a pet ramp and found training Charlie to use it was pretty simple.Charlie adapted to the ramp easily but we've been told that some of our doggies don't, we suggest you put the ramp flat on the ground & walk your pet friend over it (a reward placed on the ramp also helps or you might try feeding him on the ramp once or twice). When you raise the ramp, your pets favorite treat placed towards the top of the ramp also works the first time.

We had fun snooping around for dog travel supplies. Our pets always have softened our hearts, put smiles on our faces and even released stress as our minds went shopping for our family's best pet friend. Sit back, relax and enjoy yourself after-all think of all the joy those lovable pets of ours bring into our lives.

More dog goodies and information can be found at <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-stuff4u.com">http://www.dog-stuff4u.com</a>

Help Your Dog Become a Good Canine Citizen

2009-02-02T01:20:00.001-08:00

Is your dog a gentleman or lady? If so, you may be able to get an award to prove it from the American Kennel Club (AKC) through its Canine Good Citizen Program.

This certification program is for all dogs, whether purebred or mutt. Any dog who has completed his vaccinations can be tested, and there is no upper age limit.

Ten behaviors are tested:

1. Accepting a friendly stranger

2. Sitting politely for petting

3. Letting someone brush and groom him

4. Walking on a loose leash

5. Walking through a crowd

6. Staying in place (sit and down)

7. Coming when called

8. Reacting to another dog

9. Reacting to distractions

10.Being separated from owner for 3-minutes.

If your dog can't pass these, you need to initiate a training program. These are the social skills required for living with humans in urban America.

The tests are done at dog shows, community colleges and private training facilities. The AKC charges $5 for the certificate (if you pass) and some organizations charge a nominal amount for the test ($10).

To find a location, go the AKC website at

I'm really, really encouraging you to take advantage of this program.

You owe it to your dog to assure that he can survive in an urban setting and that he remains adoptable by someone else if something happen to you. Not everyone would put up with a nippy, barking, high-strung dog who thinks he's the king of household.

Your participation also encourages the AKC to continue this program. It's been around since 1989 but hasn't been publicized the way it should.

The AKC raises more than $50M a year from registration fees and does a lot of great work for purebreds.

The Canine Good Citizen is a way for them to help all dogs and dog owners no matter what they're background - something not all AKC members support.

More participation will ensure funding continues and the AKC expands the program.

We're also hopeful that insurance companies and landlords will start accepting the certificates and giving homeowners or renters a break on insurance rates or damage deposits.

With the increase in "dangerous breed" laws and rising homeowners insurance rates when you have a dog, it's important for all our dogs to be good citizens and respected members of the community.

Louise Louis is a long-time dog person and creator of <a target="_new" href="http://www.ToyBreeds.com">http://www.ToyBreeds.com</a>

The Top 3 Tricks Horse Owners Can Use To Unspoil A Barn Spoiled Horse

2009-02-02T01:00:00.001-08:00

It's been weeks since you went riding. Now you have time to ride this afternoon and there ain't no one gonna stop you. Excited, you saddle up your horse and get on him. You get about 50 feet from the barn and your horse turns around and goes back ? and you can't stop him. Why? You have a barn spoiled horse. This is a common scenario for novice horse owners.

Here are the top three tricks to solve the barn sour problem.

Teach your horse that you have control over him. Once your horse gets it in his mind that you can make him do what you want him to do, you have control over him and can thus make him leave the barn. One way to get control over him is to use a training technique called doubling. When you double your horse you teach him you can control him.

It doesn't take long before your horse will know you can control him. Be careful when doubling though. If you do it too much at a time you can over do it. Your horse could get so sensitive to you doing it that he may try to anticipate it. If he sees your hands making the slightest movement that looks like you're about to double him, he may double himself. Thus, just double him four to six times a day on both sides. He'll quickly learn you have control.

The next thing you can try is this: Make it dang hard to do the wrong thing ? and make it real easy to do the right thing. Here's what I mean. A while back my horse didn't want to leave her buddies or the barn. We'd get about 100 feet away and she'd turn around and bolt back. She'd stop in front of the barn expecting me to get off, remove the saddle and tack, and put her back into the corrals.

By my barn is two hay stacks. There is a space between them big enough to go through and do figure eights around the hay stacks. So every time she'd go back I would make her work, and work, and work at running figure eights around those hay stacks. Then I would test her to see if she had enough and would leave the area.

The first seven times she ran back. Each time we came back to the barn we'd run more laps around the hay stacks. I could tell she was getting tired. But the eighth time I walked her away from the hay stacks I noticed she went quite a ways before turning to go back.

When we went back again we ran more figure eights. Only this time I could tell we didn't have to do too many. I walked her out and away from doing the figure eights and I suddenly had a horse who decided that it was sooo much nicer going for a walk away from the barn rather than doing a bunch of crummy ol' figure eights. We had a nice ride that day and she was in no hurry to get home.

The last thing to do is this: Ride. Ride a lot. Don't wait for weeks or months in between riding. Try to ride at least once per week for three or four hours. Preferably, try to ride at least twice a week for a few hours at a time. (Ideally, you should ride everyday. But that's hard to do with today's time constraints) Doing that your horse will get in his brain that you're going to ride and he's going to leave the barn and there will be no argument. In fact, if you want to have a great horse the biggest secret is this: Ride the heck out him!

So if your horse is barn spoiled you can try doubling him to show you are in control. The next thing you can try is making the wrong thing difficult and the right thing easy. Make it dang hard for him to go the wrong thing and very pleasant to do the right thing. And lastly, ride your horse often. Two to three times a week if possible.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com</a>. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at <a href="http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm" target="_new">www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm</a>.

Choosing Between Dog Training Schools and Animal Behavior Specialists

2009-02-01T16:10:00.001-08:00

If you are having behavioral issues with your dog that you cannot seem to resolve on your own, getting professional help is an excellent idea. However, there are two different kinds of professionals that can help you with your situation: a Dog Training School, and an Animal Behavior Specialist. Which one is right for you and your pet?

The answer to this question lies in whether or not the behavior that the dog is exhibiting is normal, or explainable. For instance, if a dog is threatened in a violent manner (horrible to think about, but it does happen), then it would be appropriate for the dog to bite in retaliation. However, if a dog starts biting you after you feed him a treat, this isn't as easily explained. In this second situation, you'd want to access an Animal Behavior Specialist to get some help, instead of one of the many readily available Dog Training Schools.

Most behavioral issues with dogs are related to pet owners who aren't aware as to how to manage their dogs. For instance, jumping on people or things, pulling on their leash, not listening or responding to commands or eliminating in the home are all management issues. These can normally be treated with obedience training through a Dog Training School.

Dog Training Schools are usually staffed with professionals who have received formalized training in the field of animal behavior modification. The methods used in these programs teach you how to think like your dog, and communicate with each other better. They also help your dog to understand his place, what is expected of him, and how to stop negative behaviors, and replace them with positive ones.

If any of these behaviors are apparent in your dog, are causing a problem in your home, you'll need to contact a Dog Training School as soon as you are able, in order to start the training process quickly. These Dog Training Schools can correct behavior in as little as a couple of weeks.

Animal Behaviorists are professionally trained as well, but rather academically rather than vocationally. Their training normally includes some sort of graduate work in psychology, biology, chemistry, neurology, zoology and the like. They will also have specialized training in the types of animals they work with. These professionals are equipped to deal with the more serious of the behavioral issues in a pooch, such as aggression, fears, anxiety or compulsions.

After reading this article, choosing the proper professional to help you help your pet shouldn't be terribly difficult. Now all you need to do is find an appropriate person; ask friends, people who work at the local pet store and your vet for recommendations. Soon the negative behavior will only be a memory in your loved one.

(c) 2005 dog-training-info.com. This article may be republished as long as these bylines are included. Kevin Simmons is the webmaster of <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-training-info.com">http://www.dog-training-info.com</a>. Please visit the site for more free dog training articles. Online URL for this article: <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-training-info.com/dog-training-school.htm">http://www.dog-training-info.com/dog-training-school.htm</a>

Tips on Sexing Discus Fish

2009-02-01T10:50:00.001-08:00

Do you have some adult discus fish and want to know whether they are male or female. In this article I'm going to share with you some of the tips and techniques you can use to determine the gender of your discus or those you wish to buy.

First of all, know that these are only guides and they are not always 100% correct as in some circumstances females have male characteristics and males have female ones.

Here are ways to determine the sex of your discus

1, The dorsal and anal fins

Take a good look at the dorsal and anal fins of your discus. Are they rounded or are they pointed. Males tend to have pointed dorsal and anal fins or sometimes have extended growth on the end rear of the dorsal fin. Females tend to have rounds rear fins.

2, The colour and pattern of your discus

Please look at the colour and pattern of your discus fish, compare them to one another in the tank. Some fish will hopefully have more intense colour and some discus will have more pattern. Male discus fish tend to have less intense colour but have more pattern while the female tends to be more colourful but with lesser pattern.

3, Size of the discus

Compare the size of your discus. Male discus tend to be bigger than the females but the size can also depend on whether the fish was stunted or are just small in genetic make up.

I hope these three tips have helped you to sex your discus and will help you when selecting adult discus fish from a shop or dealer.

If you liked this information and want to learn more about discus fish care and breeding discus please check out my website <a target="_new" href="http://www.discus-fish-secrets.com">discus-fish-secrets.com</a>

Rob owns Discus Fish Secrets website helping begginners and advanced fishkeepers with discus problems including keeping and breeding them. Please visit the site for more information on <a target="_new" href="http://www.discus-fish-secrets.com">breeding discus</a>.

Hypoallergenic Dogs

2009-01-30T15:10:00.001-08:00

When we talk about hypoallergenic dogs, we mean that they have a less or reduced tendency to cause allergies or allergic reaction among allergy sufferers.

It has been estimated that about 10% of the US population is allergic to animals (American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology). Symptoms of the reactions can range from watery eyes to dangerous asthma attacks.

The problem is not with the pet's hair. It is the dander, or microscopic scales of dead skin (similar to, but much smaller than the dandruff on the human scalp) which pets are constantly shedding that is the cause. They are so tiny that you seldom know that they are circulating in the air or laying on the furniture and carpets because they are so small.

Here is a list of Hypoallergenic Dogs. If I have missed any I do apologize.

American Hairless Terrier
Basenji
Border Terrier
Cairn Terrier
Chinese Crested (hairless)
Havanese
Kerry Blue Terrier
Maltese
Miniature Schnauzer
Portuguese Water Dog
Shih-Tzu
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
Spanish Water Dog
Standard Poodle
Standard Schnauzer
Tibetan Terrier
Toy Poodle
West Highland White Terrier
Wirehaired Fox Terrier
Yorkshire Terrier

Please remember that no dog is 100% hypoallergenic and also that allergic sufferers react differently to each separate breed of dog.

For Westhighland Terriers owners, such as myself, the news is good. They are considered good for allergy sufferers, with a relatively low dander (ranked number 7). However you need to be reminded that one person's allergies may vary greatly from another person. It is always advisable to visit the home of the dog you wish to have, before you bring it home. I hope that you found this article of use to you

Good health and happiness

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

Jeff Cuckson
A Fellow Westies Lover
<a href="mailto:webmaster@madaboutwesties.com">webmaster@madaboutwesties.com</a>

Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest, Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie You Have Ever Dreamed Of! Then Visit NOW! <a target="_new" href="http://www.madaboutwesties.com">http://www.madaboutwesties.com</a>

How To Grow Daphnia For The Aquarium

2009-01-30T07:10:00.001-08:00

The benefits of feeding live food to fish in a community tank are many: live food will improve vigor and color, and more closely resemble the food found in the fish's natural habitat. Live food is easily obtained.

Some drawbacks include the transmission of diseases or parasites to the aquarium, it is time consuming to maintain the cultures, and a lot of space needs to be devoted to raising live foods. The cost of equipment and supplies needed to maintain cultures is also a consideration for the beginner.

In this article I will discuss how to raise Daphnia. This article will be part of an on-going series on live foods. You can find many more related articles at http://www.kingdiscus.com.

Daphnia belong to a group known as the Daphniidae, and are close relatives of the freshwater shrimp, and the brine shrimp (Artemia). Their generic name is generally referred to as "water flea." This common name is derived from the jerky movements of Daphnia in the water. The over 150 different species can be found in North America, with a similar amount of species growing in Europe. Some of these species find common ground on both continents.

Daphnia are a small crustacean, and are great to use as a fresh food because they will exist in the tank water until eaten by the fish. Daphnia can also be sterilized if it is felt necessary by placing in a 5% solution of Clorox for 3 to 5 minutes. Very few micro-organisms can survive this. Be sure, however, to rinse them thoroughly before feeding!

Daphnia can be raised both indoors and outside. Many people raise daphnia in a small children's wading pool. A more controlled environment, however, is done indoors, and can be done year round if one lives in northern climes. This can be as simple as a couple of two liter bottles, to a 20 gallon tub purchased from a store such as Menard's. The ideal situation is to have as much oxygenated surface area as possible, so if there is room for a larger container, by all means use it. A shallower environment suits daphnia best for prolific growth.

Setting up the environment for daphnia is quite simple. Many methods are used for collecting the water to use for the culture. The best advice I have heard is from Joe F. of Circle City Aquarium Club in Indianapolis, IN. He gave a presentation at the August meeting of Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, and recommends using tank water saved from a tank change. Joe has been raising live foods for a long time, and has had good success. His video presentation was top notch.

PH levels for successful Daphnia cultures should be in the range of 6-8, and should be more alkaline than acidic. If raised outdoors, no aeration is needed. If raised indoors, aeration should be adjusted to produce large bubbles. Small bubbles in the daphnia culture will cause the bubbles to become lodged in the carapace of the culture, and they will die.

Water temperatures for Daphnia magna are not a high requirement, but the optimal temperature should be in the 64-72 degree range. they are very tolerant to changes in temperature, and can withstand fluctuations down to freezing. In fact, Daphnia can be frozen and kept in the freezer, and then revived when needed. Moina withstand a higher fluctuation in temperature than do D. magna.

Lighting should be in the neighborhood of eight or more hours light per day and light intensity equal to or greater than 850 lux. A simple light and a timer can accomplish this indoors.

Feeding the Daphnia is where most aquarists fail. Daphnia feed on dissolved organic matter, yeast, various groups of bacteria, microalgae, and detritus, or mulm. Organic fertilizers, such as fresh cow manure. It is not recommended by our breeder, though, because of the antibiotics and supplements fed to dairy and beef cattle. A much better mixture is a combination of one tablespoon each of spirulina, soy flour, and active dry yeast, added to a pint of water. This mixture should be added so that the water is cloudy, but you are able to see the bottom clearly, and observe the Daphnia swimming in the culture. This mixture should be added carefully every two or three days, being careful not to over feed. At this time, you should see an abundance of Daphnia, and they can be harvested to feed your fish.

Harvesting is quite simple - simply use a small aquarium net, observing that the smaller Daphnia fall through the netting to grow further. In this way, the adults are harvested, and can be fed to your fish. The younger Daphnia can go on to produce still more fish food. Harvested Daphnia can be kept in the refrigerator for several days in clean water.

Daphnia are high in protein, and a very good diet for tropical fish. Some aquarists feed them exclusively. They provide up to 70% protein to your tropical fish, and are an excellent source of live food for the aquarium.

Much can be written on the culturing of Daphnia. This guide is only meant to help the beginner to live foods to establish a colony, and feed live food high in protein to their fish. A series of article on live foods is forthcoming, and can be viewed at http://www.kingdiscus.com.

Alden Smith is a published author, and has been marketing on the internet for 7 years. Read more articles at his website, <a target="_new" href="http://www.kingdiscus.com">King Discus</a>, an active gathering place for discus breeders and lovers of discus fish. His wife Betsy is the administrator of <a target="_new" href="http://www.allthebestrecipes.com">All The Best Recipes</a> a site rich in free online recipes and cookbooks.

Is He Chasing His Tail? What You Always Wanted To Know About Fleas

2009-01-30T05:50:00.001-08:00

My dog has fleas. That one statement is enough to make any visitor to my house run back down the walk to their car.

If you own a pet it's one of those unwritten facts that they will, at one time or another, have fleas. One of the not-so-fun jobs of pet ownership is dealing with an infestation or working to avoid one.

To cope effectively with fleas you should have an understanding of their habits and life cycles. I realize that doesn't sound like fun, sitting-in-front-of-the-fire reading material, but knowing what you're up against is winning half the battle before it starts. So here's the low down on fleas.

Adult flea - lives on the host animal (dog or cat), where the female lays her eggs.

Egg - flea eggs are laid on the animal but fall off into the bedding, carpeting, and elsewhere in the animal's home and hatch into larvae within a few days (depending on heat & humidity).

Larva - flea larvae feed on organic material in the environment and on the droppings from adult fleas. I know it's gross.

As the larvae feed on adult flea droppings, they are found in highest numbers in areas where flea-infested animals spend much of their time.

Pupa - after 5-11 days, the larvae produce a cocoon in which they complete their development. During this stage of their life cycle, fleas are resistant to flea sprays, shampoos, medications,etc.

In ideal conditions, adult fleas hatch from their cocoon in as little as 5 days, although they can live in the cocoon for up to 5 months.

Hatching is brought on by vibration, physical pressure, heat, and air; in other words, the your dog walks in the room, sits down and BAMM.

After hatching, the adult flea finds an animal and within 2 days the female flea begins producing eggs. Fleas can continue to produce eggs for up to 100 days and believe it or not, a single flea can produce thousands of eggs.

I know the whole concept of fleas and their life cycle is gross and personally if I wasn't confronted with our three dogs in constant agony looking at me with those big, sad eyes .. well I'd probably ignore the whole flea thing.

What you do now that you're armed with all this terrific flea knowledge is:

1. Control the fleas on your pet - keep them groomed and use shampoos made for flea control. There are flea medicines that we use in my house. Personally, I prefer "Frontline" because it is a gel and I just rub a little dab at the nape of their neck (do dogs have a nape?) and the fleas are ousted for thirty days or so. You can also get pills like "Program" that control the fleas by sterilizing any female flea that bites your dog.

2. Keep the pet bedding flea-free. This is probably what I had the most trouble with because I have three dogs and they don't sleep in actual beds. But, if you can keep the fleas off the bedding, blankets, carpeting or whatever area they stake-out as their own space, your battle is much easier. Some people even studied fleas and they decided that only about 5% of the adult flea population actually live on your dog. That means the other 95% plus are living either outdoors or in the bedding, carpeting and such.

Don't give up. If you can keep the fleas off your pet or at least under control AND if you are vigilant with the whole bedding issue then fleas won't control your life or that of your dog.

The author of this article, Joanne Robbins is an internet publisher of many sites including <a target="_new" href="http://www.jrsbigdog.com">http://www.jrsbigdog.com</a> where you can find more information about fleas, flea control, selecting the proper pet for your household plus additional health topics. Also read her Blog at <a target="_new" href="http://www.jrsmarketplace.blogspot.com">http://www.jrsmarketplace.blogspot.com</a>

Raw Feed? Are You Joking?

2009-01-30T03:30:00.001-08:00

Let's think about this for a minute: God did not design our animals to eat pre-packaged, kibble or pellet-like food. In the wild, dogs don't tell each other, "Hey, I'm hungry, let's go to the pet food store and grab us some lunch." As if!

No, together, they go out and hunt down their food, then dig right in while it's still warm. Sorry about the graphic image, but well, that's nature for you! They also do not stoke up a campfire and sit around singing Kum Bi Ya while the meat gets cooked. Nope they just have at it in the natural raw form.

Now you might be thinking, "Yeah but that's wild animals, not our sweet kitties and dogs." Think again. They are and will always be carnivores. They need raw meat and bones to be healthy with a fully supported immune system. Also the raw, non-weight bearing bones such as the shoulders and backs give dogs and cats strong, clean white teeth eliminating the need for dentals done under anesthesia at a veterinarian's office, something that is not only much riskier but much more expensive than feeding your dogs and cats what they were designed to eat: meat.

Your other pets such as horses, guinea pigs, birds and rabbits also need natural raw food in order to thrive. They do not forage for pellets, let me tell you. Many birds are omnivorous so they'll eat fruits, veggies and meat. While our other furry and feathered friends need to eat fresh fruits and vegetables.

Kim Christopher states, "Proper diet is among the more important considerations in the health maintenance of your pet and essential in the management of many diseases. To feed correctly, a knowledge of dietary nutrients and their availability is important."

And Dr. Russell Swift,"Carbohydrates are not needed by dogs(or cats). Carnivores cannot maintain long term production of the quantity of amylase enzyme necessary to properly digest and utilize the carbohydrates. In addition, the proteins in grains are less digestive than animal proteins. As a result, the immune system becomes irritated and weakened by the invasion of foreign, non-nutritive protein and carbohydrate particles."

So just what do you think most packaged pet foods commonly know as premium kibble contain? Grains. Byproducts. Toxic preservatives.

The question would then arise, if pet food manufacturers know this (they must because they're in business to know) why are these things added to our pet food and why are we told that these packaged foods are so good? Even our mainstream veterinarians are selling these foods to us.

Good questions. Part of the reason is because it's cheaper to use grains and byproducts. Byproducts can be anything we'd normally throw out such as beaks, feathers, feet/hooves, euthanized animals, road kill, you name it. It all gets rendered and added into our packaged pet foods.

Oh but it gets better. These foods are then baked. Here is what Dr. Betty Lewis stated on her website, "What's wrong with commercial foods? The number one item which makes commercial foods inappropriate for pets is that these foods are cooked. No one has ever reported seeing wild animals routinely barbecuing their meals! Raising the temperature of food above 118?F destroys all the enzymes and many of the nutrients."

To top it all off, in order to be able to say that these commercial foods have all the needed nutrients in them, they SPRAY on the nutrients. To get more details on this pick up the book by Ann Martin, Foods Pets Die For.

One of the best things you can do if you're confused about how to get started feeding your pets a natural diet is to first find a holistic veterinarian in your area and then find out what is appropriate for your pet. Homeopathic and holistic vets really adhere and promote the complete natural lifestyle for your pets and can help you put together a diet that will give your pet what he/she needs for full nutritional support.

All the problems we're seeing in our pets: allergies, skin disorders, cancer, diabetes, feather plucking, pulling out furr, etc., can almost alway be attributed to poor nutrition AND to food allergies. Their immune systems are compromised because they are not getting enough nutrition to support themselves which then weakens their immune system. Then we see disease. If the immune system is not supported properly, disease gets a front door welcome into your pets bodies.

So if you want to start seeing your pets live healthier, longer lives and also greatly reduce your vet bills, then switch to a natural, raw food diet. Your pets will love you for it!

References:
http://home.earthlink.net/~pawsreflect/nutrition.html
http://www.raot.org/information/nutrition.htm

About the Author:
Kim Bloomer is a natural pet care educator helping pet owners learn to care for their pets through natural, holistic means. Disease prevention is her goal to help pet owners lower their pet care costs and extend the lives of their pets. Visit her website <a target="_new" href="http://www.aspenbloompetcare.com">Aspenbloom Pet Care</a> and her dog's blog barkin' about natural pet care from a canine perspective <a target="_new" href="http://www.bark-n-blog.com">Bark 'N' Blog</a>

Look for Kim's new book on natural dog health with Dr. Jill Elliot, DVM due for release spring 2006.

How to Feed and Care for Orphaned Kittens

2009-01-29T22:31:00.000-08:00

Over the last 15 years, I have raised nine orphaned kittens. Four of them were two weeks old when their mother was killed; three others were only hours old when their mother died; two more kittens fell out of the nest in our barn when they were only a day old.

Raising motherless kittens is not a difficult process, but it does require patience, time and plenty of TLC.

Here are some tips to help you raise your orphaned kittens:

1. Make a nest.

Normally, a mother cat spends many hours a day in the nest with her kittens, which helps her babies stay warm. Keeping the kittens warm is important because if they're not warm enough, they won't want to eat, and in fact, all of their bodily functions will slow down.

To keep your orphaned kittens warm, make a nest in a small box and line it with towels or old t-shirts or sweatshirts to help the babies conserve their body heat. Put a towel over the box to keep out the light. Female cats choose nests that are dark. If you don't have a heat lamp, use a small 40-watt desk lamp and place it several feet above the box to help keep the kittens warm.

If the box is big enough, you can also use a jug or another large container filled with hot water to keep the babies warm. Place the jug in the box and then make a nest with towels beside it. Refill the jug when it cools off. You can use a quart jar as a "hot water bottle" too except that a quart jar cools off very quickly.

2. Use an eyedropper or a syringe to feed the kittens.

The first time I raised orphaned kittens, I discovered that the small nursing bottles available at vet clinics were too big. The kittens couldn't get their mouths around the nipples. So, at first, for newborn kittens, I used an eyedropper. As the kittens grew bigger, a syringe worked very well, the kind of syringe for giving injections (without the needle of course!). I started out with the 3 cc size and used larger syringes when the kittens grew bigger. The tip of a syringe is about the size of a cat's nipple, and my kittens eventually sucked hard enough on the end of the syringe to draw the plunger down by themselves. Check with your vet clinic to see if any used syringes are available or to see if you can buy new syringes from the clinic.

A word of caution: Whether you're feeding with an eyedropper or a syringe, be careful to give only a few drops at a time. My veterinarian told me that if the kittens were given too much formula at once (more than they could swallow), they might inhale it. Inhaling formula will make your kittens much more susceptible to pneumonia.

Along the way, I have also discovered that it is best to feed the kittens as much as they want to eat. They will settle down and sleep until the next feeding if they are getting enough to eat. Tiny kittens will start out taking maybe 1 CC at a time. As they grow bigger, they will eat around 12 CCs at a time (usually in several different helpings).

Kittens learn very quickly that food comes from the syringe you hold in your hand. If you are having trouble getting them to take the formula from the syringe, let nuzzle in the palm of your hand for a few seconds or let them suck on your fingers. Then introduce the syringe and let them suck on it while you very slowly press the plunger down.

3. Feed the kittens KMR or kitty formula that you have mixed yourself.

KMR, the canned cat milk replacer, is available at most vet clinics in either a premixed or dry form. It is specifically formulated for kittens to provide all the nutrients they need. Follow the directions on the label. The amount to feed is determined by body weight. My newborn kittens weighed three ounces each, and for the first several days, they only needed a half an eyedropper of KMR at a time.

My vet clinic also gave me a recipe for "kitten formula." After the first can of KMR, this is what all of my kittens have been raised on.

Here is the recipe for Kitten Formula

1 cup whole milk

1 tablespoon white corn syrup

1 egg yolk

a pinch of salt

Mix in a blender and mix it up far enough in advance so the bubbles will have time to dissipate.

Warm over medium heat. Heat the formula so it feels slightly warm to the touch. All of my kittens have refused to swallow the formula if it was too cold or too warm. The same was true for KMR.

4. Feed your kittens on a regular schedule three times a day.

Mother cats nurse their kittens every couple of hours. The veterinarian I consulted cautioned me not to feed them that often. "They won't eat well and you'll get frustrated and they'll get frustrated and it will be harder on everybody," he said. He was right. Feeding the kittens three times per day worked out very well.

5. Groom your kittens with a warm, wet washcloth and help them to empty their bladders and their bowels.

Young kittens are unable to empty their bladders or move their bowels, so you'll have to help them. Use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe under their tails until they have emptied their bladders and/or moved their bowels. Be prepared to use as many as four washcloths for each kitten. If they only have to empty their bladders, you won't need that many. If they have to empty their bowels, look out -- it could get messy! Smaller washcloths that you can wring out with one hand while you hold onto a squirming kitten with the other work best. I put the washcloths in a pail of warm water and put the pail where I can reach it easily.

Young kittens also do not know how to groom themselves, and after a day or two of eating kitten formula, they become sticky from the formula that inevitably dribbles down their chins. From time to time, use a warm, wet washcloth to wipe off the formula, but be careful not to get the kittens TOO wet or it will be hard for them to stay warm.

6. Provide a litter pan when they're four weeks old.

Cats have a strong instinct to use material that they can scratch around in when they have to empty their bladders and move their bowels. By the time the kittens are four weeks old, they will already be thinking in this direction and providing them with a litter pan will help them get the idea. You might still have to assist them with a washcloth for a while, but it won't be long before they are using the litter pan.

Kitty litter in an aluminum pie plate works well to start out. As the kittens grow bigger, use a bigger container for a litter box.

7. Start feeding solid food when the kittens are about six weeks old.

Kittens that are raised by their mothers probably will start eating sooner than six weeks, but you will be able to provide more milk than their mothers would have available.

When your kittens have gotten their teeth, you can begin feeding them solid food. If you want to feed dry food, a good quality kitten chow will work fine. Kitten chow has all of the nutrients and protein that they need to keep growing. Kitten chow also is made in tiny kitten-bite-sized pieces. To tempt their appetites and to give them a "treat," you can also try a little canned kitty food. Be sure to provide fresh water for your kittens to drink, as well. And until the kittens are eating solid food regularly, supplement their caloric intake with kitten formula. By this time, you won't have to feed them with a syringe. You can put the formula into a small saucer, and once they discover where it is and what it is, they will drink by themselves.

8. Be prepared to be surprised and amazed.

Kittens grow very quickly, and on some days, you will think they are growing right before your very eyes.

Kittens get their eyes open when they're about 10 days old.

They will start purring when they are as young as 6 days old.

Kittens will start other "kitty behaviors" such as shaking their heads, attempting to groom and lifting a hind food to scratch behind their ears when they are between two to three weeks old.

Young kittens will sometimes get the hiccups (!) while you are feeding them.

Young kittens are like baby humans, in a way. Their days consist of eating, sleeping and emptying their bowels and bladders. After the kittens have gotten enough to eat and have had their bodily functions taken care of, when you put them back in the "nest," they will sleep or rest quietly until you are ready to feed them again. If they are restless and crying and meowing, they might need a little more to eat, or they might have to empty their bladders or move their bowels, or they might feel cold.

As the kittens grow older, they will be awake for longer periods of time and will eventually start playing with each other.

By the time the kittens are four weeks old, you will most likely have to move them into a bigger box, if not sooner, because the first one will be too small and they will know how to get out on their own!

If you have any questions concerning the raising of orphaned kittens, you can e-mail me at <a href="mailto:bigpines@ruralroute2.com">bigpines@ruralroute2.com</a>

*************

? 2004 LeAnn R. Ralph

About The Author

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books: *Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)* (trade paperback) and *Preserve Your Family History (A Step-by-Step Guide for Writing Oral Histories)* (e-book; 66 pages). To read sample chapters and to sign up for the FREE! monthly newsletter, Rural Route 2 News & Updates, visit - <a href="http://ruralroute2.com" target="_new">http://ruralroute2.com</a>

Sugar Gliders: Tiny Acrobats

2009-01-29T18:40:00.000-08:00

In the last decade or so, the popularity of sugar gliders as pets has grown considerably. The small size of these furry acrobats, their personalities, their plush fur, their large eyes, their agility and their ability to bond closely with humans have attracted legions of new sugar glider devotees.

What is a sugar glider and where did they originally come from? Sugar gliders are small marsupials and members of the possum family. They are found in Australia, Tasmania, Indonesia, and New Guinea. Their scientific name is Petaurus breviceps. Most sugar gliders these days are captive-bred and not wild-caught.

Like their larger marsupial cousins, kangaroos, sugar gliders have a pouch where their infants grow and develop. Their young are called "joeys," as are the young of kangaroos. You may come across the term OOP while researching sugar gliders on the internet. OOP means "out-of-pouch" and it indicates how long the joey has been completely out of his mother's pouch. Joeys are ready to go to a new home at approximately 8 weeks OOP.

Sugar gliders are approximately chipmunk-sized, measuring about 9 to 12 inches long (including their long tail), and they weigh about 3 to 6 ounces as adults. Their normal color is steel gray to brownish with a black stripe down the back, but selective breeding in captivity has brought out other color variations, including albinos. In captivity, they can live as long as 15 years, although 8 to 12 years is more usual.

One of the most distinguishing features of sugar gliders is a thin membrane, called a patagium, that stretches between their front and rear legs, much like the more familiar flying squirrels of North America. This is what allows them to glide from tree to tree. When they glide, the skin spreads out, making sugar gliders look like furry kites! When the sugar glider is sitting, the patagium looks like ruffled furry skin, shaped somewhat like the edge of lasagna noodles.

Their tail is not prehensile, unlike their more familiar American opossum cousins. That means that sugar gliders cannot grasp, grip and hang from their tails. Instead, the tail is used as a balancing and stabilizing tool, especially while gliding.

Sugar gliders are nocturnal, which means they are active at night. They have very large (relative to their size) eyes, which help them see at night. They also have large ears, an obvious benefit to an animal who is both preyed-upon and a predator. Those big ears allow them to hear even the smallest sound.

Sugar gliders have fixed teeth, incisors, molars, and premolars. You should not trim your sugar glider's teeth. Unlike some species, such as guinea pigs, their teeth do not continue to grow once mature. If a tooth falls out, it is not replaced. Wild gliders chew on branches and in the process, clean their teeth. Gliders in cages will also chew on branches.

Sugar gliders have 5 toes on their front feet. Each toe ends with a very sharp claw that helps them land when they glide. Those claws also make gliders very agile climbers. Their hind feet also have 5 toes, but one of them is an enlarged, clawless opposable toe. An opposable toe means that they can use that toe to grip things, much as humans' opposable thumbs allow us to do the same.

Why are they called "sugar gliders"? In the wild, sugar gliders eat, as part of their diet, manna (a crusty sugar left where sap flowed from a tree trunk or branch) and honeydew (an excess sugar produced by sap-sucking insects). In captivity, sugar gliders have a fondness for sweet foods. They will eat too many sweets if allowed, so sweet foods must be rationed.

In the wild, sugar gliders nest in holes of trees in colonies of 7 to 15 members and have been observed gliding as far as 300 feet! The ability to glide is one of the most amazing features of sugar gliders, and one of the things that makes them such special pets. Teaching your sugar glider to glide to you is very rewarding!

Sugar gliders are social animals, which means they live in groups. They get along with and love the company other sugar gliders, and many sugar glider owners choose to have more than one glider. It is their social nature that allows them to develop strong bonds with their human owners. But it is also that social nature that creates their need for attention from their owners. Sugar gliders are not the kind of pet that can be left for long periods of time without any attention from their owners. The more time you spend with your sugar glider, the more he will become bonded with you.

Many sugar glider owners bond with their new gliders by carrying them around in a bonding pouch for several hours a day while the glider sleeps. Sugar gliders are sometimes called "pocket pets" because they will often curl up in your pocket and go to sleep!

Diet and housing are perhaps the two most important factors in deciding whether a sugar glider is the right pet for you. Sugar gliders require a varied diet consisting of a protein source (meat, insects, etc.), a fruit and/or vegetable source, and a supplement of calcium. There are commercial sugar glider dry and soft-pellet foods available, but it is not recommended that you feed your sugar glider a diet consisting solely of these commercial foods. Sugar gliders require fresh food sources in addition to any commercial food. Calcium is also crucial to their diet, and there are a number of products on the market that will allow you to easily add calcium to your sugar glider's diet.

Sugar gliders require as tall a cage as possible. They feel safer up high because they are normally tree-dwellers. 30 inches tall is usually the bare minimum for a sugar glider cage, but most breeders and sugar glider experts recommend cages 4 feet tall or higher. Many sugar glider owners buy flight cages designed for finches and other small birds. The flight cages are tall enough and roomy enough for a sugar glider. It is also recommended that sugar glider owners permit their gliders supervised play time in a glider-safe room for at least several hours a day.

Although sugar gliders are loving, affectionate and adorable, it is recommended that an adult closely supervise any young children around sugar gliders.

The cost of a sugar glider is approximately $150 to $250. If the glider must be shipped to you via airplane, there will be an additional cost. Certain desirable color variations can raise the price of a sugar glider considerably.

Miles Fowler is the author of Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide , a comprehensive book for both novice and experienced sugar glider owners. Learn more at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.sugargliderauthority.com/">http://www.sugargliderauthority.com</a>

Lets Get Clear On Proper Dog Care

2009-01-29T18:30:00.001-08:00

Whether you're a new dog owner or have had dogs around you for many years, learning about proper dog care is essential if you're to give your dog the greatest possible chance to enjoy a long and healthy life. The most basic area of dog care is feeding. Unfortunately, many dog owners believe that as long as their dog is being given enough food, everything's ok.

Too many dogs suffer from brittle bones, bad teeth and joint problems due to being fed the wrong kind of food and therefore not receiving the nutrients that are necessary for them to grow and maintain healthy bones, muscles and teeth. Foods that contain artificial colorants and preservatives often lead to allergies developing and feeding a dog on raw meat alone simply won't cover his daily calcium needs. A dry food that's specially formulated to cover the nutritional needs of your dog depending on his age and level of activity is always the best choice. Cheap foods may seem like a good alternative but are often the most expensive choice in the long run. Consider that the dog will generally need more of the cheaper varieties as much of what's in these foods is 'padding' and that the padding will just lead to him having more bowel movements than would otherwise be necessary. Grooming is an important area of your dog's care.

All dogs, regardless of their coat type, should be groomed at least once a week. Obviously, some breeds will need daily grooming but even flat coated breeds, like Rottweilers and Labradors should be given weekly grooming sessions. During the grooming session, utilize the time to check for any other health problems that may be affecting your dog. His skin should be checked for signs of sores or dryness; his ears should be checked for inflammation or pus; his legs and tail should be checked for any damage; and his body should be checked for unexpected lumps and bumps. If fleas or ticks are found on the body, these should be treated immediately. Ticks can be removed by covering the body in Vaseline so that the tick comes to the surface to breath; fleas can be dealt with by using special preparations available from your local pet shop or veterinary surgery.

Regular exercise is, of course, important to your dog who should be walked at least once a day, preferably twice. Don't just stick to roads as your dog will enjoy being able to run and play, and vary your route so that he doesn't become bored by his exercise. Get to know your dog's routines. That way, if you notice any ongoing changes you'll be able to contact your vet for advice. It's always better to make one call too many than to ignore a problem because they rarely disappear without treatment.

Copyright2005 Aki Desorcy Aki Desorcy is the Author of <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-treats-n-dog-care-tips.com">http://www.dog-treats-n-dog-care-tips.com</a> Visit Today And Get A Free fun ebook from Aki. You may use this article as long as the resource box is not removed And the back link is made live on your site.

Are Your Fish Sick?

2009-01-29T17:40:00.000-08:00

Keeping a fish tank is a wonderful and relaxing hobby, but it can turn stressful if your fish start to die off. The most common cause of fish disease is poor water quality so it is vital that you perform regular maintenance on the tank, making sure you do a partial water change periodically and clean out any waste or uneaten food so it does not decay and poison the water.

Many fish disease can be halted if you provide treatment as soon as you see any signs of your fish being sick. Therefore, it is important that you monitor your fish each day to see if there are any signs of illness.

Some common symptoms of disease are listed below.

White dots ? sometimes fuzzy looking, almost like grains of salt on your fish. This disease is called Ichthyophthirius), or simply Ich. It is a rather common disease and is caused by poor water quality or can effect your fish when it's immune system is not functioning up to par due to stress. It can be treated easily if you catch it in time. There is a special solution you can buy at the pet store to medicate your tank and, hopefully, get rid of this problem.

Gray patches on the skin, looks cottony and can be around the gills. This is a fungus also caused by excess fish waste and food decaying in the bottom of the tank. You can buy treatment for it and it should clear up easily unless you have let it go too far. In the future remember to clean the tank each week so you do not have a reoccurrence.

If your fish seem like they are gasping for air, this could be simply due to lack of oxygen in the water and not necessarily a disease. You could add an airstone to see if that helps the problem. Make sure you do not overcrowd the tank with too many fish.

If you see your fish scraping itself agains the bottom of the tank or the decorations, it's possible that he has a parasite called Flukes. These attack the gills and skin and are rather difficult to get rid of once your tank is infected. Again, poor water quality will make this much worse. They do sell medication for the tank and you may be able to clear it up if you treat the tank at the first sign of trouble.

Rotting fins are sometimes seen if the fish is under stress and also if the water quality is substandard. It is a bacteria that is attacking the fins and you must treat the tank at the first sign of this problem. If possible, isolate the affected fish to another tank to prevent the bacteria from spreading.

To insure that you always have healthy fish, you should keep the tank clean and religiously perform partial water changes. This will not only keep your fish happy but will make for a better looking tank as well!

Lee Dobbins is a pet lover and owner of <a href="http://www.fish-tank-guide.com" target="_blank">Fish Tank Guide.com</a> where you can learn to setup your freshwater aquarium. Visit the site and learn more about <a href="http://www.fish-tank-guide.com/fish-disease.html" target="_blank">fish disease</a>.

Is Your Dog In Pain Without You Realising?

2009-01-29T16:10:00.000-08:00

A dog that is feeling pain can often be highly unpredictable. When you handle a dog in that you suspect to be in pain, you should always proceed with great care.

If your dog has been involved in an accident, he may be badly affected by shock as well as pain. Even the most laid back dog may bite under these circumstances.

Traffic Accidents.

If he has the misfortune to be involved in an accident, always bear in mind that he will be in shock and distressed. It is important to consider this when handling him to avoid being bitten.

?If he runs away, try to catch him, but do not chase after it if possible. Once the dog is distressed, avoid crowding around him. Instead, crouch down and speak soothingly to him in a quiet voice to reassure him. You must not give him any reason to panic.

?See if he will allow you to stroke his head, and then gently take hold of his collar, talking in a soft voice throughout. If you startle him, then he's likely to react aggressively.

?He may be trembling as the result of shock and possibly the pain of any underlying injury. This is quite normal.

?Do not try to examine him at the roadside. Instead, take him to the local vet's surgery, so that he can be thoroughly examined. Lift him up very carefully, in case he reacts aggressively.

?If he's not wearing a collar, loop a tie or even a pair of tights to form a temporary lead. Dogs that appear seemingly unhurt may be masking serious injuries.

Recognising Pain.

Dogs are relatively stoic in terms of dealing with pain: pain would have left their ancestors vulnerable to attack, so suffering in silence may be instinctive behaviour for him.

It's always important to observe him if he appears to be in pain as closely as possible to try to locate the source of the discomfort.

If he pays particular attention to one area of his body by licking or scratching at it, you should consult you vet.

Other signs of pain to be aware of include limping, excessive panting, aggression when touched, and changes in behaviour with no apparent cause.

Arthritis is common in older dogs and you may have to watch for subtle changes over time such as reluctant to go for a walk, and any difficulties getting up from a lying position.

Amy Howells is the owner of a website dedicated to teaching you the short-cuts to <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-owner.net">dog training</a>.

You can also sign up to a free e-course and discover the astonishing short-cut secrets to <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-owner.net">dog obedience training</a>

Is Pet Insurance Worth It?

2009-01-29T09:50:00.000-08:00

Many pet owners often wonder if it's worth it to purchase pet insurance. The way I see it, there are two main considerations, your opinion when it comes to risk-taking and the expected health of your pet.

Are you a risk-taker or are you conservative? If you are a risk-taker when it comes to insurance and would be okay covering any health-related costs yourself, you shouldn't bother getting pet insurance. Right or wrong, this is what most pet owners do. However, if you are conservative, and want the peace of mind knowing that most major health costs you incur for your pet would be covered, pet insurance might be right for you!

The second consideration is the expected health of your pet. Of course, it's impossible to predict with any level of precision how healthy your pet will be, but if you have carefully researched the lineage of your puppy, kitten or foal, and have sound information about the health of the lines, then that's valuable information for you to use when making this decision.

Next, you might be wondering how pet insurance works. It's pretty simple. You'd pay a monthly insurance premium for your pet, which could be as low as $10 per month (but usually higher). Some plans cover routine care as well as accidents and illnesses, while others only cover accidents and illnesses (the later would be cheaper). When your pet receives veterinary care, you'd submit the bill to the insurance company for reimbursement. Based on the plan you purchase, you'd be reimbursed a percentage of the total cost minus any deductible. Not every procedure is covered, so check out your policy carefully.

With the rising costs of pet healthcare and with the extremes that many of us would go to for our pets, pet insurance is becoming very popular with pet owners.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.thepetman.com">http://www.thepetman.com</a>

Toby ? My Whirling Twirling Sheltie

2009-01-29T09:30:00.000-08:00

Five years ago this August a funny little puppy came to live in our home.

He was tiny, blue-gray and white colored coat, skinny tail that hurt when it hit you and the biggest bat ears I'd ever seen on a puppy. There was one other oddity his eyes were two different colors, one blue one brown.

This little guy's energy level was amazing; he ran and bounced like there were springs attached to the pads of his feet. He made us laugh from the moment he walked through the front door.

However the reality of having a new puppy soon set in, keep in mind we had not done this for fifteen years. Prior to Toby's arrival we had been blessed with a wonderful Golden Retriever named Beau. Unfortunately after fifteen years of love and companionship he left us due to a long illness.

Getting back to the new puppy for about the first year I awoke each morning between 4:00 ? 4:30am, walked around the yard in the freezing cold ? it was October when this little furbaby came to live with us ? then slept in a chair with my new little buddy.

In the end the interrupted sleep, housebreaking and everything else that come with a new puppy was well worth it.

Toby has grown into a beautiful, absolutely handsome dog ? Oh, in case I didn't mention it, he is a Blue Merle Shetland Sheepdog ? he has brought so much joy and laughter to our home, but most importantly he helped fill a void in my heart that I really believed would be there forever.

He is such a wonderful friend. Every morning he is waiting for me when I come down the stairs - he's afraid of stairs and will not go up or down - sits next to me while watching TV and lays in his bed right next to my desk keeping me company while using the computer.

I'm also kept informed of anything that happens to be going on - ringing phone, Squirrels in the yard, passing cars and trucks, timer on the oven going off.

You may be wondering why I titled this story My Whirling Twirling Sheltie. For those of you lucky enough to share your lives with these gorgeous little dogs, you already know the answer. For those of you not familiar with Shelties here is why.

Shelties are very happy, vocal, lovable dogs that smile ? yes, they smile ? because of this they get excited about almost everything, when this happens they spin around in circles.

It's really amazing to watch; you wonder sometimes how it is that they don't bang into something or why they don't fall over from being dizzy. This trait is so common it's even got a name "The Sheltie Spin".

If you are considering getting a puppy, check out these fantastic bundles of fluff. They are compact in size, extremely intelligent, they love to learn and pick up new commands quite fast. However in my opinion their best quality is their loyalty, their love is so unconditional; it really is a wonderful thing.

This is a share ware article. Give this article away for free on your site, or include it as part of any paid package as long as the entire article is left intact including this notice. Copyright ? 2005 Bonnie Carrier.

Bonnie P. Carrier is the creator of Savvy Home Decorating & Savvy Outdoor Decorating. She is the mother to two grown daughters and a very spoiled 4yr old Blue Merle Sheltie named Toby. Stop by for information and ideas for both inside and outside your home.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.savvy-home-decorating.com">http://www.savvy-home-decorating.com</a>

<a target="_new" href="http://www.savvyoutdoordecorating.com">http://www.savvyoutdoordecorating.com</a>

Dog Training Collars -- Proper Selection Leads To Training Success

2009-01-29T07:50:00.000-08:00

The proper selection of a training collar can have a significant impact on the success of any dog training program. Most new dog trainers make the mistake of choosing a dog collar that does not allow for adequate control during the training sessions.

During my nearly four years of working with dogs, I have seen dog collars in numerous sizes and shapes. From head leaders to pronged choke collars, the choices available to dog owners are endless. However, in my training experience, I have not seen a dog training collar as effective as the classic choke collar.

The basic choke collar is an effective training tool that can be used on almost any size dog (for very small dogs, a nylon dog collar might be preferred). When used properly, the correction and response of the dog is almost immediate.

The key to using a choke collar effectively is to keep the dog collar loose when the dog is exhibiting proper behavior. For example, if the dog is heeling without pulling ahead, the choke collar should remain loose. If the dog begins to pull ahead, a quick "pop" or tightening of the collar will teach the dog that unwanted behavior has occurred. As soon as the dog's behavior has corrected, the collar is once again loosened.

By using the tightening & loosening technique, the dog quickly learns to associate good behavior with a loose collar. If the collar were to remain constantly tightened, the dog would only learn to fight against the choking feeling.

Regardless of which collar type you choose, it is imperative that the dog collar fit properly and give you, the trainer, maximum control over the dog.

For nearly four years, David Dunlap has been working & training dogs from puppyhood to more advanced levels. For more information on dog collars, visit <a target="_new" href="http://dogcollarinfo.com">http://dogcollarinfo.com</a>

Lower Your Veterinarian Costs And Increase the Longevity of Your Pets Lives

2009-01-28T02:50:00.001-08:00

What does doing natural preventative care mean? I thought vaccinating, prevention medicines, and premium kibble was natural preventative care. Hardly.

Unfortunately the pharmaceutical companies and the pet food industry have really pulled the wool over everyone's eyes -but the wool is coming off! People are frustrated with the way traditional care has let them down and are seeking alternatives to help them not only give their pets more quality of life but longer lives. It seems as though we barely get our pets to a "settled" place in our lives before they're gone. It doesn't have to be like this.

Please don't misunderstand, mainstream care does have its place but it should not be the only choice people and their pets have. In fact, I think it's the imbalanced lean towards allopathic medicine rather than including homeopathic and naturopathic and alternative therapies that is a big part of the problem. At some point where do we stop and say, what happened to "first do no harm"?

Okay, so let's start with what preventative, natural, holistic care means with a definition of the words holistic, preventative and natural which I obtained from my American Heritage Dictionary: 1. Holistic: ?2) emphasizing the importance of the whole and the interdependence of its parts. 2. Natural: 1) present in or produced by nature; not artificial or man-made; 3) pertaining to or produced solely by nature or the expected order of things 3. Preventive: 1) designed or used to prevent or hinder; acting as an obstacle; precautionary. 2) Thwarting or warding off illness or disease. When we put all these definitions together: the whole of the parts working interdependently, without artificial ingredients or synthetics, in the natural order of things you will then ward off illness or disease! Now that we have the definition of natural pet care in place, let's go deeper into the how to do this and thereby lowering the costs of your pet care and increase the longevity of your pets lives.

The first place to always start is with nutrition and that starts with what you are feeding your pets. My initial answer will be as species specific as you can get in a domestic setting. For dogs and cats that means that meat needs to be the primary ingredient of their food. Not kibble. Kibble isn't fit for anything or anyone to eat. There a couple I will recommend in the light of a very reluctant pet owner not being able to stomach the idea of feeding raw meat to their dog or cat, but I will say that as long as you adhere to kibble your pets will experience the problems associated with food that their bodies weren't designed to digest.

There are many different forms of feeding natural for example in dogs you can choose a B.A.R.F. diet which translates to Biologically Appropriate Raw Food and can also stand for Bones and Raw Food. This diet consists of all raw meats, veggies, dairy products, and nuts. Some adhere to strictly feeding raw meat. Some to a cooked diet of meat and vegetables. I think that you've got to decide what will work in your household and do that and any of these, including the cooked diet is far better than any form of a kibble diet. Think of animals in the wild ? they do not get kibble or pellets. Our domestic pets don't need those things either!

I feed my dog a cooked meat diet along with a natural whole food liquid supplement. I also use essential oils to thwart parasites and help with the pain in his forelegs. He came to us as a very abused, starved, neglected nearly 5 month old puppy. Through trial and error we've found what keeps him healthy, strong and happy and he is completely natural. We do homeopathic for heartworm prevention. He actually runs with me and traditionally his breed is not a running breed ? or so it's thought! So you also need to include some precautionary nutrition along with natural feeding. For horses you always need to be concerned with worms but there are natural ways like using food grade (ONLY use food grade) diatomaceous earth ?this also works well in cats, dogs and other warm-blooded animals but I prefer to use essential oils in my dog.

Next I would consider why vaccinating seems to be so important to your pets health. Let me give you just a few examples of why that could be the very thing that is harming your pets rather than helping them (information from www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com):

"Routine" vaccination has adverse side-effects, either short or long term. With vaccines that are repeated year after year, the frequency and severity of these side-effects in our pets has increased dramatically. Most of the problems involve the immune system. After all, the immune system is what vaccines are designed to stimulate. But they do so in a very unnatural way that can overwhelm and confuse the immune system." Donna Starita Mehan DVM. I believe that Dr. Mehan is saying here that while vaccinations stimulate the immune system and that is supposed to rev it up, the vaccine actually not only does this unnaturally as Dr. Mehan stated but it also causes so much confusion in the immune system that much more harm than good is done by vaccinating.

Dr. Ronald D. Schultz, Ph.D..- "Annual revaccination provides no benefit and may increase the risk for adverse reactions. The percentage of vaccinated animals (those vaccinated only as puppies) protected from clinical disease after challenge with canine distemper virus, canine parvovirus and canine adenovirus in the study was greater than 95%." Current and Future Canine and Feline Vaccination Programs. Dr. Ronald Schultz is a Professor and Chair of the Department of Pathobiological Sciences at the School of Veterinary Medicine, UW-Madison. Schultz, R.D. - Current & Future Canine & Feline Vaccination Programs. Vet Med 3: No. 3, 233-254, 1998 more. A chart provided in the report shows immunity levels for all vaccines currently given to dogs lasting a minimum of 5 years with most lasting 7-15 years! Don Hamilton, DVM -Yearly "boosters" are unnecessary, provide no benefit if given (will not increase immunity). Thus boosters are either a legal issue (Rabies) or a manipulation issue (inducing clients to come in for examination rather than directly suggesting an examination). Charles E Loops DVM - "Homeopathic veterinarians and other holistic practitioners have maintained for some time that vaccinations do more harm than they provide benefits. Vaccinations represent a major assault on the body's immune system.... Vaccine induced chronic diseases range from life-threatening conditions such as auto-immune crises to conditions destroying the quality of life of an animal as in chronic skin allergies."

These are just a few examples with veterinarians leading the way in sharing this information which I find interesting since vaccinations and surgeries are their bread and butter. A few of the holistic/homeopathic vets I know started in mainstream medicine and became frustrated and moved into the holistic arena so they could do their patients the most good. Feed correctly with proper back up supplementation and your pets will have natural immunities that protect them naturally from disease.

Another thing to do is to keep your pets stimulated mentally through exercise, play and training. Animals love to have a job and they love to be useful. The key to a good interaction here is training according to the natural interaction of the animal you own. What does that mean? For a dog it means approaching him or her using the "pack" mentality. For the horse it means approaching the horse the way another horse would. It all makes common sense really. Good practical common sense, do away with all these synthetics, using the natural order of things, and all the parts working together means you don't treat an illness, you treat the pet. I like what I saw Dr. Shawn Messonnier write recently to one of the groups I belong to, "I don't treat crystals in the urine, I treat the pet". That's what holistic means: all the parts working together interdependently. So not treating the symptoms but caring for the entire animal is the answer to lowering your veterinarian costs and increasing the longevity of your pets lives.

Article originally published on and for http://www.Suite101.com under the Holistic Pet Care topic.

Kim Bloomer is a preventative pet care consultant. She offers natural products and a business opportunity. She is partnered with a dog breeder and internationally known master dog trainer in their online audio pet care classes, All God's Creatures. Visit her website for details <a target="_new" href="http://www.aspenbloompetcare.com">Aspenbloom Pet Care</a> and her dog's blog <a target="_new" href="http://www.bark-n-blog.com">Bark 'n' Blog</a>

The Fun of Do It Yourself Snake and other Reptile Cages

2009-01-27T15:40:00.001-08:00

Are you nuts? You think banging your finger with a hammer is fun? No, I don't. But building your own snake and other reptile cages can be a fun and rewarding experience.

Before you even start, it is important to spend some time planning your reptile enclosure and carefully examining at how other cages are manufactured. Check out all of the parts, examine the locks, joins and vents. How is the lighting done? What about the heating?

Use this information to design your own cages, based on the needs of your reptile and its size. Work out the size of cage you require and design it accordingly, altering the basic designs as needed to suit your purposes.

Building something yourself is a great feeling. I personally enjoy the process of shopping for materials and deciding which is best for the purpose.

There are quite a few questions to consider, such as:

? what should I make the base from
? what is the best way to make a vent
? how do you make the base water resistant
? what sort of lock should I use
? what sort of door should I use and how do I make it
? what is the best light fitting
? How should I heat it

Getting the materials home and the anticipation of starting your reptile cage is an exciting time. The will be frustrations to overcome, problems to solve but the feeling of accomplishing and achievement you finally get from building something yourself is fantastic.

Every time you go into the room and see the cages you made you can feel good about them. Sure, you will sometimes get a bit picky about the smaller details. What could you have done better, what if you had done this here etc. ? well maybe next time.

Some people even use the skills they learn to make cages for other people and make a bit of money. Once you have the skills and tools it is easy. Even if you don not have all of the tools, there are ways around it. You can go to local cabinet makers when you need something cut to size that is too large for you to handle. They are generally happy to oblige for a small fee and you get a perfectly square piece of timber.

On a final note, making your own cages is a fun and rewarding experience and is recommended it to anyone considering it.

Mark Chapple is the Author of "How to build enclosures for reptiles." Find out how anyone can build reptile cages. Full color pictures, detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions. <a target="_new" href="http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com">http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com</a>

Dog Vomiting? Help Your Dog Now

2009-01-27T09:10:00.001-08:00

In most cases you should not be too concerned about your dog vomiting. If you know that the dog got into something or you changed its diet, you can probably wait 24 hours to see if the vomiting clears up, but only if your dog does not appear lethargic.

<B>You must withhold food for 24 hours</B> and then gradually start a bland diet. If at any time the dog becomes worse please see your veterinarian.

If your dog has been vomiting continually for more than 1 hour or if he has been vomiting on and off for 24 hours, it is severe and you should bring him in to see the doctor.

Vomiting can have lots of causes. Sometimes the cause can be straightforward. An easy indication maybe what was the pet's last meal.

<B> Sometimes the consistency of the vomit may indicate what's wrong.</B>

? Undigested food-1.food poisoning 2. Anxiety, 3.simply overeating

? Strong odor-intestinal obstruction.

If no vomiting occurs in 24 hours, then you can try and give some ice cubes followed by water. If no vomiting occurs, then give a small amount of a bland diet. If the dog continues to vomit, call your veterinarian.

<B>What to do for dog vomiting<B>

1. <B>withholding food for 24 hours.</B>

2. <B>Feed a bland diet</B>, consisting of 2/3 rice, sweet potato or oatmeal and 1/3 of the meal should be well cooked non-fatty meats like chicken.

3. Feed only 1/2 of the normal amount of food at a time. Or you can feed several small meals until the vomiting has subsided.

Find out what additional steps you can take to help your sick dog at <a target="_new" href="http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com">http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com</a>

You can submit a question to the veterinarian by clicking here <a target="_new" href="http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com/askavet.html">http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com/askavet.html</a>

Chris Suckow, DVM, currently lives and works in Los Angeles.

How To Install An Emergency Brake On Your Horse

2009-01-26T19:20:00.001-08:00

Imagine being on a horse and he bolts. You pull those reins to slow him down but it's no use. He resists and the fence posts go whizzing by you as you panic and pray he doesn't shift his bodyweight and you fly off his back into a post.

It's scary to be on a horse that runs on his own volition and can't be slowed down. Many people will sell their horse because they're so scared of that happening again. How do you keep a horse from bolting like that?

There is a way to temper your horse even if he spots something that scares him and he wants to run in fear. I call it, "Installing an emergency brake."

This is done on the ground while you're doing ground training. Every time you work with your horse you should spend a few minutes doing this ? even if you know your horse "gets it." It simply cannot be done enough.

What does it look like when you use the emergency brake on your horse? While you're riding, you reach down to either rein. You tightly grab the rein, slide it up your legs along the seam of your pants up to your hips. At the same time, you are loosely holding the other rein. As you do this, your horse's nose will be pointing back towards his rear end.

Why does this work? Ever try to run forward while looking backwards? Need I say more? (There are exceptions. Some horses are so limber they will run forward with their nose buried in their sides ? but not many)

But you can't simply get on your horse and expect to pull his head back if he takes off. You must do some ground work first. And here's what you do.

Put a halter on your horse and hook a lead rope to the halter. Stand on the left side of your horse. Stand by your horse across from his back leg. Take your right arm and put it over his rump. Next, pull the lead rope towards you and rest your left hand on his back.

At this point your horse will resist some. If he pulls his head forward you hold the lead rope in place. Eventually he will move his head back towards you and give into the pull you have on the lead rope. The second he moves his head back towards you then you release the lead rope tension and praise him. In other words, when you see the lead rope has slack in it because he moved his nose back towards you, then release.

Eventually, you want him to touch his nose to his body. That's the goal you're shooting for because the more his head comes around the better control you will have. Also, there's a second goal you're shooting for. When you pull the lead rope around to bring your horse's head back, you want it to be where you don't pull. He moves his head back for you. As you pull on the lead rope his head moves back with no exertion from you. His head follows. It's called being responsive. This is important because when you're riding your horse and you have to pull his head around you don't want to have a tug of war while you're riding a bolting horse. You want him to automatically do it.

At first your horse won't be able to touch his nose to his body. So you start with small successes. At first you pull his head back towards you until you get resistance. When you do, hold the lead rope tension. Don't make the tension more or less, simply hold it there. The second he looks back toward you more and creates slack in the lead rope, you give him immediate relief and take the tension off the lead rope completely. Then you tell him what a good boy he is. Pet him too. Let him know that's just what you wanted.

As you do this, you will want him to bring his head farther and farther back until he begins to touch his nose to his body. Don't try to get him to touch his nose to his body within the first one or two ground sessions. That's rushing it and you likely won't make it happen. This takes time to get your horse to understand what you want him to do.

Remember to do this on the other side of your horse too. What your horse can do on his left side, he should be able to do on his right side.

When you have your horse touching his nose to his side, then you're ready to get on him and test his emergency brake. Get on your horse and go for a test ride. If he starts to run and you don't want him to, grab a rein and pull his head around. Don't jerk the reins?pull. Then boot him into a circle. When he slows down or stops like you want him to then release the pressure. Remember to do it on the left and right reins.

If your horse doesn't easily touch his nose to his body while riding him, then you need to have him practice it more. Also, before you go riding have him touch his nose a few times on each side with the bit in his mouth. Doing these things will cinch your riding into a pleasant experience.

About The Author

Old Fashioned Flea Control

2009-01-26T17:00:00.001-08:00

Fleas have plagued dogs, cats, and their owners since time began so ways to kill or repel them has been a constant search. Today, with the shake of a can, the spray of a bottle, or a flea dip fleas are more easily controlled. But before these controls were available, pet owners were constantly on the lookout for a better way to free their pets of these disease carrying insects.

The flea can cause many illnesses including anemia, tapeworms, typhus, and skin infections, according to veterinarians. The National Institutes of Health says that bubonic plague was, and still can be, transmitted by fleas. Rocky Mountain Fever and Lyme Disease are the most common illnesses caused by fleas. The last two diseases were thought to be transmitted only by ticks.

Common foods and herbs were used to help keep pets flea- free. Brewer's yeast, sprinkled onto the dog's coat like flea powder is today, was used as a deterrent. Unlike flea powders, it wasn't harmful to the dog if the dog licked the brewer's yeast off. Internally, the yeast fortified the health of the dogs skin because it is high in B-vitamins. Keeping the skin healthy is necessary for good control of fleas.

For more information on flea control:

http://www.apluswriting.net/onlynaturalpetstore/fleacontrol. htm

And more natural pet products for your dog or cat:

http://www.apluswriting.net/onlynaturalpetstore/onlynaturalp etstore.htm

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Author: Marilyn Pokorney Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Website: <a target="_new" href="http://www.apluswriting.net">http://www.apluswriting.net</a>

Guinea Pig History

2009-01-26T15:20:00.001-08:00

Their scientific name is Cavia Tschuldi and their nickname in South America where they were first discovered, is"Cavy. As you might have guessed Guinea Pigs are rodents.

Near the Andes Mountains in Peru over a thousand years ago , some Inca Indians were exploring near the tall grass on the edge of a forest, when they found dozens of little hairy creatures scampering around.

The fat little animals when they bent down to pick them up did not bite or even seem to mind . The Incas soon learned that the cavies or cuy, were wild but safe animals, who liked to hide in tall grass away from the hungry owls and other predators that they were easy prey to.

They searched out burrows and homes made by rabbits or snakes or other creatures and made these spaces their home. When it was night and dark, they would wander out to find food. Wild guinea pigs live all over South America from Argentina to Columbia. Some scientists say that the Inca Indians were the first to tame the wild guinea pigs, but other scientists think that even prehistoric people as far back as 5000 B.C. were keeping guinea pigs as pets and raising them as a source of food.

If you would like to know more about guinea pigs as pets,why not get a copy of my book at

<a target="_new" href="http://www.mysecretsrevealed.com">http://www.mysecretsrevealed.com</a>

or if you are interested in recieving my guinea pig newsletter just send me an email with newsletter in subject at graeme@mysecretsrevealed.com

Why Build Your Own Reptile Cage?

2009-01-26T07:20:00.001-08:00

When I first started my interest in reptiles I was only young. At that stage of my life I had little or no skills and did not understand the requirements of the wonderful creatures so I did not keep them effectively. We just kept the local lizards, so the cage temperature was not an issue.

I rekindled my desire later in life but I also had mortgages, the cost of raising a family and the daily costs of living to contend with. A reptile was expensive enough, without adding the costs of retail cages and accessories. So I built my own. It saved me a lot of money.

You do need some basic tools but the money you save by making it yourself will allow you to purchase some of those tools that help make the cage. The remainder can go into accessories so that for the cost of a basic cage with nothing else you can make a cage, get some tools and the cage accessories and still have money left over. That's a big difference.

Many people have materials about the house. If you are going to make your own cages you can save even more money by using bits and pieces or timber you may already have, screws, old glass, hinges, light battens etc. that you already have in the basement or garage.

When upgrading one of my cages recently, I was able to reuse some of the materials and the fittings for use on the new cage. This saved me having to purchase new accessories and materials.

Another benefit is the ability to maintain your own cages. Many of the plastic or moulded cages cannot be fixed once they are broken. With a cage you made yourself you can usually fix broken locks or replace doors (I haven't had to do any of these yet as they are very sturdy).

When you build your own cages you decide how strong it will be and what quality of fitting, glues and materials you will be using. The higher the quality of materials and accessories you use, the better the final cage product. You are not at the mercy of manufacturers saving money by using inferior materials and poor quality fittings.

Another benefit is the ability to customise you cages to suit your purpose. One of my earliest cages was built as a normal cage but by placing a removable divider in the middle it allowed me to re-use the cage when I shipped one of the snakes out. This divider was fitted over the middle of a heat mat, allowing for two reptiles to be housed in the cage. It also had two doors. The cage is now used for another purpose but will soon be empty. The divider can still be placed back in the cage for another small snake and then simply removed as the snake gets larger. Tis snake will finally be moved into an arboreal cage. To purchase a plastic cage with divider that will only be a transient cage before the snake goes into a final cage is an expensive exercise.

If you do need to upgrade again, you have the time to build the final cage as the snake grows.

Making your own cages allows you to build and maintain your reptile cages in a cost effective manner while keeping them comfortable and healthy. You can also expand your collection in an affordable way, making more money available for the reptiles while still getting quality cages.

Mosquitoes Are a Hazard to Your Pets Health Too

2009-01-26T06:40:00.001-08:00

None of us likes to be bitten by mosquitoes and sometimes it is easy to forget that our pets suffer from mosquito bites too.

Mosquitoes feed on blood, and they will take it where they can find it. Only the female bites, the males feed on plant nectar. While the female may have preferred hosts, she must have protein from blood to produce eggs. And, one blood meal is often not enough to produce a clutch of eggs. Often the female will feed, rest to digest the meal and feed again up to three times before she can get enough protein to produce her eggs.

So, each time your pet is outside in mosquito territory, it is a sitting target for a hungry female mosquito that is eager to reproduce.

Many species of mosquitoes will choose birds over humans or pets, but they have even been known to feed on frogs and other reptiles, if that is what they can find for a blood meal.

Most responsible pet owners know of the hazards from mosquito bites associated with heartworm disease in cats and dogs. Mosquitoes carry parasite larvae, which they transmit to your pet once they bite. The parasite larvae then migrate to the heart and major circulatory organs in your pet, where it develops into an adult worm that can reach ten inches in length.

The problem with heartworms is that they can take many years to develop into an adult that can cause symptoms in your cat or dog. Dogs are usually more at risk than cats, simply because they are usually outdoors more often. By the time the symptoms develop, treatment is long and difficult. Sometimes the pet owner is unaware of the problem until the animal simply dies during exertion, a tragic ending that is very preventable.

Protection against heartworms is as easy as a trip to your veterinarian. Many effective medicines, which are given orally, can prevent development of the larvae, if an infected mosquito bites your pet. The biggest failure of these medicines is pet owner default. They must be administered faithfully once per month with no lapse in treatment. And, just because it seems like mosquito season is at bay, don't lapse and forget to give your pet its dose. Many mosquitoes over-winter in protected places and they arouse ready to bite long before you might expect them.

Luckily, it is now possible to get a shot for your pet that will afford protection against heartworms for up to six months. Even diligent and caring pet owners can sometimes forget about the narrow window of opportunity for administering the oral medication. This new advancement spares you and your pet the risky aftermath of those lapses.

Now, pet owners have an even greater concern about mosquito bites to their pets. While rare, West Nile virus has been reported in both dogs and cats. There are very few reported cases of pet fatalities in dogs and cats, but the risk still exists. Instead, most of the time, the animal may test positive for the virus, without having symptoms.

If your pet has West Nile virus, it may have the following symptoms: fever, depression or lethargy, muscle weakness or spasms, impaired coordination, seizures or paralysis. If your pet has these symptoms, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Bird and horse owners should be much more concerned. West Nile virus is primarily fatal to many bird species. Crows, for example, are very susceptible to fatal cases. Sparrows, on the other hand, easily contract it, but have no symptoms. And, migratory birds like sparrows help to continue the spread of the virus because they are highly mobile.

Of those birds that are kept as pets, parrots, cockateels and parakeets are most at risk. The risk factor is lower because they are seldom outside. If your home is well sealed and has good screens, these pets should be easily protected, if kept indoors.

Horse owners are now able to protect their horses with a very effective vaccine. Horses are particularly susceptible to mosquito borne viruses, and it is difficult to keep them away from outdoor exposure, even in barns and stalls. No such vaccine exists for smaller animals.

The same thing that protects you against mosquito diseases also protect your pets. Prevention!

Keep your home and yard mosquito free by being sure that mosquitoes don't have places to breed. Avoid allowing any water to stand in containers, like buckets, birdbaths, pet bowls, gutters, storm drains, and plant saucers. Many mosquitoes need only ? cup of water to breed.

The FDA has traditionally advised keeping your pet indoors around dawn and dusk, because that is when many mosquito species feed. That advice is no longer enough to protect your pet. The Asian tiger mosquito is an aggressive day biter. It was imported to the United States in 1985 and is now found in 30 states. It carries both West Nile virus and heartworm parasites.

Instead, get rid of any possible breeding sites and also get a good pet insect repellant. Mosquito repellants made for humans are not to be used on pets. Never put any repellant on pets that is not DEET free. Instead get a repellant that is made for veterinary use and apply only according to directions. With your pets, you have to assume they may lick treated areas and you can't afford to take a chance that the repellant may be toxic to them.

For example, tea tree oil is a good natural mosquito repellent for humans, but it has proved fatal to some cats that have licked it off of their fur.

And, consider getting a propane powered mosquito trap to reduce mosquito populations in your yard. They are very effective, although expensive, but actually kill hundreds of mosquitoes if used according to the manufacturers directions. Over time these devices can actually decrease mosquito populations.

Mosquitoes are here to stay. Our best defense for our pets is to know how to avoid them, and how to keep our pets safe using the latest scientific advances. And, many of the things we do to protect our pets from mosquito borne diseases are good for us too.

About The Author

Scottie Johnson is a life long mosquito warrior, free lance author and dog lover. For more information about having a mosquito free life, visit her site at <a href="http://www.mosquito-kill-net.com" target="_new">http://www.mosquito-kill-net.com</a>; <a href="mailto:info@www.mosquito-kill-net.com">info@www.mosquito-kill-net.com</a>

Flea Control

2009-01-26T04:50:00.001-08:00

Last summer, we added a new pet to our family - our cat, Ally. She was a sweet, shorthaired, stray kitten that we picked up from a neighbor's house. Ally had one problem though - fleas. She was completely infested with them, which in turn, infested our home with them.

We tried everything to get rid of those pesky blood-suckers, including flea collars, indoor foggers, and bathing her with flea shampoo. And everyone knows how much cats hate water! Nothing that we tried worked. Just when we thought we were rid of them, more would hatch.

We even considered putting Ally back outside, but we decide to try one more thing before resorting to such drastic measures.

We took her to the vet, where we were provided with more effective flea foggers and a flea spray for our home called Siphotrol Plus II. We used these to kill the fleas in our house while Ally was at the vet getting a flea dip. They also treated her with Frontline Plus, which was applied to the back of her neck. Our trip to the vet wound up costing about $150, but it was worth it. We were rid of the fleas, and we were able to keep Ally in the house.

We were instructed to reapply the Frontline Plus monthly, however, we found another product at our local Co-op that is much cheaper than Frontline Plus and seems to work well so far. It is called Flea Halt! and is made by Farnam Pet Products.

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Housebreaking Your Dog-Potty Training Canine Style

2009-01-25T16:50:00.001-08:00

Puppies are a bundle of newfound joy. You've prepared the house, and even bought him a new rubber chew toy. However, with all the joy your new pet brings, he also brings along with him his natural behaviors and instincts. It's now your job to begin training and molding him into the furry companion you've always wanted. It's not quite time for adventure or obedience school. It's time for potty training!

Just for starters, let's reiterate what pet experts back 100% of the time: never hit or abuse your puppy in any way. It will have a detrimental affect on his future behavior, his trust in you, and his ability to socialize with other dogs and humans.

With that said, you should not expect your new dog to be fully housetrained until he's about six months old, especially if you're not home to oversee his training every hour of every day.

There are a couple of different tried and true options to choose from when house training a puppy. One is commonly referred to as the "passive" option, or the newspaper option. The other option is considered the "active" approach, where you attempt to teach your new puppy when and where to control his bowel movements from the confines of a puppy crate.

The newspaper option is great for those with the necessary floor space, workers and/or apartment dwellers. Start out by designating a puppy room. If you don't have the space, and you still want to opt this route, create a room. Choose a small area (perhaps a tiled laundry room) and puppy proof it. In other words, don't allow the puppy access to any cleaners, wires or sharp objects. And, don't put your puppy into a closet or dark room. Be sure the room has windows (which you can crack open for air movement). Line the floor with newspaper. Put his bed, toys, food and water bowl in the room. At first, he'll go to the bathroom all over the place. Give the process plenty of time.

Optimistically, no matter where your puppy eliminates, it will be on the newspaper. Over time he'll slowly choose one spot (most likely based on scent). Then, gradually move the newspapers less and less on the floor until the spot where he usually eliminates is left covered. This process could take a few months. Move the paper inward only an inch or two every couple of days. If your puppy has an accident, remember, it's your fault. Most likely, you've moved the papers too quickly.

Crate training, as stated, is called the "active" approach because you really have to have an open schedule with plenty of patience and fortitude to make it work. Figure that you're going to have to take your dog out of the crate/cage about every forty-five to fifty minutes each hour of the day when you first begin.

If this is all viable, then make sure that you buy a puppy crate and not a dog cage that will be much to big. Buy a puppy cage for a puppy and later a dog cage when he becomes full-grown. Your dog should have enough space to be comfortable when sleeping, but not enough to have room to defecate in an extra corner.

Every forty-five minutes you should take your puppy outdoors on a leash to walk around and hopefully eliminate. He should do so within ten minutes. When he does go, praise the puppy by petting and saying, "Good boy" or "Good" plus his name. Once inside, allow the puppy to have supervised indoor playtime with a treat or two. If the puppy doesn't go to the bathroom outdoors, be sure to put him back in his cage and repeat the process a little later. If the puppy jitters around like he has to go to the bathroom, take him back outdoors. Expect accidents until he learns the procedure.

While both procedures take ample time and patience, they will work. The choice is yours. Give the puppy time to become familiar with his routine, you as his owner and his environment. The best thing to do is to richly award his successful attempts and never scold him for accidents.

Managing Horse Pasture

2009-01-25T15:10:00.001-08:00

A major part of a horse's diet is hay or pasture. A horse weighing 1000 pounds will eat about 500 pounds each month. A horse needs roughly 28 acres of non-irrigated, dryland pasture a year if that is the only source of forage. However, a pasture that is irrigated will grow more forage than dryland pasture, requiring less acreage. The amount of irrigated pasture needed for one horse is roughly 1 to 2 acres.

Two acres of pasture for each horse are recommended. One acre of pasture will provide adequate grazing, but requires more pasture management. Manage your pasture as you would with any crop with soil testing, fertilizing, and managing manure. Horses will not eat trampled grass or grass with manure on it. Horses will also overgraze smaller areas very quickly. Therefore, a combination of pasture and small lot or barn is needed to help minimize overgrazing.

Do not let horses overgraze the pasture as this can cause grass to no longer grow. Keep pasture grass healthy--overgrazed pasture may never recover. To allow for re-growth, leave about 1/3 of the grass uneaten at any given time. The horse can be confined to the lot or barn and only allowed to graze for a few hours a day, reducing damage to a small pasture. Rotational pasture lots are one key to using small acreage pasture space to the fullest potential. Portable electric fencing provides an efficient and economic way to partition you pasture. Over-supplementing your horse with hay and grain will not prevent your horse from overgrazing.

Pasture grazing is not absolutely necessary for a horse. A nice green pasture is not always a reality. Horses can be properly fed without pasture. However, pasture has several advantages as it is the natural feed for horses, reduces the cost of feeding, provides your horse with exercise, and generally speaking, horses are usually healthier when kept outside on pasture.

Establishing and maintaining a productive pasture is not too difficult. A few dollars spent on soil nutrients for your pasture is a good investment. Fertilizer will help your pasture to become more productive and produce more forage. Fertilizer costs will generally be offset from good pasture rotating and from savings in feed costs for hay and grain supplements.

Mowing is also important of pasture management. It minimizes the spread of weeds to help maintain higher quality forage. Mowing weeds before seed heads are produced limits the spread of weeds. Grass should be mowed to 3-4 inches.

No matter how well you manage your pasture, it will most likely thin. To help ensure pasture continues to produce good grass, new forage seed should be spread every year. It is recommended re-seeding be done in the spring or fall. In the spring, wet conditions will allow for germination and growth, but only if it is not too wet or muddy. In the fall, there will be less competition from weeds. Grazing should not be allowed on new grass seedlings for approximately 6 to 8 weeks after emerging from the ground to allow for proper root growth.

Caution! Turning your horse out on green lush pasture before conditioning him to a change in diet is dangerous and can result in sickness or possibly death. Start your horse out slowly by letting him graze for few minutes each day and gradually increase to a few hours each day.

Randall Holman, site owner of Front Range Frenzy and horse enthusiast, is the author of the above article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website: <a href="http://www.frontrangefrenzy.com" target="_blank">http://www.FrontRangeFrenzy.com</a>.

The One-Minute Horse Training Manager

2009-01-25T11:20:00.001-08:00

If your life is so busy you literally only have a minute or two a day to spend with your horse, then here are 5 smart training tips you can use to keep your horse "tuned up" when you have just minutes a day.

Smart Tip #1: Practice Backing Up

Suppose you just fed your horse some hay and he's eating. Assuming you have enough room to get beside him, put your finger into his chest and get him to back up. Getting a horse to back up is a basic and essential lesson horses should know. Plus, when you get a horse to move in a direction you want him to move, you earn respect from him.

Smart Tip #2: Practice Getting His Head Down

Just before you feed your horse approach him. When you get to him pet him a couple times. Then put your thumb and first finger on his poll and push down. Do not increase the pressure of the push. Instead, on a scale of one to ten, push at a one. Then say "head down". If he doesn't drop his head increase the pressure to a two. Then say "head down". Repeat the process increasing the pressure until his head drops.

When his head drops, reward him with a petting above the eyes on the forehead.

Over time, work on getting him to drop his head down where you can easily put on a halter.

Smart Tip #3: Quick Lunge

If you have a minute or two, before you feed your horse slip on a halter with a lead rope. Lunge your horse left and right a few times and get him to back up and come forward. You can accomplish this in just about two minutes.

Smart Tip #4: Pick Up The Feet

Before feeding your horse, go pick up his feet. You should start with the front feet. Remember to reward each time he does what you ask. Then go to the back feet. If your horse is sensitive about picking up his feet you can make amazing breakthroughs over time by doing this in just minutes a day.

Smart Tip #5: Brush Your Horse

Before feeding, approach your horse with a halter and brush in hand. Put on the halter then brush him. You do this because you want him to associate the halter with pleasure and he'll come to you almost every time. Thus, whenever you want to ride or work with him, and you approach with a halter, he's more willing to let you catch him.

About The Author

No, No, No! Drop It, Drop It! Give It To Me Now!

2009-01-25T07:30:00.001-08:00

Puppies can be so exasperating! They know what we want, and what we don't want, yet they continue to push our buttons. Wait a minute! Maybe we can rewire our buttons and bring them out of reach of Puppy! Use the following tips to help prevent Puppy Theft and other hiccups in Puppy's road to adulthood.

SUPERVISE, SUPERVISE, SUPERVISE.

The more that you can supervise rather than confine, the happier Puppy will be. Additionally, he will learn his lessons that much quicker. If you must wrap a leash around your waist to keep Puppy with you while you move about your home, do so. If all members of the family must take turns leaving the room or taking the puppy with them, do so. However, when you CANNOT keep him supervised, CONFINE him. He doesn't care that you just left the room "for a minute." That absence gave him a minute to fill--possibly with your favorite sandal.

SCAN THE ROOM, REMOVE THE BAIT.

When you leave toys, shoes, books, and other objects lying around, you have set Puppy up to fail. If it is within sight, if it is within reach, it should be considered bait. Redirect your commands--instead of directing "drop it, drop it!" at Puppy, you should be repeating "pick it up, pick it up" to every other family member in the house. Remember, every failure to remove these objects before they are confiscated by Puppy should be considered a failure by you, not Puppy.

TRADE THE GOODS.

Try rewarding Puppy--not for taking the wrong object, but for trading it for the right object. Trade a shoe or a couch leg for a favorite treat or toy, happily and without a fuss on your part. Make sure you keep your voice cheerful and offer lots of praise when he even thinks of doing the right thing. He will learn not to run from you with his stolen object, as he will know that you are approaching to offer him a desireable trade. (Make it worth the trade, or you lose!)

NEVER LET HIM SEE YOU SWEAT.

When you feel your patience running low, separate yourself from Puppy. Give him time in his crate with a favorite toy or treat and give yourself some space. Whenever you can, read about how puppies think. Do this throughout his growing stages to keep reminding yourself that he is a Puppy, not a person. Keeping this straight in times of stress will keep you giving Puppy positive signals that will help to build his confidence and his ability to be the best canine companion he can be.

WIN, WIN.

You will have a win/win relationship when you remember the Golden Rules of Preventing Puppy Theft--Supervise, Supervise, Supervise; Scan the Room, Remove the Bait; Trade the Goods; and Never Let Him See You Sweat.

The author has worked with dogs and dog people for two decades, advocating for smart selections before a new dog is brought into a home and always stressing responsible selection and ownership for the good of the dog, the family and the community. She also makes dog and cat art available to the companion animal industry and to animal lovers at <a target="_new" href="http://www.GreatandSmallGallery.com">http://www.GreatandSmallGallery.com</a>

Dog Health Conditions and Terms You Should Know, Part 3...

2009-01-25T01:10:00.001-08:00

Continued from part two.

Epilepsy/seizure disorder

When your Boxer is between 2 to 5 years old, he may develop seizure disorder.

When he has an epilepsy attack, he'd be unconscious and may look like he is not breathing but he is. He is not suffering.

The information that would be important to your veterinarian regarding such episodes includes:

> Duration of the attack

> The type of muscular activity your Boxer exhibits during seizure

> Any abnormal behavior during the attack

> Frequency of the seizure

What you do in such instances is not panic and time the attack by actually looking at a watch or clock.

It may only take place for 30 seconds but may seem forever to you. You need a veterinarian if it lasts more than 5 minutes.

Emergency treatment is definitely called for if your Boxer goes into seizure for 10 minutes or longer, twice in the span of 24 hours, or if he has a second attack before he could completely recover from the first seizure attack.

Remain by your Boxer's side; be there when he comes out of the seizure to calm him. Stroke and comfort him.

To keep your Boxer from hurting himself during the seizure, move away furniture from the immediate area and protect him from water, the stairs and any sharp objects. If you can, place a pillow under his head to protect him from head trauma.

Unlike seizure attacks in human, animals do not swallow their tongue. So you don't have to put your hand or spoon or any other object into your Boxer's mouth when he has an attack. You might get bitten.

Also, keep children and other pets away from your sick Boxer.

Coming out of the seizure, your Boxer will be groggy, confused and feel like he has done something wrong. He may make unusual sounds and stumble around.

Do not allow him on the stairs until he has fully recovered. In the mean time, sooth him by talking to him softly, offer him some water, stroke and comfort him.

And if he doesn't recover fully after 30 minutes, consult your veterinarian or any emergency vet facility.

Flea-infected Boxers

Flea-infected Boxers can develop skin diseases especially those allergic to fleas.

Black specs in the fur and bite marks on the skin tell if your Boxer has them. To check further, spread some newspapers and place your Boxer on top. Brush him and look for the black specs falling off.

Fleas live up to 6 weeks, feeding on blood and during that time would have laid hundreds of eggs that mostly land on your Boxer's bedding, carpets and other favorable nests around your home.

The eggs hatch into larvae that seek nice, dark places while feeding on flea's droppings, dust, human shed skin, dandruff and other such tasty morsels.

The larvae turn into hardy pupae that could survive for months before changing into adult fleas.

Fleas are host to tapeworms. Both problems are likely to occur together in your Boxer and, therefore, the treatments are also usually given together by the vet.

A bit of garlic a day may keep the fleas away from your Boxer.

Heart ailments

-Bradycardia or slow heart rate may be a symptom of thyroid disorder in Boxers.

-Dialated cardiomyopathy constitutes a serious, emergency case.

Your dog may collapse from it or the back legs have sudden pain and paralysis.

It is a serious heart condition whereby the heart muscle is enlarged and thin walled. Your Boxer will experience shortness of breath, coughing and can't take to exercise.

Another serious heart condition is called cardiac conduction disease that is affecting Boxer's longevity. It was previously known as Boxer cardiomyopathy but the new term is used to differentiate it from dilative cardiomyopathy.

Cardiac conduction is difficult to deal with due to 3 factors.

-One is many Boxers will not show any symptom (asymptotic) but will just drop dead suddenly from it.

-The Boxers develop this disease later in life, often after they have been bred.

-There was no good screening method for it until the one recently developed by Ohio State University researchers, called the 24-hour Holter monitor test.

However, there is still no assurance that Boxers "cleared" now from cardiac conduction disease by the Holter test will remain so in the future.

Many breeders and Boxer experts are now working to refine the test procedures, expand the database and come up with a guideline to select only, for breeding purposes, those Boxers with high probability of being free of the disease.

There are also concerns elimination of too many dogs from the gene pool would be bad for the breed diversity and could cause more problems in the future. Some opinions hold that extensive culling should only get done after more studies on genetic diversity in Boxers.

Hip dysplasia

This is a bone disorder whereby there is an improper fit of the large femur bone with the hip socket, causing lots of pain and lameness.

It occurs more in males

This articles is available at http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-health3.php

Part 1 is available at http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-health.php
Part 2 is available at http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-health2.php

Daniel Lesser
Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources <a target="_new" href="http://www.thingsfordogs.com">http://www.thingsfordogs.com</a>

Do You Make These Mistakes Loading Your Horse Into A Trailer?

2009-01-25T01:00:00.000-08:00

Mistake #1:

"Here, Kitty Kitty..."

Unless they have been educated, new horse owners often think a horse is like a cat or dog. They figure if they tap their thighs and say, "C'mon,...C'mon,...C'mon..." the horse'll will simply jump right in the trailer like a happy dog or cat.

Mistake #2:

"Using Food As Bait"

Putting hay, grain, apples, or whatever at the front of the trailer to tempt a horse to step in and eat almost never works. If it did, it would be a fluke. I've seen horses lean forward to try and eat the food but wouldn't step into the trailer if their life depended on it.

Mistake #3:

"Forgetting To Hook The Trailer To The Truck"

Don't forget to hitch the trailer to the truck before getting a horse to go in the trailer. If a horse steps into a trailer that moves around unforgivably, you will have a harder time getting that horse in later. He'll remember it - especially if this is the horse's first time.

Mistake #4:

"The Classic Tug Of War"

Here's the scene. Man (or woman) pulls lead rope to desperately drag their horse into the trailer. Horse weighs 10 times more than man or woman and has far more strength than the man or woman. Final score of this battle is: Human - Zero...Horse - Won

Mistake #5:

"Going Trail Riding Before Horse Is Good At Loading In A Trailer"

I've seen it time and time again. People go trail riding and when the ride is over the horse won't get back in the trailer. Amusingly, the horse owner comments, "Dang horse, he got in their last month". Remember to get your horse to practice this so it gets fixed on his brain.

It seems there will always be at least once a horse owner cannot load his horse into a trailer. But the secret is to teach a horse sending signals so he knows what you want him to do. It's partly how man and horse communicate.

If you ever find yourself frustrated with your horse because he won't get in, here's a quick solution.

Get a long rope and loop it over his rear and let it slide down to about the top of his back legs. Let the rope hit around his back legs and note his reaction. (Be holding this rope in your right hand and hold his halter with your left hand) He may kick at the rope on his back legs or he may not. If he doesn't, it means he's likely okay with the rope being back there.

If he kicks at the rope then he needs to get used to it. Just let the rope kind of hang there and touch his back legs. The horse may get jumpy and try to move from it. He may move forward or in a circle. While holding his halter stiffen your left arm a bit and make him go around you while holding the rope and halter. You, the handler, are acting as an axis.

Fairly quickly the horse will realize the rope isn't hurting him and you can move to the next step.

Pull on the rope to get the horse to move with you. When he moves forward from your pull, release the pressure. The idea is for him to move when you exert the pressure. He should catch on pretty quickly to what you want.

Now lead him to the trailer and guide his head into the trailer if necessary. With the lead rope attached to his halter, pull on the lead rope while pulling harder on the "butt rope".

Your horse may or may not jump in the trailer but chances are he will. Also, be careful doing this because he may pop in the trailer very quickly and you could get hurt.

About The Author

Dogtra: Superior Dog Training Equipment that Performs as it Claims

2009-01-23T23:30:00.001-08:00

<h2>Dogtra</h2>

When looking for a dog training collar or containment system, consider Dogtra as an option. This brand of training collar is exceptional in its quality and ability to perform as it claims. Dogtra has many choices and options for pet owners who are looking for a way to control their animal or to find a way to make the dog behave as it should.

Dogtra has many types of systems to help you achieve your goal. They provide systems to contain the animal, as well as bark collars. These products have been utilized by many industries as well. In industries where animals can serve people, teaching them the correct behaviors is key. These industries include firefighting and police departments, hunters, farmers, and even service dogs. These dogs can be trained to sniff out information or find people, or even to help the blind or deaf.

Dogtra's products are versatile to fit the dog's size and weight. Dogtra manufactures dog training collars for just about any dog. Most Dogtra systems come with a money back guarantee to help ensure customer satisfaction. Dogtra products are water resistant and many even have rechargeable batteries to limit your costs. Dogtra is a trusted brand in dog training collars.

Dogtra also offers its customers pet containment systems as well. These systems keep pets within their specified boundaries. If you do not wish to install a fence around your yard, a pet containment system by Dogtra will enable you to avoid this and still allow your pet the freedom to roam a selected area. They work by shocking an animal that comes too close to under ground sensors. The sensor transmits back to the collar that the animal is too close and the collar gives off a small electronic stimulation that is similar to static shock to tell the dog to back off. It is quite effective in containing an animal. Dogtra offers some of the best pet containment systems out there.

Whether you are in the market for a dog training collar or a pet containment system, consider Dogtra as a very reliable and cost effective option. With the level of confidence you can have in the systems from Dogtra, you can count on achieving your goal of animal obedience.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net">http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net</a>

Byron Pappageorge

Wooden Bird Cages

2009-01-22T23:10:00.001-08:00

Gone are the days of boring bird cages. Today's bird cages are trendy. They are stylish. They make a statement about the owner's taste and lifestyle. Bird cages can blend in artfully with the d?cor or they can stand in bold contrast. Bird cages are available in many different themes and styles. Modern, whimsical, simplistic, Victorian, Oriental, Tuscan, Arabian -bird cages are available in these styles and more.

Some of the most beautiful cages in any style are wooden bird cages. They can be made of most any wood-cherry, oak, pine, maple, and even laminate. For most any wood d?cor, there is a wooden bird cage to match. And, if you can't find an existing bird cage, one can be made to match.

For all their beauty, though, there are some things to consider before buying a wooden bird cage. For example, wooden bird cages are difficult to clean. They can be very challenging to disinfectant and sanitize, as germs and bacteria can get into the grains.

If you own a parrot, it is definitely best to avoid wooden bird cages. Parrots enjoy chewing the wood.

Wooden bird cages are available online in a variety of sizes. They can also be custom ordered to your exact specifications. Though used wooden bird cages are available, they should be avoided. These cages could pose a significant health risk to your bird and your family.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.e-birdcages.com">Bird Cages Info</a> provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as covers and stands. Bird Cages Info is the sister site of <a target="_new" href="http://www.e-dogbeds.com">Dog Beds Web</a>.

How to Protect Your Dog and Family from Roundworms

2009-01-22T17:40:00.001-08:00

Nearly every puppy in the world is born with roundworms. This is because the roundworm's larvae are transmitted from the mother to the puppy while it is still in the womb. A female dog can harbor roundworms in her tissue, often making them immune to dewormings. The roundworms then have the opportunity to emerge during pregnancy through the mother's bloodstream and infect the unborn puppies. Roundworms can also be transmitted to newborn puppies through the mother's milk during nursing.

Roundworms are also easily transmitted to humans. Young children are most susceptible because they are always sticking their fingers in their mouths! Roundworms are transmitted to humans and dogs through eggs that are in a dog or puppy's stool. They can either be ingested through direct eating of the stool or by eating something else that has eaten the stool (the dog eats a bird, mouse, etc. that has eaten the dog's stool).

Everyone should wash their hands frequently after handling the puppy or dog and make sure that all feces is removed from the yard and disposed of on a daily basis. Most infections in people are mild and cause no symptoms at all. However there have been cases of worms migrating to the liver, brain, and eyes.

Symptoms of roundworms in humans include :

? Anemia
? Appetite Loss
? Difficulty Breathing
? Constipation
? Cough
? Cramping
? Diarrhea
? Fever
? Hives
? Itching
? Nausea
? Chest Pain
? Muscle Pain
? Passing of Worms
? Rash
? Skin Lesions
? Swelling
? Vision Disturbances
? Vomiting
? Weight Loss

Infected puppies can become quite ill and heavy infestations may lead to convulsions and even death. Most puppies that die are around the age of two to three weeks old. Puppies should be wormed at ages 2, 4, 6 and 8 weeks of age. Adult dogs should receive yearly stool samples from their veterinarian to check for worms. Roundworms will look like spaghetti in the puppy's feces.

Symptoms of roundworms in dogs include :

? Potbelly
? Diarrhea
? Gas
? Vomiting
? Lack of Energy
? Slow Growth Rate
? Dull Coat
? Coughing (if immature roundworms have migrated to the puppy's lungs)

Some dogs may show some or all of these symptoms while others may show no symptoms at all. When adult roundworms are seen in the dog's stool this is often because of ongoing disease in the bowel or sometimes because the worm burden had become so great that the worms are crowding each other out.

Treatment of roundworms is not dangerous and is highly effective. Buy your wormers from the vet and give them regularly as instructed. The tablets are not difficult to give if you train your dog to take them in tiny bits of cheese or put them into sweets. The best way to protect your family and dogs from roundworms is through a regular program of both medication and prevention (keeping the yard clean of feces).

About the Author:
Jennifer Bryant is a life-long lover of dogs. Jennifer loves and breeds American Pit Bull Terriers in her North Georgia home with her 2 young children. Her love of dogs has inspired her to create a website for herself (as well as other dog breeders) to advertise their occasional litter of puppies and to educate others with dog breed information and useful articles.

<A target="_new" HREF="http://www.bryantsreddevils.com"> <B>Bryant's Red Devils</B>
Red Nose American Pit Bull Terriers</A>

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Perfect Dog Gifts For the Dog Lover

2009-01-22T00:30:00.001-08:00

Have a dog lover on your gift list? Want to give a special gift that any dog owner will enjoy? You're in luck! You can choose the perfect dog lover gift from the huge selection that's available. Just about any type of product is available as a dog lover gift, so you can find a special gift that stands out from the rest.

You might be a bit overwhelmed when you first browse through a selection of dog lover gifts - there's so many available! - but there's a way to narrow down your selection. You can choose a gift by dog breed or, if you already have an item in mind, you can look for that gift in a dog lover theme.

Just about everything you can think of is available in a dog motif. Kitchen tools, cups and dishes, picture frames, and figurines can be found to suit the dog lover. You can also find fabrics and ready-made jackets, pillow cases, scarves, comforters and handbags designed for the dog lover.

If you are looking for a gift with a particular dog breed in mind, it's easy to find something appropriate. It doesn't matter if your friend owns a Dalmatian, an Airedale, a Maltese or an English bulldog ? you can find lots of gifts that match the type of dog.

Dog owners love their pets, so a good dog lover gift is a picture frame that they can put a nice photo of Rover in. Check out the huge selection of dog-related picture frames that are available ? you can find something to suit both owner and dog!

Speaking of pictures, your dog owner friend would love a sweat shirt or t-shirt with a picture of their dog on the front. This kind of personalized gift will be appreciated and remembered every time they wear the clothing.

Other popular gifts for the dog owner include personalized jewelry, tote bags, notebooks and stationary, and license plate frames. Any dog owner will be thrilled to receive these special gifts to remind him or her of the precious pooch in their life.

When choosing a dog lover gift for your friend, don't forget to get something for the dog too. Buy some dog biscuits or a personalized feeding bowl to go along with your "human" gift and you will have a pair of friends for life.

Remember, a dog lover gift is welcome on any occasion. No need to wait for birthdays or Christmas ? a special gift for your dog lover friend will be appreciated at any time!

Jane K is a lifelong dog enthusiast with a family of four beloved dogs of her own which provide the inspiration for this site. To learn more about how to care for your own beloved dog ? visit her at <a target="_new" href="http://www.simply-dog-care-and-more.com">http://www.simply-dog-care-and-more.com</a>

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My Tips to Take Care of a New Dog

2009-01-21T18:40:00.001-08:00

So you're bringing home that cute little puppy from the best breeder after doing all that research, or you found the most adorable "mutt" at the pound, where you were just going to look, you swore. And now you realize that you weren't as prepared as you thought. Maybe you're planning in advance for the new bundle of joy. Either way, we'll give you some valuable tips we've learned over the years of bringing home little bundles of terror ? I mean joy :)

Learn as much as possible about potty training, and expect none of it to matter, especially when you step in their deposits at 3 a.m. in the pitch black ? it WILL happen!

Buy the smallest bag of puppy chow you can find. Your dog will hate the first one, and the second one and the third one. Buying small will help you overcome the horror of the money you've just spent on the 7th brand of dog food in 2 weeks.

Strip naked or at the very least to a swimsuit before bathing your dog. You WILL BE WET. No way to avoid it, even in a 2 foot deep sunken bathtub. Personal experience talking here.

Prepare yourself for the fact that the toy you thought was SO COOL in the store, will be sniffed and promptly ignored until the end of time. Your dog will only like the toys that will drive you the most crazy. One of the favorites in our house (NOT purchased by us) is a big skunk with a plastic bottle inside. Inside said plastic bottle is a marble. Aaaaaargh. 'Nuff said.

That gorgeous dog bed you bought? You know, the one that cost almost as much as the new king size bed you got to accommodate the new dog? Yeah, the dog will rarely, if ever use it. Preferred dog beds in this house? Couches, blankets dragged to the floor, pile of clothes, carpets ? and of course, our bed, preferably leaving as little room as possible for the humans by stretching as wide as possible.

Training? What's that? Mine occasionally come when called, and usually sit when told, but that's about it. I've given up. Did you know that a dog can be flunked out of training school? Neither did I until it happened? to ME!

Fill in the blank: my favorite ______ will be chewed to death. Expect it. Embrace it. You will live it.

I think the biggest tip I can give to a new dog owner is to become a firm believer in Murphy's Law: whatever can happen usually will and at the worst possible time. Of course, if you'd like to avoid my jaded outlook on life with a dog, visit our website, <a target="_new" href="http://www.a1-dog-info.com/tips-to-take-care-of-a-new-dog.htm">http://www.a1-dog-info.com/tips-to-take-care-of-a-new-dog.htm</a> for more tips to help you survive living with a dog.

Tara Pearce is the author and webmaster of A1-Dog-Info.com. Please visit us for all kinds of information about dog food, toys, health, books, supplies and clothes.

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Pet Food Label Secrets Revealed! Know What You Are Feeding Your Dog And Cat

2009-01-21T11:40:00.001-08:00

Reading a pet food label, how difficult can it be? You just pick up your regular brand and look at the variety on the front, right? Not so fast! Reading a pet food label isn't as easy as you may think. It's not just ingredients and feeding suggestions. There's also a "secret code" you should know about. The code helps you separate the Chicken Formula from the Chicken Dinner and the Beef and Bacon from the Beef with Bacon. You may be thinking "Aren't they all the same?" and the answer is no.

While pet food labeling is regulated at the federal level, some states have their own labeling laws. Many follow the Pet Food Regulations established by the AAFOC (Association of American Food Control Officials).

The secret of pet food descriptions are dictated by four AAFCO rules ...

1) The 95% Rule - The products that fall under this regulation have simple descriptions such as "Chicken Cat Food" or "Beef for Dogs". These foods must contain at least 95% (not including water) of the named ingredient. In this case, chicken or beef. If a food description contains more than one meat, poultry or fish ingredient such as "Chicken and Liver Cat Food" , then both ingredients combined must equal 95%, with the first named ingredient being the highest percentage of the two. The 95% rule does not apply to grains and vegetables, so "Chicken and Rice Dog Food" must still contain 95% chicken.

2) The 25% or "Dinner" Rule - If the named descriptive ingredient falls between 25%-94% of the total product (still not counting water), then the description must include a qualifying word such as "Dinner", "Platter", "Formula", etc. As in the first rule two listed ingredients must have be at least 25% of the total weight combined. So, "Chicken Dinner" only has to contain 25% chicken, while "Chicken and Liver Dinner" only has to contain 25% of the two combined. (Minimum of 3% of any named ingredient.) Unlike the first rule, the 25% rule applies to all food, not just meat sources.

3) The 3% or "With" Rule - This is where things get a little sneaky. Any ingredient on a label proceeded by "with" must equal at least 3% of the total weight (minus water). That might sound all right if the food is "Beef with Chicken" (95% beef, 3% chicken), but how does it sound in this form..."Dog Food with Beef"? Yep, that tells you that it only has to contain 3% beef! (Makes you wonder what the other 97% contains doesn't it?)

4) The "Flavor" rule - There is no percentage attached to an ingredient described as a "flavor". There only needs to be an amount sufficient enough to be detected by test methods. As you can probably guess "Chicken Flavored Cat Food" may contain very little chicken. In this case it doesn't even need to be chicken as we normally think about it, but instead can be chicken meal or chicken by-products.

Premium Food - Looking down the pet food aisle you may be attracted to foods listed as "Premium" or "Gourmet". These descriptive words have no requirements attached to them, so while a "Premium" food may sound like it's higher quality food, in reality it doesn't have to be any better than anything else on the shelf.

Now you know the secret of pet food descriptions and can be confident that the next time you're scanning the different varieties of food for your best friend you'll be able to tell the difference between "Beef for Dogs", "Beef Dinner", or "Dog Food with Beef".

Jill Richards is the Owner/Operator of <A target="_new" HREF="http://www.haveleashwilltravel.com">"Have Leash, Will Travel - Pet Sitting"</A> in Aurora, CO and offers t-shirts, sweatshirts, and stickers to Pet Professionals, Animal Rescue Workers, Anti-Breed Ban/BSL Fighters, and Pet Lovers through <A target="_new" HREF="http://www.uspetpros.com">USPetPros.com</A>

Natural Approaches to Dealing With Pesky Fleas

2009-01-20T15:00:00.001-08:00

Problems with Commercial Flea Killers & Traditional

Flea Bite Treatments

***Chemicals that act as poisons are strong enough to

kill fleas, but the long term effects on pets are

unknown, although they are probably not safe to

use. (Employees manufacturing these products must

wear protective clothing and use respirators.

Plus, the product labels warn against skin contact.

So,if the chemicals are potentially harmful to

humans,they are probably not the most healthy

product for pets. )

***Prednisone & other corticosteroid drugs used to

give relief from flea bites help to stop itching &

inflammation. But, they also suppress a pet's

immune system and have possible long-term side

effects: water retention, liver or thyroid damage,

hypertension, obesity, & heart attack.

Healthy Alternatives

***Strengthen your pet's immune system:

Eliminate food allergens from the diet, and

supplement the diet with a well-balanced

essential fatty acid (EFA), probiotics (bifidus

& acidophilus) & digestive enzyme supplements.

EFAs help to make your pet less attractive to

fleas, and digestive supplements carry nutrients

throughout the body & help to breakdown & remove

waste materials that may lead to food allergies.

***Herbs

-Add a pinch of garlic powder to food.

-Add apple cider vinegar to your pet's water.

-Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon dried Nettle onto your

pet's food (helps to reduce allergic response).

-Add to food or squirt into pet's mouth a low-

alcohol liquid tincture of Dandelion Root,

Burdock Root, or Red Clover (helps eliminate

wastes & supports immune system).

-For severe flea bite allergies (red, inflamed,

itchy skin), licorice serves as an anti-

infammatory. Also, an aloe juice can help to

heal & to relieve itching. Directions: Add

one cup aloe juice to 4 parts water. Pour the

cool liquid onto affected areas of your pet's

coat.

***Environment Treatment

Since fleas spend 80% of their time in the

pet's environment, not on the pet, apply herbal

products to your pet's environmental areas

(bedding, etc.). Look for products that contain

extracts and/or oils of eucalyptus, citronella,

juniper, cedar, citrus oil, or Canadian fleabane.

(Citrus oil & Canadian fleabane contain d-

Limonine which can kill fleas.)

***Bathing

Bathe with a good, mild herbal pet shampoo

formulated to bring relief and remove fleas and

body wastes from the skin.

Only use shampoos meant for pets, not humans.

(Human shampoos are often too harsh and may

contain allergens that worsen a pet's allergic

condition.)

Also, don't shampoo too often or irritation &

dryness may occur.

Deena Caruso, author, teacher, & distributor of natural pet products Helps pet owners create healthy, happy pets. To receive FREE "Pet Pointers" Newsletter, go to: <a target="_new" href="http://www.healthyfoodforpets.com">http://www.healthyfoodforpets.com</a> <a href="mailto:deecaruso@cox.net">deecaruso@cox.net</a> Ph: 760/758-7963, 877/877-0665

The Birds and the Bees for Adults (Parrots, That Is!)

2009-01-20T09:20:00.001-08:00

The days are getting longer, and if you have a sexually mature parrot, there may be some major sexual stuff going on - and you might not even know it!

A lot of people believe sexual behavior in adult parrots means they now need to be put in a breeding situation - not true! While there are a FEW birds who truly are not happy as pets and desperately want a mate and babies, they are very much in the minority. For most birds, it's simply a few months of mother Nature's influence, which then passes, revealing your loving companion once again. While some birds do become aggressive at this time, the majority do not. In a true breeding situation, with a bonded pair and a nest box, you will of course, see aggressive, territorial behavior, but generally not so much in single birds in our homes. Some birdies exhibit "selective aggressiveness," depending on the situation and environment.

Basically, sexual behavior starts when the number of hours of daylight begin to lengthen. It's helpful to follow the natural light cycle at this time, getting them up with the sun, and going to bed when it sets. Lots of birds become super cuddly when hormonal, wanting to snuggle more and literally lay in your lap. Touching gets "touchy", since a lot of your usual petting may now be sexually stimulating. Avoid stroking under the wings, under the tail, over the tail (or tugging on it), hands down their full body, or pressure on the back. All of this can be too stimulating, causing frustration. It's like lots of foreplay, with no culmination to follow! While sexual urges are natural, and fairly common in a lot of adult birds, it is not something to encourage.

By the same token, don't discourage or reprimand - simply ignore it, and try to avoid instigating it! Often, we're not aware of our role in the whole process, and unlike "spring fever" in adolescent birds, mature sexuality is often much more subtle, so that we may not even be aware that our birds experiencing it.

In many birds, they're either a bit more affectionate or a bit more grouchy, but not much else is obvious. Some birds exhibit no changes at all. If you do intend to get a mate and embark on the adventure of breeding parrots, please don't start too early! Many people mistake "spring fever" in immature birds as a sign of readiness for breeding, but like all kids, they're simply playacting. Breeding too young puts tremendous stress on Mom - instead of putting energy into her own body's development, it all goes into laying eggs and raising babies. You also tend to get weaker, smaller babies with less vitality.

Another trigger during this phase is anything that looks inviting for nesting - boxes, drawers, cupboards, bags, etc. - cozy protected little nooks and crannies. Avoid having those things around, and definitely don't offer a nest box! Some people do, as a place for birdies to hide, sleep or hang out, but it will make things worse. With some kids, "Happy Huts" will do the same thing - you may want to remove it for awhile.

Be careful! Watch your bird for over stimulation signals - eye pinning, tail fanning, feather puffing, blushing, posturing. You may need to change your approach in handling at this time. Use "step up/down" commands consistently, and avoid having your bird higher than your head and shoulders. You may want to use a hand held perch for bringing your bird out of his cage or off his playstand. Biting can definitely be a problem now. Make use of a "neutral room" when needed, to regain or maintain your position as flock leader.

Other factors affecting sexual behavior include humidity and temperature, as well as lighting and hours of daylight. Normally, nature pushes birds to reproduce right around the time that plants are flourishing, producing lush foliage, seed, flowers, and fruit. This ensures adequate food being available to feed the new hungry mouths!

You may get lucky, and have a parrot who slides right through "breeding season" without batting an eye. Not everyone acts out when the hormones surge! Just be prepared, keep alert, and use good judgment if problems arise. I don't advise doing major behavioral work in the spring if your bird does react negatively, although this is usually when I get a ton of calls begging for help!! Sadly, it also seems to be the time when many birds are put up for sale, as the owners are either unaware or unwilling to deal with this very natural, normal event.

If you do run into problems now, though, it's still advisable to work on behavior after things return to normal. Improving your techniques and building a stronger bond, based on trust and guidance, may help you and your parrot deal better with potential problems next year! Hang in there meanwhile, and don't entice your birdie with provocative behavior. Instead, buy some new toys, feed him more fresh veggies and healthy stuff, and enjoy the promise of new life that accompanies the beautiful season of spring!

-----------------------------------------
Your Parrot Place
Marilu Anderson, Bird Nutrition and Behavior Consultant, (503) 771-BIRD. Marilu is a regular contributor to the Your Parrot Place Newsletter. <a target="_new" href="http://1mc.tmkhosting.com/track.php?action=mtrack&id=3&track=28">YourParrotPlace.com</a> - Only the Best for Your Parrot!

Free eBook!
140 pages! A compilation of parrot articles from 2000-2004.
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Worms in Your Dog... Gross!

2009-01-19T13:10:00.001-08:00

Of all the parasites a dog can catch, worms take home first prize for Most Disgusting. Nobody wants to imagine little worms crawling around in their dog's digestive system, but it's a fairly common ailment that's easily passed from dog to dog. So if he does happen to contract them, tell your furry fella not to feel ashamed of his worms! They're easily prevented and controlled with medication that your vet routinely prescribes to hundreds of pooches just like him.

Roundworms are the most common type of worm, especially in unvaccinated puppies who may just be getting into that exploratory stage, which of course involves exploring other dogs' feces. Regardless of your dog's age, you'll know he's contracted roundworms if his stools look like spaghetti. Other signs include vomiting and diarrhea. If your dog displays any of these symptoms, bring him in to the vet's office for a worm diagnosis and treatment. In the future, roundworms can be avoided with a worm preventative that your vet will recommend.

Hookworms find their way to your dog's digestive tract through the pads of his feet and the skin of his belly. He can easily pick them up by way of infected soil. Once infected with hookworms, your dog will pass dark or bloody stools, an indication that the hookworms are sucking blood from his intestinal tract. If left untreated, hookworms cause anemia in your poor pooch, so bring him into the vet ASAP for a deworming and preventative against future hookworm episodes.

Tapeworms are passed through fecalmatter and flea larvae, and easily spread from dogs to humans through direct contact. They're easily visible in your dog's waste, so while it may seem a vile practice, take an extra long look at your dog's poop every now and then to check for tapeworms. While they are harmless to your dog, tapeworms are hazardous to humans. If your dog has them, they should be treated promptly.

Heartworms can KILL your dog! They're transmitted through mosquitoes and are lethal if left untreated. These parasites make their way to your dog's heart, where the live and grow until heart functions are totally blocked, leading to heart failure and death. Symptoms of heartworms in your dog are coughing, labored breathing, weight loss and fainting. If you suspect heartworm, prevent your dog from exercising and get him to a vet immediately. Your dog's doctor will determine what stage the disease has progressed to, and recommend treatment accordingly. If caught early, your dog may only require medicine injections and aspirin. If the disease is in advanced stages, he may require treatment for heart failure. It's wise to protect your dog against heartworm with a routine vaccination, and as an added precaution, guard him against mosquitoes with an insect repellent recommended by your vet.

Check your dog regularly for any weird symptoms that could indicate a case of worms. Be sure to bring him in for vet checkups on a regular basis. Find out what precautionary steps you can take to prevent worms and other parasites. In this way, you'll ensure him a happy and worm-free existence!

Dina Giolitto is a copywriting consultant and ghostwriter with 10 years of experience writing corporate print materials and web content. Trust her with your next e-book, article series or web project, and make a lasting impression on your audience of information-hungry prospects. Visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.wordfeeder.com">http://www.wordfeeder.com</a> for more information.

West Highland White Terriers- Fascinating Facts

2009-01-18T20:40:00.001-08:00

West Highland White Terriers began their history as the undesirable white offspring of the dark-colored Cairn Terrier. With the dog's popularity today, it is hard to believe that the early Westies were usually drowned or shot.

One breeder, though, Colonel Edward Donald Malcolm of Poltalloch, is credited with recognizing the potential of the white coat. The legend is that it made the dog more visible as it ran through brush, and prevented it from being mistaken for prey during foxhunts. He bred them for their white coats, and for many years they were known as Poltalloch Terriers.

The Westies, as they commonly called today, the Cairn, Scottish, Skye, and Dandie Dinmont, Westhighland Terriers are closely related breeds that arose in the rugged terrain of Scotland. They were bred to chase down small prey such as otters, foxes, badgers, and vermin. The Terrier's features and temperament both were honed until it became a feisty little dog that would determinedly run its quarry to ground.

It has a small, compact body, with short legs, which allowed it to run and squirm through underbrush where its usual prey dwelled. The Westie's double coat has coarse outer hairs to shed dirt and debris, and a thick, soft undercoat.

Like many hunting dogs, they are considered intelligent. They also are prone to pursue any creature that runs from it. Barking announced to the hunter that it was on the chase. Westie dogs were trained and bred to become more aggressive the harder the prey tried to escape.

The origin of the word 'terrier' is in the Latin word 'terra' - earth. It was given to them, and all terrier breeds, because once their prey is run to ground, they will dig it out. Westies today still possess the tendency to be diggers.

The modern white wsethighland terrier dog is a hardy, tenacious breed that is also loyal and friendly. They still retain the traits of their ancestors: a love of the chase, a moderate tendency to bark, a habit of digging, and they are prone to become a bit aggressive during very rough play. They are a little obstinate, and need firm, consistent discipline. However, they are also easy to care for, and natural guard dogs. Those taking a West Highland white Terrier as a pet will find themselves with a loyal, loving companion for the life of the dog.

I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

Good health and happiness

Jeff Cuckson
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Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest,
Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie You
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America; You Are Over Feeding Your Pets

2009-01-17T08:31:00.000-08:00

As many of you know America is serious about our pets. You and I are also equally as serious. We all get really upset when animals are not cared for properly and of course we will never feed our animals Tainted Dog Food with Mad Cow Disease from Carson City NV as was recently in the news.

Why are we not concerned with over feeding our animals? It seems our food these days has a lot more fattening additives, yet we then throw a piece to our pets, thinking we are making them happy, when really we are killing them. Most people love their pets but are we responsible for their early demise. One vet we talked to said that nearly 80% of all dogs, which come in are well over their normal breeds ideal weight. Meaning they waddle, are slow and can get doggy diabetes and other horrible problems. You should walk your dog or exercise him or her at least 30 minutes per day or 1 hour if possible. Would you look at this cat? How can you laugh at this, this is sickening and it is due to people not caring about their own animals, you are not doing a favor to your animal by over feeding them people food.

http://www.goofyfun.com/fun/fatcat.htm

And listen to this story by the FBI that serial killers and rapeists are known to over feed their animals. I suppose you do not want to be thought of like this.

http://www.animalshelter.com/triviachallenge.html

The fattest city is in Houston, and the people there most often will do whatever they can to shed pounds.

http://www.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,4057,5807170%255E13762,00.html

Having a fat dog is not funny, it is not a contest, yet in some places they actually have contests for the fattest dog?

America, please do not over feed your animals you are not doing them or yourself any favors. Think about it America.

"Lance Winslow" - If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; <a target="_new" href="http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs">www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs</a>

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

2009-01-16T23:31:00.001-08:00

Let's take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations ? each dog will progress at its own pace.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage 2-3 Weeks

The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it's during this time that your puppy's eyes will open, and he'll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. He'll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He'll start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage 3-4 Weeks

The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he'll begin to recognize you and other family members. It's best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period ? negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it's essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage 4-7 Weeks

From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life ? he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.

He'll also learn discipline at this point ? Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week ? transition gradually as Mom weans them. Continue handling the pups daily, but don't separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development. Experts say that the best time in a puppy's life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age ? that's the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It's extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during as much of this period as possible. Don't discipline for play fighting, housebreaking mistakes or mouthing ? that's all normal behavior for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The "I'm Afraid of Everything" Stage 8 Weeks to 3 Months

The "I'm Afraid of Everything" Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a "fearful period" that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but most do, and they'll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events. At this time your puppy's bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he's capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It's important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he'll continue to learn behaviors and manners that will affect him in later years.

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage 3 Months to 4 Months

The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it's during this time your puppy is most like a toddler. He'll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he's only recently learned ? just like a child does when they're trying to exert their new-found independence. As in "I don't have to listen to you!" Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is what's required here. He might start biting you ? play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp "No!" or "No bite!" command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him, should take care of this problem. Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis, but don't play games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance ? especially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppy's strength grows, he's going to want to play-fight to see who's stronger ? even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it's ok to fight with you. And that's not ok!

Stage 6: The Brat Stage 4-6 Months

The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it's during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you ? expect to see more "testing the limits" type of behaviors. He'll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.

He may try to assert his new "dominance" over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you're in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog's response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result ? so don't take the chance.

He'll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven't already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage 6-18 Months

The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog's life - he's young, he's exuberant, he's full of beans ? and yet he's learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog.

Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time ? just because he's approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he's not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if that's something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals ? allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

Congratulations! You've raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you've raised a kid, doesn't it?

Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!" To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit: <a target="_new" href="http://tinyurl.com/6u2cj">http://tinyurl.com/6u2cj</a>

Protect Your Pets From The Pound

2009-01-16T16:00:00.001-08:00

Pets are people, too. At least, that's the way they should be treated by their owners. The sad reality, though, is that a lot people own pets when they're really not ready to care properly for their little furry friends. Or they just don't know how to love, clean, and treat a cat, dog, or other animal the right and humane way. What happens to these poor animals? Many end up in shelters, lost and unwanted-to the tune of 6 to 8 million every year according to the Humane Society. At least half of those end up being "put to sleep," to put it nicely.

When they first start out looking to buy a pet, everyone says that they aren't like that, that they won't have their pet end up caged in a pound somewhere. If you want to be one of the people who says this and means it, read on. Your commitment shows you are ready to learn how to own a pet. Once you are trained in the following pet ownership basics, then you can take the next step and find the perfect pet for you.

But before you meet this furry companion, take these following tips to heart:

Go down the list of required health-care needs. This is especially important for puppies and kittens, who need an arsenal of vaccinations when they're little. But even older pets require regular checkups and the occasional medication (such as for heartworms for dogs). Before you get a pet, locate a trusted veterinarian in your neighborhood and go over all of your soon-to-be pet's health needs.

Neuter, neuter, neuter. Point blank, this is one of the most crucial things you can do to protect your pet's health. Remember that number above from the Humane Society (6 to 8 million pets in cages)? Now consider that as many as 100 million other animals, mostly cats, live on the streets. Why? Their mommies and daddies weren't neutered.

Look into insurance. Believe it or not, pet health insurance is all the craze in employer benefits packages. That's because it comes in very handy nowadays, considering the importance of pet health and how pet pills and operations seem to be getting just as pricy as people medicine. Even if you don't get pet insurance through work, look into a package on your own. While you're at it, consider third-party liability insurance, too, especially for instances such as dog bites.

Tabulate the grocery tab. Perhaps the number one thing people don't realize when getting a pet is how expensive their food can be. Figure out just how much your pet will eat before you get it, planning always to provide your critter more than enough in proper and balanced meals. Ask yourself, "Can I afford this?"

Pour attention and love on your pet. Why even bother having a pet if you don't plan to give it affection? That's the whole point of keeping a critter around, right? So when your little guy (or girl) greets you at the door after work, or wants to snuggle in your lap in front of the TV, don't push them away. Award them for their faithfulness.

Groom your pet. Grooming counts toward that love and attention requirement, but it also is necessary for the animal's health as well. Depending on your type of animal, grooming could involve a bath, the occasional haircut, regular hair brushing, tooth exams, and paw inspection.

Hop, skip, and a jump. Animals love exercise. Whether they're normally cooped up in a cage, an apartment, or, well, a coop, be sure to free them from these confines as often as possible. Dogs don't just like to take walks to go potty. Cats don't like to tear up and down furniture just to shred it. They have energy to burn, and will be better off for it.

Teach your pet proper bathroom etiquette. Speaking of going potty, it is essential to train your pet at the earliest possible age to do so properly. Of course, this doesn't mean training them to put down the lid when they're done (although supposedly rabbits can be taught to do so!). But it does mean getting a cat to use a kitty litter box, for instance, or a dog to wait until it's outside. If you don't know how to train them, learn before you own them. Ask your parents or friends, read a book, visit a chat room, or talk with the vet.

Consider a proper place of higher learning. When training becomes an issue, whether it's for potty training or how-not-to-chew-up-your-shoes training, consider obedience school. It is not a mark of shame for either you or your pet. In fact, it may be just what your fur ball needs to live the happiest, safest, and healthiest life possible.

To put it bluntly, if you can't follow these rules, you shouldn't own a pet. Buy a plant instead. However, if you're up to the task-and really, most people are-your rewards will be immense. For a little bit of responsibility, time, and money on your part, you and your family will get a lifetime of love and unconditional adoration.

Donald Lee is the public relations manager for Buysellcommunity.com. Buysellcommunity provides free classified listing services for individuals and businesses to market their products and services online. Buy, Sell and trade: auto, computers, household items, real estate, pets and much more. For global and localized classifieds, please visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.buysellcommunity.com">http://www.buysellcommunity.com</a> Free Buy & Sell Classifieds

Terrorizing Your Cat with iRobot Vacuum System

2009-01-16T14:40:00.001-08:00

Do you have a home robotic vacuum cleaner? They are all the new rage and quite innovative indeed. If you do not have one you eventually will have one, as that is how the future of vacuuming around the house will be done. Most household tasks will be done by simple robotic systems with at least a minimum of artificial intelligence programming. The ride on lawnmowers will move over and make way to the autonomous lawn mowing robots in the near future. Today a good vacuum is expensive and the iRobot is price competitive and they are selling like hot cakes. Only one problem, the family pets, do not like them much.

There is a right and wrong way to introduce these robotic vacuum cleaners to your cat. If you stick your iRobot vacuum on the floor and use it to chase your cat you may get a laugh, but your cat will not appreciate that one bit. Would you like someone trying to vacuum up your tail? Well, would you? I think not. That of course is the wrong way to introduce your cat to the iRobot vacuum.

If you are careful to make a proper introduction of your iRobot vacuum, cats actually like them, as they watch them carefully criss-cross their domain. You see you cat knows it owns the place, you just pay the bills so your cat can lounge around all day. Sit on the floor and hold your cat and turn on the vacuum to cruise around, allow it to bump into to you and then kick it out of the way, push it away with your hand. Like a Mother Tiger you are teaching your cat to hunt the vacuum, thus they vacuum becomes the prey and your cat knows it is the aggressor, thus you car will sit on the sofa and watch the thing go around and around all day and attack it at will. Ah ha, a new toy. You see the iRobot has more than one beneficial use. What a great human you are to provide such a wonderful gift to your cat.

"Lance Winslow" - If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; <a target="_new" href="http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs">www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs</a>

Protect Your Pets From The Pound

2009-01-16T03:10:00.001-08:00

But before you meet this furry companion, take these following tips to heart:

Westies Puppies - How to Prepare for Your Westie Puppy

2009-01-15T23:30:00.001-08:00

Just like when you bring home a new baby, you will need to prepare before you bring home your westie puppy. The needs of westies puppies are not tremendous, but there are a few things that you must have in place to give your westie a safe, happy transition into your life.

It is much easier and safer to prevent your west highland terrier pup from getting into and destroying things than it is to watch him every second. Remember that any item they chew on is also an item that is potentially swallowed: bits of cloth, tassels, string, and of course, shoes.

Secure everything that can be picked up or moved. Electrical cords are a particular danger. A solution called 'bitter apple' can be sprayed on cords, and anything else that cannot be relocated, to discourage chewing.

Dog trainers recommend that you never give your new puppy the freedom to roam the house while you are gone. A crate will keep the dog secure, and can also be used for safe travel. Pick one that is big enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in. Baby gates, or pet gates, will keep it confined to a room of the house that has a durable floor.

Since your westie will not be old enough for reliable housetraining until about four months of ages, this may be essential to keeping your carpets stain-free.

Your westie dog will need to eat, and it is wisest to ask the breeder what he has been eating, and buy that brand. You may change the food later, but in the beginning he will have enough adjustments to make without a change in diet. Food and water bowls should be of stainless steel, since most plastics will become victims of teething.

To encourage it to chew on acceptable items, have a selection of sturdy chew toys on hand. These should be made of Cressite, or English rubber, although tennis balls and nylabones are also acceptable.

You will want to get your westhighland terrier puppy used to a collar and leash as quickly as possible. Buy a light collar and leash, suitable for puppies, and get an ID tag to go with them. The grooming routine is also something that it needs to experience as early as possible. Have a brush or comb ready at hand.

Some owners recommend a bed of old towels, while others suggest faux lambskin. Like everything else you buy for your westie puppy, whatever you choose for a bed should be both washable and durable, as well as comfortable for your dog.

Last, but not least, find a veterinarian. A reputable west highland white terrier breeder will even let you bring the dog to a vet before purchase, in order to ensure that the dog you bring home is healthy.

I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

Good health and happiness

Jeff Cuckson <a href="mailto:webmaster@madaboutwesties.com">webmaster@madaboutwesties.com</a>

Beds for the Pets: Sleeping in Comfort

2009-01-15T18:00:00.001-08:00

As we love to have a comfortable place to sleep so do the animals. So there are various types of beds for the pets to give them a comfortable sleep. Most of us have the dog as a pet. For the pets we specially have these beds designed for their fullest comfort. This type of beds mainly includes the outdoors beds, luxury beds, and puppy beds. For the various types of dogs there are various types of beds like the large dog beds and the small dog beds. Whereas when we look out for a bed for a cat then there are various types of beds depending upon the breed and the size of the cat.

Comfort and luxury:

The beds not only provide comfort but also look great due to the material used. Some of the pet beds are made up of the micro velvet nylon. The specialty of this is that it is washable. Due to the flexibility of the pet bed it can be used in traveling. The other advantages of these beds are that the machine can wash it and the covers are also removable and replaceable. Pet beds are available in various colors.

Material used for the pet beds:

The material used is not just for comfort but for style also. There are various types and sizes of these pet beds. Some of the pet beds are rectangular in shape. The material used for the pet bed is polyfiber, which is washable and removable. There are various sizes of the beds right from small to extra large. Some pet beds are round in shape for the protection of the animal. These beds are used specially when the animal is small in size or by age. The thick inner cushion provides with the fullest comfort to the animal.

Other varieties of pet beds:

The other varieties of pet beds mainly include the ones with the shape of a doughnut while others are reversible. The reversible beds have an advantage that both sides can use them. The inner cushion is removable and it can be washed easily. Some of these pet beds have an additional advantage of a crate pad.

Bed for cats:

The beds for cats are mainly required so that they are shielded from the winter and protected from the floor, which is cold. Most of the cat beds are made specially considering the window or the porch. To make the cats more comfortable the beds have a system of heating. This controls the temperature of the bed and the cats are protected from cold.

Other advantages of the Pet beds:

The pet beds give the animals their own space and the house has a more organized look. These beds can be bought online also.

For more interesting articles about home improvement, home decor and generally anything that helps improve your home then please visit: <a target="_new" href="http://www.pokingaroundthehome.com">Poking Around The Home</a>

Why Does My Dog Have Bad Breath?

2009-01-15T09:30:00.001-08:00

"Doggy breath" ? that unpleasant odor emanating from the mouths of Rover and Boomer ? can be a signal of serious health problems.

A dog's mouth is his primary means of contact with the world around him. He uses his mouth to eat, to investigate and to communicate. The jaws are a powerful tool used to grind, gnaw, crush and carry. Keeping this part of your pet's body healthy is vital to his quality of life and longevity.

Fifty to eighty percent of all dogs suffer from periodontal disease. Tartar buildup is the primary cause. Just as in humans, small particles of food remain on the teeth after eating. If not removed, these particles decompose, causing the growth of bacteria that then forms plaque and tartar. As tartar grows, it literally pushes the gums away from the teeth which then loosen over time. Loose teeth reveal root sockets which can easily become infected. In untreated cases, the infection can travel from the root socket to the dog's bloodstream where the bacteria takes up residence in the kidney, liver and heart causing disease of these organs.

How do I recognize periodontal disease in my dog?

There are specific signs and symptoms that indicate mouth problems including a change in eating habits. While not all dogs suffering from periodontal disease change feeding habits, changes can be an indication of trouble. Pawing at the mouth, abnormal drooling, mouth tenderness, facial inflammation, obvious oral bleeding, sneezing, nasal discharge and swelling around the eyes are also indicators of mouth problems. The most obvious and usually the first sign of a problem, though, is that tale tell bad breath.

What can I do to prevent and/or treat my pet's periodontal disease?

The experts agree that a diet consisting of primarily soft canned food is not a good idea. "The buildup of plaque in pets' soft canned diets is very rapid," says R. Hines, DVM. Opinions differ on the tartar-removing properties of hard foods, but experts DO agree that crunchy, dry food does not adhere to the teeth as much and therefore tartar and plaque do not build up as quickly.

Besides diet, yearly dental checkups are advised. Even if you don't give annual vaccinations, regular oral exams by a professional can make a huge difference in your pet's health. Herbal supplements such as Echinacea and other herbal medicines can be used internally to improve immune system health. Herbs can also be used as a tea or mouthwash. (Our next newsletter will address the issue of herbs and our pets.)

If you do suspect periodontal disease already at work, do not hesitate to visit your veterinarian for a professional cleaning and possible antibiotic treatment if he detects an infection.

The most important thing you can do to protect your pet's dental health is to brush his teeth! Use a child's toothbrush and a toothpaste developed for pets. Your vet can advise on the best methods of training your dog to let you brush his teeth.

Good dental health and preventative care can add years to your dog's life and save him undue suffering from kidney, liver and heart disease. Its never too late to get started!

Looking for an all-natural dry food to benefit your pet's dental health? Take a look at Flint River Ranch, available from Barker and Friends at www.naturalbarker.com. Flint River Ranch's all natural ingredients promote good overall health with easily digestible kibble free of chemical preservatives and additives. Combining a healthy dry food, all natural treats from Barker and Friends at www.naturalbarker.com and regular dental exams can help your furry friend live a long and happy life.

An encouraging word:

"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the Lord, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." <BR> Jeremiah 29:11

Sherry Massey is the owner of a home-based natural dog treat bakery, Barker and Friends. Our goal is to not only provide you with the best all-natural treat and pet food on the market, but to share valuable information that will allow our furry loved ones to live longer, healthier and happier lives. Check our website at <a target="_new" href="http://www.naturalbarker.com">http://www.naturalbarker.com</a> or contact us at <a href="mailto:barkerandfriends@cox.net">barkerandfriends@cox.net</a>.

Five Snake Care Tips for Beginners

2009-01-15T06:30:00.001-08:00

If you're looking for an unusual, eye-catching pet, it's hard to go wrong with a snake. They're exotic enough to catch people's interest, yet hardy enough to require minimal care. Nevertheless, uninformed first-time owners tend to make some basic mistakes, some of which can be quite costly. Here are some simple tips that can help ensure the health of the snake and prevent a lot of aggravation as well.

1. First, take note of how large your snake can grow to be. Most North American varieties only grown to be about four feet long, which is a reasonable size. Don't let a pet store employee talk you into buying a Burmese python, since these critters can grow to be over thirty feet long, and will require huge cages and tremendous amounts of food. (And before you ask? No, most zoos will not accept these as donations.)

2. Don't scrimp on cage size. A cage that is too small can be very stressful and unhealthy to your pet. Pet store clerks will sometimes try to sell you caging that is inadequate in size, so don't fall into this trap. For adequate comfort, the combined length and width of the cage should at least match the snake's length. Snakes can grow fairly quickly, so don't forget to take that into account as well!

3. Do find out how docile that particular specimen is. Most non-venomous North American snakes are fairly docile, but if you're a first-time keeper, you should probably make sure that your prospective pet can be handled easily.

4. Make sure that you select a pet with a hearty appetite. Ball pythons, for example, make great pets-but they are notoriously finicky eaters. Corn snakes make great starter pets because they are exceedingly docile and aren't picky about what they eat.

5. Snakes-indeed, any reptile-can potentially spread salmonella. The risk involved is very small, but one should still play safe. This is especially true when young children or people with compromised immune systems are involved. Do read up on reptile hygiene and salmonella before purchasing your pet.

Obviously, these tips only constitute some basic advice. I recommend that all prospective owners should read up on snake care in general, as well as the specific needs of the species that they plan to purchase. A little bit of basic research can prevent a great deal of aggravation in the future.

About the Author:

V. Berba Velasco Jr., Ph.D. is a senior electrical and software engineer at Cellular Technology Ltd (<a target="_new" href="http://www.immunospot.com">http://www.immunospot.com</a>, <a target="_new" href="http://www.elispot-analyzers.de">http://www.elispot-analyzers.de</a>, <a target="_new" href="http://www.elispot.cn">http://www.elispot.cn</a>). The neighborhood children have referred to him as the "Crocodile Hunter" though, due to his impressive menagerie of snakes, lizards and tarantulas.

Goldfish Feeding Tips

2009-01-14T23:20:00.001-08:00

What's the best food for your Goldfish?

Goldfish need food that is a combination of carbohydrates and vitamins to help them grow and fight disease. They particularly need vitamin A to make their colors look bright. They do need protein but just about 12% so that they can build muscle. In the natural habitat, Goldfish mainly feed on plants. They eat a fiber diet that includes algae, grasses and aquatic plants in the natural environment. Thankfully you do not have to sweat much to provide them with the equivalent nutritional needs because you can get it off the shelf! These processed food available at pet stores include:

Flake food

This is one of the commonly available goldfish foods, especially made for them and it consists of brine shrimp. It is easily eaten by Goldfish and helps in avoiding a particularly fatal sickness called the Air Bladder Disease.

Pellet food

This is also flake food with brine shrimp but it's packaged as a pellet. The only problem with pellets is that it sometimes swells in the goldfish's stomach and makes it lose its balance. This is what is the Air Bladder disease.

Frozen food

This includes live food that is frozen. You have an array to choose from as in frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms or mosquito larvae. This will come frozen in slabs from which you have to break off bit-by-bit and hand-feed your goldfish. You can also opt for Freeze-dried foods, which includes Krill, Pacific plankton, brine shrimp and bloodworms.

Homemade food

If you really want to make the food for your goldfish and you have the time you can do so. You will find that their favorites are lettuce and peas. Take any type of lettuce, which would be easy for the goldfish to chew on and digest. Wash and rinse the lettuce in warm water and just clip it inside the tank with a lettuce clip. Do not cook the lettuce. As for the peas, cook them till they are soft and refrigerate them. At feeding time, peel off the skin and mash a pea between your fingers and drop it in the tank. Do make sure the peas are soft or you could end up bloating your goldfish. Goldfish enjoy plant food and that's why you can see them happily nibbling away at Anacharis and Romaine lettuce or pieces of cucumber and zucchini which you should make sure to clip on to the tank with a suction cup clip

Live foods

The live foods that goldfish can safely eat include Daphnia, Brine Shrimp, Tubiflex worms, Meal worms, Wax worms and Blood worms.

Special treat for your goldfish You can make a special "gel food" for your goldfish that's quite easy to do. This can be given to the goldfish along with the main staple as a once-in-a-while treat. Here's what you need will need: a packet of unflavored gelatin; an empty ice cube tray and a 2.5 oz jar of baby food in a vegetable flavor such as carrots, peas or green beans.

* Take ? cup cold water in a small saucepan and pour the contents of the packet of gelatin in the water and stir over low heat until the gelatin dissolves.

* Add ? cup water, stirring till it's well blended.

* Add the baby food and stir thoroughly.

* Now pour the mixture into an ice cube tray and let it cool for about half an hour.

* Refrigerate the mixture for a few hours till it solidifies.

When it's feeding time just pop out a cube, cut it into small strips and feed it to your goldfish! One tray is more than enough for two 4- to 5-inch goldfish for a week. Make sure you dump the leftovers after a week, as it's good to give them fresh stuff.

Whatever it is, you will find that your goldfish are not fussy eaters. They have a wide array of food to choose from and they can eat quite a lot, which you would need to regulate. You will need to remember that they are temperate fish that do not need a diet high in protein. Goldfish are classified as coldwater fish and, as a rule; do not need to eat a diet that is high in protein. What they need is a carbohydrate-rich diet with the adequate vitamins.

That is why the best option for Goldfish are the floating pellets or the flakes which are specially made for Goldfish and have all the necessary nutrients. Ask your goldfish dealer as well as other owners and decide on what is best for the goldfish.

Dane Stanton - <a target="_new" href="http://www.goldfish-secrets.com">www.goldfish-secrets.com</a>

Dane Stanton is an expert on goldfish health care. To visit his website visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.goldfish-secrets.com">http://www.goldfish-secrets.com</a> for more information on Goldfish care and other aquarium related topics. *Recommended*

Are Exotic Cats a Threat to Public Safety? Why Exotic Pets Are Not Dangerous

2009-01-14T22:40:00.001-08:00

Whether a dog, a person, or an exotic cat eventually injures someone depends on an uncertain balance of genetics, temperament, environment, and the unique circumstances they find themselves in.

This article may be reprinted in its entirety only. Permission is not granted to reproduce in edited form or to support the ending of exotic pet ownership.

Protecting the Smallest Member of Your Family: A Step-by-step Guide to Pet Insurance

2009-01-14T20:30:00.001-08:00

Let's face it ? Fido and Fluffy are an important part of your family. Do you want to have to assign a dollar value to them if they become sick or injured?

That may well be the case if you don't have pet health insurance. Rising veterinary costs mean that pet owners can pay hundreds ? and even thousands ? of dollars for their pets' health problems. As the bills stack up, uninsured pet owners must determine how much they are willing to spend on their animal friend. It can be a heartbreaking decision to make.

Much like insurance for health, cars and homes, pet insurance helps people put a little money away now to avoid a major payout later. Coverage and cost vary, so it's important to thoroughly research the options if you decide to insure your pet.

Step one: Determine if Pet Insurance is Right for You

When people decide to get a pet, they often don't consider how they will deal with the inevitable unexpected illnesses or accidents. Keeping a pet indoors by no means eliminates all the hazards. They can still swallow foreign objects, ingest a poison or injure themselves. As well, living indoors does not make a pet immune to disease and infection ? particularly those that are common to their breed. Pets with access to the outdoors have even more opportunities to pick up a disease or get hurt.

Don't have a dog or cat? Insurance companies are starting to offer plans that meet the needs of a variety of pet owners. Some now offer coverage for birds and exotic animals.

Not all owners are good candidates for pet insurance, however. Pet insurance is ideal for owners who deeply love their pets and are willing to spend a significant amount of money to keep them healthy and extend their life. They buy their cherished companions the best food and care they can afford, sometimes even putting their pets' needs before their own. For this type of owner, pet insurance can be a smart investment that can prevent considerable costs and bring peace of mind.

Pet insurance is not a good investment for owners who don't have a strong emotional tie to their pet. Owners who would rather have their pets euthanized than spend money on vet bills are not good candidates for pet insurance.

Step two: Decide What Type of Coverage You Want

Most pet owners will weigh two main considerations when shopping for pet insurance: budget and coverage. Peace of mind can also be an important factor, but far more difficult to quantify.

Pet health insurance is still relatively new in the United States and Canada, so the options available are fewer than for other forms of insurance. That said, North American pet owners can choose from a variety of coverage choices, ranging from injury/accident-only to all-inclusive.

As with all insurance products, the cost of pet insurance increases as the coverage improves. As a pet owner, you must decide what is the right balance between affordability and the care you want for your pet.

- Coverage

When choosing pet insurance coverage, first consider what kind of insurance customer you are. Do you prefer all-inclusive coverage that pays for everything from routine checkups and vaccinations to accidents and chronic illnesses, or are you comfortable with a lesser degree of coverage that just kicks in during emergencies? Perhaps you prefer a flexible plan that offers discounts on a wide range of services, from veterinary care to training. This decision will lay the groundwork for your final choice.

Some issues to consider:

* Make sure to check for coverage of pre-existing conditions as well as breed-specific genetic ailments, such as hip dysplasia for large dogs. Some plans refuse to cover these conditions.

* Some plans place limits on annual, per-incident, per-illness or lifetime costs.

* How old is your pet? Coverage usually starts at eight weeks, but some plans won't cover pets over a certain age (usually between six and 10 years old, depending on the breed, type of animal and other factors).

- Cost

Payment options for pet insurance include flat fees or deductibles and/or co-payments. Not surprisingly, plans with lower monthly premiums come with higher deductibles and/or larger co-payments.

Some issues to consider:

* Insurance premiums are affected by the age, health and breed of your pet, as well as the type of animal.

* Some plans offers discounts for multiple pets.

* Plans generally require customers to pay the vet bill first and then submit receipts for reimbursement.

* Find out if the insurance premiums will increase as your pet ages.

* Depending on the plan you choose, the monthly premiums can range from less than $10 to about $40.

Step three: Choose an Insurer You've determined what you can afford to spend and the amount of pet insurance coverage you want.

Before selecting an insurer, here are some final considerations:

* Make a list of your questions and priorities in advance. Make sure to answer or check off each item when reviewing plan options.

* Research the insurer thoroughly. Review its website and sales materials, read its testimonials, talk to other pet owners and look for on-line reviews. How long has the company been in business? Are its customers satisfied? Make sure you feel comfortable about everything you hear or read.

* Compare the plan's benefit schedule with your vet's fees to determine to what degree the plan will cover the actual treatment costs.

* Find out how quickly the insurance company reimburses customers' claim payments and if it has claim deadlines.

* Read the fine print. Make sure you completely understand the plan's benefits and, more importantly, the limitations. If something isn't clear, ask ? and get the answer in writing. Otherwise, you might find you don't have the coverage you need if an accident occurs.

* Start a file for your pet. Use it for all receipts and insurance paperwork so you can keep on top of your claims and make sure you are maximizing your insurance investment.

Your responsibility as a pet owner doesn't end with food, shelter and affection. Pet health insurance can give the smallest member of your family a longer and healthier life ? and provide you with more time to enjoy the unconditional love it so willingly offers to you.

Burke Jones is a frequent contributor to <a target="_new" href="http://www.pet-health-depot.com">Pet Health Depot</a>.

How To Stop Your Horse From Rearing And What To Do If He Does It Unexpectedly

2009-01-13T23:10:00.000-08:00

There is a dangerous problem that horse owners should be very aware of. It's when a horse stands up on his back legs. It's called "rearing." This problem can be quite dangerous and cause severe injuries to the rider and/or horse.

Rearing is perhaps a horse's most effective defense against the rider. It is dangerous in that the horse can fall over backward onto its rider. Because of a horse's enormous weight this can cripple and even kill the rider. Thus, it is good to know why, if possible, a horse rears. But even more importantly, how to stop it.

If your horse ever does rear with you on him, there isn't much you can do. If he rears suddenly, he could lose his balance and fall or he could rear so explosively that he can throw himself back to the ground with the rider under him. If you're on him while this is happening and you use the reins to pull on to keep from falling, you're likely to pull the horse over.

Although it's not one hundred percent infallible, the best way to protect yourself when a horse rears with you is to lean forward immediately and put your hands forward so you have loose reins. If you have to, you could even put your arms around his neck, let go of the reins and slide off. For my money, there aren't any other safer ways to deal with a horse if he suddenly rears.

Why do horses rear? There are several reasons why. Here are some examples.

I've read where a rider was on an obedient horse while trail riding. They came upon cows and it scared the horse because the horse was not used to cows. The rider tried to get the horse to go toward the cows to get it to learn that cows are not spooky. The horse obeyed and went forward but finally became so frightened that it reared up, lost balance, and fell on its rider. The rider suffered numerous broken bones.

The rider later understood the horse felt trapped. The horse obediently went forward even though it was frightened. As it got closer, fear overpowered the horse and it had nowhere to go but up.

Some horses rear because as colts they were too young to be ridden. Another reason rearing happens is because training may confuse the horse. The horse may be asked to do too much at one time and not know what to do.

Sometimes a horse will rear if it is forced to yield to the bit. Other horses may rear if you try to get them to put out more energy than they can. On the opposite end, some horses may rear because they want to go and you don't let them.

So how do you stop a horse from rearing?

First, let's take a look at the anatomy of a horse while it rears. A horse cannot rear while running. A horse must stop (or be barely moving) to be able to rear. If a rider has had enough experience on a horse he can feel when the horse gets light in the front. In a way, it would be a bit like sitting in the middle of a teeter-totter where you can feel one side getting light.

So, if a horse has to stop to rear up then it makes sense to keep the horse moving so it cannot rear up. Thus, if you feel your horse getting light in the front then you move him forward and do it with meaning. Not just a patient "cluck" from your mouth. Do it like you mean it. And it's also important he has a place to go forward ? don't have him blocked in by anything.

If your horse rears up and you weren't ready for it then lean forward and give your horse loose reins. As soon as your horse's feet are almost back to the ground then make your horse go forward. Let the horse know, with no doubt whatsoever, to go forward. Boot the horse "hard" into going forward. When your horse has gone forward a little ways then double him and drive him forward out of the double. Then double him the other way and drive him forward from it also. Then bring your horse to a stop.

What does it mean to "double" your horse? Essentially, you will pull his head back one way towards his hind quarters. The moment he is committed to the turn then boot him forward. This impresses upon your horses mind that you can control him.

Other so-called "schools of thought" to stop rearing are to hit a horse over the head with a two-by-four when he rears up. I've even read where people break beer bottles over the horse's head. Some people use the handle end of a riding crop. Not only are these inhumane ways to stop rearing, they are rarely, if ever, effective. They don't teach a horse anything except to fear the rider. Hitting a horse over the head when you are trying to build a trust relationship will destroy all you've worked for.

As is almost always the case, the best way to get a horse to do what you want is to use psychology of the horse. Get him to move and you can accomplish miracles.

About The Author

Humming Birds Make Wonderful Pets

2009-01-13T15:40:00.001-08:00

Humming birds are wonderful birds that are smart, playful, and easy to take care. Many new bird owners are surprised by the intelligence that many birds show. They are also very playful. Make sure you do research on all of the different types of birds. Some types of humming birds are more expensive and require more care than do others.

Fortunately, most humming birds require only a little care. If your bird will be alone for most the day, consider buying two birds, so they can keep each other company. Also, bird toys will help pass the time. Birds have advantages over other pets in that they require only a little space for their cage, will never have trouble with ticks or fleas, and will never cut or scratch anybody.

How to take care of your Humming Birds.

Humming birds require a few basic supplies. The most important is the bird cage. Make sure that your bird cage is large enough for your humming bird to move freely around. No humming bird will be happy if it always cramped. Also, make sure to buy healthy bird food. Be aware that some types of bird food are made for only certain birds. If you are unsure of what type of bird food is right for your humming bird, contact your veterinarian.

Although humming birds are usually resistant to diseases, they do sometimes become ill. If you notice that a humming bird is ill, contact your veterinarian immediately. Also, quarantine it from any other humming birds you, to prevent the spread of the disease. If you take proper care of your humming bird, it will be a friend of yours for years to come.

About The Author

Mike Yeager, Publisher - <a href="http://www.a1-vacations-4u.com/" target="_new">http://www.a1-vacations-4u.com/</a>

<a href="mailto:mjy610@hotmail.com">mjy610@hotmail.com</a>

The Artful Dog Shopper

2009-01-13T14:50:00.001-08:00

I am a dog lover by nature. I have just always loved the little four legged fur balls.

Another thing I have always loved is animal art. It could be photographs, paintings, statues or even dog cartoons.

I don't really know why I like them, but I do. I've noticed there are a lot of other animal art lovers out there too. It seems to be a natural connection.

People with children often have a ton of pictures of thier children. People with pets are not that different. They see the beauty in animals and want to have it to look at.

So how can we take this knowledge and turn it into a great gift idea? Well, there are a few different things that come to mind here.

One I like is getting a great picture of the dog you love and converting it to a black and white picture, then framing it and putting an inscription on the frame.

Now this can be done from you to the pet owner, on behalf of the dog, with something like. "John, I'll always be your loyal friend. Love, Rocky."

Or if it's for you, you could put something like, "This is my faithful watch dog, Bessie."

Or, if you have lost your beloved companion, as we did last year, you could write something like, "In loving memory of Lucky. The best bird dog a guy could have."

In either instance, you could certainly put whatever you think suits the receiver best, those are just some examples.

Our favorite picture is of our late but beautiful yellow Labrador, Lucky. She was out in the field with my husband one day and had been searching and searching for a mallard lost in the tules.

When my husband was ready to give up and call her back, she brought in one of the prettiest birds you ever saw, and she was so proud. The picture was snapped and now is forever matted in the most appropriate frame: A ceramic model with a yellow dog chasing some flying mallards.

Go get 'em, Lucky.

Tina Spriggs

<a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-gifts-and-toys-for-dog-lovers.com">http://www.dog-gifts-and-toys-for-dog-lovers.com</a>
Sign up for Dog Lovers Newsletter <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-gifts-and-toys-for-dog-lovers.com/dog-lovers-newsletter.html"> here.</a> Get some great information on what makes the best dog gifts, tips on dog care and nice dog stories.

Vet Check - Well-Bird Check Up

2009-01-13T03:00:00.001-08:00

I know there are differing opinions on the subject of well-bird check ups. Some people believe in having your apparently healthy parrot checked out once a year by a qualified avian vet, while others claim that taking a health bird into a vet office exposes them to "germies" they might not otherwise be exposed to. I am not going to lecture you on either. That is your choice. I am lucky enough to have a mobile avian vet that visits my house and I do have my parrots checked out once a year. But, you do what you think is right.

If you do take your bird in for a well bird check-up, here are some things that should be included:

Visual check: Looking at the ears, eyes, nose, mouth, etc. and making sure things appear as they should.

The touchy feely test: Feeling the bird to see if there are any lumps or other abnormalities the vet can feel.

Weight: Weight should be taken, in grams, every time.

Grooming: Wing and Nail trims, if needed.

Gram stain: The poop test ? to make sure there are no bad things in the poopie.

Blood Work: Maybe. Possibly a chlamydia blood test and a complete blood panel. You don't have to have these done every time. Ask your vet their opinion. Sometimes the vet may recommend more specific tests. And, just for the record, the bird does not have to be given anesthesia or "put under" to take a simple blood sample.

Ask Questions: Be sure to discuss any changes in behavior, health or diet related issues.

If your bird is not acting right, is tired a lot, lethargic, isn't eating like normal, has a nasal or eye discharge, or just sits there all "poofed" out, you need to get to an avian vet as fast as you can. I mean today ? not tomorrow. Better to be safe than sorry. So, repeat after me, "If my bird looks or acts sick, I will RUN not walk to my avian veterinarian." Birds generally do not look or act sick until they are REALLY sick. They can take a turn for the worst very quickly.

Finding a vet
If you do not already have an avian vet, look in your local phone directory. Give them a call and see how many birds they treat. I know of several that advertise that they treat birds but only see a few per year.

You can also use these site to find an avian vet in your area.

The Association of Avian Veterinarians - Searchable http://www.aav.org/vet-lookup/

The Association of Avian Veterinarians ? more complete listing http://www.aav.org/activemembers.html

The directory at Birds n Ways American Board of Veterinary Practitioners, Certified in Avian Practice: http://www.birdsnways.com/articles/abvpvets.htm

Your Parrot Place
Taylor Knight is President of Your Parrot Place, providers of the highest quality parrot food, toys, cages and supplies available. <a target="_new" href="http://1mc.tmkhosting.com/track.php?action=mtrack&id=3&track=28">YourParrotPlace.com</a> - Only the Best for Your Parrot!

Free Parrot eBook
140 pages of parrot tips, information, nutrition advice, safety and more! <a target="_new" href="http://1mc.tmkhosting.com/track.php?action=mtrack&id=3&track=29">http://www.yourparrotplace.com/ebooks/ypp2004ebook.htm</a>

How To Avoid Bad Doggy Behavior, And Teach Your Puppy Some Manners

2009-01-12T13:50:00.001-08:00

A poorly trained dog can embarrass its owner and offend other people - or even make them feel threatened.

Teaching your dog some manners is just common-sense. You did it with your children and your parents did it with you. If you had never learned right from wrong you would be behaving badly so why expect to be able to raise a dog without any coaching? He has lots to learn.

There's a popular saying among dog trainers: "There's no such thing as a bad dog." While that may be true, any trainer will admit that there are dogs with very bad habits. When a dog acts or reacts to a situation in a way that has a negative impact on her owner or others, the behavior is considered to be "bad." Yet, to the dog, it's just what she does. Stopping bad behavior requires training to give the dog a new behavior, or habit.

One of the most common bad behaviors is jumping up on people. This habit is established when a dog is a puppy. Puppies jump at their mother to get her attention so she will feed them. Dog owners find it adorable that their puppy works so hard to get their attention as she jumps. The naive owners come down to the dog's level or pick the puppy up, not realizing they have just rewarded the dog for jumping and barking. A sharp 'NO' will stop the jumping. Also, ignore the dog and avoid eye contact when she jumps to discourage such behavior.

Unfortunately, behavior that is cute in a puppy often becomes annoying in an adult dog. Large dogs that jump on people for attention easily knock down and accidentally injure children and older people. Small dogs have less ability to injure someone, but usually dirty clothes and snag stockings. In both cases, while you might not mind your dog jumping up on you, other people probably don't feel the same way. Training your dog to sit to be petted is the easiest way to break the jumping habit. To help her develop the "sit for attention" habit, you must ignore her when she jumps on you. You might turn your back or simply walk away. If she follows you, turn quickly and tell her to sit. If she does, pet and praise her. You can reinforce this behavior by having her sit before you put her food bowl down. Every time she sits, she gets a reward of either attention or food. Every time she jumps she gets nothing.

Another sign that your dog has too much energy is chasing cars. A dog's natural instinct is to protect her area, and a car can be seen as a predator. Your dog should be kept securely in the yard when you are not around. When around cars you should keep your dog on a leash. If your dog tries to chase a car give her a sharp yank on the leash and say no. When your dog resists the chance to chase a car, lavish her with praise.

Another unpopular behavior is chewing. Destructive chewing is most often an indication your dog is bored. If your dog chews up the couch cushions or destroys a wicker chair while you are at work, it is probably because she had nothing else to do. If you look up from a book or television to find your dog chewing on your favorite shoes, realize that she is releasing pent-up energy. Give your dog the chance to exercise her body and brain. Plenty of physical exercise will tire her out so that she naps while you relax. Pet supply stores carry a variety of toys that provide mental stimulation-doggie puzzles to keep your pooch busy while you're away. Also, if your dog is a chewer, make sure you give her chewing toys of her own. It is never a good idea to give your dog an old shoe or sock to chew on; she can't tell the difference between your favorites and your discards and they all smell like you.

Using an anti-chew spray such as bitter apple (which dogs hate, and which are available from pet stores) work well. There are certain odors that dogs hate.

Taking these few simple steps will improve your dog's life a great deal.

Best Pet Health Information is a resource which will help you find infomation, hints and tips to <a target="_new" href="http://www.best-pet-health.info">keep your dog happy and healthy</a>.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.best-pet-health.info">http://www.best-pet-health.info</a> Copyright ? Best-Pet-Health.info. All rights reserved. This article may be reprinted in full so long as the resource box and the live links are included intact.

Whats the Best Diet for a Pregnant Cat?

2009-01-12T12:20:00.001-08:00

Pregnant cats have to eat for two, three, four, five, even six cats. So her regular meal is just not enough. What should you give instead?

Pregnant and lactating queens need more calories than normal. However, you won't have to force her to eat. Cats are very intelligent animals. They know when they have to eat and how much.

Don't get worried if your cat's appetite decreases in the very early stages of pregnancy. Soon her appetite will increase, and this time dramatically.

The quality of the food is essential. Of course you should always give your cat a nutritionally balanced meal, but this time it's even more important than usual. You are not feeding one cat anymore, but a few (soon-to-be) kittens as well!

It's recommended to buy food from a pet store. Most experienced breeders agree that kitten food is the best for your pregnant cat ? yes, even when the kittens are not there yet. Why? Because kitten food contains more calories and protein, and that's just what your queen needs.

Gradually start mixing your cat's regular food with this high-quality kitten food you found in your pet store. Add more kitten food every week. During the week of birth your queen should eat only kitten food.

Some breeders also serve raw meat and say that's good for a pregnant cat as well. However, there is some controversy about this.

About 24 to 48 hours before delivery a pregnant queen will refuse food. Her appetite should return within one day after she gave birth.

Keep her on a kitten food diet until the kittens are weaned.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Journalist Marc de Jong is a long-time cat lover and owner of a popular web site on cats. More in-depth information about food for kittens and pregnant cats is found in his ebook How To Take Care Of Your Pregnant Cat, available through <A target="_new" href="http://www.pregnant-cat-care.com">http://www.pregnant-cat-care.com</A>.

How Do Your Customer View Your Pet Business?

2009-01-11T22:00:00.001-08:00

There are thousands of local and online Pet Stores but most people only know about Petco and PetsMart. The reason these businesses have succeed is because of consistent advertising so the customer does not forget their name (brand). Branding is the key to success of any business regardless of size.

A brand is your organization's personality. Without a brand you're only a small business. You need to start with targeting your potential customer base. If you provide a Pet Sitting service, make sure people in your area know about you. Try to take advantage of all possible advertising opportunities. Have good references ready for potential customers. People feel more comfortable with the businesses who provide customer feedbacks.

Try different marketing strategies before you decide on one. Measure your advertising performance periodically and make changes accordingly. Try to advertise on media that provide you longer visibility. For example, it is better to advertise in Yellow Pages or Online Business Directory who provide one year listing than your one time ad in the Newspaper.

Other thing you could do is, study marketing strategies for big businesses who are successful. You may not be able to spend same money as big businesses but it could give you enough information to make the right marketing decisions. Based on the Overture keyword tool, there were 3,95,015 searches performed for the keyword "Pet Supply" in the month of May 2005. This information is to give you an idea that people are looking for your products or services, but they should be able to find you. This can be done with branding your business.

Courtesy of <a target="_new" href="http://www.petboro.com">Petboro.com</a> - Gateway to the local pet community!

Dog Pile - Please Pick It Up

2009-01-11T03:10:00.001-08:00

I really do not hope your are eating something, but did you know that you can get a fake dog pile in long or round bits for a joke. My younger son had initiated this research of mine, by asking why I pick up the dog's business, even though he had done it on the grass.

As a slight diversion, I found out that the meaning of pepper - our westie dog -is "An animal full of zip" Believe he has plenty of zip if you are trying to get him into the bath.

To get back to the topic in hand (sorry that was a bad turn of phase), please be responsible and try and clean up after your dog. There are a number of diseases and illnesses that can be caused by contact with dog poo. One is stomach upsets, but the most important is Toxocariasis.

Toxacra can infect young children, if they play in an area, which has been infected by dogs, and they then put their fingers in their mouths. The infection is very serious and can cause eyesight damage or even blindness. Although, the Toxacra infection is very rare, even one case is one too many.

So please help by worming your West highland white terrier (westie) on a regular basis and also disposing of dog poo quickly and safety.

One again, apologies if this subject hasn't spoiled your food. Please appreciate the serious issues involved.

I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

Good health and happiness

Jeff Cuckson
<a href="mailto:webmaster@madaboutwesties.com">webmaster@madaboutwesties.com</a>

Want To Know How To Have The Healthiest,
Happiest and Most Well Behaved Westie You
Have Ever Dreamed Of! Then Visit NOW!
<a target="_new" href="http://www.madaboutwesties.com">http://www.madaboutwesties.com</a>

Does Your Dog Have Allergies?

2009-01-10T22:30:00.001-08:00

Many people don't realize that their dogs, just like human beings, can suffer from allergies. In fact, about twenty percent of the dogs in the United States alone suffer from one allergy or another, with flea allergy dermatitis being the most common form of allergies in dogs. Other types include atopic dermatitis, food allergies, and inhalant allergies.

Signs and symptoms of dog allergies may vary but are often marked by persistent itching and discoloration of the skin (most common in skin allergies), coughing, sneezing, wheezing, and mucus discharge (most common in inhalant allergies), and nausea, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea (common to food allergies and other ailments.)

Over-the-counter preparations and treatments for common dog allergies exist and may be purchased at any good pet supply store, but care should be taken when choosing such treatments. Consultation with a vet is the best first course of action for several reasons. First of all, what you think is an allergic reaction may actually be signs of a more serious ailment and a vet should be the one to determine whether that is the case. Secondly, if the allergy is severe enough, over-the-counter treatments may not be sufficient to treat the symptoms and a prescription strength treatment may be required. There is also the chance that the dog does not have an allergy at all. The last thing you want to do is medicate your pet unnecessarily.

If you do think your dog has some type of allergy, consult your vet. The doctor will be able to perform tests to determine whether an allergic condition exists, how severe it is, and what the proper treatment will be. If the dog has an allergy to certain foods, it will be imperative to restrict the animal's diet to eliminate those items that cause a reaction. The vet's testing methods can help to determine whether this type of allergy exists as well. If the dog has flea allergy dermatitis (an allergic reaction to the saliva of fleas, rather than to the insects themselves), an extreme flea prevention regimen will be recommended.

Just like humans, dogs that suffer from various allergies can live comfortably with them if they are detected and treated properly. It is important to keep in mind that this is not a time to "play doctor" by attempting to diagnose and treat a possible allergic condition yourself. Only your veterinarian is qualified to determine whether your dog is suffering from allergies and what course of action to take.

This article may be published in it's entirety provided an active (clickable) link to <a target="_new" href="http://DogBlog.thynke.com">http://DogBlog.thynke.com</a> is included along with the "About the Author" resource box.

Mike Nalbone is the publisher of The Dog Blog at: <a target="_new" href="http://DogBlog.thynke.com">http://DogBlog.thynke.com</a>

Amazing Insights Of A Horse Training Expert From The Late 1800s!

2009-01-10T12:30:00.001-08:00

Could a horse trainer, born about 154 years ago, teach us anything new today? Would the methods be old hat or would they be useful?

The answer is a resounding Yes!, they are enormously useful.

The horse training expert referred to is named Jesse Beery. Beery was a world famous horse trainer from the late 1800's who possessed amazing ability with horses.

Fortunately, Beery's secrets remain after all these years. His information can be found in his book he wrote in the late 1800's. However, very few copies of his book exist. It is virtually impossible to find an original - much less one that is readable.

Here is a partial reading from the first chapter of Beery's book:

Fear is the principal motive which causes the colt to resist training. It is natural for him to kick against an unknown object at his heels, to pull his head out of the halter as from a trap, and if of a bad disposition, to strike and bite if he does not thoroughly understand you.

His fear is governed by his sense of touch, sight and hearing; and it is through these senses we obtain a mastery, and at the same time remove his fears of the halter, the robe, the harness and the wagon. These are the fixed laws which govern the actions of all horses, and the training of a colt is merely teaching him not to fear the working apparatus, but to respect his master, and to obey his commands as soon as he has learned their meaning.

Each one of these senses must be educated before the colt is trained. A colt's education may be compared with that of a child to a great extent. A horse's reasoning powers are limited to his past experience. So we must reason with him by acts alone. Hence the importance of beginning every step with the colt right; for by our acts he learns.

The successful school-master aims first to teach the child to have confidence in him. Hence the first lesson we give the colt is simply to teach it to have confidence in us and that we are its best friend and don't intend to hurt it.

The book continues with the first lesson a colt is to have which is

"How to gain a colt's confidence."

Fortunately, horse trainer Andy Curry discovered a legible copy and made it available for horse owners who want to learn this incredible information.

Andy Curry encourages responsible horse owners to check into Jesse Beery's book and learn what it has to teach.

About The Author

The Demand for Luxury Dog Beds

2009-01-09T19:50:00.001-08:00

A pet can be as important a member of the family as a child to some owners, and making sure they sleep well is a way to express that affection. In the past several years, manufacturers have started to fill a growing demand for luxury dog beds for pet owners who wanted to lavish something special on their pets. With the advent of organic pet foods, pet clothing and nutritionally balanced pet treats, designer dog beds seemed like an idea whose time had come.

Do you share your pet with someone else or move her around to different locations? Try the Botanical Bed, a portable pet sofa with lockable wheels, reversible blanket and a flower-patterned pillow. Need a fancy dog bed for a big guy who likes to loll around in different positions, flopping his head and tail over the edge as he does? Try an extra large donut bed in any one of dozens of easy to clean, designer fabrics and a variety of fills from gel to memory foam to cedar. Does your large dog stretch out on your favorite sofa, especially during your favorite prime time TV shows? Induce him to change his ways with the European Sofa Luxury Dog Bed complete with throw pillows and maybe he'll leave your sofa to you.

Then there are designer dog beds with industrial strength canvas covers stretched over high-grade "memory" virgin upholstery fiber with advanced Velcro systems to remove, wash and transport your dog's bed wherever you may go. They come with polypropylene insert liners in case of any accidents, and are completely machine washable to keep them soft and clean for your pet's entire life.

You'll find luxury dog beds with multiple use features and more accessories than you could possibly imagine at many of the better pet shops around your town. Or if you can't find that perfect designer dog bed around your town, there are even more options if you check the Internet. With the vast selection out there, chances are you'll be able to find just what you are looking for.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.e-dogbeds.com">Dog Beds Info</a> provides detailed information about small and large dog beds, as well as designer, orthopedic, and discount dog beds. Dog Beds Info is the sister site of <a target="_new" href="http://www.e-birdcages.com">Bird Cages Web</a>.

Why Exotic Pets Should Not Be Banned

2009-01-09T00:00:00.000-08:00

We all know how special interest groups can blow things out of proportion ? like the nonexistent "Exotic Pet Crisis." If you listened to some animal rights groups, you'd think keeping exotic pets is cruel, dangerous, and even bordering on treason! Before you buy that agenda, consider that a junior high student once made a convincing case for banning dihydrogen monoxide: colorless, odorless, and tasteless, it kills thousands of people every year.

Most deaths are caused by inhalation, but the dangers of dihydrogen monoxide do not end there. Prolonged exposure to its solid form causes severe tissue damage. Dihydrogen monoxide is also known as hydroxl acid, is the major component of acid rain, may cause severe burns, contributes to land erosion, may cause electrical failures and decreased effectiveness of automobile brakes, and has been found in excised tumors of terminal cancer patients.

This report was presented to 50 students, asking them what should be done about the chemical. 43 students favored banning it, 6 were undecided, and only one correctly recognized that 'dihydrogen monoxide' is actually H2O -- plain old water. How gullible are you?

Banning my cat makes about as much sense as banning yours ? and the results are just as heartbreaking for pet and owner. Are you ready for the truth about the "Exotic Pet Crisis?"

<ul> <li>Exotic pets are not dangerous! One study showed that the risk of injury to exotic cat owners was less than the risk of injury due to a domestic dog bite. And every person who drives a motor vehicle subjects themselves and their family to a risk three times greater then does someone who owns even a large exotic cat such as a tiger.

<li>Most exotic pet owners are kind, intelligent people who adore their animals and take excellent care of them. We love our pets just as you love yours.

<li>Exotic animal bans result in beloved pets being confiscated, impounded, and usually killed. A lucky few live out their lives in cages under the care of strangers in zoos and sanctuaries. This is the dirty secret animal rights groups don't want you to know. Banning does not help animals: it kills them!

<li>Exotic cat ownership is already regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the U.S. Department of Interior, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, CITES, the Animal Welfare Act, the Endangered Species Act, the Lacey Act, more city, county, and state regulations than you can shake a stick at, as well as existing animal welfare and public safety laws that govern both exotic and domestic animals.

<li>"You can buy a tiger on the Internet for $100.00," research-averse activists proclaim in horror. Just try to order up a tiger online, or even a serval. You won't succeed. This urban legend has great repeatability at cocktail parties and save-the-cute-animals-from-evil-humans fundraisers, but is severely lacking in the reality department. Breeders do have web sites, but it takes much more than a click of the mouse to purchase an exotic cat.

</ul>

This article may be reprinted in its entirety only. Permission is not granted to reproduce in edited form or to support the ending of exotic pet ownership.

How To Find a Lost Cat

2009-01-08T19:30:00.001-08:00

Losing your cat is a worrying experience, use these 'How to find a lost cat' steps, and try to stay calm. Remember that most lost cats have not run away from home, we all know about cats and curiosity.

The first place you will want to search for your lost cat is right inside your home. It may seem obvious but make sure that your cat is not shut in a room, less obvious check washing machines, clothes dryers, dish washers, even refrigerators. Check garden sheds, garages, basements and attics, look up trees. An injured cat will hide anywhere, and will not always respond to your calling, so search every possible space, under furniture, in boxes, any conceivable space that your cat could have crawled into.

Next check with your immediate neighbors, ask them to check their sheds, garages, etc. Ask local children if they have seen your cat, when and where they last saw it, ask if they know of any places that your cat could be hiding. If the children are old enough, and with their parents permission, ask them to help find your lost cat.

Ask people who are regularly outside your home, joggers, postal workers, people walking dogs, moms taking kids to school, if they have seen your cat. Show them a photograph if possible.

It is a good idea to make a search to find a lost cat at night, but not alone - have someone with you.

Have you, or your neighbors, had anything delivered? It has been known for cats to climb into the backs of vehicles and get driven off, phone the company and see if they know anything. Have you recently moved? Check your old address, if it is a distance, phone your old neighbors ask them to let you know if they should find your lost cat.

Post flyers, preferably with a photograph, all around your neighborhood. Make the flyers stand out somehow, use brightly colored paper if possible. Do not publish your name and address, just your phone number, if you offer a reward do not state the amount. Don't forget to go back frequently and check that the flyers are still there, sometimes people take them down. Leave flyers at your local post office, pet supplies store, laundromat, gas station, animal shelter and veterinary. Consider placing a 'Lost Cat' classified ad. in your local newspaper.

Return to the same spots that you have already investigated and search again and again. Call back to the animal shelters and animal control agencies, in person - do not rely on telephoning. Do not shrink from checking with the highway department and any other agency that deals with road kills, you would rather know if the worst has happened.

Finally have hope, cats are tough creatures and can last for some time without food and water. It is not too unusual for lost cats to be reunited with their owners after being missing for some months.

About The Author

If you have a pet related web site and you wish to reproduce the above article you are welcome to do so, provided the article is reproduced in its entirety, including this resource box and live link to <a href="http://www.best-cat-art.com" target="_new">http://www.best-cat-art.com</a>.

Cat art posters, art prints, cat calendars and cat collectibles. Great cat gifts for yourself or your cat loving friends.

The Importance Of A Proper Correction

2009-01-08T16:10:00.001-08:00

There are headstrong dogs that know too well that a verbal "no" from you is the worst that they're gonna get and this will quickly lead to them ignoring the handler. In the wild when one of the pack is out of line, he is corrected by the Alpha. Now if the dog knows what the correction is, then that is all and good, but seeing people correct their dog and the dog not being familiar with the correction and its purpose troubles me.

This is why I would prefer to teach the correction to the dog while teaching the heel command while walking on leash. If taught properly, the dog will quickly learn to associate undesirable as well as desirable heeling behavior. We must remember, at a young age, our dogs do not know what a negative behavior is. What they learn to be negative behavior, is what we instill in them. Usually our idea of negative behavior is the inability for the dog to perform the desired learned task, thus resulting in some sort of correction whether it be verbal or some other kind.

Top trainers will tell you to find what works best for your dog. No dog is the same, and while one may be very subject to verbalizing, another maybe of a more stubborn breed needing the actual physical contact to help achieve the desired result.

Personally I am now at the point with my dog where verbalizing my unhappiness with him will attain the desired result. My dog is a Lab, and being of a more placid breed, he is not head strong and he can be effected quite easily by rough treatment. However there are even times today when He will be distracted by something to the point where a firm correction is needed to retain his attention.

Adam Catz, is a Trainer working in the U.S. and he has written a book specifically dealing with aspects of dog training/behavior modification. He is a big advocate fore "tough love" and although I do not agree with some of his methods, he is very popular and has helped a lot of dog owners with problems that they were having with their dogs.

For more great <a target="_new" href="http://www.web-rover.com/forum/kb.php">Dog Articles</a> and tons of other great dog info, visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.web-rover.com">Dog forum</a> or visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.petsblogs.com">Pet blog</a>

How to Choose a Pet

2009-01-08T04:20:00.001-08:00

Did you know that pets outnumber people in the United States? Recent statistics have shown that 62% of homes have a pet, and that 46% of homes have more than one pet. That adds up to 380 million pets in a nation with a human population of 290 million people.

The first three categories are cats (78 million), dogs (65 million), and birds (18 million). Also popular are fish and small animals but their number is far behind the numbers of cats and dogs.

More and more people are buying pets because they realise the great advantages of having a pet, a pet is a great companion, a loyal friend and a part of the family. Since a pet has such an important role to play in your life it is important thinking hard to pick the right pet for you.

Carefully considering what pet you will get before getting it will pay off in the long run, that way you wont pick a pet you are incompatible with, you will get on well with your pet and you wont have problems with it in future. A poorly chosen pet may eventually have to leave, and the blame for the imcompatibility will be with you.

If you are choosing a pet the real choice you are probably making is whether to get a dog or a cat, perhaps you are considering a pet that requires less effort such as a fish or bird also. If you decide to opt for a dog you must then choose what breed of dog toget, with over 150 breeds you are spoiled for choice!

A dog will probably prove to be a better companion than a cat - it will be more of a friend, however a dog will also need more care than a cat. Dogs like to be around people whereas cats are more autonomous, they will generally spend their day off by themselves. Cats are more attracted to their home then to their owners generally.

You will need to carefully consider how much space you have, cats and dogd reuire quite a bit of space, so if you live in a small apartment then even a small breed of dog or a cat will feel restricted. If you have very little space perhaps you should go for a bird or fish, or may be a hamster?

Bear in mind that a dog cannot be left alone for very long, they need feeding, walking and attention. This may be a problem if you are away often and there is no one else around to mind the dog. Perhaps a kennel or neighbour would be available to care for the dog while you are away. Cats, though independent, do not like being left alone either although they can cope better than a dog.

Dogs need a lot of attention, they must be walked at least once or twice a day, on top of that they are full of energy and need space in which to live and play. Obviously the larger the breed of dog the more space it needs, large dogs such as shepherd dogs and Saint Bernards need a lot of space. Also consider how much your dog will eat - big dogs eat big meals!

Big dogs have the advantage that if trained properly, they can protect their owner and home, while small dogs (like poodles) are more like a joyful toy at home. Small dogs are also suitable for children or for elderly people, who do not have the energy to walk a dog for miles and miles.

No matter what pet you decide on, ensure you have thought your desision through properly, a badly chosen pet will be unhappy if it doesn't suit you, so pick carefully.

Alyssa Hallam is the webmaster and operator of AH <a target="_new" href="http://www.ahpet.com">Pet</a> Her site has a great collection of information on all different kinds of pets, including a free newsletter, pet resources and articles. For great pet information, go to: <a target="_new" href="http://www.ahpet.com">http://www.ahpet.com</a>

Dealing With your Pets Allergies

2009-01-08T01:30:00.000-08:00

It is Winter time again, a time of the year when pets and humans are very vulnerable to each other. As this is obviously the chilliest time of the year, animals are much more likely to be cooped up inside the house with us. All of the windows and doors are closed to the world and the heat is blasting around the clock.

These are precisely the conditions which make our winter homes playgrounds for some kinds of allergens. Our dogs and cats are considerably vulnerable to the dust in the carpet, the mold inside the walls of your old house and other pets. But warm moist times of the year are high allergy times as well. Allergies are simply the most common conditions affecting cats and according to the Kansas State University, 15% of dogs suffer from common allergies like pollen and house dust. An allergic reaction is the work of an overactive immune system. It is when an animal responds abnormally to a seemingly everyday substance like grass or general food ingredients.

Of the different kinds of allergies, contact allergies are the least common in cats and dogs. An Example of a contact allergen is a flea collar. Grass and various kinds of bedding such as wool are also examples. An Inhalant Allergy is the most common allergy for cats and is also prevalent in dogs. This particular kind of allergy is caused by the hypersensitivity of the immune system to environmental substances. A Flea Allergy is the single most common dog allergy but is also common cats. The normal dog or cat suffers only somewhat minor irritation in lieu of a flea bite with minimal itching.

A food allergy is also somehat common in pets. Cats often become allergic to their most common protein such as tuna. Dogs can be allergic to proteins like chicken and beef. When it comes to allergies, like most things it's a matter of controlling, not curing. Once an animal's body becomes hypersensitive to certain things, it is then eternally vulnerable to those things.

Regarding treatment of allergies, the most common treatments are topical products like shampoos or antihistamines. There are also certain supplements that you can give to your pets to help support

the insides of their bodies, which to an extent determine the condition of the outside. Studies have shown that if we shampoo our pets' coats on a regularl basis, it is much less likely that foreign substances will enter through the skin. Regular bathing discourages allergens -- irritants such as dander and dead hair. When our pets itch and injure their skin, it leaves their internal landscapes much more vulnerable to skin problems For additional Information visit

<A target="_new" HREF="http://www.dog-food-nutrition.info/">Dog Supplements from Life's Abundance</A> for help with your dog

Ryan Joseph is a writer/researcher of pet issues. For more info. visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.premium-cat-food.com/">http://www.premium-cat-food.com/</a>

Safety Tips for Moving With Pets

2009-01-07T23:10:00.001-08:00

What can you do?

1. Always use ID tags. When traveling, add an extra tag with your cell phone number. If you don't use a cell phone, add the number of a trusted friend who will be at home while you're on the road.

2. If your pets are microchipped, be sure to call and update your address and phone number. If they aren't microchipped, consider having it done.

5. If at all possible, contain your dogs in a carrier inside the car. This is a safety precaution for both you and the dog.

7. Take water and a water dish! When you reach for a drink remember your pet probably needs one too.

Moving day is a dangerous time for your pets. Take these additional precautions:

Containment: Do NOT try to keep an eye on the dog and cat and the moving all at the same time. Doors will be opening constantly and no one can watch every minute.

If you own a kennel cage, put it up first and put your dog inside until things settle down. Be sure to stop and talk to him now and then.

Anxiety:

All Natural Dog Cookies ? Because Your Dog?s Health and Happiness is So Important

2009-01-07T19:50:00.001-08:00

Traditionally, a doggie treat was just that, a treat that to be savored, which offered little or no health benefits. Chocolate is not a particularly healthy treat for dogs; in fact research has indicated that chocolate treats are even poisonous to dogs if fed in large quantities.

Given this, it is little wonder that natural dog cookies have become all the rage!

Natural Dog Cookie - The Basics

The basics of natural canine cookies are that they use entirely natural ingredients. Ingredients are also balanced in such a way that treats can be used as part of a broader, balanced diet. Cookies are a popular choice when it comes to natural treats, but there are also several other options.

Another popular choice is the natural range of dog foods. Instead of being treats, organic ranges are actually food that forms the main part of your dog's diet. By feeding organic and natural foods permanently, it is thought that your dog will have greater health and a longer life expectancy.

All Natural Dog Cookie - The Benefits

By using natural dog cookies as part of a diet, your dog can have regular treats that are actually good for him! Dog cookies can be used as part of a training regime as a reward for good behavior. With traditional treats, trainers were often reluctant to use them in abundance due to their potential health disadvantages. However, natural cookies do not have this downside and can be used much more liberally as part of any reward scheme.

Bearing this in mind, natural cookies are not a treat; they are an essential as part of your dog's ongoing health care. Go on - treat man's best friend!

Yoav Cohen is an author for <a target="_new" href="http://www.dog-boutiques.com">Healthy dog food</a> site called Dog Boutiques.

Boston Terrier - Special Concerns For This Adorable Breed

2009-01-07T11:50:00.001-08:00

Beautiful as they are, Boston Terriers have some genetic traits and defects that you must always be mindful of. In order to keep your dogs' health in tip-top condition and ensure that he leads a healthy and happy life, you must ensure that you are aware of the breeds special requirements and of potential dangers.

There are a fair few illnesses that a Boston, particularly a pure bred, is susceptible to. This is why you should ensure that you get your Boston from a good, reputable breeder who can tell you all about the dog and his family line. You would be surprised at how much your breeder has to do with the Boston's happiness and yours.

Some of these special concerns include:

Genetic illnesses such as: luxating patella (slipping kneecap), heart problems, mange, breathing problems, Cushings syndrome.

Extreme weather sensitivity: Bostons can suffer heat stroke if they are exposed for long periods to extreme heat, stuffiness and humidity. They are also sensitive to extreme cold and must not be exposed for long periods to this weather either. This is one of the reasons that this breed is classed as an indoor breed.

Wheezing: This is caused by the breeds short snout. Although this is part and parcel of a Boston Terrier, excessive wheezing should always be checked out by a vet. You should also take care not to expect excessive activity and exercise from your Boston because of this problem.

Eye problems: This is the result of the Bostons prominent eyes. They are susceptible to associated problems such as lacerations and infections, and must be closely monitored.

Although these concerns must be kept in mind at all times, you can get peace of mind with a little care and attention. Checking your dog on a weekly basis for abnormalities or defects will help to keep infections at bay. Being able to pick up on any alien behaviour from your dog will give you a clue if he is feeling unwell. And taking care in the summer and winter months will enable you to ensure that he is not exposed to temperatures that could prove dangerous to him.

Abhik Sarkar is the author of an invaluable resource for both new and current Boston Terrier owners, <a target="_new" href="http://www.boston-terrier-secrets.com">http://www.boston-terrier-secrets.com</a>

You can also sign up for an 8 part email course on this special breed by sending a blank email to <a href="mailto:boston-optin@getresponse.com">boston-optin@getresponse.com</a>

How To Install An Emergency Brake On Your Horse

2009-01-07T06:40:00.001-08:00

There is a way to temper your horse even if he spots something that scares him and he wants to run in fear. I call it, "Installing an emergency brake."

But you can't simply get on your horse and expect to pull his head back if he takes off. You must do some ground work first. And here's what you do.

Remember to do this on the other side of your horse too. What your horse can do on his left side, he should be able to do on his right side.

About The Author

Want to Feel Better? Go Stroke Your Cat!

2009-01-07T02:00:00.001-08:00

Stroking your cat can be good for your health! It has long been known that pet ownership is good for you, we all need someone or something to love. It is also believed that stroking a pet, such as a cat, reduces stress levels and helps you to have a more positive perspective on life.

Stroking a cat, and listening to the sound of its contented purring, reduces tension and lowers your blood pressure it is believed.

A study was made of a group of people before and after they acquired a pet, the majority reported that their health had improved in as little as three to nine months. The people who owned dogs reported the greatest health benefits, because of the exercise involved in walking the dog, but cat owners too said that they felt a lot better even though they were not so active.

Many senior citizens homes have "residential" cats, and staff report these pets as being of great benefit to the residents, helping them feel more comfortable and to remind them of normal home life. The physical contact with the pet can be therapeutic, and the activity needed to care for the cat gives the residences a sense of purpose. The need for medications falls quite substantially in nursing homes where there is a cat available for stroking, and the act of stroking can help recovery after an illness.

Of course, it is not only seniors that benefit from the company of a cat. Whatever your age sharing your home with a cat means that you will need the services of your doctor less often and be less likely to feel isolated or lonely. Children also benefit from having pets in the home. Studies have shown that many children believe that their cat helps them with their relationships with other family members and friends.

The American Journal of Cardiology published an article in 1995 attesting that those of us that own pets are more likely to make a recovery from a heart attack than non pet owners. One of the explanations for this was that stroking a pet releases endorphins into the brain calming the nervous system, and therefore lowering your heart rate.

So, if you want to feel better, forget about your favorite tipple, forget about chocolate, simply go stroke your cat.

About The Author

Greyhound Adoption ? Great Dogs, Great Cause

2009-01-06T02:20:00.001-08:00

History

Throughout the US and in many parts of the world, greyhounds are used as racing dogs to support gambling. In the United States alone, there are roughly 40 dog tracks and hundreds of puppy farms and training facilities around the country. Years ago, the greyhound industry was in much worse shape than it is today. Many tracks have established very good policies as well as "no kill" rules that help ensure the health and fate of the greyhounds. However, there are still thousands of greyhounds that after their racing days are in need of forever homes.

From Puppy to Adoption

Soon after greyhounds are born, they are sent to farms for training. They often remain in these training facilities until they are 18 months old. At this age, the dogs are introduced to the track and if they're fast enough, will often race until they are between 3-4 years old. Aft this, they are usually put up for adoption.

Personality

It's not enough to consider adopting a greyhound for humanitarian reasons alone. Think about the breed's characteristics to determine if it would be a good fit in your home. Greyhounds are very easy-going dogs. This might surprise you, since we're used to seeing greyhounds speeding around racing tracks reaching speeds of 40 mph. Despite this, greyhounds are normally good for only a few sprints per day. Otherwise, they are truly happy to relax around the house and casually play with a toy or a companion. The greyhound's docile personality is complemented by their loyalty, intelligence and excitement about simple things like taking nightly walks or seeing their owner return home from work.

Appearance

Greyhound come in a variety of colors including solid blue, white, black, red, fawn and combinations of these colors with spotted and brindle patterns. Male greyhounds generally weigh between 65-75 pounds and females tend to weigh between 55-65 pounds. Their sleek, athletic look should be maintained even as they enter retirement. Keeping a greyhound fit and trim should be relatively easy since their metabolism is quite fast and they don't tend to gain weight easily. Perhaps in part because of their great conditioning, greyhounds have long life expectancies for such large dogs, spanning between 12-15 years.

Availability

Greyhounds are available at shelters around the country ? many of which are associated with local racing tracks. Be sure to discuss your home situation with the director of the adoption facility. They'll want to know if you have cats at home, small dogs and very young children. Based on greyhounds' training and instinct, some maintain left over aggressiveness toward small animals. The facility's adoption director should be able to suggest a number of greyhounds that match well to your home life.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.thepetman.com/">http://www.thepetman.com/</a>

Dog Doors: Giving Your Pet Freedom to Come and Go as They Please Helps Solve Behavior Problems

2009-01-05T19:10:00.001-08:00

<h2>Dog Doors</h2>

When we think of dog doors, we think of flaps that allow dogs to trot on through. What a great convenience this can be for you and your pet. Allowing your pet this extra freedom can be exciting and it saves you the time of getting up and opening the door six times a day! But, we live in a modern world with great inventions. One such invention involves our dog door! Pet owners can now choose a dog door that is electronic!

Back in the day, a dog door was a simple flap. Often flimsy and thin, so the animal could pass through, it made keeping a home warm in the winter a tad harder. Or, it helped the air conditioning seep right out into the backyard. Kind of reminds you of that saying your mother used to use. "Were you born in a bam? Close the door!" But, through the passage of time and inventions, we have found that our dog door can be electronic. The process is simple.

For a dog door to work, all it needs is an electronic frequency that tells the door to open. Somewhat like the automatic doors at the local mall, electronic dog doors open for the animal. But, there's a difference. To help limit which animals can come into your home, an electric dog door requires a communication between the dog door and the dog, more precisely the dog's collar. When the animal gets close enough, it will open.

Adding a dog door to your home can seem like a difficult task. It doesn't have to be. It also doesn't have to be costly to your heating bills. By choosing an electric dog door you can allow your dog the freedom to enter and exit as it wishes and give yourself a sense of security as well. Deciding to purchase a dog door for your animal is ultimately the decision of the pet owner and homeowner, but what pooch wouldn't be happy with a dog door to call his own?

<a target="_new" href="http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net">http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net</a>

Byron Pappageorge

Finding A Reputable Dog Breeder

2009-01-05T01:10:00.001-08:00

Anyone can put two dogs together and let them breed, and in turn call themselves a "breeder." However being called a "reputable" breeder encompasses far more than that. You wont find a reputable breeder trying to sell their dogs to local pet stores, or advertising in the classified section. A good breeder does not need these "gimmicks." Instead, they rely on the quality of their dogs. Breeding is a practice that should be done with a sense of pride, and a feeling of fulfillment.

So once you have decided that a pure bred dog is right for you, how do you go about the overwhelming task of choosing the perfect breeder? Well ideally there are several key things to look for. Below is a simple check list to follow when looking for your breeder.

- Who is the breeder? It is very important to find out who the breeder is. One way to find out, is checking references. If the breeder is unable to provide written references, you should move on. Snoop around a bit. Talk to other breeders, rescue groups, veterinarians, anyone who can give you some information.

- Does the breeder require a Spay/neuter contract and limited registration? This means that you are legally obligated to promise that you will NOT attempt to breed your new dog. This helps stop poor quality breeding, and insure high standards of the breed.

- A reputable breeder should provide you with a "health check" which tests the lineage for known and testable genetic disorders. The breeder should be familiar with the health line of several generations. As a result, he/she should provide you with a health guarantee for a certain time period.

- A reputable breeder should encourage you to select a puppy with the temperament and personality that is compatible with you and your family. Do not let the breeder convince you that "this" one is for you. A good breeder will only produce litters AFTER they have buyers.

- The breeder should be honest about the dogs' characteristics. They should tell you both the good points and the bad points concerning a breed. Different breeds of dogs have unique characteristics that are traditional in their breed. So it is important you educate yourself.

- Check out the facilities. Make sure the breeder is keeping the dogs in a clean healthy environment. Ask to see where the dogs are kept. If the breeder insists on only bringing the dogs to you, stay clear!!

- Is your breeder involved in the breed? Most often you will find that a good breeder is involved in either, showing, performance, local clubs or rescue. An active breeder is a good sign that he/she truly cares about the breed

As you can see, choosing a good breeder should involve more than finding a number in the newspaper. Be sure to educate yourself before making any decisions. Prior to meeting with a prospective breeder write down some questions, know the breed, and be patient. Choosing the right breeder and pup is not something that you should rush. Remember being a responsible dog owner starts from the beginning.

For more great articles and tons of other great info visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.dogsforums.com/">Dog forum</a>, visit Ron's blog or visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.petsblogs.com">Pet blog</a>

Why Should I Adopt A Pet

2009-01-03T23:50:00.001-08:00

Over the past couple of years, animal rescues have been gaining popularity and support from all sorts of pet lovers. Basically what rescues do is take in animals and adopt them out to loving homes. Local animal shelters can only provide minimal support for pets needing homes. As a result euthanasia is a unfortunate reality of overpopulated shelters. With the over population of shelters such as the SPCA, rescue organizations are many pets only and last chance at a new beginning.

All volunteer based rescues such as Boxer Rescue Ontario even go as far as fostering, transporting and placing boxers in selected homes. Organizations like this run solely on the support of their communities, operating on donations and fund-raising. Without extremely dedicated and loving volunteers, rescues such as Boxer Rescue Ontario would never exist.

Most good rescue organizations place their pets in homes that will suit both the pet and his new family. Factors such as temperament, medical history and age are all taken into consideration when placing pets in their new homes. So too should the new home match the pet.

Even if you are not able to adopt a pet right now, you can still get involved in the rescue process. A large part of rescue programs involves fostering surrendered pets. Often rescue groups receive pets that require a great deal of care and rehabilitation before they can be released for adoption. Foster homes provide that safe transition before a pet can go to their forever home.

If having more pets in your home is nut not going to happen, you can still get involved in rescue by providing transportation between homes. Many large rescue organizations place pets in homes all across the country, which require one or several drivers to transport the pets.

So when you are ready for your next pet, wether it be a parrot or a pig, a fox or a ferret or a.... well you get the picture, consider finding a rescue organization and give a second chance to a deserving pet.